Vagfan Posted November 21, 2021 Author Posted November 21, 2021 Stagn8, thanks for your reply. I'm in west Sussex north of Worthing and if I can find someone trustworthy who can test as you describe I will certainly do so. I think that I have to give GCS an opportunity to reply and suggest a way forward that is acceptable to both parties and I will attempt to do this tomorrow. I do not want this episode to sour my liking for the car,but by 'eck, it's pushing me to fix and sell and go back to something simpler until we're in a position to afford an electric car. My wife, while well aware of my condition, is not understanding my frustration at paying out a lot of money for a part they recommended, supplied and fitted, only for it to fail 38 months down the line...."it's just a lump of metal, get it fixed and we'll decide what to do with it afterwards...." missing the point a bit. However, she runs the finances so that's what we'll end up doing. Might feel differently when she sees the bill eating into the savings she is desperate to maintain..... What should I be looking for regarding an auto electrician, any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Stagn8 Posted November 21, 2021 Posted November 21, 2021 Finding decent and honest traders can be taxing. I am new to Audi (have been Japanese before and of course they don’t breakdown 😁😁) so did spend time sourcing an independent with plenty of a five star reviews before splashing the cash. Any decent trader won’t mind having his/her customers giving feedback via a review site, of course you have to find your way through the people with an axe to grind but that is the best I can suggest. Luckily I have a shop fairly close by which has been in business for many, many years, bit of a rough diamond but gives it to you straight ‘ you do realise this is Chinese donkey doo don’t you, I’ll repair it for you but don’t bring it back when it breaks again will you’ being typical, though of course far more colourful. Salt of the earth as they say, was also training up an apprentice to carry things on so a grand fella all round. As to electric, I’m hoping to bypass that and go straight to hydrogen when government and manufacturers finally get their heads looking in the right direction. Mind you I think there will be enough ICE cars around to last me until the DVLA wrest my driving license from my hands. I tow a largish caravan so electric makes no sense to me and even when it becomes a possibility it will beyond my income!!
Magnet Posted November 21, 2021 Posted November 21, 2021 Hello Ian, I can certainly understand your frustration, but in reality (at least as I see it - and I’m open to contradiction) - any replacement vehicle component (including a main dealer part) will be guaranteed for 1 year, unless stated otherwise. Yes I know the original parts can last a decade plus, but that’s the reality. I would also agree that a genuine replacement VAG component would be expected (in caps) to last longer than 3 years, but you don’t even know if you have a genuine VAG alternator - my guess is you don’t, but……. I’m very much with Keith on the benefits of getting an original component reconditioned by a specialist, where possible, rather than dipping your toe into the comparative unknown of the aftermarket world. Yes, by all means, vent your frustration at the garage, if that is really what you want to do, but I would be prepared for disappointment, and let’s hope that I’m wrong. Of course, you have the alternative viewpoint of your wife who seems to be saying to put it down to bad experience and move on after 3 years. Only you know what is best for you, and I genuinely hope you will get something worthwhile out of it for your efforts. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Ian. Kind regards, Gareth.
Vagfan Posted November 21, 2021 Author Posted November 21, 2021 I will certainly keep you posted. I'm going to try my local garage who have been pretty straight with me though the years various cars if I get no joy with GCS.We have a backup car (2001 rover 25, simple and reliable as ****) so can have the audi off the road for as long as it takes to resolve. Thanks to all for your comments and advice, I will post as and when things happen. Cheers. 1
Vagfan Posted November 22, 2021 Author Posted November 22, 2021 Afternoon everyone, update time. I have spoken to the people at GCS and they have said after I described the problem and symptoms that a likely (but not definite) cause of my woes could be water ingress in to the cabin. They say there are delicate electronics under the drivers seat and that there maybe water sloshing around, which could account for the right turn/left turn on/off charge warning light issue and to get the car to them. Apparently the scuttle drain gets blocked be leaves and debris causing water to enter the cabin somewhere near the pollen filter. I was aware of this problem with my old 100 2.2e that I had some 12 years ago and assumed that this sort of thing had since been rectified by VW but apparently not. They have 3 other VAG cars in at the moment with just this issue and don't know when they can get to do mine. I seem to recall from this very forum some years back that the flooding is caused by a 'duckbill drain' (?) in the plenum chamber under the scuttle and several posters recommended removing it permanently, thereby resolving the issue going forward. Have I recalled this correctly?
