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Right I've been researching the parts from the pics. The one below is a brake vacuum pump. Part number 03g145209c. That's probably whats wrong with the brakes. The part below is the balance shaft oil pump with part number 03g103537b. If there's a problem with the oil pump then this could damage the engine if ran. The part below is the brake fluid reservoir and is where you would top up the brake fluid. The part below is the battery control module. Part number 4f0915181a. Theres a fuse that controls the interior lights and rear window heater and this module. So if the interior lights and rear heated window isn't working then it's worth looking at fuses. I'm.nit sure which fuse it is though. This part trickles charges out to all the various components when the car is not running. It's situated in the boot bolted to the "bumper" area. All the images I can't see the part numbers. So if you take pics of the parts showing the numbers then I can help further.

I have but got lost as not 100% I'm looking at right parts for my car. For example I've seen susoension kits talk about fitting 2 different top mounts for same car. Suspension is tired, so il thinking at the least new springs shocks top mounts on front and maybe a set of bushings all round. Car rides bumpy lop Thanks for your response mate.

Hi all, I’ve just bought a B9 2020 Audi A4 S Line 40 TFSI MHEV S Tronic with 32,000 miles on the clock and got myself set up on the MyAudi app. I have also purchased the Audi Connect Remote & Control from the Functions Store. However, I can’t seem to use the features, mainly the option to heat up the car before I even get in. Is there something I’m missing or doing wrong? My door handle sensors also don’t seem to be working, I’m having to lock and unlock the car via the key fob. I’ve gone through settings but nothing clear on there and the sensor just doesn’t seem to work. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also, any other tips and tricks I should know and recommendations for extra security? Many Thanks

Thanks for info we have noted different ranges

Electric? Clutching my pearls 😱.

Ok, so there's no way to do an actual leak down test? I want to monitor fuel pressure after the engine is shut down. This is to see if the fuel is bleeding back into the tank and causing the hard start/long crank time issue.

Thanks Stevey. When I first got the car it would do a cold start all the time. That’s why I’m enquiring about why it isn’t doing them anymore

Steve. If all else fails you could try buying plain straight or bent silicone hose from Ebay and cutting it to length yourself. That would only work if you can measure the ID of the original accurately and there are no branches in it. You would need to fit hose clamps as well. The first supplier I found was https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385050052731?_skw=silicone+hose&itmmeta=01JDAJSV0WC50JQXCWWD296ZWV&hash=item59a6c5887b%3Ag%3A6OsAAOSwud1i8N48&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKn1r65jsH3Mn1dUx0VBIpCyHyEmxepNCORmL0DfrunmF6aXGcDWcDI6MnEq%2BDFHO8HeNbCU1LWK5KQHw29w4Rlnm0ErfJtAmjflVMmuUi%2B1F0oWs1FgWRfCKMNDZS%2BNeiKeMuujg1pmewiw3sXueG1nnfQsplHY9kUR%2FqeuwkL7IY50ZyZ30nMoMqQruNQfUKHPG06ybkQkUvoPlAeg8cuGwp271dfhA5TkPEYxoXbKqQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUMSw59LqZA&var=652930845042

Hi excellent tutorial, well done. Steve

Ok so the codes were mainly level codes which I expected but there was two an overheating code and a code for a leak on or near the acumilater? Dan

Welcome Leighton from the Homeland, I think Cliff has a fair point, otherwise it would be difficult to justify why you would want it to be connected while in their workshop - unless you don’t trust them. If that is the case, then you would be better off searching for an alternative trusted garage - such as an independent. I think many people would need some convincing about the benefit of having a 6 year old car serviced at a main dealer, unless you have some out of manufacturer’ warranty that ties you into doing that. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Gerry, and thanks for joining. We take it you are not investing in a genuine Audi one then! You may find your number against the VIN on LLL Parts website. Of course, Audi and TPS would have the answer but… What is wrong with yours Gerry that leads you to need a ‘Made in China’ new one? Why not get yours repaired at a localish specialist? Where did you intend to get your replacement from? Kind regards, Gareth.

Are they sure it’s the booster? Not heard of the booster itself going bad. Have you had the sensor changed? If not, try it yourself. It’s really simple if you can diy a bit. The sensors are about £20ish when I last checked. Am replacing mine again soon…it’s part of my yearly routine!!

Thanks for sharing your thoughts it is much appreciated, I know this wasn’t going to be A easy process. I have now contacted Audi head office and have raised my issues and concerns with them (Fingers crossed] but not expecting anything. I have a friend, who also is giving me some legal advice who is a Solicitor about what the best route is and what are my best outcomes.

Welcome Scott and thanks for joining, Is it the propshaft joint which is showing wear? If so, try Parts in Motion at Exeter. You are likely to get a good branded joint there, such as Febi. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Car going in today, typically during the cold weather recently the noise has disappeared, would be typical if they can't reproduce the noise...

Kev, if you are giving him a good home, that is the price.

Thanks

Blinking heck Tracy. Might be worth trying your local dealer, with apologies for not using them. Kind regards, Gareth.

I have no idea.

yep mine are all greyed out on my mmi. strange set up, but working

Buy yourself a multi meter Graeme- not expensive.

Hello David, Please include more information, photos and price and post in the Sales and Wants section. Kind regards, Gareth.

Very good Mark2. if I can at all help or add any weight, just let me know what you think I can do. I said I wouldn’t post again, but they’ve now compounded the issue by being Judge and Jury on my case with them. They’ve invited me over to take it further with the ombudsman. Ok, I will! they are wrong, so I will win, if it’s a proper process. “If you remain unhappy, I can advise you of the services provided by The Motor Ombudsman, a CTSI-certified Alternative Dispute Resolution provider that we are prepared to engage with through the ADR procedure. Please find their contact details below: The Motor Ombudsman 71 Great Peter Street London SW1P 2BN Tel: 0345 241 3008 www.themotorombudsman.org”

Hello everyone, Looking for help if someone had an issue like this: I only get cold air to the rear passenger vents and footwell on my 3-way climate control. I get warm air to the front vents and windshield at ~22 Celsius when it is set to high. However when I only set the blower to blow to the footwell area then I don't get warm air ~19 Celsius no warm air to the back at all. Has anyone had a similar problem and got it fixed? Garge checked the flaps were opening correctly and said they would need to look at the heater box as the problem seemed to be there, but it's a huge job with around 24 hours of labor and they couldn`t guarantee it would be fixed. I am thinking of trying to change the heater core matrix and flushing coolant. Thank you and appreciate your help!