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Nevertheless the clutch is not opening fully. It could be a broken release bearing, a damaged release lever, a defective slave cylinder, a worn driven plate, a damaged finger, or a worn flywheel. Whatever the cause, the clutch needs to come out.

Sorry, forgot to mention, no clutch slip either

Thanks - When the engine is turned off it is very easy to put in gear, no struggle at all. When engine on is when I have to fight to put in gear. It’s mainly just the lower gears (1 and 2). Pushing the clutch down just seems the same, except that when pushed right down the car starts vibrating a bit. Some times at traffic lights I have to turn engine off, put into 1st gear (easily) then turn the engine back on to be able to drive off. Spoke to my local garage and he said seems to be no issue with flywheel and nay just be crap built up and stuck behind clutch. Could this be true? He said it may fix itself in time and clear up, but just seems to be getting worse.

The head unit in my 2011 8p isn't turning on at all? Checked all fuses including one behind the head unit itself and all seems OK. Anybody have any ideas what could be wrong? Also if I need a used head unit does it have to be compatible for my bose speakers

Have you come to a decision Monika? We have offered our thoughts on the matter, how about giving us yours?

New clutch needed.

Any decision Peter?

Hi guys, had my engine remapped, dpf egr removed but clutch was old to start with and now is slipping alot. The guy did say it wouldn't last dentist increased bhp 220ish. So il need to replace clutch now. Any suggestions for a more sporty heavier duty clutch flywheel system? Preferably one that isn't like a million quid lol

That looks identical! Thank you. I've sent the seller the Reg and VIN number to check. It's much cheaper than the German one (that didn't fit) too!

Yes exactly I had the same ad blue issue coming up and done remapping and turned this off no more issues

Thank you

Also Andrew while you have the old lock out of your car have a look at the connector and count how many pins there are as this will help when ordering a replacement (some sites refer to them as poles).

Hi Clifford, yes, I totally support what you're saying about environmental issues regarding releasing refrigerant into the atmosphere and wouldn't contemplate it if that was involved. It seems these kits only replace the gas lost over time through evaporation rather than purging the system of old gas. Also the kit comes with pipework, connectors, and a gauge to ensure the correct pressure is reached (I'll add a pic as an example). That said though I have the same sort of concerns as you, and also whether these kits are actually effective or just a waste of money as I don't always trust the reviews on seller's pages to be 100% genuine so I was wondering if any other members had tried one before.

This could be an issue with the gear linkages or clutch. Is it smooth to engage the clutch? Is there any clutch slip etc?

I should also add two things: 1. If you were to convert it to petrol engine then you'd probably find it easier to get it ulez compliant. You'll definitely need a complete donor car for this. 2. UK MOT rules changed regarding emissions in 2002. Up to 2002 (02 registered) car emissions were based of the engine and when it was manufactured. So for example, if you fitted a 1970s rover V8 to your 2001 Audi it would only have to meet the 1970s emissions regulations. Cars registered from September 2002 (52 registered onwards) had to meet the emissions of the car as it was made that year. So you couldn't fit a river V8 engine to post 52 registered cars as emissions would be higher than the original engine when new if that makes sense.

This may be the one you need? FRONT LEFT DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR MECHANISM FOR AUDI A3 8P, A6 C6, A8 4E 8E2837015AA | eBay

Help…. My 2012 Audi A3 manual. Struggling to change gear, especially putting in first gear, very stiff and have to force gearstick in to 1st. When I push clutch down, car starts vibrating a bit and even when clutch floored it still creeps the car forward. Any ideas what it is please?

You're welcome 🙂

Thanks for your reply daveyboy. One of the locks I bought already was from Amazon but not that particular supplier. It's plasticy and probably also a cheap import but, like many people, I chose Amazon because it's so easy to return things that don't work. The other was from a far more serious setup in Germany and it did look a far better lock but it simply didn't fit so it, too, goes back. The basic problem about wires and voltages still exists, however. I have spent hours with YouTube and other sites trying to get this simple info but have drawn a complete blank. This is my first exposure to Audi and I must say I'm astonished at how hard it is to get decent info off the web. This negative attitude might carry through to dealers as well: I asked a local Audi specialist garage for help on where I could reliably source a lock that worked but he was very cagey and would only offer me a garage booking. He says you need the chassis number (which I have of course) but wouldn't offer any suggestions about retail sources. I had VWs (many) years ago and found them very easy to work on and get bits for but I'm taken aback by this experience with Audi. It's a complete contrast to my recent experience getting help and info about my son's Honda CBR600 F3. I had really detailed requirements about carb settings, jets and so on and the Honda Forum was incredibly helpful, as was a local motorbike specialist who cleaned them and set them up for me.

I did not know of these kits either, but from what I remember of having my car done by a professional one needs suitable pressure guages to ensure only the correct amount of gas is introduced. Furthermore I believe it is now compulsory to to collect and recycle old hydroflurocarbon refridgerant gas because of the damage done by it to the ozone layer of the atmosphere.

the same sensor twice.

I didn't know until earlier that kits were available to recharge/regas your car's air conditioning at home. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with these kits and if they would recommend them?

I have an Audi A4 2.0 tdi technik. A short while ago it came up with P04010 EGR insufficient flow detected error. We have cleaned the pipe from the block to inlet manifold (dirty but not blocked) and replaced the whole EGR/cooler unit (EGR valve, vacuum actuator and sensor all come as one unit) - the old cooler was blocked solid so the error code made sense. we cleared the error code after replacing the unit but it keeps returning. Sometimes, but not always, it triggers the engine management light. any ideas please?

Thanks for the reply Gareth. I can see and feel the bottle (and the big crack in it lol). But I have no idea how to change it!

You would think Audi have eliminated this as a possible cause on your vehicle to be honest. When you say they have changed it twice - do you mean the same sensor twice or BOTH the sensors, just to be clear there are 2