⭐️RESOLVED - Flashing glow plug warning; limp home mode; check engine light; DPF symbol​ 🤨

[Stevey Y]

1 minute ago, gsmdo said:

Thanks, Steve - that's exactly what I had planned.

To go back to an earlier point you made - did you mean to buy a length of silicone hose (with the correct OS diameters) to replace the pipe, or just a section to fit into the bottom joint? 🤔

Hi just the section where the pipe joins the turbo, on another tangent you described an induction roar when accelerating , a split boost hose between the turbo and the intercooler would make the same noise as its loosing boost pressure which will put it in to limp as its also classed as an air leak  within the code you have its one of those lousy generic codes that covers a multitude of things. have a look at the boost hoses either side of the intercooler.

 

Steve.

 

[gsmdo]

On 7/16/2022 at 9:13 PM, Stevey Y said:

Hi just the section where the pipe joins the turbo, on another tangent you described an induction roar when accelerating , a split boost hose between the turbo and the intercooler would make the same noise as its loosing boost pressure which will put it in to limp as its also classed as an air leak  within the code you have its one of those lousy generic codes that covers a multitude of things. have a look at the boost hoses either side of the intercooler.

 

Steve.

 

Hi Steve,

I think we'll all agree, it's a tad warm for getting under the bonnet and working today...🥵

Has anyone got a decent diagram of where the hoses go, between the turbo and the intercooler, please? I understand (as you face the engine under the bonnet) that the intercooler radiator is at the front right - and that it'll have an 'in' pipe from the turbo (hot side) and an 'out' pipe to the throttle body/inlet manifold (cool side).

How much disassembly is required to remove/replace these hoses to check if they are split? Does the turbo have to come off? 😱

Any help (or a diagram or annotated pic) really appreciated - I don't know what temperature it will have to drop to in order to venture into the garage, but I doubt it'll be anytime today or tomorrow...

Thanks,

Mike 😎

[Stevey Y]

4 hours ago, gsmdo said:

Hi Steve,

I think we'll all agree, it's a tad warm for getting under the bonnet and working today...🥵

Has anyone got a decent diagram of where the hoses go, between the turbo and the intercooler, please? I understand (as you face the engine under the bonnet) that the intercooler radiator is at the front right - and that it'll have an 'in' pipe from the turbo (hot side) and an 'out' pipe to the throttle body/inlet manifold (cool side).

How much disassembly is required to remove/replace these hoses to check if they are split? Does the turbo have to come off? 😱

Any help (or a diagram or annotated pic) really appreciated - I don't know what temperature it will have to drop to in order to venture into the garage, but I doubt it'll be anytime today or tomorrow...

Thanks,

Mike 😎

Hi can't sue you under the trade description act about the weather, the turbo won't have to come off but I should imagine removing the trim above the intercooler is a raging possibility, if you PM me your model and VIN  I will see if I can get a ball park diagram off of my parts system, normally the main suspect runs from the other side of the turbo to the intercooler then from the exit side of the intercooler runs to the throttle body if you get a good visual on the intercooler the rest becomes apparent.

Steve.

[gsmdo]

10 minutes ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi can't sue you under the trade description act about the weather, the turbo won't have to come off but I should imagine removing the trim above the intercooler is a raging possibility, if you PM me your model and VIN  I will see if I can get a ball park diagram off of my parts system, normally the main suspect runs from the other side of the turbo to the intercooler then from the exit side of the intercooler runs to the throttle body if you get a good visual on the intercooler the rest becomes apparent.

Steve.

Thanks, Steve - I reached out to my parts buddy at Norwich Audi, and he sent me these pics:

I would imagine, with the amount of noise from the intake, the split hose shouldn't be too hard to find. It'll just be a case of how difficult it is to change, I suppose...

 

Mike 😎

[Stevey Y]

4 minutes ago, gsmdo said:

Thanks, Steve - I reached out to my parts buddy at Norwich Audi, and he sent me these pics:

I would imagine, with the amount of noise from the intake, the split hose shouldn't be too hard to find. It'll just be a case of how difficult it is to change, I suppose...

 

Mike 😎

Hi its either 5 or 7 if they are rubber they are the most likely to fail as they live in a world of cr@p from the unburnt gunge from the PCV valve, good skills with the diagrams.

