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For sale - 121k miles. Great clean example of a S3 AMK engine Audi S3 Quattro. 3200£

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001100606264.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.166.70b41802tnE6Oh I had this one in my Q5 for about 7 months and it worked brilliantly for Android Auto. I was even able to add a front and rear camera to it.

Hi there I have one of these for sale ,took it out of my Audi when I sold the car it the the BV auto one ,it is a good bit of kit but no use in my new Avant

Hello everyone, looking for help here, would appreciate it. Started hearing humming and grinding sound coming from the front of my Audi A6 C7 two weeks ago. Never had any problems with the car, clean maintenance done always on time, oil change, filters ect. After switching from my 18” winter wheels to my 20” rotors summer I started to hear this sound (will attach a video down if its possible) but not right away, 3 days after the wheel change. Brought the car back to the mechanic, they tried to see if its a wheel bearing problem but after rotating it, looking at it couldnt find anything, they said its good to drive but I feel it isnt , it sounds worse now then 14 days ago. The noise increases either speed, when you slow down from for example 90kmh down it makes like a jet noise haha helicopter noise I dont even know. Also you can feel a little vibration in the steering wheel and also in the gas pedal (automatic gearbox to mention), steering wheel is a little so to say soft when you go right but when you rotate left its more rought. any help would be appreciated, thank you! IMG_1851.mov

Hello, i have a similar issue wherein the car will lower itself at the back after around 45 minutes of driving. Whilst not driving, the issue is fairly sporadic in that it could sit at its regular height for up to a week at a time and other times it will be slammed to the ground 10 minutes after I turn the car off. Issue is at both left and right of car. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Afternoon all! This is my first post on this forum; nice to meet you all. Had lots of Audis in the past, but never a Cabriolet. Picking it up on Saturday. I do know that it needs a new plastic window in the rear of the soft top. I understand that usually the new screens are hand stitched in for about £300 at soft top specialists. However, I was wondering if anyone on the Forum had used Cristal Cabriolet. Their product makes use of the zip as per the stitched in ones but then has a 3m adhesive seal that you affix to the soft top fabric rather than stitching. I thought I might try this and then if the adhesive is insufficient stitch it myself using something like a Speedy Stitcher Awl. What are everyone’s thoughts on that? Cheers, Chris

Heather. There are a few companies who can repair your instrument cluster, ECU Testing being commonly mentioned here. They all require you to remove the cluster and post it to them. I forget the most recent price, but I know it was only a few hundred pounds, a fraction of the price of a new part from Audi.

Thanks very much for this response (just saw it now). Well...I've found that the battery isn't draining when it's connected to the car, and the instrument cluster fuse is removed, but drains rapidly when I reinsert the fuse. So that seems to confirm that it's that fuse, and presumably hence a fault in the instrument cluster. So my next step has to be to find a mechanic/electrical specialist to take it further. Many thanks to all for your advice.

Thanks all had a Couple of A6,s before and a Q5 really enjoyed them went away from brand but back now looking forward to collection.

Since getting the car in February, I've had a battery drain. I hooked up 2 batteries but still no joy. So, I noticed my mmi screen stays up and checking with vcds, there is a report of no control head adaptation. Thinking it was those gears, I removed the trim to find there is no housing at all for the mmi, it's been removed and the screen is somehow stuck in place. Had the battery checked, it's OK and the alternator is charging. Would a non closing mmi screen cause battery drain? Does it have to close to turn off the feature? If so, how does one go about having a different screen from a newer system installed? I'm just looking at getting a used mechanism to fix this or get one of those modern interfaces with a new screen. Thanks

Hello Steve, nice to meet "online" the man ho helped me indirectly to take a decision ( thanks to your guides in this lovely forum). If I can sell my Disco Sport during next week, I'll collect that A6 as soon as I can: the owner wrote me this morning, telling me that he wants to offer me for free an oil and filters change before collecting directly in Audi Service. The car, as far as I know, was kept always in a garage ( in fact, the car hasn't any body flaws or dents). I'll check as soon as I can the "battery drain" problem, as mentioned on one of your threads but i was in the passenger seat and the carpets doesn't seems to be humid or full with water. Again, if I can achieve to collect the A6, my next steps will be: Oil and filter trans change (ZF OEM parts) Distribution belts and water pump (Bosch or Continental parts) Full fluid change ( brakes, steering, cooling) Glowplugs (Bosch) Tyres (actually it has some good old Toyo Proxxes, but DOT 2019 and incorrect size, 215/55/17)

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Check for wet carpets in front footwells which is often due to a broken pollen filter housing or blocked battery tray drains. This water can damage the CCM which is under the passenger footwells carpet. The CCM controls a lot of electrical functions so make sure all electrical items work. Looks stunning to be fair. Service history is key for the 2.5tdi. People say they're unreliable but this is often because people have failed to keep up on regular maintenance. My A6 2.5tdi had done 344k miles before engine expired. Regarding the gearbox, make sure it's been serviced and gear changes are smooth. Regarding the ingenium engine my wife has a Jag xe with this engine so fully aware of the issues.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Check for wet carpets in front footwells which is often due to a broken pollen filter housing or blocked battery tray drains. This water can damage the CCM which is under the passenger footwells carpet. The CCM controls a lot of electrical functions so make sure all electrical items work.

