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Well after 20 years of VAG cars I’m saying bye bye and getting an a new E Class Merc next week. I’ve loved my A6, had it 4 years and 37k from new. No real issues except the odd niggle (creaky dashboard, I’m looking at you🤭). I seriously thought about keeping it longer, but 4 years is the longest I’ve ever had a car and I got an itch to get something newer. Hopefully I won’t regret it. Thanks for all the help here, and I may well be back in the future 😊👍👍

If I might, this is similar to my Passat well the engine I have a CRLB 148hp so a 35 in Audi language. I have the 6 speed dq250. So not the same but the final drive should be. What mode are you driving in? I find it's not a rapid thing TBH, it will happily overtake a couple of cars quite easily on the motorway. When you say stutter into reverse, is that when you select R and it hesitate before you move?

Hello, does anyone know where the fuelpump relay is located. I have a3 8pa 2007 2.0 TDI and vcds sayd relay from pump (j17) is broken but i cant find it. Sorry for my bad english hope you can help🙏

Is that not normal for a cold start? My 3.2 has a lumpy raised idle of first cold start. I don't move off until the revs drop down.

@Mark A6 I have the same software version but an older navigation database version.

Today I fitted the sound pipe from a MK2 TT 3.2. I had to shave the mounting brackets off the main pipe because of the A3 not having the same size bay. Now it sounds like having TB's but in the cabin. Might not be for some but if you have a standard vr6 with no mods it makes it slightly throatier.

So going to the control buttons, select Car, Cetup MMI, then scroll to the bottom to Version Information. Mine shows the version below. I did try re-scanning stations like others have suggested, and only the local / non-national stations have come back into play.

I was wondering if anyone had come across this before. My screen has failed but only one section, pictures attached. I assume a new screen will be required.

I would lay the cause of this at the car wash facility if this incurs any degree of power washing, and particularly if acid wheel cleaner is used - which it seldom isn’t. I you continue to get the car cleaned by jet washing it, the next problem you will encounter will be milky patches on the paintwork where the pressure washer and chemicals used, degrade the lacquer. Kind regards, Gareth.

I think your expectations are too high Ravi. Translate that over to EBay,,and the Views are meaningless. Try LLL,Parts website and see if they can help. Kind regards, Gareth.

Good idea. Thanks.

Worth advertising your want in specialist ‘Modern classic’ magazines. Let us know how you get on Ian. Kind regards, Gareth.

All done in stages, happy with the result. Hardest part was taking the diffuser off, fitting back on easy !!!

This youtube explains how to do it, just done it on mine recently all seems to be working fine, just need to make sure you have correct software version but it is all explaine in the video. https://youtu.be/eKvUdo1rOOw?si=EitK4oUMCr_9rOpR

Hello, I was troubleshooting a fault my usb & aux ports and after checking all the fuses for it my parking sensors stopped working. They were working perfectly fine before it. When you put the car into reverse nothing happens like they are not activating at all, pressing parking assist button doesn't do anything as well. I have gone back and checked the fuses again, all seems to be fine. Would pulling out fuses trigger a fault which needs to be reset with obd scanner? Is there any way on reseting parking assist system ( I did try disconnecting the battery for 10-15min).

Hi there, New owner of a 2010 A6. Love the car but the only downside is not being able to connect my phone to play media. Looking at upgrading the multi media unit and replacing with an android with Carplay etc. Anybody have any experience with this??

Will do

I have done a search on the forum and can't find anything as specific as this fault, unless I missed it. If that's the case please direct me. Fault - cold start engine runs rough for 10 to 30 seconds then settles down and all is well. If I unplug the maf sensor it's fine, I know what you're thinking but it's not the sensor. I bought a genuine used one, a genuine new one and even tried another from a working car, same result.....After the "alloted" time I can plug the sensor back in and all is fine, drives as expected. I've had pcv problems with other cars so I did replace this one, the old valve is okay - the blow and suck test. There are no codes or engine lights. Tried both my cheapo reader and a decent launch one. Car has had spark plugs recently during the service (fault was there before). No oil in the spark plug wells. Bought a used bosch coil pack and changed it on no. 1 cylinder. I thought about getting a new set of coil packs but don't want to end up spending a load of money on parts that are not needed. I don't expect a 'parts cannon' job to sort this out somehow. Checked a few times for leaks and done the normal checking including cable checking for continuity and connector drag test. Engine not using any coolant, oil seems fine also. I putting in E5 BP Ultimate or Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99 As far as I know there's been no remapping - how would I tell anyway? The car has standard parts, no boy racer upgrades. It just bugs me! I'd be most great full for any ideas on this one.......

Hi ive got a 1990 Audi coupe B3 type 89b and my rear right wheelarch has rotted pretty badly. Ive tried to find a replacement repair panel but i csn only find one for a audi 80 which is diffetent. Does anyone know where i could buy a replacement wheelarch? prefferably a new one. Thanks.

Not necessarily. 68 views does not mean 68 owners of the same model knowledgeable enough to identify a particular part number.

White worm corrosion, so lacquer lifted and oxide corrosion on the alloy. Certain acid-based wheel cleaners are known to be too aggressive, especially if you don’t wash the car yourself? Couple of options, get them diamond recut, can only be done couple of times, or opt to get them powder coated. Powder coated is more hardwearing. Another option, and probably more expensive is get a winter set of wheels. Road salt kills diamond cut wheels! So use them during summer only and wash by hand with a neutral PH shampoo and avoid car washes or drive throughs where you have no idea what’s being used.

Not aware of any issues with C8 platform. Biggest thing is budget. 50TDI (3 litre) Quattro models are paired with 8 speed Tiptronic unit. These are regarded as bomb-proof. Gearbox is sealed for life, but in reality a gear oil change at 80k miles or 8 years is recommended. 40TDI (2 litre) comes with 7 speed S Tronic unit and needs serviced every 38k miles. On both cars, if I was doing high mileage, then Tiptronic box is the one to go for. That will eat up the miles. In addition, avoid long service regimes. Change oil and filter every 8-9k, which in your case is every 6 months. Extras I’d be looking for as standard given £40k + spend, LED Matrix headlights, rear view camera, adaptive cruise.

Yeah, I have sent pictures to specialist near me for a price. Just takes the look of them when they look like that especially when the sun is shining on them

I think this definitely looks like moisture creeping in under the lacquer. This is a common site these days on modern alloys and in my experience the only answer is to have them re-furbished and as part of that process have the wheels protected by the specialists carrying out the work.

Yeah 7 speed S tronic. Does this sound normal for that box?