Steve

 

 

 

[gsmdo]

9 minutes ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi its either 5 or 7 if they are rubber they are the most likely to fail as they live in a world of cr@p from the unburnt gunge from the PCV valve, good skills with the diagrams.

Steve

 

 

 

Thanks, Steve - are they on the hot or cold side of the intercooler?🤔

 

Mike 😎

[Stevey Y]

2 minutes ago, gsmdo said:

Thanks, Steve - are they on the hot or cold side of the intercooler?🤔

 

Mike 😎

Hi on both sides of the intercooler there is no hot side as such it just over warmed air from the turbo which is caused by compression of that air the cooler merely cools it to a suitable level, the heating is caused by friction, I would just check both in the diagram if there is no obvious leakage, and believe me you will see it, chase the pipework up above the cooler and check every hose to the throttle body.

Steve.

[gsmdo]

OK—cool enough this evening to  get the convertible out of the garage and see if I can make some sense of where this air leak is. My prime suspect—Exhibit A:

…is this guy which is a tight S shape (number five in this diagram).

It has been drenched in oil and dirt for ages, since the breather hose lower connection was not held on with a spring clip. The oil and dirt you can see is after a good dose of brake cleaner. It feels spongy, although I'm unable to detect any splits or leaks from it in place. It's pretty easy to access, so I'll pop it off in the next day or so with a view to replacing it, whether it turns out to be the culprit or not…

Next up—Exhibit B:

On the face of it, this looks to be in good condition and I don't think it is causing the leak, but feeling underneath it, there is a really soft spongy feel to it. I think it's going to have to be replaced as well…

Then there's Exhibit C :

…which appears to be in good condition…

…all the way to the intercooler.

I can't get good access to the bottom of the intercooler to have a look at...

...pipe seven yet, as I ran out of time. Having said that, I can see a lot of oil and detritus down there, so it'll likely be worth replacing it as a precaution. I'll search for parts and prices this evening.

Before I go, though—can anyone explain how the battery cover is meant to work? I can see it has a spring thing on one of the terminals...

…which common-sense would say was to put some pressure onto the lid as it slots into place…

Except mine doesn't slot into place. It just floats about. Has mine been broken or something? Not a big thing, but it bugs me a little…

Cheers,

Mike😎

[Stevey Y]

25 minutes ago, gsmdo said:

OK—cool enough this evening to  get the convertible out of the garage and see if I can make some sense of where this air leak is. My prime suspect—Exhibit A:

…is this guy which is a tight S shape (number five in this diagram).

It has been drenched in oil and dirt for ages, since the breather hose lower connection was not held on with a spring clip. The oil and dirt you can see is after a good dose of brake cleaner. It feels spongy, although I'm unable to detect any splits or leaks from it in place. It's pretty easy to access, so I'll pop it off in the next day or so with a view to replacing it, whether it turns out to be the culprit or not…

Next up—Exhibit B:

On the face of it, this looks to be in good condition and I don't think it is causing the leak, but feeling underneath it, there is a really soft spongy feel to it. I think it's going to have to be replaced as well…

Then there's Exhibit C :

…which appears to be in good condition…

…all the way to the intercooler.

I can't get good access to the bottom of the intercooler to have a look at...

...pipe seven yet, as I ran out of time. Having said that, I can see a lot of oil and detritus down there, so it'll likely be worth replacing it as a precaution. I'll search for parts and prices this evening.

Before I go, though—can anyone explain how the battery cover is meant to work? I can see it has a spring thing on one of the terminals...

…which common-sense would say was to put some pressure onto the lid as it slots into place…

Except mine doesn't slot into place. It just floats about. Has mine been broken or something? Not a big thing, but it bugs me a little…

Cheers,

Mike😎

Hi that spring thingy should lock into the bit on the cover with the arrow on it on the underside.

Steve.

[gsmdo]

7 minutes ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi that spring thingy should lock into the bit on the cover with the arrow on it on the underside.

Steve.

Thanks, Steve - I'll have a squint at it tomorrow...👍

 

Mike 😎

[gsmdo]

So, my parts guru came up with the information first thing today:

 

Hose 5 8E0145834AR £305 😱

Hose 6 3B0145838A £99

Hose 7 8E0145837G £56
 

These are clearly made from refined unobtainium...

