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This could be an issue with the gear linkages or clutch. Is it smooth to engage the clutch? Is there any clutch slip etc?

I should also add two things: 1. If you were to convert it to petrol engine then you'd probably find it easier to get it ulez compliant. You'll definitely need a complete donor car for this. 2. UK MOT rules changed regarding emissions in 2002. Up to 2002 (02 registered) car emissions were based of the engine and when it was manufactured. So for example, if you fitted a 1970s rover V8 to your 2001 Audi it would only have to meet the 1970s emissions regulations. Cars registered from September 2002 (52 registered onwards) had to meet the emissions of the car as it was made that year. So you couldn't fit a river V8 engine to post 52 registered cars as emissions would be higher than the original engine when new if that makes sense.

This may be the one you need? FRONT LEFT DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR MECHANISM FOR AUDI A3 8P, A6 C6, A8 4E 8E2837015AA | eBay

Help…. My 2012 Audi A3 manual. Struggling to change gear, especially putting in first gear, very stiff and have to force gearstick in to 1st. When I push clutch down, car starts vibrating a bit and even when clutch floored it still creeps the car forward. Any ideas what it is please?

You're welcome 🙂

Thanks for your reply daveyboy. One of the locks I bought already was from Amazon but not that particular supplier. It's plasticy and probably also a cheap import but, like many people, I chose Amazon because it's so easy to return things that don't work. The other was from a far more serious setup in Germany and it did look a far better lock but it simply didn't fit so it, too, goes back. The basic problem about wires and voltages still exists, however. I have spent hours with YouTube and other sites trying to get this simple info but have drawn a complete blank. This is my first exposure to Audi and I must say I'm astonished at how hard it is to get decent info off the web. This negative attitude might carry through to dealers as well: I asked a local Audi specialist garage for help on where I could reliably source a lock that worked but he was very cagey and would only offer me a garage booking. He says you need the chassis number (which I have of course) but wouldn't offer any suggestions about retail sources. I had VWs (many) years ago and found them very easy to work on and get bits for but I'm taken aback by this experience with Audi. It's a complete contrast to my recent experience getting help and info about my son's Honda CBR600 F3. I had really detailed requirements about carb settings, jets and so on and the Honda Forum was incredibly helpful, as was a local motorbike specialist who cleaned them and set them up for me.

I did not know of these kits either, but from what I remember of having my car done by a professional one needs suitable pressure guages to ensure only the correct amount of gas is introduced. Furthermore I believe it is now compulsory to to collect and recycle old hydroflurocarbon refridgerant gas because of the damage done by it to the ozone layer of the atmosphere.

the same sensor twice.

I didn't know until earlier that kits were available to recharge/regas your car's air conditioning at home. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with these kits and if they would recommend them?

I have an Audi A4 2.0 tdi technik. A short while ago it came up with P04010 EGR insufficient flow detected error. We have cleaned the pipe from the block to inlet manifold (dirty but not blocked) and replaced the whole EGR/cooler unit (EGR valve, vacuum actuator and sensor all come as one unit) - the old cooler was blocked solid so the error code made sense. we cleared the error code after replacing the unit but it keeps returning. Sometimes, but not always, it triggers the engine management light. any ideas please?

Thanks for the reply Gareth. I can see and feel the bottle (and the big crack in it lol). But I have no idea how to change it!

You would think Audi have eliminated this as a possible cause on your vehicle to be honest. When you say they have changed it twice - do you mean the same sensor twice or BOTH the sensors, just to be clear there are 2

Welcome Jim, It’s usually behind the plastic wheel arch liner on the side where you see the filler. Kind regards, Gareth.

I've replaced one lock actuator on my '03 A6 and have another one to replace. I got them on Amazon from a company called Frankberg for about £25 each, made in China but the quality seems fine and the one I've fitted is working perfectly. They're available on ebay too for similar money, I only used Amazon because the delivery was quicker and I was in a rush. Just enter your car details and you should get the right part, and the fact you now know what you're looking for in terms of connector type should make things easier. Hope this helps mate.

Hi, I have a Audi A3 S Line TDI 2011.... Does anyone please have a link to a video showing how to change the wiper bottle? Mine is cracked and wont hold water. Thank you in advance.

Thanks Steve in the boot near side.

This would be a good first step, it would at least let you know if you're heading in the right direction or just chasing shadows. Parasitic drains can be really hard to trace but I've read a couple of good guides that helped me in the past, if I can find them again I'll post the links here, good luck.

What are your current thoughts Monika?

Saw this too: https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1199225638538729

Yeah they have changed it twice, but think the car needs a good drive so the adblue system gets used and resets

Steve, thanks very much for that. Yes, that'll be our next step. It's a nuisance, though, cos we're so remote, but I'm going to have to do that, I guess. Thanks again. I'm no expert, though I can use a multi-meter and not too bad at figuring stuff out. But I think I've gone as far as I can. Thanks again.

Rybrook, thanks very much for that info. Actually, though, the car is sitting unlocked and no one entering it and nothing switched on. Battery still draining. This morning, w battery fully charged and reconnected, and at about 12.7V, that fuse is still showing current. Now, I've taken out the fuse and I'm going to check through the day to see whether the battery remains fully charged. Before disconnecting, I did enter the car and started it. When running, it's now showing a wee steering wheel symbol; the handbook says that's power steering, but the listing of fuses says clearly that F6 (5A fuse) is Instrument Cluster. I suspect that the power steering bulb being on may be an artifact of a failure in the instrument cluster module. Do you think that might be the case?

Thanks guys

Audi just called, battery not charging past 70% then draining after starting the car once. It also has a non genuine windscreen on it so the camera for lane assist pre sense etc can’t function properly because the tint is different. Hopefully these two things sort all the issues 🙏🏼

To change an engine on an Audi with all the electronics and imobiliser stuff is a nightmare. You'd be far better off changing the car. If the car is sentimental and you're adamant to do it then the best option would be to buy another A3 that is ULEZ compliant and changing everything over including engine, gearbox, ECU, full wiring loom, instrument cluster, high pressure fuel pump etc.