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Thanks a lot for your reply, I do have a certificate of specification I don't know if that is good enough though, with regards to Audi UK, they said it has nothing to do with them, while Audi singapore said the certificate of specification is All they have, Am yet to get the car though but someone said they got certificate of conformity in the hand book which will help me a lot,I just hope it inside the handbook when I get it on Monday or Tuesday. Thanks for your concern, any help will be hugely appreciated at this point.

You can't beat a squirt or two of WD40 mate, well done!

Thank you for your help, Daveyboy. I've taken careful note of those sources for locks that you gave me but I THINK I've solved it without a new lock! I noticed yesterday that the lock was ticking when both the 'lock' and 'unlock' were pressed on the fob so this made me think (hope) that it was a mechanical problem rather than an electrical one. So I cleaned the mechanisms all out with one of those modern degreasers - actually WD40 degreaser. I put it all back together this morning after re-oiling and it works. My 79 year old eyesight and fingers aren't ideal for this sort of thing but I managed to re-connect the door handle operating rod in the correct place after a couple of false starts. I'll keep my fingers crossed. There are eight pins in the socket but only six in the plug but I'd still dearly like to know why six wires are needed for a simple open/close mechanism! I believe there are two, maybe three micro-switches in the electrics and the usual problem is that the connections to one or more of these become 'dry' or a little cracked. Very often simply resoldering the connections works apparently. They are simply (and cheaply) soldered in to the board and it's easy to imagine that they flex a little every time the switch is operated and eventually something gives. The micro-switches are, I believe, something to do with sending signals back to ECU about the status of the door: locked/ unlocked/ shut/ open etc. Thanks again.

Wondered if you have a budget limit on this Monika?

A further update, we have checked right into the inlet manifold where the egr feeds back in and also the tube where it passes through the back of the block are completely clear. we tried fitting the electric unit with the position sensor off the old one (that was working but the body was blocked) but that caused a constant hunting and a P0403 fault immediately so has been taken back off. The EGR flow is varying with throttle as you drive along as you would expect. at idle it is around 22kg/hr, it goes into the 60-70’s as you accelerate. Taking your foot off the throttle quite quickly seems to be what triggers it, the flow drops momentarily to 0.2-0.3 kg/hr.

Sadly no. And despite poking around the edges I can't see how the immovable back rest is attached. It must be removable somehow but I don't want to risk ripping it.

By the way, regarding repair costs the clutch was replaced on my A6 four years ago before I bought the car. The clutch kit was just shy of £600, and 5 hours of labour. Hope that helps mate.

I would be very wary of using this garage in the future, that's a new one on me. I don't understand why he wouldn't have inspected the clutch when he checked the flywheel? Definitely sounds like clutch to me. I hope you don't mind me asking, and please don't take this the wrong way but have you been driving long? I'm only asking because I was wondering if you would recognise when a clutch needed replacing as all the clues seem to be pointing that way.

Okay thanks for the info, I’ll bite the bullett and book in for repair. Any idea what I’m looking on paying to a local garage to replace clutch? Thanks

They done a software update instead or changing the windscreen…. They think this might fix the issues. The battery has also been replaced and coded.

And thank you guys for all your help on this situation. I really appreciate all the advise given to me.

My decision is still undecided but if it’s going to be too much headache then I’ll probably end up not changing the engine. I just needed some advise and guidance before I make a decision.

Nevertheless the clutch is not opening fully. It could be a broken release bearing, a damaged release lever, a defective slave cylinder, a worn driven plate, a damaged finger, or a worn flywheel. Whatever the cause, the clutch needs to come out.

Sorry, forgot to mention, no clutch slip either

Thanks - When the engine is turned off it is very easy to put in gear, no struggle at all. When engine on is when I have to fight to put in gear. It’s mainly just the lower gears (1 and 2). Pushing the clutch down just seems the same, except that when pushed right down the car starts vibrating a bit. Some times at traffic lights I have to turn engine off, put into 1st gear (easily) then turn the engine back on to be able to drive off. Spoke to my local garage and he said seems to be no issue with flywheel and nay just be crap built up and stuck behind clutch. Could this be true? He said it may fix itself in time and clear up, but just seems to be getting worse.

The head unit in my 2011 8p isn't turning on at all? Checked all fuses including one behind the head unit itself and all seems OK. Anybody have any ideas what could be wrong? Also if I need a used head unit does it have to be compatible for my bose speakers

Have you come to a decision Monika? We have offered our thoughts on the matter, how about giving us yours?

New clutch needed.

Any decision Peter?

Hi guys, had my engine remapped, dpf egr removed but clutch was old to start with and now is slipping alot. The guy did say it wouldn't last dentist increased bhp 220ish. So il need to replace clutch now. Any suggestions for a more sporty heavier duty clutch flywheel system? Preferably one that isn't like a million quid lol

That looks identical! Thank you. I've sent the seller the Reg and VIN number to check. It's much cheaper than the German one (that didn't fit) too!

Yes exactly I had the same ad blue issue coming up and done remapping and turned this off no more issues

Thank you

Also Andrew while you have the old lock out of your car have a look at the connector and count how many pins there are as this will help when ordering a replacement (some sites refer to them as poles).

Hi Clifford, yes, I totally support what you're saying about environmental issues regarding releasing refrigerant into the atmosphere and wouldn't contemplate it if that was involved. It seems these kits only replace the gas lost over time through evaporation rather than purging the system of old gas. Also the kit comes with pipework, connectors, and a gauge to ensure the correct pressure is reached (I'll add a pic as an example). That said though I have the same sort of concerns as you, and also whether these kits are actually effective or just a waste of money as I don't always trust the reviews on seller's pages to be 100% genuine so I was wondering if any other members had tried one before.