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Audi just called, battery not charging past 70% then draining after starting the car once. It also has a non genuine windscreen on it so the camera for lane assist pre sense etc can’t function properly because the tint is different. Hopefully these two things sort all the issues 🙏🏼

To change an engine on an Audi with all the electronics and imobiliser stuff is a nightmare. You'd be far better off changing the car. If the car is sentimental and you're adamant to do it then the best option would be to buy another A3 that is ULEZ compliant and changing everything over including engine, gearbox, ECU, full wiring loom, instrument cluster, high pressure fuel pump etc.

Instrument cluster issues are well documented. I'd recommend getting an auto electrician to take a look at the power drain.

Where abouts is it leaking from? Leaking injector seals are common.

Glad you got sorted 🙂

I think it might be worth you speaking to Audi customer services as you'll need a build certificate from them. You might also need a certificate of conformity from them to confirm the vehicle emissions to help with correct taxation class.

I suspect it's in the boot either right or left side panel.

Thank you @Rybrook for taking the time to reply. I will ask the current garage this question!

2009 Audi A3 cabriolet sports 1.8 tfsi. I just bought this knowing it had an 'intermittent' passenger door unlocking problem. It was actually permanent and manifests itself as being unable to open the passenger door (ie left) from outside after unlocking with the fob. Once opened from inside, it can be opened from outside. I've found VAG door lock problems are common so I've looked at loads of stuff online. I first checked the door pillar wiring and it all seems intact so I bought a new lock (actually I bought two from different sources) and was willing to try swapping the lock. I removed the lock yesterday and found that neither replacement would fit! One fitted electrically but not the meachanical linkage, the other fitted mechanically but had a slightly different plug! I'm returning them. I also found it's not that easy to check the wiring continuity because the loom into the lock plug is heavily braided so you can't easily see the wire colours or even how many there are without cutting the braiding. Having got this far, it seems sensible to check the wires and the voltages so I'd like advice on how to do this. Should I carefully cut throught the braiding? How many wires are in the plug, what colours are they and what voltages are they meant to be please? If it makes a difference, mine has that auto-locking as you gain speed. I'm assuming there should be three wires: an earth and a signal wire for operating the locking motor and another for unlocking the motor? But why are there so many pins? My second question is where can I get a replacement lock that will actually fit if the wiring all checks out and I still need to replace the lock? I have found it incredibly difficult to find the correct lock and there doesn't seem to be any markng on the lock itself to indicate the OEM number which would have helped. In the pictures, the dirty white one is mine!

Have you had the HPFP checked? This can lead to over fueling but the injectors should be able to cope. The fuel return line coul be at fault also

There is a consumer delay of about 15-20 minutes, from when you turn off the ignition or unlock the doors. You can see this by either opening the boot and watching the light turn off or removing the key after a journey and waiting for the interior cabin lights to turn off. I have a broken light in the glove box, the switch broke and the lamp eventually burnt out, this caused a parasitic drain till it broke. Only noticed when I swapped the concert radio for a new unit.

Welcome Monika, I think you first need to have it confirmed in writing that if you do this it will be acceptable to the ULEZ system monitoring. Perhaps you have already done this -? What will be the economics of doing this, and have you worked out the cost of buying (an unknown condition) engine and the labour charge involved - if as you say you can ( in caps) find someone who is prepared to do it? i.e. how many ULEZ free days is this going to cost you to get to a cost-neutral position? Kind regards, Gareth.

Monika. I believe your hopes are unrealistic. What you propose would be an an enormous job because not only would the engine have to be changed, but you would also need numerous sensors and their associated electronics, a complete wiring loom, and a complete exhaust system. Depending on what engine you select you may also need modified engine mountings, new front springs & dampers, new gearbox & drive shafts. Even if you find somebody willing to do it, the cost would be enormous.

Hi guys. I hope someone can help/ guide me with my query. I am wanting to convert my diesel Audi to a ulez complaint car by changing the engine. I’m having trouble finding someone who is able to do this for me. Some people are saying don’t do it just buy a new car but I don’t want to sell my car as it has nothing wrong with it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated Thanks

Hi Merc_320, although im sure Audi have already eliminated both NOx sensors on your SQ7 - my resolve did come with replacement of NOx sensor 1 despite the error codes and test plans suggesting a fault with NOx sensor 2

You can jump the electrical side of the valve to see if your aircon pump clutch engages which would confirm what your suspectin. to change the sensor without degassing is usually possible as it should screw into a valve that will stop the gas escaping

No progress as no money this month 😂 I promise I’ll come back with an update after I get paid and get some work done! FWIW, though, I posted the same query on a number of VAG owners forums, and the same diagnosis came back every time: dodgy N280 regulator valve. It’s a cheap enough part, but the drain and re-gas means I can’t do it myself, annoyingly.

