P2565 - Audi A3 BNM 170bhp

[ash_BNM]

Hello all,

 

I am hoping somebody will be able to point me in the right direction.

 

The car in question, my first Audi, an A3 with the BNM 170bhp engine.

 

I get a very jumpy first gear when taking of however I noticed if stay in say 3^rd gear and keep driving with throttle steady, I am able to hear the turbo dumping boost and then building up again and then dumping every few seconds.

 

The only code I have on is P2565 – Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit High – Short to Plus.

 

Many thanks in advance

 Ash

[cliffcoggin]

The two problems may not be related. I have the same car as you and the clutch sometimes snatches as it engages from stationary, but once it has engaged power transmission is smooth. Does that sound like your take off fault?

[Stevey Y]

4 hours ago, ash_BNM said:

Hello all,

 

I am hoping somebody will be able to point me in the right direction.

 

The car in question, my first Audi, an A3 with the BNM 170bhp engine.

 

I get a very jumpy first gear when taking of however I noticed if stay in say 3^rd gear and keep driving with throttle steady, I am able to hear the turbo dumping boost and then building up again and then dumping every few seconds.

 

The only code I have on is P2565 – Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit High – Short to Plus.

 

Many thanks in advance

 Ash

Hi its the turbo position sensor which is on top of the turbo this sends messages to the ECU so it can fine tune the amount of boost to the engine at any given time, this sensor gets to control the vanes on the turbo but if the vanes are sticking it will struggle to open and close them and increases its voltage [circuit to high] to try to achieve optimum position, try giving it a can of Lucas EGR and turbo cleaner to free the vanes up.

Steve.

[ash_BNM]

Good afternoon Steve, 

Thanks for your reply. 

It does sound like either the actuator isn't working and just opening and closing or the vanes are blocked and the car is constantly trying to open and close.

Are these manually adjustable like normal actuators?

I remember my vauxhall actuator had to manually tighten the actuator bolt as it was constantly losing boost.

Thanks.

 

[Stevey Y]

35 minutes ago, ash_BNM said:

Good afternoon Steve, 

Thanks for your reply. 

It does sound like either the actuator isn't working and just opening and closing or the vanes are blocked and the car is constantly trying to open and close.

Are these manually adjustable like normal actuators?

I remember my vauxhall actuator had to manually tighten the actuator bolt as it was constantly losing boost.

Thanks.

 

Hi there is no manual adjustment, try the cleaner first and if that won't work its the unit itself, from what I remember they look like a one piece unit with the manifold but I know you can buy repair cores and actuators separately to rebuild your unit, the bit I remember in Technicolor is that they are a real mission to remove the old unit.

Steve.

[ash_BNM]

3 hours ago, cliffcoggin said:

The two problems may not be related. I have the same car as you and the clutch sometimes snatches as it engages from stationary, but once it has engaged power transmission is smooth. Does that sound like your take off fault?

Yep two separate issues definitely.

One the gearbox is melted chocolate by the way it engages 1st gear but rest of the gears are super smooth.

2nd like engine issue.

[ash_BNM]

Just now, ash_BNM said:

Yep two separate issues definitely.

One the gearbox is melted chocolate by the way it engages 1st gear but rest of the gears are super smooth.

2nd like engine issue.

Thanks Steve.

It's defo worth a shot of EGR and Turbo cleaner. Will head out to euro tommorow and also taking a drive to Leicester now in the hope it frees up the vanes.

 

[Stevey Y]

10 minutes ago, ash_BNM said:

Thanks Steve.

It's defo worth a shot of EGR and Turbo cleaner. Will head out to euro tommorow and also taking a drive to Leicester now in the hope it frees up the vanes.

 

Hi I hope it works for you as its definitely the cheaper option, let us know how you get on.

Steve.

[ash_BNM]

12 hours ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi I hope it works for you as its definitely the cheaper option, let us know how you get on.

Steve.

Had a good play on the motorway but still the same.

I noticed the glowplug light seems to keep flashing and also had low pressure warning on the instrument screen.

Also found this so might help to see if vanes are sticking or not. https://youtu.be/PeXINaXro8k

I got my mates vagcom dongle now so will try doing some test with that too 🙂

It seems the 1st gear almost hit a brick wall feeling when taking off is related to the engine running as when on idle or when driving steady on any gear I can almost feel the kangaroo effect.

Hopefully my dsg is all ok.

Will update soon.

 

 

[ash_BNM]

Hello Steve,

Many thanks for all your help. I have just found the issue may not be related to the vane as it seems to be moving with actuator continuously this also explains the  as per attached video.

Whilst this is moving up and down if I disconnect one of the hoses then it stops moving.

Is it normal for actuator to do this on idle?

also if I disconnect one of the sensor on the right hand side the moving stops too which I have taking a pic off.

Could this sensor be the main issue?

