All Activity

To quote someone on dads army “ We are all doomed”.😂

We get our Audi parts from TPS which is vags official parts supplier. Dont know if they deal with the public. Just go into your dealers parts counter with that screen shot. Prices are unpredictable as some parts you think will be expensive ain’t and others thru the roof.

Onions

Looks lovely. Keep us posted on how you get on with the purchase

How long have you had it and did you buy it from a dealer? If bought from a dealer in the last 30 days it's their responsibility to repair it free of charge as you can return the car for a full refund In that time.

I'd bet money Audi will try and sell you a whole mirror. I'd recommend looking on eBay including international sellers

😁 This is getting quite amusing. (My repeat reply btw is a mistake due to a clumsy thumb.) Anyway I think an independent adjudicator would agree that although my reply may not be absolutely without criticism, I did clearly say I was using an ammeter. It was a multimeter as an ammeter. Connected through the battery earth to the body of car. And yes it did go down to actually below 0.1 amps after 10mins. Locked the car with multimeter connected as above and screen clearly showing in the boot. Did it more than once to check. Plus I did say my battery was good. Charged it up independent of the car and holds its charge above 12v if not connected back to the car. Plus I used a good battery from another car, which also drained to below 11.6 volts after 2-3 days or so. Plus my alternator charges 13.8 volts at the alternator and on the battery terminals when car is running. JTLYK ( just tae let ye ken) I do all my mechanical work, bodywork and electrical work on my own cars and my car never sees a garage apart from Mot time. Have done for 40 years. If I can’t resolve this one- which I’m not over anxious about tbh - I may call in an auto electrician with some more sophisticated gear, or who may have experience of likely causes and that will be a first for me - paying someone else to fix a problem on one of my cars. I’ve read everything I could get find on every forum and nothing definitive or obvious causing the problem- plus as I said the ammeter shoes there shouldn’t be a problem. Something is switching back on I think and drawing current. I’d need more sophisticated gear perhaps connected with a Bluetooth connection to my phone with software recording draw over 12 hours or so- something like that anyway.

Hi , first time posting on here, I bought an a3 1.4 Tfsi 2016 with 64,000 miles on the clock , it had a misfire so spark plugs and coil packs were changed . Had car back and was rough idling and had an intermittent flashing engine light would come on for around 10 seconds and then go off. Took it back and was told it was a carbon build up , they’ve cleaned the carbon build up and now it’s a lot smoother on idle and the car drives perfect without any misfires to my knowledge however my engine light just came back on and flashing for around 10 seconds again and went off. This has been a problem since getting the car however it only comes on every few days or couple of hours of driving time, can anyone help me out please as to why this is happening as it’s driving me mental .

I don't know, but this was an earlier thread on another Audi forum. https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-s8-d5-platform-discussion-221/belt-starter-generator-fixed-3069220/ Im like you - the 3.0 TDi has been great over the years - economical, quick, reliable usable. My A8 is brilliant, but it could be fallible. Waiting dealer...

I said the ammeter goes down to virtually zero drain in 10 mins! Not the battery drains in 10 mins. The battery goes down to about 11.6 volts if car is left for 2-3 days. It’s not completely consistent either. Sometimes after 2-3 days there’s 11.8 - 12v in battery. Been like this for about 6 months. It starts on 11.6 just if not too cold outside although leave it more days it goes lower and needs jumped. Anyway the point of the post is showing where the alarm siren was located which might help someone.

Item 3 will usually be a Audi supplied part only, many aftermarket mirrors come complete minus cap and glass, it would be worth popping the glass out and inspecting the main mirror body which part 3 fixes onto for any cracks as as we often find further damage from impacts like this

I believe Cliff could well be right.

I'd recommend watching YouTube buyers guides. We've sent issues with the A7 hybrid alternators, I appreciate this is a sq5 but it'll be similar technology:

The old interval was 5 years or 120k miles which ever comes first I believe. However Audi changed this to no time frame. I wouldn't risk it over 5 years with a belt in my opinion.

