regnills Posted April 20, 2018 Posted April 20, 2018 Ok had a slight snag with clutch master cylinder in that it kind of exploded. At first I thought it was the slave cylinder in till I took it out and saw it was fine. Checked master cylinder and there were loads of plastic bits in the football. Put the slave cylinder back on and replaced the master cylinder. The problem now is that the clutch doesn't have as much travel as it did before. The biting point is almost at the floor. Just about manage to change gear but reverse is a grind and thud. When I bled the system, I had major trouble getting the fluid in. I used eezibleed kit. Managed to get fluid going after pumping the clutch a bit. Actually a lot. Please someone help because I'm out of ideas now.
cliffcoggin Posted April 20, 2018 Posted April 20, 2018 Ten to one you still have air in the system. Since your Eezibleed kit doesn't seem to work properly I suggest you adopt the old-fashioned way of bleeding that requires two people to do the job: one to operate the pedal, the other to operate the bleed screw and top up the reservoir. Briefly the process is: Fill the reservoir. Attach a clear piece of tubing to the bleed nipple with the lower end in a jar. Open the bleed screw about half a turn. Push and hold the pedal down. Close the bleed screw. Lift the pedal. Repeat those steps until no bubbles are seen in the fluid coming out of the slave cylinder. It is essential the reservoir level is not run down to the point that air is drawn in again.
regnills Posted April 20, 2018 Author Posted April 20, 2018 The eezibleed kit did work eventually and it pushed out the old darkish brake fluid and started running golden and it pushed out the air bubbles until no more bubbles. I filled the eezibleed container twice so used quite a bit of fluid.
cliffcoggin Posted April 20, 2018 Posted April 20, 2018 Stephen. If the pedal travel was right before you worked on the hydraulics , and if the only change you have made was the master cylinder, then I still believe you have air in the system. On the other hand if the pedal travel was wrong beforehand you could have a worn clutch.
regnills Posted April 20, 2018 Author Posted April 20, 2018 I've had a lot of problems on this motor. 3 years ago the gearbox went. Changed that and change the flywheel to single mass. Changed the clutch and everything. The biting point after that was very high to the point where in 4th or 5th it would slip slightly due to wind resistance but only slip slightly. Eventually that stopped but the biting point was still extremely high. Roll on to last weekend. Just dropped the misses off and coming home dropped it into 3rd from 4th booted it then the clutch felt weird. Travel was shorter like it wasn't going down all the way. Pulled onto driveway and pressed it a little harder and pop something went. Thought it was slave at first but turned out to be master. Changed that and got what feels the same just before it went pop. Hard to engage 1st especially Got a new slave cylinder arriving tomorr5so I'm going to fit that rebled the system and see how it goes. Just a after thought. Could it be crap in the pipe causing a slight blockage. The fluid was very dark when bled it. Cheers
cliffcoggin Posted April 21, 2018 Posted April 21, 2018 Well you mentioned bits of plastic in the fluid, though I don't understand where they came from. I guess if some it got into the system it could limit the piston travel, score a seal, jam a valve. In your position I would dismantle both cylinders for thorough cleaning and blow compressed air through the pipe.
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