Wheel bearing

[demiari]

Hello lads. Sorry its my first post if it has been covered i have been searching Internet all day trying to figure out if the wheel bearing play youll see in this video is within tolerance or any of you experts would say its goosed i have a scrap bearing and it has exactly the same play on it is it normal

[Magnet]

Hello Arjan,

Thanks for being in touch with the forum. 
I must admit that I’m having a little difficulty in understanding the questioning here - it’s probably me. 
As I see it, you have two used bearing assemblies (why two? - or have I got it wrong) ) and to me, both exhibit wear, so it’s difficult to establish why you are comparing 2 used ones, rather than trying to compare one used one with one new one? 
Perhaps you could fill in some extra detail.

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

[demiari]

24 minutes ago, Magnet said:

Hello Arjan,

Thanks for being in touch with the forum. 
I must admit that I’m having a little difficulty in understanding the questioning here - it’s probably me. 
As I see it, you have two used bearing assemblies (why two? - or have I got it wrong) ) and to me, both exhibit wear, so it’s difficult to establish why you are comparing 2 used ones, rather than trying to compare one used one with one new one? 
Perhaps you could fill in some extra detail.

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Thanks Gareth for your replay.

Now that i am reading my own question, i don't understand what i meant sorry for confusion.

I was pretty sure the bearing has excessive play out of tolerance but then I wanted to be sure as i don't own this car long, thought maybe its normal play on the new models i still went with my gut feeling and replaced the bearing on drivers side, it made huge difference more confined steer feeling even though the car has only 80kmiles the bearing was guessed, going to replace the passenger side tomorrow too, checking other sites they do suggest to change them 75k to 100k, there was no indication of how the car was handling and no sign or noise of wear of the bearing but as you can see in video the bearing was gone. I had to get a strut brace from scrap yard and the buddy gave me the whole kit with arms and all i took of the bearing of the scrap strut and it had exact same play on the bearing as my one thats why i was comparing two old bearings as the old strut on my car pinch bolt was stuck in i didnt bother trying to get it out instead i went and replaced it with another one from scrap. Thinking of replacing the rear bearings as well but ill leave that for another time

Thanks

 

[Stevey Y]

Hi I agree with Magnet there is no point in comparing second hand parts as you don't know the history of the scrap part, rule of thumb is that you should always use new parts when it comes to road parts bearings, suspension arms, shocks, as if any component suffers a catastrophic failure after fitting at least you have a come back against the company that supplied the item.

Wheel bearings these days are all pretty much sealed units and are pre loaded at the factory have no movement as the bearing inner is virtually an interference fit and any expansion through heat is already calculated, on old vehicles that used conical bearings you used to have a torque setting to bed the bearing into its running seat then you had to back the locking nut off a quarter of a turn to allow for the bearings heat expansion which gave it a small amount of end float when cold, they generally clapped out in record time but you could gain an extra few miles when worn by tightening them, then they would scream and howl when completely knackered, nowadays they just rumble.

Steve.

[demiari]

53 minutes ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi I agree with Magnet there is no point in comparing second hand parts as you don't know the history of the scrap part, rule of thumb is that you should always use new parts when it comes to road parts bearings, suspension arms, shocks, as if any component suffers a catastrophic failure after fitting at least you have a come back against the company that supplied the item.

Wheel bearings these days are all pretty much sealed units and are pre loaded at the factory have no movement as the bearing inner is virtually an interference fit and any expansion through heat is already calculated, on old vehicles that used conical bearings you used to have a torque setting to bed the bearing into its running seat then you had to back the locking nut off a quarter of a turn to allow for the bearings heat expansion which gave it a small amount of end float when cold, they generally clapped out in record time but you could gain an extra few miles when worn by tightening them, then they would scream and howl when completely knackered, nowadays they just rumble.

Steve.

In detail explaining thanks Stevey, and i agree with you on second hand parts, although the strut brace is the only scrap bit i used i took off all the arms and bearing of it and used my arms and replaced the bearing after noticing play on it, so with the new bearings in regards to audi c7 4g2 models torque it to 200nm plus 90° and leave it at that, no need to back the nut out quarter, is it silly if i went ahead and replaced the otherside bearing or would you leave it until humming noise becomes louder, i can barely hear the humming noise at 50km/h or at over 80km/h but it there very faint nothing concerning sometimes you think its the tyres grip but i do feel the grinding and when it comes to cars i like them to be top notch even slightest unusual noise would annoy me at first i thought it was the strut mounts thats how i ended up with broken pinch bolt but the mount were perfect it was the sway bar drop link that was knackered and making knuckles i have two spare strut mounts now

[Stevey Y]

Hi anything such as steering knuckles are always reusable as there is virtually nothing to wear them, anything with a rubber bush or ball joint is suspect second hand, with regard to the other bearing I would personally change it as if you start with two new bearings they wear as a pair, its false economy to change just one as if its sister bearing is noisy its safe to assume it won't be long before that one is knackered as well. Just torque the bolts to specified nm and leaves at that.

Regards Steve