Hi I have problem with heating in my Audi c7 2.0Tdi Passenger side blow hot but driver side blow cold Heter matrix replaced and coolant and thermostat still the same cold please help maybe recommend garage in Cardiff Wales

Itl need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. The airbag warning light could just be due to a loose airbag wire under the passenger seat.

I have been a converted Audi owner for over 11yrs, so not sure why I haven’t joined the forum before now. For some back ground my Audi ownership history includes 1no A5 followed by 2no A7’s (not including 5 months owning a new Q8 EV on a company car scheme until a few months ago). Other than the Q8 EV all the others have been diesel. I have been looking at the Q5 sportback, with this decision influenced by the recent short period of having the Q8 and wanting to change the model of vehicle rather jumping back into another A7 which would be an easy choice. I have found an SQ5 registered Jan 2022 which I have agreed to purchase. My only slight concern is that it is a MHEV something I didn’t realise when I initially showed an interest in the vehicle, and not something that I was specifically looking for. Has anyone had any experience with the SQ5 MHEV diesel model? I am aware that many would question the real benefit of the MHEV technology, but I am more interested in any real negatives in owning one. Is it a model to avoid? Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks

Hi This is my first post and I have an A3 8P (2012) and both dipped lights don’t work, I have checked and replaced both bulbs but no joy, I can’t seem to find any ref to a fuse either. it was initially just the driver side but then 2 days later the other side went. Main, side lights, Fog lights etc all work fine. any help appreciated

I am yet another victim of this horrible electrical failure. My 19 plate A6 50TDi had 2 complete electrical failures around 12 months ago, exactly as documented previously in this thread. My car was with an independent Audi specialist with whom I have been a customer for many years. Under guidance from Audi Germany, they remade all the earthing point connections associated with the system and, for almost a year, I had no further issues. A few weeks ago the yellow warning light appeared again, however I switched off the car at the "Electrical Fault Contact Workshop" stage, left it for a while and allowed it to reset. It's been fine since although my Audi specialists ran a diagnostic test and found the alternator had put out 53V which apparently triggered the warning light. The alternator itself is apparently not in fault mode (yet) but like many others in this thread I have completely lost confidence in the car and the MHEV system in general. This is my 4th Audi with the 3.0TDi engine, which I think is fantastic and have clocked up some big mileages in the previous cars but I simply don't trust this one now. I don't want to have the alternator changed before it fails completely (and possibly claim on the 7 year warranty) unless I am 100% certain that a replacement will solve all the problems. So, to my question. Does anyone have any thoughts as to whether this whole issue has now been solved on more recent production cars, e.g. from 2023 onwards? Is it only related to an initial poor batch of alternators or is it likely an ongoing problem with even recent models with this MHEV system? I am likely going to change the car soon and naturally this will affect my choice of replacement. Any thoughts welcome. Thanks.

Without knowing exact engine code it’s hard to say if there correct. Many manufacturers claim long timing belt intervals when a model is new to market and then keep revising it down so your best to check the latest guidance Audi are saying for each car

Hi, please can you let me know the best and most cost value place to take my Audi A3 2012 model for a MOT and service in South Wales, the engine light and safety belt/air bag warning light is on, some labour cost may be involved. All advice and previouse good/bad experience welcome, thanks

Audi seem to have changed its recommendations on this matter several times over recent years. Personally I would prefer to change the belt and water pump at about half that distance. It is an expensive job (about £700,) but nowhere near as expensive as the consequences of a belt failure i.e. engine destruction costing at least £4000 for a replacement.

I believe there is a motorised flap for each vent so I guess that one is defective. Wait for others to confirm my opinion before doing anything.

I was not asking about voltage, though your voltage readings suggest the battery is defective, I was asking about current, i.e. the number of amps draining out of the battery. For that you need an ammeter not a voltmeter, though most people use a multimeter which can measure both properties amongst others. FYI The current in amps is a measure of how much power is being drawn from the battery. The normal drain is less than 0.1 amps, which is the backgound consumption for things like the alarm system and the door lock receiver.