frenchhr Posted September 25, 2021 Posted September 25, 2021 I have a new battery and it charges at 14.10 to 14.5, and I’m not sure why this code keeps popping up. Address 61: Battery Regul. 2 Faults Found: 02479 - Partial Consumer Shut-Off Active 000 - - - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 7 Fault Frequency: 2 Mileage: 120761 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2012.02.21 Time: 17:33:18 02254 - Interface to Generator 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100100 Fault Priority: 4 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 192 Mileage: 120761 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2012.02.22 Time: 09:41:30
Magnet Posted September 26, 2021 Posted September 26, 2021 Hello Henry, Many thanks for being in touch, and apologies, since I’m not sure I can answer your question with a convincing explanation, but since no one else has been able to help so far, perhaps the following may be worth considering as a first point of searching:- I have concerns that your car is too old for this to apply, but certainly with later cars, the new battery has to be coded to the car, to ensure it recognises it is new, and does not treat it as it did with the old one. Long shot, but worth investigating? Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.
frenchhr Posted September 26, 2021 Author Posted September 26, 2021 Thanks for replying. The battery was coded with VCDS. I bought a new voltage regulator but that didn’t work…. I have to put the old one back on because the part is causing the alternator not to charge. The system charges at 14.1 to 14.3 but I still get the two codes.
Magnet Posted September 26, 2021 Posted September 26, 2021 Thanks Henry, I guess it would be a daft question to ask if you made sure the replacement battery was an exact specification replacement for the original supplied new with the car, rather than a like for like replacement for the one that you just replaced - assuming of course that the battery you just replaced was not the original? Kind regards, Gareth.
frenchhr Posted September 26, 2021 Author Posted September 26, 2021 The current battery is a $400 Bosch that met all the specs as the old one. The car sat for a few months before I bought it and the battery was completely dead.
Magnet Posted September 26, 2021 Posted September 26, 2021 Hello Henry, Sorry to be pedantic, but was defunct battery on the car, the original battery when the car was built? It sounds as if you matched the new Bosch battery to that which you found on the car, which isn’t necessarily good news, since people can put any old battery on a car when trading it in. All of this may be meaningless, but I always eliminate the basic things first, so if it were mine, I would be double checking the original specification for the car’s battery, to ensure you have the correct one. This doesn’t cost anything! Kind regards, Gareth.
frenchhr Posted September 27, 2021 Author Posted September 27, 2021 The battery was a AAA battery and not a Varta which should’ve been the original battery I think. I went to my local supplier that supplies German parts for a lot of San Diego auto shops. When I coded my battery to the car, the old battery I took out was never coded and had the original battery info still stored.
Magnet Posted September 27, 2021 Posted September 27, 2021 OK Henry. So you bought like for like against a non original battery then? As said, it would now be progressive if can confirm you have the correct specification against the original equipment battery. Well worth going through this process of elimination first. Kind regards, Gareth.
Stevey Y Posted September 27, 2021 Posted September 27, 2021 Hi, if you observe the date on the faults they are old, first question if you delete them do they come back?, if so its the body control module hanging on to redundant information, somewhere on VCDS there should be a BCM, BEM, reset the problem is that over time all these modules become crammed with redundant info and throw up erroneous codes, the only way round that is a reset, back to first base, alternatively if its not causing a problem and throwing up an EML leave it, I had the same problem with a Ford once but over four years and 200,000 miles the only person that knew the codes were there was me. Steve.
frenchhr Posted September 28, 2021 Author Posted September 28, 2021 Steve Y, Thanks for the reply. The codes are current and show old because I haven’t set the time and date yet. The codes do come back after they are cleared. Is the partial consumer shut off causing my driver’s side power seat and windshield wipers not the work? Thanks
Stevey Y Posted September 28, 2021 Posted September 28, 2021 2 hours ago, frenchhr said: Steve Y, Thanks for the reply. The codes are current and show old because I haven’t set the time and date yet. The codes do come back after they are cleared. Is the partial consumer shut off causing my driver’s side power seat and windshield wipers not the work? Thanks Hi yep any miss behaving component on the power supply will cause weird and Wonderfull problems with anything electrical, you say you have replaced the regulator and it did not work, I am thinking that this may be due to the new one needing re coding, think the old unit is at fault possibly, can you scan the old unit and retrieve the coding and make a record of that coding as that would give you a failsafe to fall back on, to be honest the electronics are very complex on these vehicles which started back in the nineties in an effort to curb home repairs as lets face it no one except Audi had access to the software required to perform any tasks. With the advent of VCDS/VAGCOM being available to the public they then had to find ways of still making repairs that much more difficult for the average DIY enthusiast, there have been posts on the net about people who have bypassed the energy monitor with great success until a couple of weeks later the alternator stops charging and the airbag light comes on because the Body control module can't read the pulse signals from the airbag module because the battery energy module has been bypassed, the whole thing is daisy chained together to stop anyone from removing components from the chain, sorry if this is not a very helpful reply but this is how they drag you to the nearest dealer kicking and screaming. Steve.
frenchhr Posted October 1, 2021 Author Posted October 1, 2021 Any of the malfunctioning modules the BCM?
Stevey Y Posted October 2, 2021 Posted October 2, 2021 Hi Henry sorry for the late reply, I think from the last post that the can gateway 19 is the cause of most of your troubles if thats out of kilter its a pandoras box there is information on the Ross tech forum its via some American guy who has the same list virtually as your self it involves reprogramming the offending modules using a binary formula for the codes to get the can gateway back on side it may well be worth a read, I did try to understand it more but over lengthy perusal I realised it was a little over my pay grade, if your VCDS is genuine it may well be worth flying the question on the Ross Tech forum, they cited 07 as being the electric seat module failure. Steve.
Stevey Y Posted October 2, 2021 Posted October 2, 2021 5 minutes ago, frenchhr said: Thanks Steve! No worries just sorry I can't be of more help I think this problem is going to need a ton of research to peel away the layers to get at the root of the problem, I blame CARB they started this rollercoaster, Lol. Steve.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now