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Masina este un audi a6 2012 A6 c7 204cp 3.0TDI

20250425_063748.mp4 20250425_063748.mp4 hello colleagues, please give me some advice, I really can't figure out what it could be, it's only heard on the left side under the engine, a rattling noise, I changed the timing belt, oil pump, engine seals, engine covers

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 You'll find that most soft top roofs are glued as well as stitched these days. I guess the key question is, what's the warranty on the replacement roof?

You're welcome, sorry I can't help more.

,you're welcome. Never heard of that before. Has the engine pressure been checked? Is it over fueling etc?

I bet! Time will be going slow untill Tuesday I bet!

You're most welcome 😊 my C5 2.5 is off the road due to engine failure but it's een in my family from new so family clued up on them. My dad owned it initially then I inherited it from him. Sounds great, definitely peace of mind. Also ask when the cambelt and water pump were last changed. They should be changed every 8 years (I forget at what mileage). Body wise they're pretty good. Rust is common on the front wings, which is due to a foam insert on the inside top of the wing. Common issue in most vag cars of the 90s/noughties. Also rust along the bottom of the doors is common below the rubber strips. Bless ya. Thankfully my wife's xe is ok for now, but we have been discussing HR next car options when we do start having issues.

Thinking about it, but what happens to the Audi Warranty expires 15/4/26?

Hi Steve, got 2 issues, thanks for responding. Firstly blew the front, offside injector out, bent the injector pipe and smashed the return rail. Ripped the threads from the head. Have replaced the injector pipe, and sorting the injector, hopefully! Secondly, even after 2 new injector return rails, one cheap, then a bosch, still don't seem to be able to cure the leak on the rear, nearside injector. Any ideas will be gratefully received. Thanks, Kneale

Thank you for the help, I will definitely change them asap, also will attach a YouTube link later for anyone wanting to listen, I know google d links are untrusted, totaly get you. appreciate it

Sorry Hamza, I will not open links to untrusted sources, however if the tyres are as bad as you describe I have no doubt they are the cause of the noise.

Thank you for the fast reply. Yes they will be 4 years now in July, they have some outer damage, like ripped on some parts of the outer wall and also on them there is damage on few spots, deeper ones and cuts. since it wouldnt let me attach a file up there I will provide a google drive link to the video so if you could check would appreciate it. thank you https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_sxytpyKlPQB4zKVt4Mzt4rWkFDFmclJ/view?usp=share_link

Is there any damage to the summer tyres, or a foreign body such as a stone jammed in the tread? Are they even at the correct pressure?

Have you read the entire thread? There are numerous helpful hints and suggestions contained therein.

Passenger compartment fuse box #1 (left-side) A5 (located 5th from the right)0)A Auxiliary heater control unit -J364- it should be the only 20amp fuse in that row. Since I removed this, my car only drains once a year instead of every week now. Still have all other issues like lights blowing out and MMI stuck etc, but this did help.

For sale - 121k miles. Great clean example of a S3 AMK engine Audi S3 Quattro. 3200£

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001100606264.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.166.70b41802tnE6Oh I had this one in my Q5 for about 7 months and it worked brilliantly for Android Auto. I was even able to add a front and rear camera to it.

Hi there I have one of these for sale ,took it out of my Audi when I sold the car it the the BV auto one ,it is a good bit of kit but no use in my new Avant

Hello everyone, looking for help here, would appreciate it. Started hearing humming and grinding sound coming from the front of my Audi A6 C7 two weeks ago. Never had any problems with the car, clean maintenance done always on time, oil change, filters ect. After switching from my 18” winter wheels to my 20” rotors summer I started to hear this sound (will attach a video down if its possible) but not right away, 3 days after the wheel change. Brought the car back to the mechanic, they tried to see if its a wheel bearing problem but after rotating it, looking at it couldnt find anything, they said its good to drive but I feel it isnt , it sounds worse now then 14 days ago. The noise increases either speed, when you slow down from for example 90kmh down it makes like a jet noise haha helicopter noise I dont even know. Also you can feel a little vibration in the steering wheel and also in the gas pedal (automatic gearbox to mention), steering wheel is a little so to say soft when you go right but when you rotate left its more rought. any help would be appreciated, thank you! IMG_1851.mov

Hello, i have a similar issue wherein the car will lower itself at the back after around 45 minutes of driving. Whilst not driving, the issue is fairly sporadic in that it could sit at its regular height for up to a week at a time and other times it will be slammed to the ground 10 minutes after I turn the car off. Issue is at both left and right of car. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Afternoon all! This is my first post on this forum; nice to meet you all. Had lots of Audis in the past, but never a Cabriolet. Picking it up on Saturday. I do know that it needs a new plastic window in the rear of the soft top. I understand that usually the new screens are hand stitched in for about £300 at soft top specialists. However, I was wondering if anyone on the Forum had used Cristal Cabriolet. Their product makes use of the zip as per the stitched in ones but then has a 3m adhesive seal that you affix to the soft top fabric rather than stitching. I thought I might try this and then if the adhesive is insufficient stitch it myself using something like a Speedy Stitcher Awl. What are everyone’s thoughts on that? Cheers, Chris

Heather. There are a few companies who can repair your instrument cluster, ECU Testing being commonly mentioned here. They all require you to remove the cluster and post it to them. I forget the most recent price, but I know it was only a few hundred pounds, a fraction of the price of a new part from Audi.

Thanks very much for this response (just saw it now). Well...I've found that the battery isn't draining when it's connected to the car, and the instrument cluster fuse is removed, but drains rapidly when I reinsert the fuse. So that seems to confirm that it's that fuse, and presumably hence a fault in the instrument cluster. So my next step has to be to find a mechanic/electrical specialist to take it further. Many thanks to all for your advice.

Thanks all had a Couple of A6,s before and a Q5 really enjoyed them went away from brand but back now looking forward to collection.