Not starting & doors not opening!

[Guest]

My car won’t start coming up that the battery’s low despite me having the battery changed a week ago, I don’t think the cold weather is helping. Another problem is the doors won’t open from the outside, once opened from the inside they will open no problem until you lock the car so I can’t even get in the car! Can anyone offer some advice please I’m having nothing but problems. 
 

thanks 

[Magnet]

Hello Charlotte,

’Wont start’....Do you mean the starter motor won’t turn the engine over at a reasonable speed to start the car, or the engine does turn over energetically enough, but won’t start? 

Make of new battery? 

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

[Guest]

19 hours ago, Charlie1280 said:

My car won’t start coming up that the battery’s low despite me having the battery changed a week ago, I don’t think the cold weather is helping. Another problem is the doors won’t open from the outside, once opened from the inside they will open no problem until you lock the car so I can’t even get in the car! Can anyone offer some advice please I’m having nothing but problems. 
 

thanks 

 

[Guest]

8 hours ago, Magnet said:

Hello Charlotte,

’Wont start’....Do you mean the starter motor won’t turn the engine over at a reasonable speed to start the car, or the engine does turn over energetically enough, but won’t start? 

Make of new battery? 

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Hey Gareth, 

the battery was flat I have had it on a battery charger today and will start again now it has charge make of the battery is lion. 
 

charlotte x

[Magnet]

Thanks Charlotte, 

‘Battery is Lion...’

Um!

I must stress that this is a personal opinion only:- In my book, this would come out as top of the shop in reverse order! 

If this were mine, I would be returning this as suspect faulty and acquiring a replacement - of a different make? 

I’m not claiming this is the cause of all your issues, but I would be eliminating this first. 

Kind regards, 

Gareth. 

[Guest]

So I had some independent mechanics sell & fit this lion battery cost me £150, this was because I went to start my car and it was completely dead when they took the battery out to replace it, there was a hairline crack at the bottom of my old battery and battery acid had leaked into the boot. Do you think this could be anything to do with it? Personally I think something must be draining the battery down, As this isn’t the first time it’s been dead and it’s now on the 3rd battery within a year.  I just don’t know where to start with it I’m having multiple problems has a check engine light on for the inlet manifold as well as the doors not opening, they have been intermittently not working for months started out just 1 door and now it’s all 4. 
 

charlie x

[Magnet]

Hello Charlotte,

I feel for you - £150 to supply and fit a Lion battery. Of course, this may have included a call out and first-hour charge, so perhaps we shouldn’t be too critical. 

Moving forward:- 

If this were mine, I would be charging this battery overnight, and getting its efficiency independently checked. It may well be serviceable, but you have to start off from a point of confirming whether it is or isn’t. If it isn’t, then get yourself a refund, and replace it with a good quality one.

I too would suspect you have a parasitic drain on the electrical systems ( as well), and this can be easily confirmed/refuted via. a simple specialist test. If indeed it does, then it is a specialist job to identify the offending circuit/s - unless you have the correct meters and specialist knowledge. 

Summary:- Get the battery charged and tested. Replace if suspect. If serviceable, engage the services of a trusted local auto electrician to assess and source any parasitic drain. 

Kind regards,

Gareth.

[Guest]

I was actually told that was trade price so clearly I’ve overpaid there, what battery would you recommend? 

I don’t have very much knowledge on cars and this is my first car! It’s proving difficult to keep up with all its issues. Without sounding silly how would I find an auto electrician & any idea on how much it should cost to get a test. 
 

the mechanics I bought the battery from are meant to be coming out today but I fear won’t allow me to have a refund as I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the battery itself, I’ll also try and get over to a Halfords & see if they’ll check the condition for me. 
 

im also still trying to source a new inlet manifold, do you think I would be better of going to a garage to get this work done rather then with independent mechanics?

thank you for all your advise so far I appreciate it. 
 

charlie x
 

[Magnet]

Hello Charlie, 

Hope you don’t mind me spelling this out, but:- 

Delay/do not employ the mechanics you used last time, until:- 

Charge the battery for at least overnight, and yes go to Halfords who should be able to test the battery for you - free of charge? A personal view, but I tend to buy Varta/Bosch batteries on line at competitive prices from battery specialist suppliers such as Battery Megastore, Tanya, Plymouth Batteries etc. 

If the battery is shown to be serviceable then steer clear of the mechanics you used last time. If it proves unserviceable then get them to refund your expenditure for the battery. 

Auto electricians? Simply Google this for your locality. 

Ask around for recommendations for trusted local garages - why employ the services of mobile mechanics? - unless they come from recommendations. 

Inlet manifold? I would get the battery/ parasitic drain !Removed! seed before moving on to this. 

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

[Magnet]

I have now had a PM from Charlotte, where as well as seeking more clarification on issues with the car, she advises that the charge made to renew the battery also included other investigations which were carried out without charge. I have asked her whether she objects to me posting this additional information contained within a PM, and no objection has been received. 

I feel I have unfairly judged her mobile mechanics (who I understand she is happy with and trust) - my  judgement being based on the facts which were contained in her posts. For this, I apologise on behalf of the forum.