Vagfan Posted November 22, 2021 Author Posted November 22, 2021 Addendum: opposite our driveway is a sloped turnaround which I use when swapping the cars around and have noticed that after heavy or moderate rainfall when on the slope a quantity of water drains out of the front(ish) of the car while it is on the slope. Coincidence or something relevant?
Stagn8 Posted November 22, 2021 Posted November 22, 2021 Definitely a runner of an idea, although I don’t have any electronics under my seat! It is cabriolet though so a sensible idea. I think my Rover 75 had exactly the same problem, also with a duck bill tube. The duck bill tube is soft rubber/plastic with one end bought together a bit like the end of a balloon. The Rover one exited in the wheel arch so the duck bill stopped water entering but of course if it fills up with gunge then it can’t clear and leads to the aforementioned flooding. A good but flawed design. Fingers crossed that is the problem, cheap fix if nothing has been damaged under the seat. Also a timely reminder to us all to keep the scuttle clear of debris as Autumn is well under way with lots of leaves. You now have a couple of easy checks to make, gunge in the scuttle and water under your seat!! Justpopping out to check mine 😂😂.
Vagfan Posted November 29, 2021 Author Posted November 29, 2021 VAfternoon everyone, update time. I have spoken to the people at GCS and they have said after I described the problem and symptoms that a likely (but not definite) cause of my woes could be water ingress in to the cabin. They say there are delicate electronics under the drivers seat and that there maybe water sloshing around, which could account for the right turn/left turn on/off charge warning light issue and to get the car to them. Apparently the scuttle drain gets blocked be leaves and debris causing water to enter the cabin somewhere near the pollen filter. I was aware of this problem with my old 100 2.2e that I had some 12 years ago and assumed that this sort of thing had since been rectified by VW but apparently not. They have 3 other VAG cars in at the moment with just this issue and don't know when they can get to do mine. I seem to recall from this very forum some years back that the flooding is caused by a 'duckbill drain' (?) in the plenum chamber under the scuttle and several posters recommended removing it permanently, thereby resolving the issue going forward. Have I recalled this correctly?
Vagfan Posted November 29, 2021 Author Posted November 29, 2021 Oops sorry chaps, that posted twice. Here is the real update as of 13.00 today (Monday). GCS have contacted me, the alternator is putting out 11.7v and is kaput, it's a Lucas and they recommend replacing it with another Lucas, which comes with a year or 12000 warranty. With the investigation to check water ingress the bill will be about 700 quid. Fine......cos as of the 1st Feb '22 it's up for sale. We are on pensions and even with my old part job back, we cannot justify £200+ a year for the privilege of having a functioning alternator, never mind road tax of £51.18 a month hell, I've bought cars and ran them for 3 years for less than that. The MoT is due December and that's going to be 400+ for the front upper suspension links, NOT including the osf jacking point welding. Fun fact, a few years back, after replacing the upper suspension links on my old Passat TWICE (cos the fitter split the gaiters on the first set when fitting and the tester failed it the next year.....ffs), I bought a Volvo 940 turbo,changed my handle to 'no more VW' and joined a Volvo forum.......why in hell's name I didn't listen to my own advice I have no idea, when my brother waved the allroad in front of my wife, she said "oo that looks nice" and there you go..... So to recap, any VAG car that's less than 20 odd years old will most definitely NOT get as much as a second glance.......although bruv has a VR6 (VR5? all wheel drive) Golf sitting on his drive.......no, no, NO, I must resist.......but it's quite old and therefore in my opinion, likely to be better quality, I don't know, answers on a postcard. So there we are. Ta to all who replied with advice and commiserations.
Vagfan Posted November 29, 2021 Author Posted November 29, 2021 Oh, PS, I've told them when they check for water ingress to remove the rubber flap valve thingy from the drain point in the plenum chamber regardless of whether it's a problem or not, at least the next owner won't have that to worry about!!!
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