metal clunk noise going over bumps in the road, where to look?

[arron1995]

so recently i have noticed that when i hit a bump in the road, I hear what sounds to me like two bits of metal hitting each other.

I have replaced the drop links and they did have more play than they should have but it hasn't fixed the issue.

when i had the car up in the air, i grabbed a hold of the tie rod ends and i could turn them enough that they would make a clang, surely this is not normal?

does anyone have any suggestions, thanks.

 

[cliffcoggin]

No it is not normal. Any of the suspension or steering joints that have any slack whatsoever need to be replaced.

Look too for broken springs, a loose steering rack, loose wheel bearings, and loose wheel nuts.

[arron1995]

10 hours ago, cliffcoggin said:

No it is not normal. Any of the suspension or steering joints that have any slack whatsoever need to be replaced.

Look too for broken springs, a loose steering rack, loose wheel bearings, and loose wheel nuts.

Springs, and wheel nuts are fine from what I can see, wheels are torqued to 120nm. I’m not sure how to check for rack play, I need to take it to my mechanic but he’s super busy and I’m not one for trusting too many people, so like to stick to who I know. 

 

I have a video of the noise I mentioned, il attach the video and if you could give me some feedback that would be helpful, cheers.

[Magnet]

Hello Arron,

Thanks for being in touch. Anti roll bar links are usually the first and easy target to suspect, but you have eliminated those - subject to them still being serviceable. The possibility of springs breaking within the spring cup should also not be ignored. Have you checked all wishbone bushes for splitting, wear and movement? The list could go on, but I’m sure you will appreciate that it will be virtually impossible for anyone to source this noise without actually inspecting the car. 
Personally, I would discount any connection with the steering rack and the rotational movement you show, until I had eliminated all other possibilities. 
Only trusting one mechanic is not good news, and if you stick with that view, you are quite likely to find yourself in dire straights at some point, where you will have an immobile car because he has such a backlog. Having faith in one mechanic is good, have total dependence on him is bad news. 
Have you already booked it in with him, for some point in the future? 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

[arron1995]

32 minutes ago, Magnet said:

Hello Arron,

Thanks for being in touch. Anti roll bar links are usually the first and easy target to suspect, but you have eliminated those - subject to them still being serviceable. The possibility of springs breaking within the spring cup should also not be ignored. Have you checked all wishbone bushes for splitting, wear and movement? The list could go on, but I’m sure you will appreciate that it will be virtually impossible for anyone to source this noise without actually inspecting the car. 
Personally, I would discount any connection with the steering rack and the rotational movement you show, until I had eliminated all other possibilities. 
Only trusting one mechanic is not good news, and if you stick with that view, you are quite likely to find yourself in dire straights at some point, where you will have an immobile car because he has such a backlog. Having faith in one mechanic is good, have total dependence on him is bad news. 
Have you already booked it in with him, for some point in the future? 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Somehow I have lost my wheel locking nut which isn’t good news, I’ve told him I’m going to sort that first then be in touch with him, I’ve tried to have a look myself but only have axle stands it’s quite hard, nothing seemed out of the ordinary but Il have to let him take a look.

[Magnet]

Should be able to get the correct replacement locking wheel nut remover at your nearest dealer by giving them the VIN. 

[arron1995]

20 minutes ago, Magnet said:

Should be able to get the correct replacement locking wheel nut remover at your nearest dealer by giving them the VIN. 

Spot on pal, il give them a try

[cliffcoggin]

8 hours ago, arron1995 said:

I have a video of the noise I mentioned, il attach the video and if you could give me some feedback that would be helpful, cheers.

IMG_1064.MOV

Sorry Aaron. I will not download files from strangers. If you could post it on a public platform I'd be happy to listen to it.

[cliffcoggin]

Don't be too sure the springs are unbroken until you have jacked the car high enough to allow the springs to fully expand, then inspect the ends where they sit in steel cups.