What progress on this problem Gary?

Hi all, thanks for having me. I'm getting desperate! I have an ongoing issue with leakage from my injector return pipes. I purchased some cheaper ones, and had leaks, so bought some bosch ones. 10 days and it has started leaking again. Is it the injector that'satfault? 2012 A6 avant c7 3L v6. As you look at the engine, it's the far one, on the right.

Plus 1, if you do want to still fit the bumper, you will need the bonnet, front wings, headlights and wing mirrors for the side repeaters unless you have them already.

Hi guys. I wonder if there's a wizard out here who could help me work out what to do. For about a year I've had an intermittent fault on my A3. It started with the EML coming on but was driving fine. Then the light would go off again for weeks sometimes. When the light stayed on long enough to get it into the garage and checked, I got these error codes: P0172 - fuel trim bank 1 system too rich P301 P130. My local garage changed sparks and coil pack, it went off for a while. Then it came back and it started noticeably misfiring, running rough especially when idling, but again, only intermittently. It would do it for one journey, or one day, or a few days, then stop for weeks. Our thinking was that this was likely an electronic problem rather than mechanical as it was so intermittent. Since then, the garage have changed the following parts: All 4 injectors Evap canister and valve Airflow meter Crank shaft position sensor Cam shaft position sensor Pre CAT 02 sensor Post CAT 02 sensor PCV Valve It cost me a pretty penny 😕 I picked the car up, it ran great for a week. Then one day I drove it for an hour, parked an hour, restarted and it was losing revs again, misfiring etc.. and then after I've driven it for 5 minutes it runs fine again. This time the EML is staying off. My garage, also at their wits' end, told me to take it to a specialist German car garage (it's already been into Audi dealership btw who said they wanted £800 to test which injector was faulty, so we just changed all 4 for less than £800! and it wasn't even the injectors...) There's no other symptoms that would suggest head gasket failure. The specialist garage is saying it passed the compression test but they'll try it again when the engine is hot. If it passes again, they want to replace the timing chain, and said it's going to cost about £1500 for parts and labour. Would it be intermittent like this if it was the timing chain? If it is the timing chain 100%, I'd go for the replacement... but how can they be certain? Could it be the ECM? Could it be failing fuel pump? I just don't know how much more money I can put into resolving this, when no-one seems to be certain what the fault is, and I've spent £2k already. It's done 82k miles btw. Any advice much appreciated.

Raising an old thread but spent some time on researching fitments so thought it might help . All mk7 appropriately sized parts fit as well as A3 8v parts. I recently bought an A3 35tfsi with 19" wheels. Bought on ebay a spare wheel 18" from a vw mk7 gti 2018 for £75, a jack set from vw mk7 for £45, a spare wheel well liner from an A3 8v for £35 and plastic bolt for £7.50. Could have got a spare wheel for less but of indeterminate age. Very pleased with the result and price😬

Hi there I'm new to this forum, and I have a problem (Audi A3 8P 2010). It has a new battery, just six months old, and over the past few weeks it's been running right down while the car is parked up. It holds its charge when the positive terminal is disconnected, so I'm looking for a fault in the car. With the battery fully charged, and the ignition off, I've checked for current across whatever fuses in the engine compartment that I can access while the fuse is in place (all the smaller fuses up to 20-30A - the thinking (possibly false?) that there should be no current flowing while the car is switched off. I'm getting a current across the 5A fuse at position F6, and a bit of a search on Google brings me to the diagram corresponding to the layour of my fuse box. F6 is the Instrumentation Control Module. My initial questions are: first, would a current across this fuse indicate a fault in the Instrumentation Control Module; and second, if so, then what - is it possible to buy a new module and just plug it in (wherever it's located, which I don't know), and would that be very expensive or is there another option? I live in a pretty remote place, so that getting the car to an Audi service place and leaving it there would be difficult for me. I'm by no means a car expert, as you can probably tell, but I'm hoping someone might be able to advise. The next step, I'm thinking, might be to remove that fuse and see whether the battery still discharges when the car is sitting and not switched on; the battery won't be fully charged till tomorrow, so in the meantime I'm trying to explore whether I'm on the right track or not. I should add that as far as I know the various instrument functions are ok, but again I can't confirm that till the battery is back connected up. Thanks in advance Heather

Thanks Sean, Let’s hope someone can help you on here. All I know is that the all important first document is a NOVA document which confirms all import duties have been paid. Then an MOT ( based on the VIN). It might be worth sending Fraser a PM, since he hasn’t returned to the forum for few years. Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Check around where the pipe goes Into the air bag also at either side.