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Posted

Hi I really hope someone can help me with a massive problem.

I have a grey Audi A3 s manual that was my baby until someone trying to help me get started after a flat battery jumped me and had the cables the wrong way around frying my ECU!!

I have had someone come look at it and he quoted me 800 just to get the ECU sent off for repair (not including taking it out and refitting it) plus he mentioned something about having to still reprogramme it once fitted?! And it's more than the car is worth it being 2003.

So he said I should do this or try and get clocks,locks,keys and ECU from a similar car but I would still be looking at around the same amount!!? So I looked around online and found a cheap 2006 Audi A3 2,0 four door and needed a car so I bought it and it's automatic or tectonic gears. Well all I'm going to say is that it was cheap for a reason and gearbox slips and other issues.

So I really really need to know weather I can use the ECU from a 2006 automatic to repair my 2003 s line ??? Any ideas anyone???

I can do the work myself but I really don't want to go through all of this to find it doesn't work?? Or even worse end up with two unusable vehicles.??! Please please please let me know.

I have already taken the s line ECU out and it is definitely dead. Sounds like a maraca when shaken lol. 

 


Posted

I can do the work myself swapping clocks locks and ECU but I don't want to do it all and find out it doesn't work 😫

Or worse I end up trashing the automatic ECU and end up with two undrivable Audi A3's ?! 

Also I will be putting all leather interior and carbon fibre parts on the grey s line and all other upgrades and extras.

I have tried to speak with Audi mechanics and they refused to say either way and to get the original ECU and clocks fixed would be more than the car is worth. 

Please advise as I am struggling at the moment and i know that there is truth in green cars been unlucky as I have never had as many issues with a vehicle in my life and I once owned a rover lol

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi, I had an issue with my Alfa's ECU.  I sent it to a company called ECUtesting.com and they were both quick and helpful.  I don't work for them and there are other ECU repair companies out there.  They would be a good source of advice should yours not be repairable. Good luck!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I think my problem goes deeper than just the ECU after fitting two different ones now.

I have tracked down a donor vehicle with matching numbers and soon to be able to renew all components.

The annoying part is she starts first time every time but just dies seconds after.

And have been getting no Life from the clocks . 

I have tried a few ECU repair places and been quoted 5-600 and like I said I think it's more than just the ECU.

I will call the ECU repair and find out . Cheers Adam 54

Posted

Hello Adam, 

Please do not take this as read, since my knowledge of these things is limited, but to me, since it does start, but stops very soon after, it might suggest immobiliser issues rather than in-depth ECU. 

I'm sure someone on here will point you in the right direction. 

Kind regards,

Gareth.

 

Posted

Ah, starting then dying is different from a 'fried' ECU.  In my limited experience, a failed jumpstart can damage the alternator or stop-start electrics.  If the car starts, then the immobiliser is working.  And the ECU is also permitting a start.  And you have fuel and ignition working, so we're way ahead in terms of logical fault-finding.  Keeping the engine running is the challenge. I think you're jumping to conclusions that the ECU is at fault, when it is much more likely that it is a simpler, easier problem to solve.

In order, my thoughts about possible culprits are:

1. Fuel pressure (I.e blocked filter, dead pump or pressure regulator)

2. Air Leak (I have come across a car with the inlet trunking disconnected that did exactly the same).   

3. Sensor failure (in particular, a failed Coolant temperature sensor would cause this effect) I would connect a code reader (the port is behind a little removable panel in the front centre console).  Have a look at the live data and make sure all the sensors have plausible data.  For example, inlet manifold pressure, coolant temperature etc.  You might hit the jackpot and find some codes that will indicate the source of the issue.  You can get a simple reader for £35.

On Board Diagnostics (OBD) became mandatory for petrol cars from 2001 onwards. The clocks are connected by a couple of large connectors on the rear of the unit.  Access is a click panel and 2 bolts.  There are some online videos out there that show you the simple process of removal. Have a look at this?

Good luck!

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