To me, this demonstrates the need to clearly and comprehensively describe the full facts within any post, and I - frustratingly from both sides - find myself, boringly, having to ask for further information/clarification from posters seeking help on here, since the symptoms and background are not made as clear as they should be. 

I still stand by the remainder of my advice to Charlotte. 

To be honest, this is a bit of a rant, and I am finding myself spending an increasing amount of time either asking posters to explain in more detail - and many don’t even bother to respond, offering advise, with responses of been- there-done-that,although they haven’t said, or as usual, a total absence of any basic acknowledgement for time spent in trying to help. 

Sorry folks for boring with this, but I guess you will get the gist of where I am with this. 

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

 

[DEREKCO2]

On 1/11/2021 at 12:13 PM, Charlie1280 said:

I was actually told that was trade price so clearly I’ve overpaid there, what battery would you recommend? 

I don’t have very much knowledge on cars and this is my first car! It’s proving difficult to keep up with all its issues. Without sounding silly how would I find an auto electrician & any idea on how much it should cost to get a test. 
 

the mechanics I bought the battery from are meant to be coming out today but I fear won’t allow me to have a refund as I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the battery itself, I’ll also try and get over to a Halfords & see if they’ll check the condition for me. 
 

im also still trying to source a new inlet manifold, do you think I would be better of going to a garage to get this work done rather then with independent mechanics?

thank you for all your advise so far I appreciate it. 
 

charlie x
 

Don’t get an inlet you can get a bracket to fit the inlet flap the light is on because the throttle arm is travelling to far back also how old is the car 

[DEREKCO2]

If you have a fault code P2015 go to eBay and google P2015 repair bracket it solves the engine light 

[Guest]

3 hours ago, DEREKCO2 said:

Don’t get an inlet you can get a bracket to fit the inlet flap the light is on because the throttle arm is travelling to far back also how old is the car 

Hey it’s an 08 plate & unfortunately for me I’ve had the repair kit already for the code p2015 & changed the actuator, neither worked for me light came straight back & chucked the same codes out every time 😩 

 

[neilBr]

The bracket from x8r works (so far) on my 3.0 Quattro. https://x8r.co.uk/

The 2 stainless steel brackets (one each side) simply limit travel rather than replacing any costly parts. Self fit is easy following their video 

£15.99 is massively cheaper than new manifold / motor assemblies. 
 

[Guest]

I had the inlet manifold replaced in the end. Runs much better for it now and no more lights. As for the doors not opening, this is still something I’m looking into as currently now in summer there all working again but I feel when the weather gets colder they will stop opening. 

[neilBr]

Sorry about your troubles. Halfords I feel don’t always employ the best mechanics plus they can’t possibly know every car. Go to an Audi specialist. 
Sorry you had to get the manifold replaced. They are so expensive. I hope the other side doesn’t fail. 
my mechanic (ex Audi guy near Brighton, much lower than dealer prices) told me the P2015 and P2020 errors can be ignored. But I didn’t like driving with the “ check engine” light on. 
Can’t get into the car?
Do you mean even using the key in the drivers door? 
If the central locking is faulting, that may have been caused by the flat battery. 
You seem to like the mobile mechanics you used, they should be able to help you with why the battery is draining. 
or a good auto electrician. Try get a recommendation or Google for your area. 
car troubles! I feel for you  

 

 

[neilBr]

Ps

if You have replaced 3 batteries in a year, you should be claiming under warranty. Including for the one that cracked and leaked.

Batteries usually have a multi year warranty. 

[Guest]

Battery has been fine in the warmer months, and obviously the one that was cracked needed replacing. 
 

The doors was not opening from the outside but if I opened them from the inside they was fine ( I was getting in the car with the key) however when I was locking the car the battery was showing a drain the mechanics thought it was the immobiliser! But now it’s summer all the doors have started working again with no problems, so god knows? 
 

the inlet manifold I managed to get replaced with a refurb from Germany 🇩🇪 no lights on anymore and the car definitely seems more responsive! touch wood I haven’t had any more issues with that since. 
 

now I’ve got a leak somewhere in the passenger footwell, I think it’s to do with the air conditioning. It’s still working fine tho!

cars are a nightmare!😂
   

[neilBr]

Leak in passenger footwell is probably leaves blocking a drain under the bonnet back near the bulkhead. 
if you replaced 3 batteries in a year surely warranty was applicable. 

[Guest]

Yeah I have cleared it all out there was quite a lot of mess & im going to keep an eye on the leak, as for the batteries they’re probably was a warranty but the cracked one I didn’t install so it’s arguable it’s been damaged on install and I didnt have receipts. 

I assume the one I have in now Is under warranty with my mechanics.  

[neilBr]

There’s a drain down there somewhere I expect. My issue was on an A6 I had where there was a rubber gland to release water. The mechanic I use removed that and no problems after. If it continues maybe test with a hosepipe. If the water reaches a certain level it gets into the footwell (again on an A6 but you’d expect all to be similar). It’s stuff like this that make going to an Audi trained guy so useful.