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I've replaced one lock actuator on my '03 A6 and have another one to replace. I got them on Amazon from a company called Frankberg for about £25 each, made in China but the quality seems fine and the one I've fitted is working perfectly. They're available on ebay too for similar money, I only used Amazon because the delivery was quicker and I was in a rush. Just enter your car details and you should get the right part, and the fact you now know what you're looking for in terms of connector type should make things easier. Hope this helps mate.

Hi, I have a Audi A3 S Line TDI 2011.... Does anyone please have a link to a video showing how to change the wiper bottle? Mine is cracked and wont hold water. Thank you in advance.

Thanks Steve in the boot near side.

This would be a good first step, it would at least let you know if you're heading in the right direction or just chasing shadows. Parasitic drains can be really hard to trace but I've read a couple of good guides that helped me in the past, if I can find them again I'll post the links here, good luck.

What are your current thoughts Monika?

Saw this too: https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1199225638538729

Yeah they have changed it twice, but think the car needs a good drive so the adblue system gets used and resets

Steve, thanks very much for that. Yes, that'll be our next step. It's a nuisance, though, cos we're so remote, but I'm going to have to do that, I guess. Thanks again. I'm no expert, though I can use a multi-meter and not too bad at figuring stuff out. But I think I've gone as far as I can. Thanks again.

Rybrook, thanks very much for that info. Actually, though, the car is sitting unlocked and no one entering it and nothing switched on. Battery still draining. This morning, w battery fully charged and reconnected, and at about 12.7V, that fuse is still showing current. Now, I've taken out the fuse and I'm going to check through the day to see whether the battery remains fully charged. Before disconnecting, I did enter the car and started it. When running, it's now showing a wee steering wheel symbol; the handbook says that's power steering, but the listing of fuses says clearly that F6 (5A fuse) is Instrument Cluster. I suspect that the power steering bulb being on may be an artifact of a failure in the instrument cluster module. Do you think that might be the case?

Thanks guys

Audi just called, battery not charging past 70% then draining after starting the car once. It also has a non genuine windscreen on it so the camera for lane assist pre sense etc can’t function properly because the tint is different. Hopefully these two things sort all the issues 🙏🏼

To change an engine on an Audi with all the electronics and imobiliser stuff is a nightmare. You'd be far better off changing the car. If the car is sentimental and you're adamant to do it then the best option would be to buy another A3 that is ULEZ compliant and changing everything over including engine, gearbox, ECU, full wiring loom, instrument cluster, high pressure fuel pump etc.

Instrument cluster issues are well documented. I'd recommend getting an auto electrician to take a look at the power drain.

Where abouts is it leaking from? Leaking injector seals are common.

Glad you got sorted 🙂

I think it might be worth you speaking to Audi customer services as you'll need a build certificate from them. You might also need a certificate of conformity from them to confirm the vehicle emissions to help with correct taxation class.

I suspect it's in the boot either right or left side panel.

Thank you @Rybrook for taking the time to reply. I will ask the current garage this question!

2009 Audi A3 cabriolet sports 1.8 tfsi. I just bought this knowing it had an 'intermittent' passenger door unlocking problem. It was actually permanent and manifests itself as being unable to open the passenger door (ie left) from outside after unlocking with the fob. Once opened from inside, it can be opened from outside. I've found VAG door lock problems are common so I've looked at loads of stuff online. I first checked the door pillar wiring and it all seems intact so I bought a new lock (actually I bought two from different sources) and was willing to try swapping the lock. I removed the lock yesterday and found that neither replacement would fit! One fitted electrically but not the meachanical linkage, the other fitted mechanically but had a slightly different plug! I'm returning them. I also found it's not that easy to check the wiring continuity because the loom into the lock plug is heavily braided so you can't easily see the wire colours or even how many there are without cutting the braiding. Having got this far, it seems sensible to check the wires and the voltages so I'd like advice on how to do this. Should I carefully cut throught the braiding? How many wires are in the plug, what colours are they and what voltages are they meant to be please? If it makes a difference, mine has that auto-locking as you gain speed. I'm assuming there should be three wires: an earth and a signal wire for operating the locking motor and another for unlocking the motor? But why are there so many pins? My second question is where can I get a replacement lock that will actually fit if the wiring all checks out and I still need to replace the lock? I have found it incredibly difficult to find the correct lock and there doesn't seem to be any markng on the lock itself to indicate the OEM number which would have helped. In the pictures, the dirty white one is mine!

Have you had the HPFP checked? This can lead to over fueling but the injectors should be able to cope. The fuel return line coul be at fault also

There is a consumer delay of about 15-20 minutes, from when you turn off the ignition or unlock the doors. You can see this by either opening the boot and watching the light turn off or removing the key after a journey and waiting for the interior cabin lights to turn off. I have a broken light in the glove box, the switch broke and the lamp eventually burnt out, this caused a parasitic drain till it broke. Only noticed when I swapped the concert radio for a new unit.

Welcome Monika, I think you first need to have it confirmed in writing that if you do this it will be acceptable to the ULEZ system monitoring. Perhaps you have already done this -? What will be the economics of doing this, and have you worked out the cost of buying (an unknown condition) engine and the labour charge involved - if as you say you can ( in caps) find someone who is prepared to do it? i.e. how many ULEZ free days is this going to cost you to get to a cost-neutral position? Kind regards, Gareth.

Monika. I believe your hopes are unrealistic. What you propose would be an an enormous job because not only would the engine have to be changed, but you would also need numerous sensors and their associated electronics, a complete wiring loom, and a complete exhaust system. Depending on what engine you select you may also need modified engine mountings, new front springs & dampers, new gearbox & drive shafts. Even if you find somebody willing to do it, the cost would be enormous.

Hi guys. I hope someone can help/ guide me with my query. I am wanting to convert my diesel Audi to a ulez complaint car by changing the engine. I’m having trouble finding someone who is able to do this for me. Some people are saying don’t do it just buy a new car but I don’t want to sell my car as it has nothing wrong with it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated Thanks

Hi Merc_320, although im sure Audi have already eliminated both NOx sensors on your SQ7 - my resolve did come with replacement of NOx sensor 1 despite the error codes and test plans suggesting a fault with NOx sensor 2