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This youtube explains how to do it, just done it on mine recently all seems to be working fine, just need to make sure you have correct software version but it is all explaine in the video. https://youtu.be/eKvUdo1rOOw?si=EitK4oUMCr_9rOpR

Hello, I was troubleshooting a fault my usb & aux ports and after checking all the fuses for it my parking sensors stopped working. They were working perfectly fine before it. When you put the car into reverse nothing happens like they are not activating at all, pressing parking assist button doesn't do anything as well. I have gone back and checked the fuses again, all seems to be fine. Would pulling out fuses trigger a fault which needs to be reset with obd scanner? Is there any way on reseting parking assist system ( I did try disconnecting the battery for 10-15min).

Hi there, New owner of a 2010 A6. Love the car but the only downside is not being able to connect my phone to play media. Looking at upgrading the multi media unit and replacing with an android with Carplay etc. Anybody have any experience with this??

Will do

I have done a search on the forum and can't find anything as specific as this fault, unless I missed it. If that's the case please direct me. Fault - cold start engine runs rough for 10 to 30 seconds then settles down and all is well. If I unplug the maf sensor it's fine, I know what you're thinking but it's not the sensor. I bought a genuine used one, a genuine new one and even tried another from a working car, same result.....After the "alloted" time I can plug the sensor back in and all is fine, drives as expected. I've had pcv problems with other cars so I did replace this one, the old valve is okay - the blow and suck test. There are no codes or engine lights. Tried both my cheapo reader and a decent launch one. Car has had spark plugs recently during the service (fault was there before). No oil in the spark plug wells. Bought a used bosch coil pack and changed it on no. 1 cylinder. I thought about getting a new set of coil packs but don't want to end up spending a load of money on parts that are not needed. I don't expect a 'parts cannon' job to sort this out somehow. Checked a few times for leaks and done the normal checking including cable checking for continuity and connector drag test. Engine not using any coolant, oil seems fine also. I putting in E5 BP Ultimate or Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99 As far as I know there's been no remapping - how would I tell anyway? The car has standard parts, no boy racer upgrades. It just bugs me! I'd be most great full for any ideas on this one.......

Hi ive got a 1990 Audi coupe B3 type 89b and my rear right wheelarch has rotted pretty badly. Ive tried to find a replacement repair panel but i csn only find one for a audi 80 which is diffetent. Does anyone know where i could buy a replacement wheelarch? prefferably a new one. Thanks.

Not necessarily. 68 views does not mean 68 owners of the same model knowledgeable enough to identify a particular part number.

White worm corrosion, so lacquer lifted and oxide corrosion on the alloy. Certain acid-based wheel cleaners are known to be too aggressive, especially if you don’t wash the car yourself? Couple of options, get them diamond recut, can only be done couple of times, or opt to get them powder coated. Powder coated is more hardwearing. Another option, and probably more expensive is get a winter set of wheels. Road salt kills diamond cut wheels! So use them during summer only and wash by hand with a neutral PH shampoo and avoid car washes or drive throughs where you have no idea what’s being used.

Not aware of any issues with C8 platform. Biggest thing is budget. 50TDI (3 litre) Quattro models are paired with 8 speed Tiptronic unit. These are regarded as bomb-proof. Gearbox is sealed for life, but in reality a gear oil change at 80k miles or 8 years is recommended. 40TDI (2 litre) comes with 7 speed S Tronic unit and needs serviced every 38k miles. On both cars, if I was doing high mileage, then Tiptronic box is the one to go for. That will eat up the miles. In addition, avoid long service regimes. Change oil and filter every 8-9k, which in your case is every 6 months. Extras I’d be looking for as standard given £40k + spend, LED Matrix headlights, rear view camera, adaptive cruise.

Yeah, I have sent pictures to specialist near me for a price. Just takes the look of them when they look like that especially when the sun is shining on them

I think this definitely looks like moisture creeping in under the lacquer. This is a common site these days on modern alloys and in my experience the only answer is to have them re-furbished and as part of that process have the wheels protected by the specialists carrying out the work.

Yeah 7 speed S tronic. Does this sound normal for that box?

Never driven a 35 TDI (163PS) but sounds like it’s paired up with a 7 speed S Tronic box? There’s not many garages I would trust with modifying or remapping a gearbox. Obvious choice would be Darkside Developments (Barnsley). If it is the S Tronic unit it’s due a service every 38k miles. In addition, check with your insurance as remapping will be classed as modifying.

I’ve recently bought an Audi Q8 2018 (68). It comes with what looks like a professionally fitted tow bar which folds up underneath the rear bumper. I don’t need the tow bar and I don’t like the rear diffuser so have bought a price if Bodykit (rear diffuser) which will look a lot better imo. The problem is is that if I were to press the tow bar button in the boot next to the lower the boot function the tow bar would come out and break the new diffuser. any ideas on if it’s better to take the tow bar off or just disable the button? the tow bar does not have any easy to access nuts/bolts to remove as far as I can see and I massively favour disabling the button but don’t want to compromise the lowering the rear of the car function button next to it. Any suggestions greatfully received.

Ok, I will do a diagnostic check. One more thing, when I pass a speed bump , can hear a jerking sound from right front side. Can hear it only if driving slow across the bump

Hi, we have a 2020 A4 Avant 35 Tdi S Line. I love the look of the car and the feel on the road. But the engine just feels lacklustre and the gearbox is so delayed when wanting to overtake it’s not an enjoyable drive. Is this normal? It seems more responsive when gradually building up speed but when you want it to go some, it is almost a guessing game as to when the power comes? It also seems to stutter slightly going from reverse to first? So basically, is this normal for this car? And if so, can anyone recommend a remap for the engine and maybe for the box itself which may help? thanks

Nice one Mark, also see you are from Newcastle 🙂

Perhaps try sucking from the top end.

I'll call them on Monday morning and let you'd group know what they said. Almost certainty it'll be... We cannot diagnose over the phone, please bring it in for a diagnostic check at £125 or something, but you never know! Just editing my post. I'm an IT Engineer by trade and I just thought... I wonder what firmware all our radios have.. I'll look tomorrow and drop something here on how to check for those that don't know

If you enjoy banging your head against a brick wall you could write to Audi UK Head Office.

Hello, There is a drain located below the fuel cap. It is visible when you open fuel flap and is just at the bottom of the rubber collar that sits kind of under/around fuel filling "pipe". Mine is blocked and water is collecting in the space under the fuel flap. Does anybody know where this drain comes out under the car? I have tried pushing a flexible wire through it from the top to unblock it, but was not very successful although I was able to push quite a bit of the wire through. I thought I could maybe tackle it from the bottom end if anybody knows where it comes out.

That's the issue though - getting a clear diagnosis from Audi, unless the car has totally failed and been towed in. If it's intermittent or failing, rather than failed, you will have to be patient, while the dealer, afraid of not being reimbursed, jumps through hoops with your car to satisfy Audi UK. It *should* be straightforward to apply the 7 year warranty, but dealer actions say it isnt.

Thanks, you are right it is in the manual for the MyAudi app and it allows you to use the auto hybrid button which is the first click of the EV button but I was expecting a second click to change it to battery hold ! Very strange that a fundamental for efficient use of the EV ( when running long journeys in to towns / cities ) is not there or just not easy to find.

Hi if you are swapping to a buttoned wheel from non buttoned you will need the donor wheel and associated wiring loom and possibly another body control module which will leave it needing to be coded in to the new BCM to get it to work. Steve.

Hi more likely to be a sensor for the climate control.