I put the numbers into eBay and ordered:

Hose 5 £38.49

Hose 6 £14.99

Hose 7 £19.99

Which means, using 'girlfriend logic', that I have already saved £386 😆

Incidentally, the metal gallery across the front of the car is £677 🤦‍♂️

The parts should start arriving on Saturday, so I'll likely pull the other ones out in preparation this evening.

Mike 😎

 

[gsmdo]

OK - a nice warm day with a cool breeze. I finished work early and popped to Halfords to pick up a pair of axle stands, a pair of wheel chocks, and a crawler pad. It's clear to me that this job needs doing from underneath.

They're rated to two tons, which will be ample.

Before jacking the front of the car up, I attack hose 5 - exhibit B above - as it's easily accessible from above. It's held in place by one of Beelzebub's spring  clips at one end…

.

...which is undone with a pair of water pump grips...

...and at the other end by a clip (ringed). To release it, you simply pull it towards you then push it down - this then releases the metal connector.

It looks OK, but is very spongy and soft, so I am happy to replace it. This is the part that will cost you £305 from Audi - but £38.49 from eBay 😃.

OK - easy bit done - time to get the trolley jack out...

I carefully set the jack beneath the jacking point and pump it up until I judge I can comfortably (always a relative term) get underneath the car. I set the axle stand on its middle setting and then do the same on  the other side of the car...

I undo the QD fasteners on the under tray (a couple surprisingly hard to undo, bearing in mind it had recently been off to change the clutch) and remove it...

It is filthy - all because of the lack of a clip on the bottom end of the breather hose. I'm going to put half a bottle of Fairy Liquid on it overnight, then power wash the gunk off tomorrow morning, I think...

The hose from the bottom of the intercooler to the gallery (Hose 7 above) is dry and appears to be in good condition. It also appears to be the original fitment for the car, and likely hasn't been disturbed in 16 years. I take it off anyway, as I have a replacement coming...

So - to the main event - Pipe 5 - Exhibit A above. The jubilee clip clamping it to the gallery had been downward facing, which is one of the reasons I'm lying on my back doing this job. Despite numerous dousings with brake cleaner, the whole area is caked in oily filth, and it soon looks like I am wearing elbow length black gloves...

The top fixing (where it joins the turbo) is the same clip type as on Hose 5 (Exhibit B above). Once again, I disengage the wire clip, but the hose is less enthusiastic to part company with the turbo. Eventually, having disconnected the other end from the gallery, I manage to wiggle and rotate it sufficiently to remove it...

Winner, winner, chicken dinner...

There's a large split in the end, up near the turbo. This may well account for the loud intake roar I've been hearing and the other symptoms... 🤞

So - I just have to wait for the replacement hoses to arrive. Unfortunately, this will coincide with another period of very hot weather (31C forecast for Sunday), so it may be mid-week before I refit things.

I noticed a couple of things when underneath the car. There is a second under tray, covering the gearbox area, and there's a huge chunk of it missing (presumably dragged off on a speed bump or something). I'll get a part number and see if I can find a used replacement.

Also, the front bumper of the car has a series of rivets set into it. It looks like it used to have a front air dam or something - can anyone confirm if this was standard fit? I presume it was a casualty of whatever pulled off part of the rear under tray.

The snubber rubber is quite perished. This doesn't look to be a difficult job to replace  - is it worth doing - will I notice the difference?

That's about all I can remember -- I'm going to have a long shower and then open a bottle of wine...

Mike 😎

 

[Stevey Y]

13 minutes ago, gsmdo said:

OK - a nice warm day with a cool breeze. I finished work early and popped to Halfords to pick up a pair of axle stands, a pair of wheel chocks, and a crawler pad. It's clear to me that this job needs doing from underneath.

They're rated to two tons, which will be ample.

Before jacking the front of the car up, I attack hose 5 - exhibit B above - as it's easily accessible from above. It's held in place by one of Beelzebub's spring  clips at one end…

.

...which is undone with a pair of water pump grips...

...and at the other end by a clip (ringed). To release it, you simply pull it towards you then push it down - this then releases the metal connector.

It looks OK, but is very spongy and soft, so I am happy to replace it. This is the part that will cost you £305 from Audi - but £38.49 from eBay 😃.