The steering joints and suspension joints can be checked if you can put the car over an inspection pit for access to the underside while the weight is on the wheels. I somehow doubt that you have a pit available.

[arron1995]

3 hours ago, cliffcoggin said:

Don't be too sure the springs are unbroken until you have jacked the car high enough to allow the springs to fully expand, then inspect the ends where they sit in steel cups.

The steering joints and suspension joints can be checked if you can put the car over an inspection pit for access to the underside while the weight is on the wheels. I somehow doubt that you have a pit available.

im not sure if you watched the video i posted, the noise in the video sounds like its coming from the inner tie rod, but unsure if thats the noise im hearing when i go over bumps, i need to get my wheel locking nut sorted then go from there.

 

edit- no problem bud, i thought it would be viewable without downloading, il upload it to youtube for you.

[arron1995]

3 hours ago, cliffcoggin said:

Sorry Aaron. I will not download files from strangers. If you could post it on a public platform I'd be happy to listen to it.

here is the video on youtube mate

 

[cliffcoggin]

I see and hear it now Aaron. You should be able to twist the rod, (that's what the ball in the joint is for,) but only with difficulty, and certainly not with any noise, so I'd say that joint is clapped out, which means its partner on the other side is probably not much better.

Given how bad that one is, it would be worth testing every steering and suspension joint as I mentioned earlier. Get somebody to wriggle the steering wheel to and fro while you feel every joint with your fingers for play. You might be able to hear some knocking but feeling them is more sensitive to tiny amounts of movement.

[arron1995]

7 hours ago, cliffcoggin said:

I see and hear it now Aaron. You should be able to twist the rod, (that's what the ball in the joint is for,) but only with difficulty, and certainly not with any noise, so I'd say that joint is clapped out, which means its partner on the other side is probably not much better.

Given how bad that one is, it would be worth testing every steering and suspension joint as I mentioned earlier. Get somebody to wriggle the steering wheel to and fro while you feel every joint with your fingers for play. You might be able to hear some knocking but feeling them is more sensitive to tiny amounts of movement.

That tie rod is the video is the passenger side too which when I’m driving the noise sounds like it’s coming from the drivers side. but we will have to see when I take it to the mechanic and go from there, thanks for the help bud.

fingers crossed it’s not the rack. 

[Magnet]

Hello again Arron,

The rod you refer to is a track rod and not a ‘tie’ rod, and as mentioned before, rotational movement is necessary at that point. 
If this suspected source of the noise was indeed correct, then you would be expecting to feel this at the steering wheel ( and you don’t mention you do) and the extent of noise should be influenced by turning the wheel slightly as the noise occurs ( again you don’t mention it does).

This car is trying to tel you something. When have you got it booked in for? 
Kind regards, 

Gareth. 

[arron1995]

17 minutes ago, Magnet said:

Hello again Arron,

The rod you refer to is a track rod and not a ‘tie’ rod, and as mentioned before, rotational movement is necessary at that point. 
If this suspected source of the noise was indeed correct, then you would be expecting to feel this at the steering wheel ( and you don’t mention you do) and the extent of noise should be influenced by turning the wheel slightly as the noise occurs ( again you don’t mention it does).

This car is trying to tel you something. When have you got it booked in for? 
Kind regards, 

Gareth. 

There is 100% a noise from that area, wether it’s the ball joint or from the rack im not sure as the noise occurs when I turn it side to side, I can’t hear any noise when I turn the steering wheel or atleast not the same metal on metal noise, need to ring my mechanic today and see when he can squeeze me in.

[arron1995]

22 hours ago, cliffcoggin said:

Don't be too sure the springs are unbroken until you have jacked the car high enough to allow the springs to fully expand, then inspect the ends where they sit in steel cups.

