Tstephen93 Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 Hi, wonder if someone can help. The rear brakes on my B8 3.0 TDI quattro seem to be sticking on. I can see the piston on both sides retract when I apply and release the brake which I believe would rule out sticking caliper. My question was whether or not the Electronic hand brake was releasing fully. After changing pads do you need to reset anything to tell the EPB that it has new pads? Been driving about now with binding brakes for too long now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevey Y Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 21 hours ago, Tstephen93 said: Hi, wonder if someone can help. The rear brakes on my B8 3.0 TDI quattro seem to be sticking on. I can see the piston on both sides retract when I apply and release the brake which I believe would rule out sticking caliper. My question was whether or not the Electronic hand brake was releasing fully. After changing pads do you need to reset anything to tell the EPB that it has new pads? Been driving about now with binding brakes for too long now Hi if whoever did the brake lining change did it correctly you put the EPB into pad service mode and when finished you take it out of service mode as long as the pistons were not wound in mechanicaly it should of been ok as when in service position the pistons are retracted to the start position for the new pads, therefore when taken out of pad service mode the piston moves ever so slightly forward, a few thou to accommodate the new linings. The only things to check are if the right pads were fitted and were the stainless steel runners for the pads replaced. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tstephen93 Posted May 8, 2021 Author Share Posted May 8, 2021 Thanks for the reply. I ordered these parts and fitted them but unfortunately nothing. Got a mate in to wind calipers back to test them again and they seem to be sticky. Sprayed some wd40 behind the gator and worked it in and out several times which seemed to free it up. No doubt only a temp fix though so looking like I'll need to bite the bullet and buy calipers. Looking on autodoc I've came across a company called Starks, has anyone had any experience with their parts? Around half the price for a caliper and motor with a 3 year warranty... Seems too good to be true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdragon Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 Silicone grease is a better choice if you lubricate them again. It sounds like you need to replace the guide rubbers (and probably the pins). Try this company: http://www.biggred.co.uk/ They have a shop on eBay too. I bought a pair front caliper repair kits (piston, giude rubbers, pins, seals etc.) from these guys to rebuild my B8. Quality parts and when doing the job I split a seal, and they sent me out another for next day delivery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevey Y Posted May 8, 2021 Share Posted May 8, 2021 14 hours ago, Tstephen93 said: Thanks for the reply. I ordered these parts and fitted them but unfortunately nothing. Got a mate in to wind calipers back to test them again and they seem to be sticky. Sprayed some wd40 behind the gator and worked it in and out several times which seemed to free it up. No doubt only a temp fix though so looking like I'll need to bite the bullet and buy calipers. Looking on autodoc I've came across a company called Starks, has anyone had any experience with their parts? Around half the price for a caliper and motor with a 3 year warranty... Seems too good to be true. Hi you can just buy the piston part of the calliper without the motor which is removable and it works out cheaper, yes Stark is a well respected parts manufacturer in Europe. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdragon Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 These guys are good too https://brakeparts.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tstephen93 Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 I've got a caliper repair kit that I'll re build them with when I get a spare minute providing they don't start binding again any time soon. The torx screws holding the motor on the caliper looked like they'd chew with any attempt at taking them off. Do I need vag com to bleed the brakes after I've finished or is just as simple as bleeding from furthest away to nearest the servo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevey Y Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 19 minutes ago, Tstephen93 said: I've got a caliper repair kit that I'll re build them with when I get a spare minute providing they don't start binding again any time soon. The torx screws holding the motor on the caliper looked like they'd chew with any attempt at taking them off. Do I need vag com to bleed the brakes after I've finished or is just as simple as bleeding from furthest away to nearest the servo? Hi you won't need vagcom to bleed them its as you say start at the furthest but I can highly recommend bleeding both at once as they will be on separate diagonal circuits so if you bleed them as a pair there is less chance of air swapping from one circuit to another. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tstephen93 Posted May 28, 2021 Author Share Posted May 28, 2021 So I bit the bullet and ordered calipers. Fitted them but rear brakes are still sticking. I put the handbrake on and off and every time I switch it off the rear wheels have a different tension. Some times it's like seized solid and other times it will move slightly. Anyone suffered this same thing or has anyone got any advice that may help? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevey Y Posted May 28, 2021 Share Posted May 28, 2021 18 hours ago, Tstephen93 said: So I bit the bullet and ordered calipers. Fitted them but rear brakes are still sticking. I put the handbrake on and off and every time I switch it off the rear wheels have a different tension. Some times it's like seized solid and other times it will move slightly. Anyone suffered this same thing or has anyone got any advice that may help? Thanks HI might be time to get on the Vagcom see whats coming up code wise and run a purge on the ABS unit as it sounds like air in there somewhere. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tstephen93 Posted July 29, 2021 Author Share Posted July 29, 2021 Finally got a mate to plug vag com in to the car, he flushed the brakes out and still no joy. Brakes still seem to be heating up more than the fronts even with short journeys. Almost at a loss with it. Don't know where to look next for finding the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevey Y Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 21 hours ago, Tstephen93 said: Finally got a mate to plug vag com in to the car, he flushed the brakes out and still no joy. Brakes still seem to be heating up more than the fronts even with short journeys. Almost at a loss with it. Don't know where to look next for finding the problem Hi when you put the new callipers on did you re do the adaptation process for them as this would cause the same symptoms where the body control module is not quite sure where the piston should be, from memory there is a youtube video on how this should be done. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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