 

Edited November 13, 2021 by ash_BNM

[Stevey Y]

Hi if the actuator stops moving when the pipes from the sensors are disconnected  that would indicate that the sensors are indeed working, but in saying that the MK4 MONDEO had the same set up but the sensors degrade over time and struggle to work, the actuator won't be moving at idle as there is no requirement for boost until the revs rise, easy way to test actuator is to get an assistant to turn the ignition to position two while you watch, it should move to its start position.

I am glad you have use of VCDS as some codes may well unravel some of your problems.

Steve.

[ash_BNM]

33 minutes ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi if the actuator stops moving when the pipes from the sensors are disconnected  that would indicate that the sensors are indeed working, but in saying that the MK4 MONDEO had the same set up but the sensors degrade over time and struggle to work, the actuator won't be moving at idle as there is no requirement for boost until the revs rise, easy way to test actuator is to get an assistant to turn the ignition to position two while you watch, it should move to its start position.

I am glad you have use of VCDS as some codes may well unravel some of your problems.

Steve.

Hi Steve,

With all sensors connected and hoses connected, should the actuator move like this in the video on idle continuously?

If I disconnect a hose then it stops going up and down.

I can hear the car hunting when this actuator is going up and down.

Thanks again.

[ash_BNM]

Any vagcom experts here?

After spending half of my Sunday diagnosing

My N95 valve is continuously opening and closing actuator.

Voltage seem to go up and down whilst it opens and closes, when I run a VCDS output test in the valve, it goes steady at just over 1v and actuator stops moving.

I am at a lost cause and thinking of moving back to vauxhall! Haha

 

 

[Stevey Y]

Hi thats cracked it, 

Just looked and that is your problem if you plumb in to google the part number on your original unit it will come up with loads of them apparently VW use the same unit and its called N75 that is definitely your problem as the solenoid is not holding pressure which is why the actuator is bouncing up and down, just mark the pipes 1-2-3 when you take them off and put a mark diametrically on the old unit for reference, don't go back to Vauxhall otherwise you will be on Valium for the rest of your life

Steve.

[Stevey Y]

Hi a top of the range pierburg unit on eBay is only about £40, happy hunting.

Steve.

[ash_BNM]

2 hours ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi thats cracked it, 

Just looked and that is your problem if you plumb in to google the part number on your original unit it will come up with loads of them apparently VW use the same unit and its called N75 that is definitely your problem as the solenoid is not holding pressure which is why the actuator is bouncing up and down, just mark the pipes 1-2-3 when you take them off and put a mark diametrically on the old unit for reference, don't go back to Vauxhall otherwise you will be on Valium for the rest of your life

Steve.

 

2 hours ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi a top of the range pierburg unit on eBay is only about £40, happy hunting.

Steve.

Hello Steve,

Only me again and part ordered with a wish it fixes this problem. 

Worth a shot anyway as looking at the current one it may even be the original looking at the date code on that. 

Part ordered and for anyone else looking for this valve, it's the Pierburg N75 - Part number -  7.00868.02.0 to replace OEM part 1J0 906 627 B or 1K0 906 627

Let's see if we have finally cracked this issue!

A pub crawl with unlimited pints on me Steve!

[Stevey Y]

19 hours ago, ash_BNM said:

 

Hello Steve,

Only me again and part ordered with a wish it fixes this problem. 

Worth a shot anyway as looking at the current one it may even be the original looking at the date code on that. 

Part ordered and for anyone else looking for this valve, it's the Pierburg N75 - Part number -  7.00868.02.0 to replace OEM part 1J0 906 627 B or 1K0 906 627

Let's see if we have finally cracked this issue!

A pub crawl with unlimited pints on me Steve!

Hi thank you, I am pretty sure once the new part is fitted you will be swimming in the sweet smell of success let us know how you get on, I had one of those apart once out of boredom they are basically a diaphragm with a pressure sensitive film running down the middle, good idea in principle but when living in a superheated environment the plastic membrane becomes brittle and won't work, I sincerely hope that fixes it then we can move on the gear box issue.

Steve.

[ash_BNM]

Hello Steve,

I got the N95 part, fitted it, to our not so good news, still exact same fault.

Do you think this has something to do with the swirlflaps?

Something even on idle is causing the actuator to open and close moving the VANES open and close.

The opening and closing of the VANES is mirroring when i go in drive and start driving, as even when driving, i can hear the VANES open and close every 5 seconds.

I am now looking at swirlflaps, the vac pipe sensor at the front of the engine which has a plastic rod going into the timing belt area(what is this)

It is really strange how nobody has posted anything about this fault code even on google.

There must be some BNM engine gurus out here who could help.

Thank you for all your help.

Ash

[Stevey Y]

Hi sorry it did not work, swirl flaps are as bad as EGR valves for going wrong the actuator is on the inlet manifold and I know because its all plastic they wear or break, I have seen videos about repair/ delete kits, only one other question is did you look at doing an adaptation on the new valve with the vids.

Steve.

