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No progress as no money this month 😂 I promise I’ll come back with an update after I get paid and get some work done! FWIW, though, I posted the same query on a number of VAG owners forums, and the same diagnosis came back every time: dodgy N280 regulator valve. It’s a cheap enough part, but the drain and re-gas means I can’t do it myself, annoyingly.

What progress on this problem Gary?

Hi all, thanks for having me. I'm getting desperate! I have an ongoing issue with leakage from my injector return pipes. I purchased some cheaper ones, and had leaks, so bought some bosch ones. 10 days and it has started leaking again. Is it the injector that'satfault? 2012 A6 avant c7 3L v6. As you look at the engine, it's the far one, on the right.

Plus 1, if you do want to still fit the bumper, you will need the bonnet, front wings, headlights and wing mirrors for the side repeaters unless you have them already.

Hi guys. I wonder if there's a wizard out here who could help me work out what to do. For about a year I've had an intermittent fault on my A3. It started with the EML coming on but was driving fine. Then the light would go off again for weeks sometimes. When the light stayed on long enough to get it into the garage and checked, I got these error codes: P0172 - fuel trim bank 1 system too rich P301 P130. My local garage changed sparks and coil pack, it went off for a while. Then it came back and it started noticeably misfiring, running rough especially when idling, but again, only intermittently. It would do it for one journey, or one day, or a few days, then stop for weeks. Our thinking was that this was likely an electronic problem rather than mechanical as it was so intermittent. Since then, the garage have changed the following parts: All 4 injectors Evap canister and valve Airflow meter Crank shaft position sensor Cam shaft position sensor Pre CAT 02 sensor Post CAT 02 sensor PCV Valve It cost me a pretty penny 😕 I picked the car up, it ran great for a week. Then one day I drove it for an hour, parked an hour, restarted and it was losing revs again, misfiring etc.. and then after I've driven it for 5 minutes it runs fine again. This time the EML is staying off. My garage, also at their wits' end, told me to take it to a specialist German car garage (it's already been into Audi dealership btw who said they wanted £800 to test which injector was faulty, so we just changed all 4 for less than £800! and it wasn't even the injectors...) There's no other symptoms that would suggest head gasket failure. The specialist garage is saying it passed the compression test but they'll try it again when the engine is hot. If it passes again, they want to replace the timing chain, and said it's going to cost about £1500 for parts and labour. Would it be intermittent like this if it was the timing chain? If it is the timing chain 100%, I'd go for the replacement... but how can they be certain? Could it be the ECM? Could it be failing fuel pump? I just don't know how much more money I can put into resolving this, when no-one seems to be certain what the fault is, and I've spent £2k already. It's done 82k miles btw. Any advice much appreciated.

Raising an old thread but spent some time on researching fitments so thought it might help . All mk7 appropriately sized parts fit as well as A3 8v parts. I recently bought an A3 35tfsi with 19" wheels. Bought on ebay a spare wheel 18" from a vw mk7 gti 2018 for £75, a jack set from vw mk7 for £45, a spare wheel well liner from an A3 8v for £35 and plastic bolt for £7.50. Could have got a spare wheel for less but of indeterminate age. Very pleased with the result and price😬

Hi there I'm new to this forum, and I have a problem (Audi A3 8P 2010). It has a new battery, just six months old, and over the past few weeks it's been running right down while the car is parked up. It holds its charge when the positive terminal is disconnected, so I'm looking for a fault in the car. With the battery fully charged, and the ignition off, I've checked for current across whatever fuses in the engine compartment that I can access while the fuse is in place (all the smaller fuses up to 20-30A - the thinking (possibly false?) that there should be no current flowing while the car is switched off. I'm getting a current across the 5A fuse at position F6, and a bit of a search on Google brings me to the diagram corresponding to the layour of my fuse box. F6 is the Instrumentation Control Module. My initial questions are: first, would a current across this fuse indicate a fault in the Instrumentation Control Module; and second, if so, then what - is it possible to buy a new module and just plug it in (wherever it's located, which I don't know), and would that be very expensive or is there another option? I live in a pretty remote place, so that getting the car to an Audi service place and leaving it there would be difficult for me. I'm by no means a car expert, as you can probably tell, but I'm hoping someone might be able to advise. The next step, I'm thinking, might be to remove that fuse and see whether the battery still discharges when the car is sitting and not switched on; the battery won't be fully charged till tomorrow, so in the meantime I'm trying to explore whether I'm on the right track or not. I should add that as far as I know the various instrument functions are ok, but again I can't confirm that till the battery is back connected up. Thanks in advance Heather

Thanks Sean, Let’s hope someone can help you on here. All I know is that the all important first document is a NOVA document which confirms all import duties have been paid. Then an MOT ( based on the VIN). It might be worth sending Fraser a PM, since he hasn’t returned to the forum for few years. Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Check around where the pipe goes Into the air bag also at either side.

Have you checked the bags on the rear for a leak? Could be just one of them

Cheers Dan

Randomly Dumps the air out of the rear suspension but not the front. I’ve already fitted new level sensors. Normally have to leave the car for a while then it’ll go back to normal.

Glad to ask any question you may have.

Hi All Encountering the same problem. The car has been with Audi for 4 months. NOx sensor changed twice, they are talking with Audi Germany to solve the reset on the display. They believe the car needs a big drive, so I they will give me back the car on Friday to blast it on the motorway. The car drove fine but the countdown is now to 400 miles. Wondering if anyone found a resolution.

it could be the return pipe to the compressor has come off but you would need to take a look.

The compressor was at fault with no other real leaks apart from a union on a rear air bag

Hi there yes my car works fine now..a few times a sporadic front level sensor but that's it.

Many thanks again.

The rear of what? Please explain.

Even if it was burning oil, which I doubt, you would not necessarily see a drop in level. A little oil goes a long way when it comes to making a stink. Furthermore oil fumes should not enter the cabin unless the crankcase pressure relief valve is blocked or the oil filler cap is missing. I believe you will regret accepting the car, but it's your money and your choice.

How did you get on resolving this. Mine dumps the air out of the rear then overheats the compressor.

I don’t know mate. Fair enough. But what i do know, is that all the service kits sold in the uk for the ZF8 hp55, which fit my SQ5 all have the 7ltrs. These are ZF’s actual kits. I can’t see them selling you a kit that is short by 1ltr.

https://aftermarket.zf.com/app/controller/ti/download/Binary/22f16dae-c571-11ec-a2e7-00505690da53.pdf Just stating what ZF say is needed for the oil change kit, soooo 🤷‍♂️

You cannot drain all the oil out on an oil and filter change on the Auto g/box, soooo, you just need the 7ltrs. Unless you plan on taking the torque converter out…..

That kit only includes 7 litres, ZF say the box needs 8 litres