Critical_mass Posted July 14, 2018 Author Posted July 14, 2018 Also it's a manual and we trying to start says but foot on clutch and put in n or p
Critical_mass Posted July 14, 2018 Author Posted July 14, 2018 OK apparently that is normal. I didn't go with the le mans in the end, as I didn't want to take the risk with the eml being on, despite the seller saying he'd drop the price. It was too risky. Paul thanks for the replies mate 👍 In the end I've gone for a 2.7 sline. Instead of the 2.7 le mans sline. Doesn't seem to be any difference in spec between the two apart from the 19 inch rs4 (I think they're the rs4 wheels - 7 dual spoke). Instead mine came with 18 inch 5 spokes. Just had a run back from Birmingham to Leeds. Car didn't miss a beat, runs as smooth as, it's effortless. It needs tidying up a bit - cracked fog light, cracked rear light, missing boot cover, needs some news pads all round. Also one think I didn't notice when viewing, didn't notice until I got home is it looks like the passenger rear door has had a poor respray. Its very orange peely and duller than the drivers door. Also a paint patch in one of the sills. However there is no rust 👍 Paint work could do with tidying up. I'm going to get full detail done to tidy it up, which will show what is a genuine paint issue and not a scuff that could get buffed out.
WPAWS Posted July 14, 2018 Posted July 14, 2018 no problem with the replies m8, glad you walked away from the 1st one and shame on the seller saying he would drop price just to get rid. car is looking nice m8 enjoy the Audi experience 1
Critical_mass Posted July 14, 2018 Author Posted July 14, 2018 17 minutes ago, Paul A6 said: no problem with the replies m8, glad you walked away from the 1st one and shame on the seller saying he would drop price just to get rid. car is looking nice m8 enjoy the Audi experience Cheers, dude. For a 10 year old car it drives like new.
Critical_mass Posted July 14, 2018 Author Posted July 14, 2018 Also, it unfortunately only came with one key. I have the plastic key and the number. Any ideas how much audi charge to code a new key?
WPAWS Posted July 14, 2018 Posted July 14, 2018 my guess is set about £150 aside maybe more maybe less
Critical_mass Posted July 15, 2018 Author Posted July 15, 2018 I did forget to mention, in regards to the intake manifold issue on the other car. Found a receipt from Audi stating the eml being on and the n/s intake manifold was at fault. They've replaced both intake manifolds at 413 quid each, plus 402 quid labour. Ouch!! At least it'd done though.
Critical_mass Posted July 21, 2018 Author Posted July 21, 2018 Well spent the day changing the front and rear pads. Had to use vcds to wind back the rears, which was nerve racking as I'd heard you can fool the module if not done right, due to a software issue. Disabling them I got a Handbrake malfunction error, but once I'd re-enable them, it was fine. Was scary at first though seeing that error. Next up was to change the air filter and oil filter and oil. All went fine apart from one thing. As a precaution I'd bought a new sump plug and seal. So removed the old, drained the oil and put the new one back in, nipping it up tight enough. Did what I needed to do and then rolled the car down the ramps and filled up with fresh oil. Didn't think anything of it. I then decided to give it a quick wash. Then when it was time to leave (I'd done all this on my parents driveway), there was a pool of oil on the floor. So back up on the ramps, engine cover off and low and behold, the new sump plug was leaking like mad. Tried nipping it up but it just wouldn't seal. In the end I had to put the old one back on. Difference between them is the washer, the old is a thin possibly aluminium one, the new is a thicker (about double thickness if not slightly more) and made of copper. It's the correct plus and washer (its just a washer), so no idea why it just wouldn't seal. Other than that it was fine, I'm just baffled by the new oil plug.
niedzial1983 Posted July 21, 2018 Posted July 21, 2018 1 hour ago, Critical_mass said: Well spent the day changing the front and rear pads. Had to use vcds to wind back the rears, which was nerve racking as I'd heard you can fool the module if not done right, due to a software issue. Disabling them I got a Handbrake malfunction error, but once I'd re-enable them, it was fine. Was scary at first though seeing that error. Next up was to change the air filter and oil filter and oil. All went fine apart from one thing. As a precaution I'd bought a new sump plug and seal. So removed the old, drained the oil and put the new one back in, nipping it up tight enough. Did what I needed to do and then rolled the car down the ramps and filled up with fresh oil. Didn't think anything of it. I then decided to give it a quick wash. Then when it was time to leave (I'd done all this on my parents driveway), there was a pool of oil on the floor. So back up on the ramps, engine cover off and low and behold, the new sump plug was leaking like mad. Tried nipping it up but it just wouldn't seal. In the end I had to put the old one back on. Difference between them is the washer, the old is a thin possibly aluminium one, the new is a thicker (about double thickness if not slightly more) and made of copper. It's the correct plus and washer (its just a washer), so no idea why it just wouldn't seal. Other than that it was fine, I'm just baffled by the new oil plug. Quick tip on rear pads. You can reverse + and - on the epb motor and wind the pistons this way 🙂 . If you have no access to vcds
Critical_mass Posted July 21, 2018 Author Posted July 21, 2018 3 minutes ago, niedzial1983 said: Quick tip on rear pads. You can reverse + and - on the epb motor and wind the pistons this way 🙂 . If you have no access to vcds Yeah I'd read up that you could do it manually. But I do have vcds so wanted to do it the correct way. Done it once now, so I'll be more confident in the future. 🙂
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