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Looking for a little advice with my coolant. I've got a 63 plate audi A3 and the coolant low warning has come up on my dash, I've checked the coolant and it was in the middle of the max and min line, however, when I've opened the tank up its hissed and starts to bubble, rising the coolant up and overflowing it stops after a minute or so. The temperature gauge gradually increases and stops around 90 degrees. I could top up the coolant and the warning would go, but then appear again after the car warmed up. I've checked with the test kits to check if it's a blown gasket, that came back fine, normal black oil for a diesel engine. After more research online, I was told to check the temperature of the fans when the heating is on, no hot air was coming through, they suggested the heater matrix. So this has been replaced and the coolant system flushed. The warning dissappear for around 3 days, then comes back on. Opening the coolant tank it still hisses the coolant rises back to where it was 3 days ago. I've read online it could be the coolant temperature sensor, ive ordered one online and for the life of me I am unable to locate where it is in my engine bay. Online says its on the passenger side on the return pipe of the radiator, but I can't seem to find it. Could anyone point me in the right direction or a photo of where it is so I can change it and go from there. Cheers Connor

Hi, I would be taking it back to the dealer asap.

Should I expect the MMI to show oil level as full after an service?

Recently purchased a new q2 s line and the boot is filling up with water and it appears to be coming from c pillar trim. Can anybody enlighten what the problem is.

Many thanks for updating us and I too am please on the under-warranty replacement has worked out well for you. Re. the Q8:- what is your washing regime with the vehicle? Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Frank, Your best option is to search EBay. Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi all, i do a lot of motorway mileage in my A6 and covered combined between current and previous A6 around 50k miles. one thing that screams out to me is how unlucky I am with stones and debris hitting the windscreen. My previous A6 C8 I had a new windscreen due to a chip manifesting into a crack on impact and the screen being replaced. My current has had 2 chips one repaired but seems to be cracking and the 2nd chip centrally in the screen crack on impact. Is it the angle of the windscreen prone to slight impact damage or is it the way in which they are made they just seem to have barely any resilience to impact damage. for comparison my 20212 VW Passat had well over a 100k miles and never had to replace the windscreen for cracks and I had probably around 4 stones lobbed that left damaged (the sound was like being shot at) and 3 that skimmed and left only a small dent in the glass. I've drawn conclusions that its either; - design (elevation of glass) - product quality (poor lamination?) - bad luck? For sanity reasons I’m just curious what others have experienced in all my cars I’ve owned I’ve only ever had to replace 5 windscreens and 2 of those are for this model of vehicle.

wanted audi a1 space saver wheel either 16 or 17 inch must have p c d of 5x100 thanks

Hi Nigel. Great news! They changed it under warranty. I have the same issue with my Q8 2018, but it's all the rear lights, and in some cases, with very heavy delamination of the internal lenses. Audio UK states all these rear units are air-tight and water-tight sealed; it seems they are in denial that they have a manufacturing defect issue. There are now so many issues being reported globally regarding the delamination of the internal light lens of the rear lighting units on different forums. This is the response I received from Audi UK. I hope your warranty doesn't expire should you experience this issue again!

Thank you for your replies and suggestions. In the end a lot more persistence and a different flexible wire has sorted out the issue.

Welcome Edward, but what do you want the forum to do? Regards, Gareth.

Avoid the roof lining. Having had the roof lining down on my old B8 A4, I know my way around. The interior as Matt mentions is easily marked. You need a special tool for the interior grab handles, assuming you don’t break the clips or they ping off. If you do go down this route, disconnect battery at least 30 mins before attempting. There’s airbags behind A pillar and curtain airbags. The B Pillar trim is straight forward, but it’s things like rubber door seals.

Just dived in and px’d my lovely A6 S-Line Avant for a low mileage 2016 Diesel Q7, 100 mile drive home, it is impressive! I’ve got a question that I will keep for a new post! Many thanks, Dave

Aircon gas needs replaced/recycled every couple of years to work at its best. Over time the amount in the system reduces and loses its efficiency as it absorbs moisture. I’ve found The newer 1234yf gas used doesn’t supply the same chilling effect in cars as the older r134a but is used because a change in law as its a lot more environmentally friendly.

Thanks for the additional info on roof route from both of you. I was hoping to keep the wiring as near original as possible so the floor route was my aim. Had forgotten the curtain airbag!!

So my car has suffered the same fate, servo sensor from Amazon for £13, looked 100% identical to the removed one, same plastics and markings except the Audi logo had been scratched off which is quite common on aftermarket parts if there made by the same supplier Audi use. Bargain

Your best to pop into a local motor factors. They don’t usually have websites that are much help as deal with trade customers over the phone mainly. I got my LUK clutch kit from Dingbro but I’m based in Scotland and mine is a diesel B9. Clutch kit for mine consisted of pressure plate, clutch plate and slave cyclinder. My dual mass fly wheel was fine and that’s after 120k. Dual mass fly wheels on these cars are off a new design so they rattle when rotated or shaken as is perfectly normal.

I need a replacement boot lid for my A2 2005 aluminium body Edward

Thank you. I am going to keep an eye on it and discuss it with Audi at the first service. With the drips being equal and on both sides I am guessing that it is rainwater rather than something internal. I appreciate you taking the time for considered thought

I would not know if it is a recognised problem, but I would be concerned about it in your place. If the water is not coming off the road surface it must be leaking from the car. Perhaps somebody more knowledgeable will chip in.

Thanks for your reply. The roads have been dry, today and yesterday. As it turned out, only a limited amount of water came out of the sills, less than 25ml, the Golf would hold close to a litre and be draining for an hour or two and you could hear it sloshing around. If it is not a known problem then I am happy to ignore it.

Il post a picture to help explain what I mean about the airbag part that you shouldn’t have anything in, all wires should go above the Jesus handle fixings and secure to either the bodywork or be above the roof lining about 6inchs inwards like other manufactures do

To lower the roof cloth enough to install the wiring further enough inwards as not to interfere with the curtain airbag clearance section of the roof cloth you would still need to remove B pillar trims, Jesus handles and sun visors, personally I would always rather work along the floor trims then roof trims. If you do go down the roof cloth route be very careful when applying pressure as it’s only thin cardboard with a sponge fabric glued onto it and it kinks very easily and can remain visible afterwards

Not while I had the car. I may well be wrong, but I seem to remember the guy telling me that the cabling was already in the roof as it was part of the loom for the rear of the car. The installation at home only took about 1.5 hours so that well may have been the case. Tony

Had you been driving on a wet road just prior to parking?