Battery charging paranoia

[Harris]

As you know my 2.4 V6 wont start and on trying to get it started I flattened the battery just enough power to light the engine management lights on the dash but hazards were just a dull glow and not enough power to use central locking. 
 

Living Bude the only place open that sells battery charges is B&M Bargins so I bought a £15 RAC 4 amp charger yesterday and put it on charge around 16:30. The charge light lit up and I’m still waiting for the fully charged light to I light nearly 26 hours later. 
 

im starting to think my battery is toast

does anyone have any idea how long a battery should take to charge? 

I did hear Once that running your battery to empty does kill it but this was from a bloke in a pub- I’m not entirely sure he was qualified but it did make sense

lock down is crippling me financially I am faced with either a coolant temp sensor or a new fuel pump replacement and we all know what Audi charge for these the thought of an additional £100 for a battery is stressing me out
 

im hoping someone out there has done the same thing and it took them many many hours to charge theirs

[Steve Q]

I guess this will depend on how powerful the charger is. 

Normally, a car battery often holds 48 amps so if you charge it at 1 amp, it will take you 48 hours. Similarly, if you charge your car battery at 4 amps, the total time to make the battery fully charged is about 12 hours.

however you'd be surprised how many electrical/mechanical problems can occur by a failing battery. My advice would be to change that first to see if it helps remedy the other problems. 

cheers

Steve

[Magnet]

Hello Harris,

Sort of what Steve says. It depends on the ‘capacity’ of the battery in Ah - which I would think would be at least 75Ah in your case. 

Does this RAC branded charger have an ammeter on it, to tell you what current you are charging it at - which should reduce as the battery gets towards fully charged? 

Unless this charger is a very simply trickle charger - which I doubt it is - if you’ve charged the battery for 24 hours then it should be sufficiently charged to turn this engine over enthusiastically, if the battery is serviceable. 

When it broke down and wouldn’t start, how long did it turn the engine over for before going flat? 

In any case, can’t you borrow a battery and some jump leads? Personally, I would not be trying to jump start your car from another car unless you are totally (in caps) confident and experienced  in correctly connecting jump leads. 

Kind regards,

Gareth.

[Harris]

You are confirming my paranoia- in all honesty confirming what I already know

its an old battery and it takes four or five turns of the engine before it fires (still fires first turn of the key but on the fifth engine rotation)

The RAC charger just has two LED lights one to say charging and one to say full and the full light is still not lit. I was hoping that the as the charger was so crappy and my battery so big that’s why it wasn’t reaching full charge- just wishful thinking

The reason I bought the charger is when I tried to jump start it from my wife’s car it seemed to cut off all power. I put a brick on the wife’s accelerator and got in the Audi and turned the key and got nothing not even dashboard warning lights until I disconnected them which concerned me ( yes I checked and double checked the leads were on correctly)

i am going to try it again later
 

checks to do when I have power:

1) fuses and relays and add a gallon of fuel in case my gauge is faulty 

2) tank pump (I can hear the injection pump prime under the bonnet but there are that many things that fire up and him when you turn the key I’m going to lift the back seat

3) if a above ok coolant temp sensor- but I think the only way I can check that is by replacing

if I do get charge in the battery and can connect jump leads to boost the power then hope would be that I have sufficient voltage to trick the car into thinking the battery is at 100%

 

thanks again guys

[Magnet]

OK Harris,

The story unfolds - as it usually does when more details are requested. 

The fact that the engine does not turn over until the 5th turn of the key suggests connection or starter motor issues, but you confuse me with reference to ...’ fires on the first turn but on the 5th turn engine rotation. Sorry, don’t understand! 

If you’ve tried jump starting it and does not turn over, then it could point to your battery having failed ‘open circuit’. Had a case where this occurred with a 15 month old car. 

If this were mine then I would be substituting the battery you are trying charge, with the battery from your wife’s car - seems you know what you are doing, so know the does and don’ts. 

If this doesn’t turn the engine over first turn of the key then you know you have connection or starter motor issues. 

You can, and I would, have your battery checked at Halfords for example - if open. To me, this would be essential, since until you know whether it’s serviceable or not, you are just wasting your time. 

Keep us posted.

Kind regards, 

Gareth. 

[Harris]

Modern cars are an electrical nightmare sensors and switches and modules and relays- there is a part of me that longs for a Ford Cortina

sadly my neatest Halfords is 40 miles away but I did think about that

what I meant by the fourth or fifth rotation of the engine is

Put the key in and turn it and the engine turns over two or three times then fires. Mine on the first turn of the key turns over four maybe five times before it fires 

you’re right though a good battery does make sense But- here is my issue: I can afford a new battery or a new Audi fuel pump or new Audi temp sensor but two of these would put a strain on the family finances in the face of a continued lock down. So by doing the above basic checks (and now check connectors) I’m hoping I can identify the cause of the problem. 
 

you’re on to something with the starter motor- I bought the car in June last year. About a week after I bought it I started but got distracted and didn’t let go of the key once it fired. The starter motor didn’t disengage and the car made an awful rattling noise until I quickly turned it off. Never had a problem with it since but the concern has always stayed with me. 

it’s rained today in sunny Bude so I’ve not been out to it (water and electrics don’t mix and I don’t want more problems)

so new check list

1) check fuses relays and connections (starter and other connections) still need to look at plugs too

2) tank pump

3) temp sensor if no joy from above

I appreciate this is a 17 year old car but it has been well looked after and has a fully stamped Audi service history and main dealer receipts for all the work done over its lifetime. if this had happened any other time of year I’d have just transported the car to Audi and told them to fix it

having said that I now know more about this car than any other I’ve owned so I feel more confident for its future in my ownership

 

thanks guys 

[Magnet]

Hello Harris,

The more you post, the impression I get is that you are not unfamiliar with the basics, but I really think you are missing out on the first line logical approach, and diverting valuable brainwork by trying to think of lists of possibilities, before you have eliminated the simple things first. 