OK - easy bit done - time to get the trolley jack out...

I carefully set the jack beneath the jacking point and pump it up until I judge I can comfortably (always a relative term) get underneath the car. I set the axle stand on its middle setting and then do the same on  the other side of the car...

I undo the QD fasteners on the under tray (a couple surprisingly hard to undo, bearing in mind it had recently been off to change the clutch) and remove it...

It is filthy - all because of the lack of a clip on the bottom end of the breather hose. I'm going to put half a bottle of Fairy Liquid on it overnight, then power wash the gunk off tomorrow morning, I think...

The hose from the bottom of the intercooler to the gallery (Hose 7 above) is dry and appears to be in good condition. It also appears to be the original fitment for the car, and likely hasn't been disturbed in 16 years. I take it off anyway, as I have a replacement coming...

So - to the main event - Pipe 5 - Exhibit A above. The jubilee clip clamping it to the gallery had been downward facing, which is one of the reasons I'm lying on my back doing this job. Despite numerous dousings with brake cleaner, the whole area is caked in oily filth, and it soon looks like I am wearing elbow length black gloves...

The top fixing (where it joins the turbo) is the same clip type as on Hose 5 (Exhibit B above). Once again, I disengage the wire clip, but the hose is less enthusiastic to part company with the turbo. Eventually, having disconnected the other end from the gallery, I manage to wiggle and rotate it sufficiently to remove it...

Winner, winner, chicken dinner...

There's a large split in the end, up near the turbo. This may well account for the loud intake roar I've been hearing and the other symptoms... 🤞

So - I just have to wait for the replacement hoses to arrive. Unfortunately, this will coincide with another period of very hot weather (31C forecast for Sunday), so it may be mid-week before I refit things.

I noticed a couple of things when underneath the car. There is a second under tray, covering the gearbox area, and there's a huge chunk of it missing (presumably dragged off on a speed bump or something). I'll get a part number and see if I can find a used replacement.

Also, the front bumper of the car has a series of rivets set into it. It looks like it used to have a front air dam or something - can anyone confirm if this was standard fit? I presume it was a casualty of whatever pulled off part of the rear under tray.

The snubber rubber is quite perished. This doesn't look to be a difficult job to replace  - is it worth doing - will I notice the difference?

That's about all I can remember -- I'm going to have a long shower and then open a bottle of wine...

Mike 😎

 

Hi excellent post, you are in  danger of becoming a serious home mechanic, I see Audi are as usual quoting starship part prices and I commend your thinking using the part numbers on eBay thats all I ever do as most of whats classed as aftermarket was used under patent by Audi in the first place, prime example when I was looking at my low pressure EGR cooler valve it was £360+ VAT and is made by VDO/Continental in Germany, the same brand valve with the same VDO part number on eBay £120 shipped, its a no brainer, throttle valve which incorporates the high pressure EGR, Audi over £400 same part eBay £150, if you have the original part numbers its like a kid being locked in a sweetshop, you can try everything.

Steve.

[gsmdo]

So - solutions to a couple of the side issues I've found.

The under-tray is, frankly, a write-off. I have bought a new one, complete with a new rear (gearbox) under-tray for £65 delivered from eBay, including a fitting kit with all new fixings. I'm going to use copper-slip on everything when I reassemble. Let's face it, the fasteners there are exposed to all the weather the car goes through...

I've found a new Bilstein front snubber rubber for £7 from Amazon.  Replacement looks straightforward - excellent YouTube video here.

The battery cover, which has been a niggle since I have had the car, has clearly got some lugs broken off the bottom of it (ringed)

...which explains why it doesn't sit in place. Once again, eBay is my friend at £18.50 delivered.

More news as parts arrive...😆

Mike 😎

 

Edited July 23, 2022 by gsmdo

[gsmdo]

Parts have started to arrive (I was out, but was alerted by a text saying that parcels have been left in my "Safe Space" between my buns, which was a little worrying...).

This one is the hose from the bottom of the intercooler to the gallery (the original is still in good condition, but I'm replacing it anyway)...

...and this one - Pipe Five above - which is the replacement for the hose with the split in it, running from the turbo to the gallery...