The steering joints and suspension joints can be checked if you can put the car over an inspection pit for access to the underside while the weight is on the wheels. I somehow doubt that you have a pit available.

talking about springs, thought id have another look, i can rotate the spring side to side on the drivers side and it clangs, passenger side one moves a little but nowhere near as bad, ive uploaded it here

 

[cliffcoggin]

Being able to move the spring a little is meaningless while it is not under load. You need to look right up into the top of its mounting to see if it is broken, and if you can not see the top end well enough then the whole strut will need to be removed for inspection.

[arron1995]

16 minutes ago, cliffcoggin said:

Being able to move the spring a little is meaningless while it is not under load. You need to look right up into the top of its mounting to see if it is broken, and if you can not see the top end well enough then the whole strut will need to be removed for inspection.

a little? its clanging when i move it, the other side doesnt do it at all, surely not normal?

[cliffcoggin]

That's probably because it is broken, but unless you confirm that either by removing it or looking up into the end, it is merely supposition.

[Stevey Y]

4 hours ago, arron1995 said:

a little? its clanging when i move it, the other side doesnt do it at all, surely not normal?

Hi your tie rods are definitely knackered thats because the ball on the inner end sits in a nylon cup which when worn will allow metal to metal contact, these units screw into the end  of the rack and are cheap to buy and replace and no you should not be able to rotate the spring even when jacked up, looking at the pictures the sprig pan on the shock looks well corroded and will eventually collapse, the term tie rod is the correct one which is frequently confused with the track rod end which is the threaded bit that goes into the ball joint so you can adjust the toe in/out on the wheels.

Steve.

[Magnet]

Hello Steve,

For what difference it makes, can we disagree on the terminology? The track rod end fits onto the end of (guess what?) the track rod! 
It wouldn’t surprise me that Arron has a broken spring - but there again, it’s all guesswork without thoroughly inspecting the car. 
It’s all good stuff! 

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

[arron1995]

1 hour ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi your tie rods are definitely knackered thats because the ball on the inner end sits in a nylon cup which when worn will allow metal to metal contact, these units screw into the end  of the rack and are cheap to buy and replace and no you should not be able to rotate the spring even when jacked up, looking at the pictures the sprig pan on the shock looks well corroded and will eventually collapse, the term tie rod is the correct one which is frequently confused with the track rod end which is the threaded bit that goes into the ball joint so you can adjust the toe in/out on the wheels.

Steve.

Hi Steve is the spring section you’re on about that’s corroded the bottom part just under the spring? Does look a bit bashed up doesn’t it, only just realised you mentioned it. So realistically I’m looking at a few bits that want changing. 
 

also which bit did you mean needs replacing on the track rod/tie rod whichever one it is? The nylon bit inside? Or the end itself.

 

[cliffcoggin]

Track rod and tie rod are the respective British and American terms for the same thing.

I doubt I shall comment further in this topic as I seem to be repeating myself to no effect.

[Stevey Y]

15 hours ago, cliffcoggin said:

Track rod and tie rod are the respective British and American terms for the same thing.

I doubt I shall comment further in this topic as I seem to be repeating myself to no effect.

Hi Cliff, try Googling in track rod and I guarantee it will come up with the ball joint assembly, tie rods or rack ends is the term used over the last thirty years I have been working on any car, I only know one American, my brother in law.

[Stevey Y]

17 hours ago, arron1995 said:

Hi Steve is the spring section you’re on about that’s corroded the bottom part just under the spring? Does look a bit bashed up doesn’t it, only just realised you mentioned it. So realistically I’m looking at a few bits that want changing. 
 

also which bit did you mean needs replacing on the track rod/tie rod whichever one it is? The nylon bit inside? Or the end itself.

 

Hi the tie rod comes as a sealed unit but it would probably be wise to change the Ball/End assembly where it joins the hub, with regard to the spring pans you will have to change the shocks or eventually the old pan will collapse and the spring launches down the shock and the spring end will machine the wheel and tyre to death, I know as I have experienced this disaster personally.

Steve.