Hi all bought a A6 tdi black line off norwich audi yesterday picking up on Tuesday looking forward to chats and information thanks.

Hello! First of all, I'm so sorry for my bad English: as an Italian, English isn't my fist language, but I'll try my best to be understandable. I'm a 33yo italian car enthusiast that especially bought english cars ( I still have as a "relax driver" a Daimler Six LWB from 1995). I also still have a LR Discovery Sport 2.0 Ingenium that is a nightmare (please, pretty please, avoid this engines like hell!!). Bought it used in 2021 with 68k Km on it and right now has 168k Km with over 15k Euros of extraordinary maintenance on it. Two weeks ago, while searching for new windows as I'm renovating my house, I stumbled across a 2005 C5 Avant AKE Tiptronic in marvellous shape. The car owner is the shop's owner aswell. He talked to me a lot about the car. One owner from new, it has 210.000Km made in roughly 20 years and only serviced in Audi. The car, in fact, was full of Audi invoices regarding some regular maintenance (engine oil, filters and so on) and some extraordinary maintenance ( distribution made at 168.000km in 2016 or 18 I don't remember, a new torque converter in 2018 at 189.000Km, tank diesel pump and so on). Actually that C5 is not used since 2022 because the owner bought a new Volvo XC60 and he wants get rid of it for 2750 Euros. The car drives smoothly with no esitations... Could it be safe to say that could it be a good car to make 25.000Km/year doing, of course, an oil change every 10.000Km and checking all the components when needed? Thanks in advance, I'll leave some photos of the car here! Cheers Federico

Hello there! I'm Federico, 33, from Italy! I'm in search of a "new" adventure buying an A6 C5 Avant. Thanks for help in advance!

Thanks a lot for your reply, I do have a certificate of specification I don't know if that is good enough though, with regards to Audi UK, they said it has nothing to do with them, while Audi singapore said the certificate of specification is All they have, Am yet to get the car though but someone said they got certificate of conformity in the hand book which will help me a lot,I just hope it inside the handbook when I get it on Monday or Tuesday. Thanks for your concern, any help will be hugely appreciated at this point.

You can't beat a squirt or two of WD40 mate, well done!

Thank you for your help, Daveyboy. I've taken careful note of those sources for locks that you gave me but I THINK I've solved it without a new lock! I noticed yesterday that the lock was ticking when both the 'lock' and 'unlock' were pressed on the fob so this made me think (hope) that it was a mechanical problem rather than an electrical one. So I cleaned the mechanisms all out with one of those modern degreasers - actually WD40 degreaser. I put it all back together this morning after re-oiling and it works. My 79 year old eyesight and fingers aren't ideal for this sort of thing but I managed to re-connect the door handle operating rod in the correct place after a couple of false starts. I'll keep my fingers crossed. There are eight pins in the socket but only six in the plug but I'd still dearly like to know why six wires are needed for a simple open/close mechanism! I believe there are two, maybe three micro-switches in the electrics and the usual problem is that the connections to one or more of these become 'dry' or a little cracked. Very often simply resoldering the connections works apparently. They are simply (and cheaply) soldered in to the board and it's easy to imagine that they flex a little every time the switch is operated and eventually something gives. The micro-switches are, I believe, something to do with sending signals back to ECU about the status of the door: locked/ unlocked/ shut/ open etc. Thanks again.

Wondered if you have a budget limit on this Monika?

A further update, we have checked right into the inlet manifold where the egr feeds back in and also the tube where it passes through the back of the block are completely clear. we tried fitting the electric unit with the position sensor off the old one (that was working but the body was blocked) but that caused a constant hunting and a P0403 fault immediately so has been taken back off. The EGR flow is varying with throttle as you drive along as you would expect. at idle it is around 22kg/hr, it goes into the 60-70’s as you accelerate. Taking your foot off the throttle quite quickly seems to be what triggers it, the flow drops momentarily to 0.2-0.3 kg/hr.

Sadly no. And despite poking around the edges I can't see how the immovable back rest is attached. It must be removable somehow but I don't want to risk ripping it.

By the way, regarding repair costs the clutch was replaced on my A6 four years ago before I bought the car. The clutch kit was just shy of £600, and 5 hours of labour. Hope that helps mate.