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Posted

Engine coolant level warning light came on 4 weeks ago. The level dropped way below the minimum line. Topped it up with generic coolant from petrol station as that was the nearest garage. It’s now back to minimum 4 weeks later. And see video of hoses shaking vigorously at idle. Any suggestions on what could cause this would be appreciated. 


Posted

Hello Nick,

Thanks for being in touch with the forum. 
Did the car overheat or the temperature gauge go above normal when the car lost a reservoir full of coolant? 
The car obviously needs inspection to determine where your coolant is going - assuming you can’t see any visible evidence of a leak. 
One simply test you can do before entrusting the car to a trusted local garage, is to ensure the reservoir is topped up to the max. mark, before taking the car on a 10 mile run. Immediately on your return, rev. the car to a steady just-under-2000rpm, and observe whether there is any undue (white?) smoke from the exhaust. 
If this were mine, I would be booking this in without delay.

Perhaps you could let us know how you get on.

Kind regards,

Gareth. 
Take it it’s diesel?? 

Posted

Hi,

Thanks for replying. 
 

The temperature gauge stays at a constant 90.

No white smoke (as far as I’m aware).

When I open the bonnet after a drive it does feel warm but not sure if that is normal?

No leaks of coolant visible on my driveway. 
 

Do you know any recommended garages in Bedfordshire?

Thanks

Nick

Posted

Sorry Nick, I’m near Cardiff, but hopefully someone on here might be close enough to advise. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi Gareth no worries.

I took it to a VAG specialist today and they have advised it is the water pump and thermostat/ temperature control, does that make sense? Quoted £707 (4hrs labour and parts) to repair. 
 

Thanks

Nick

Posted

Hello Nick,

Are they saying the water pump is leaking then? This would surprise me on a 6 year old car, unless it’s covered a galaxial mileage. 
4 hours labour may equate to c £450, so the parts bill would be c £250 - which sounds high to me, but I may be out of touch. 
Can you confirm this is a diesel? 
If it is, then I would be tempted to look for a local diesel specialist and seek advice there. 
Finding a local diesel specialist? I have always advised asking at your local taxi rank, since these boys depend on a good service at a good price, and usually know who to avoid - which is half the battle! 
Hopefully, Steve on here will agree. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Posted

Hi Gareth, useful comments. 
 

No it’s a 2.0TFsi petrol Quattro. 2015, 46k miles. 30k of which were done in the past 26months. 
How can I contact Steve? Or how will he see this?

Thanks

Nick
 

Posted

Apologies Nick, but it just sounded like a diesel! -  that’s why I thought Stevey would concur with my suggestion of asking at your local taxi rank for local diesel specialists - obviously not the right route now for petrol then! 
Personally, I think you need to get some second/ third opinions on this before embarking on any dismantling and part changing. 
Do you have anyone who can provide you with any recommendations for a good local garage who you can actually talk with, rather than simply get a relayed message that ‘you need new components x&y’ ? 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Posted

Hi I think they are talking about the thermostatic shield on the water pump they are famous for sticking open and if they are changing the pump they will have to change the cam belt as a kit hence the price, better stuck open than shut and cooking the engine.

Steve.

Posted

Hi Steve, yes I believe that it was the thermostatic shield you mention. When I collected the car this evening
I did ask about changing the cam belt at the same time as I had read a recommendation to on Google. He said not required. 

I think I will look for a second opinion, just also conscious of driving it still! As I noticed the coolant level issue 2/3 weeks ago now. Do you think it’s okay to drive 35 mile round trip a day? 
 

Thanks

Nick 

Posted
On 5/19/2021 at 9:14 PM, Twisty24 said:

Hi Steve, yes I believe that it was the thermostatic shield you mention. When I collected the car this evening
I did ask about changing the cam belt at the same time as I had read a recommendation to on Google. He said not required. 

I think I will look for a second opinion, just also conscious of driving it still! As I noticed the coolant level issue 2/3 weeks ago now. Do you think it’s okay to drive 35 mile round trip a day? 
 

Thanks

Nick 

Hi Nick I would definitely get a second opinion as I know my guy got me to buy a new belt for one of my cabs even though it had only been on there for three weeks and the water pump had started leaking so that was being done under warranty by the supplier, its a bit like using brake pads that have only half worn on new discs.

When I bought my car the service history said it had been fitted with a new belt kit under warranty at 36k because of a squeaky idler pulley so they had fitted new pulley tensioner and belt as its good mechanical practise, as for the journey thats fine its stuck open not shut which would be a new world of problems.

Steve.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So both garages said the water pump was leaking so got that replaced. Both quoted within £50 of each other so was confident I wasn’t being overcharged. 
 

I asked both if the cam belt should be changed at the same time as I’ve read it’s cheaper to do it at the same time. But they didn’t say it needs doing. 
 

What are your thoughts on this? 
 

Audi A5 Quattro - 2015, 50,000miles. 
 

Thanks

Nick

Posted
8 minutes ago, Twisty24 said:

So both garages said the water pump was leaking so got that replaced. Both quoted within £50 of each other so was confident I wasn’t being overcharged. 
 

I asked both if the cam belt should be changed at the same time as I’ve read it’s cheaper to do it at the same time. But they didn’t say it needs doing. 
 

What are your thoughts on this? 
 

Audi A5 Quattro - 2015, 50,000miles. 
 

Thanks

Nick

Hi, I take it that the belt is the original, the old rule of thumb is to change the pump and timing belt kit at 80k or five years whichever occurs first using any car which is racking up milage it is pure common sense to change the belt and the pump at the same time especially as your belt kit is now getting on for six years old and the other thing is when fitted it all wears as a set, my car had a new belt kit fitted under warranty by the first owner at 36k they didn't change the pump so when the thermostatic shield started giving me problems I just got the whole lot changed at 82k, which I would of done anyway, in my personal opinion if the manufacturer says change due at over 100k! forget it most will never make it.

My company has a contract with another company that supplies onward transport for the owners of cars that have broken down and been recovered by the RAC and AA I did quite a few during the second lockdown and a good few of those were alleged premature cam belt failures before the manufacturers recommended milage, most people forget about the age factor as they choose to ignore it because its cheaper to do so, from experience a cam belt and water pump change a little early is a lot cheaper than an engine rebuild.

Steve.

  • Like 1

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