[ash_BNM]

On 11/17/2021 at 6:19 PM, Stevey Y said:

Hi sorry it did not work, swirl flaps are as bad as EGR valves for going wrong the actuator is on the inlet manifold and I know because its all plastic they wear or break, I have seen videos about repair/ delete kits, only one other question is did you look at doing an adaptation on the new valve with the vids.

Steve.

Hello Steve,

I think I have finally cracked this.

Should the actuator hold pressure?

I also have a 140bhp golf which has been sitting on my drive for over a year and I have only realise these two engines share similar design and also the BKD manifold from there could be used in my BNM engine as an updated de-swirled manifold 🙂

[Stevey Y]

19 hours ago, ash_BNM said:

Hello Steve,

I think I have finally cracked this.

Should the actuator hold pressure?

I also have a 140bhp golf which has been sitting on my drive for over a year and I have only realise these two engines share similar design and also the BKD manifold from there could be used in my BNM engine as an updated de-swirled manifold 🙂

 

Hi I believe it should hold pressure, they are not the strongest of set ups and it won't take a hell of a lot to jam the flaps up, I did a manifold on an old Vectra once and GM to their credit had made the flaps and drive assembly from metal but the crud had terminated it, so we cleaned it up and set them to the optimum position with a delete kit fitted, jammed open, it ran like a Swiss Watch, the flaps are only there to make the air intake charge more turbulent as the engine revs increase so when the injection cycle starts the fuel hits the cyclone of air and mixes more efficiently, in saying that some MK4/5 Titanium Sport Mondeos had them and they gave no end of grief, fortunately the one I bought was a later model and was not fitted with them and it still ran like an unmarked missile, those who knew said Ford had got bored with the warranty claims.

Steve.

[ash_BNM]

On 11/19/2021 at 7:32 PM, Stevey Y said:

Hi I believe it should hold pressure, they are not the strongest of set ups and it won't take a hell of a lot to jam the flaps up, I did a manifold on an old Vectra once and GM to their credit had made the flaps and drive assembly from metal but the crud had terminated it, so we cleaned it up and set them to the optimum position with a delete kit fitted, jammed open, it ran like a Swiss Watch, the flaps are only there to make the air intake charge more turbulent as the engine revs increase so when the injection cycle starts the fuel hits the cyclone of air and mixes more efficiently, in saying that some MK4/5 Titanium Sport Mondeos had them and they gave no end of grief, fortunately the one I bought was a later model and was not fitted with them and it still ran like an unmarked missile, those who knew said Ford had got bored with the warranty claims.

Steve.

Afternoon all,

Guess the problem of that fualt code is long gone!!!

Managed to source an actuator and changed.

The car now behaves and no longer have the kangaroo effect.

New problem now is that I am getting a owl sound (police siren) noise when it's spooling up and when on boost it is nowhere near speedy as it was.

Does this mean the actuator is set too loose and needs tightening or does it need loosening?

So happy!!!!!

Once again thank you for all your help.

[Stevey Y]

20 hours ago, ash_BNM said:

Afternoon all,

Guess the problem of that fualt code is long gone!!!

Managed to source an actuator and changed.

The car now behaves and no longer have the kangaroo effect.

New problem now is that I am getting a owl sound (police siren) noise when it's spooling up and when on boost it is nowhere near speedy as it was.

Does this mean the actuator is set too loose and needs tightening or does it need loosening?

So happy!!!!!

Once again thank you for all your help.

Hi that one, tighten /loosen will be a trial and error job, my guess would be mark the current position on the nut and the body and try a full turn either way, and at least you will have a point of reference if one way will not improve your situation. 

Steve.

[ash_BNM]

3 hours ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi that one, tighten /loosen will be a trial and error job, my guess would be mark the current position on the nut and the body and try a full turn either way, and at least you will have a point of reference if one way will not improve your situation. 

Steve.

Some complicated way of setting actuator on this model.

Instead of the traditional two nuts in-between the control arm, it has the one bolt and a round spinny thing in the middle. 

Such a pain as the whole actuator has to come off if I'm adjusting it with the turbo still on the car.

Does anybody know the exact setting for configuring this actuator on the BNM?

[ash_BNM]

So after fighting with this fault, I finally got somewhere but still not sorted.

 

Replaced N95 valve same problem.

Replaced actuator as wasn't holding with my vac tester so now holding vac using vac tester and found fault but slightly different.

Adjusted actuator, same issue again different pattern of glow plug light flashing so then went and adjusted again but this time I done it using the vac tester using the following :-

Vac tester connected to actuator and saw actuator started moving at 10hg and didn't hit full open until 25hg

Adjusted actuator so it started moving at 4hg and stopped at around 18-20hg and now the light is gone but comes on intermittently but I now have good boost and car runs ALOT smoother!

I reckon a bit more tweaking and this fault is now solved.

I don't know how to read the voltage readings on the vcds for the actuator so if anybody knows how I can get this actuator spot on then please let me know.

Thanks all.