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Common Good practice is to carry out a pre repair diagnostic health check to A protect the garage from pre existing faults and B to give the customer pre warning to faults that they may not be aware of, I can see this from both sides that to put your car in for a new DMF shouldn’t result in a undrivable car being returned but also changing a DMF while a time consuming job is relatively straight forward. Are the Audi dealership that replaced you DMF saying that the previous Audi garage have a record of another fault saved against your car, if so request proof of this as it’s your vehicle should be accessible to yourself upon request

Hello all, have any of you upgraded your air filter or even fitted a different air intake system. If so, what was it? Price ? Were there any differences in noise? Look forward to your replies Mark

I’ve just bought one of these brand new from a company called Germanmodsuk. £205 brand new.

Following this as i am interested in fitting one myself. No phone or bluetooth in the car is annoying.

My car won’t start put my little tester on and this is what it said I haven’t a clue it’s Christmas Eve Eve and I need my car so no garages open any help or advice would be really appreciated thanks

If only it was that easy, not listed.

Keep us posted on how you get on

Have you looked at eBay or AliExpress for the mudflaps? Regarding the bulbs make sure they're the type that won't throw up a bulb out message.

Keep us posted on how you get on

Well I thought while I'm at it I kight aswell do a service especially as she has just hit 260,000 miles 😅

New topic please. I am locking this one.

So pin 1 is a earth and pins 2 and 3 are live feeds for the bulbs and missing pin 4 is redundant on this model of car, have you check that your getting a feed to each bulb and a continuity check from the earth track to a ground on vehicle chassis

Never a bad idea to get a scan, pdc sensors usually throw one of 3 faults, short to ground, circuit open or no communication. Any one of these in a single sensor will stop the system working and so you would get a warning message on the mmi when system activates. I would be looking for a missing message issue between 2 modules relating to the pdc and gear selection/speed as if there working but not how you think they should

Yellow warning is normal and goes away once you drive over a certain speed unless you obviously have a fault, deal with these cameras a lot when replacing windscreens and calibrating them, this sounds to me like a hardware failure within the camera itself unless you’ve had a new screen and the camera isn’t installed correctly

I’ve heard of several company’s in Europe offering a service to open and change LED’s but never used any, can’t imagine it would be cheap either. unfortunately we just change the headlamp as no real alternative,

Had to fix problems like this before and feel for you, the headlamps on these are quite basic compared to newer generations, you best bet is to buy yourself a power probe, works like a voltmeter but indicates if you have probed a live or earth and what voltage, can check continuity and best of all supply a live or earth feed at touch of a button. take time and probe each wire on the car plug switching headlamps on and off to identify each wires function, typically only 1 earth for complete light, larger lives will be main and dipped lives, indicator live is easy as voltage switches quickly, drl is always live but voltage will drop when indicator is on or dipped beam. headlamp leveling is abit of a pain as looking for change in voltage when car starts as should do a level test but leave that to last and hopefully will only have 2 wires. Responding to old post but hopefully help someone

Central locking solenoid is built into the lock mechanism and is a common failing , if it’s not totally failed you might hear a slight rumbling from it but won’t have the power to engage the lock.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Sounds like an interesting start to your Audi Germany. Hopefully you'll love your q8 when it arrives 🙂

The fact they admitted the pads were glazed probly without thinking about what they were saying points towards the calipers not backing of correctly after application, unless your driving with your handbrake on which obviously your not if you were to glaze your rear brakes your front would be even worse, typically it’s 70% braking force on front and 30% on back

Modern alternators don’t supply maximum charge at all times, they supply enough charge when needed to keep the battery maintained between a set range range, typically when engine braking the alternator produces maximum output and when accelerating produces little unless the battery requires it, this is to improve mpg as a alternator producing charge also produces drag, common battery failings are a broken cell, typical symptom is the battery will take a charge fine but will lose it very quickly over 24/48 hrs and this time of year is common for this fault

Well done.

Me and my Audi clutch are not friends, back story is the clutch friction plate exploded taking out several hydraulic lines, new clutch/ pressure plate, concentric cyclinder and new hydraulic pipe fitted, gearbox removed again for seal to be fitted into concentric slave cyclinder that Audi don’t fit into replacement part and took 3 days to even find in there system, all good for a few months then master cyclinder failed, 14 months later clutch delay valve leaking and master cyclinder won’t bleed due to check valve fault which is a design fault in these master cyclinders, I’m looking for info on the cable that bypasses the clutch delay valve a few members have fitted or even better a braided line from master to slave cyclinder

Vw golf mk7 /7.5 suffer with blocked heater cores and it’s caused by a additive bag that be built into the coolant reservoir bottle that bursts and clogs the heater matrix, common fix was to disconnect the 2 coolant pipes that go thru the bulk head and use a power wash in one hose to push the blockage back out the other pipe, takes abit of time but easier and cheaper then replacing the matrix radiator, hope this maybe of help

Il shed my insight on these sensors as I deal with vehicle electronics a lot. The sensor on the servo is more of a safety device that has been used for years and often puts faults in stop/start systems and cruise controls systems, the restricted brake performance is the vehicles ecu reducing the limits of the abs pump/ module. It is worth buying a new sensor from the likes of eBay and fitting yourself. No coding required and system will reset after a certain amount of driving, sensor replacement will not involve any fluid loss so is a DIY job

The chap that valets my A4 convertible recommends Gtechniq convertible roof cleaner. This is a two-step process - a cleaner and then a sealant. He treated my car's top with it a couple of years ago, and it came up like new and really repels water. I'll try to put a couple of videos showing the water repellence... OK - I give up - trying to embed a video here is clearly beyond me...🤦‍♂️