Everything you say points me to advising that it is essential that you get the battery serviceability checked, so it can either eliminate this, or prove it is suspect. Without carrying this simple test, you run the risk of spending unwisely by replacing other non essential items. Just don’t go there.

OK, Halfords are 40 miles away, but surely there must be some local garage or motor factors closer by, who can test it for you. I’d be devoting my time to investigate this avenue. 

Having said that, it would not be surprising if the starter motor/solenoid/connections were found to be not as good as expected, but it’s simple things first - so definitely get the battery checked. 

Perhaps you could let us know how you get on.

Kind regards,

Gareth.

 

 

[Harris]

Thank Gareth good advice

i will admit I am stressing out over this and probably over thinking it. A wife and two kids and a mortgage on top of running a car that’s probably impractical. It’s difficult to justify these costs upon the family budget so thank you everyone for your patience and indulgence 
 
sadly Bude has very little in terms of businesses at the moment- it’s a remote seaside town that relies on tourism so I will stick it in the boot of my wife’s car and take a drive out. Power should be my first port of call and with the vast array of electrical components on these modern cars a weak battery is only going to stand in my way

will report back later
 

have a great Thursday every one

[Magnet]

Thanks Harris and good luck with it. 

The best way to cope with worry is to only worry about one thing at a time.

The major worry at the moment is about a thing called survival. Anyone who survives this can then worry about other things in an order of the next important issue. 

I really do wish you and yours well. 

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

[Harris]

Ok I should be happy but I’m not!

it started.....

started as usual other than the ESP light coming on which is normal after you disconnect the battery 

running a tiny bit lumpy (it’s been stood for a week)

I drove it the few hundred yards home (drove fine) let it stand and get to temp. Turned it off and left it to stand for ten mins and it started again as usual. Lots of moisture from the exhaust so held it at 2000rpm until the white spoke cleared. Runs fine  Didn't want to take it for a run as I don’t quite trust it  

The battery does need replacing although it is still starting it

Doesn’t  answer the question as to why it cut out other than my first assumption of too much fuel in the cold cylinders

Kids started playing up so had to come in but will still do all my checks tomorrow and still waiting for the spark plug socket to arrive in the post

So stay tuned and I will update tomorrow 

[Steve Q]

Glad it started. I do think a new battery is the first port of call. I still wonder if the cylinders got flooded. As you say doesn't explain the cutting out though. 

[Magnet]

Great Harris,

Personally, I wouldn’t touch this car (spark plugs etc) until you have had the battery checked. If you fiddle about with spark plugs etc. and the trouble returns, you will be left in a situation of not knowing whether you have created another issue. 

The battery efficiency is fundamental, so I would strongly advise to leave everything else alone until you are sure it is serviceable or not. 

Kind regards,

Gareth.

[Harris]

You are right about the battery and it’s my biggest concern as from experience in the past with Jags- once they’ve flattened they’re never the same again and as I’ve pointed out this is an old battery so I’ve ordered a new one ( just £80)

kids are off out for a walk with mum shortly so going to have a look at the connections as a bad one won’t do a good or bad battery any favours

no longer any point of checking fuses as it’s started with no errors- no fault codes either which surprised me as we all know the battery is not 100%. 

Key fob is not working since I’ve got it going and I’ve forgotten the reset procedure- I’m sure someone has posted that on here so will do a search later

ive found a brand new Audi branded coolant temp sensor in with the bag of parts that came with the car from its previous owner- bonus

[Steve Q]

Good luck 👍

Here's a video on the key reprograming: 

Cheers

Steve

[Harris]

50 minutes ago, Steve Q said:

Good luck 👍

Here's a video on the key reprograming: 

Cheers

Steve

Thanks Steve that’s it

i will need the spare key though I’ve left that at work......

[Magnet]

Harris, please do not fiddle with the non working remote until you fit your new battery. The car has started with your non working remote, so any fiddling with it may just introduce another variable. 

One step at a time!

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

[Steve Q]

1 hour ago, Harris said:

Thanks Steve that’s it

i will need the spare key though I’ve left that at work......

You're welcome 👍 

And I totally agree with Gareth. Don't fiddle with it untill your battery issue is sorted. I have a suspicion you could potentially Leave the car completely dead. 

Cheers

Steve

[Harris]

Thanks Guys

We’re on the same page chaps- I’ve decided to take the car off the road whilst I’m home and tackle all the outstanding jobs and the new ones I’ve come across like rocker cover gaskets and I think a power steering fluid leak. The MOT is due in July it has a raft of advisory’s that I should address. 
 

But I do think I can round off this thread by saying “yes” my battery was as all signs indicated- defective. 

Battery has now been replaced- going to have a poke about tomorrow and see if I can figure out why it cut out in the first place: Will update that in my original thread

Thanks Guys

[Steve Q]

9 hours ago, Harris said:

Thanks Guys

We’re on the same page chaps- I’ve decided to take the car off the road whilst I’m home and tackle all the outstanding jobs and the new ones I’ve come across like rocker cover gaskets and I think a power steering fluid leak. The MOT is due in July it has a raft of advisory’s that I should address. 
 

But I do think I can round off this thread by saying “yes” my battery was as all signs indicated- defective. 

Battery has now been replaced- going to have a poke about tomorrow and see if I can figure out why it cut out in the first place: Will update that in my original thread

Thanks Guys

Glad you've replaced the battery, please let us know how you get on with the other jobs 👍

Cheers

Steve