 

Since I would have to lift the car onto axle stands to fit these, and it'll be getting warmish later (It's 22C now), I won't be refitting anything until I have all the parts here (including oil and filter, and fuel filter) - probably on Wednesday or Thursday next week, when it is due to cool down (temporarily)...

Mike 😎

[gsmdo]

Some more parts arrived today, including the final hose—what on earth makes this over £300 from Audi? 🤨

…the snubber bush…

…and finally the new under-trays and fixings, which came in a vast cardboard box—the size of a chest of drawers—and are really substantially built. In fact, probably better than the OEM stuff.

I'm still waiting for everything to arrive before going into battle—probably Thursday, I think…

Mike 😎

[Stevey Y]

1 hour ago, gsmdo said:

Some more parts arrived today, including the final hose—what on earth makes this over £300 from Audi? 🤨

…the snubber bush…

…and finally the new under-trays and fixings, which came in a vast cardboard box—the size of a chest of drawers—and are really substantially built. In fact, probably better than the OEM stuff.

I'm still waiting for everything to arrive before going into battle—probably Thursday, I think…

Mike 😎

Hi Mike, there is so much good quality stuff out there at a fraction of the price those thieving gits want for it, this is what I find most annoying when people waffle on about genuine parts, the only thing genuine about it is the box, someone else made the part inside it, even my genuine clutch master cylinder I bought from Audi because it was the only place I could get an LUK cylinder has now appeared on eBay for about £80 instead of the £170 I paid chalk that one to experience, they have obviously come out of copyright.

While we are here please see the value of changing your air filter regularly, both Bosch units except one is new and the one on the left has done 8k and three months, please note the discolouration on the inside of the old filter which is the ingress of really fine particles of dust/soot from other vehicles.

Steve.

[gsmdo]

1 minute ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi Mike, there is so much good quality stuff out there at a fraction of the price those thieving gits want for it, this is what I find most annoying when people waffle on about genuine parts, the only thing genuine about it is the box, someone else made the part inside it, even my genuine clutch master cylinder I bought from Audi because it was the only place I could get an LUK cylinder has now appeared on eBay for about £80 instead of the £170 I paid chalk that one to experience, they have obviously come out of copyright.

While we are here please see the value of changing your air filter regularly, both Bosch units except one is new and the one on the left has done 8k and three months, please note the discolouration on the inside of the old filter which is the ingress of really fine particles of dust/soot from other vehicles.

Steve.

Blimey - I think I'll be putting air filters down as a six-month replacement on both my cars... 

[Stevey Y]

7 minutes ago, gsmdo said:

Blimey - I think I'll be putting air filters down as a six-month replacement on both my cars... 

Hi Mike on normal cars that don't do the miles once a year is good, I get my filters from eBay sub £15 so changing them is no drama, I normally pay about £70 for the whole lot oil, air,fuel,pollen and the oil itself all Bosch filters and Mannol long life oil which if anyone says is useless I would disagree, I have used their Quantum spec oil for over a year and if anything will kill a product it would be a cab.

Steve.

[gsmdo]

So, I decided that Friday would be a better day to do this - as my mate Dave was available to give me a hand today...

I start off by breaking down the vast cardboard box the under-trays came in, and use it as a working  surface to stop stuff getting on the driveway. I jack and axle-stand the car up, then lay out the parts and tools I'll need on the garage floor...

I begin with a couple of easy  jobs - replacing the £305 £19 hose 😆 - Beelzebub's spring clip was positioned by Dave with the biggest set of plumbers grips I've ever seen - the metal end was held in place by the clip built into the turbo...

Then the main feed from the MAS to the turbo - I tightened the two 10mm bolts up using a short ratchet, as space was tight (plus I have hands like shovels). I used a trick a mechanic mate of mine showed me years ago to set the right hand bolt in place. I put a couple of layers of kitchen roll between the bolt and the socket, making it impossible to accidentally lose the bolt before you get it started...

OK - time to get a bit grubby. I get under the car and unbolt the front engine mount from the block - colloquially known as the Snubber. As you can see, this is likely the original one, and is badly perished - in fact, it starts coming apart in my hand. I cut it off using a Stanley knife and bin it...

It is remarkably easy to get the new bush on...

...and I manage to refit it, by carefully tightening each of the three bolts securing it in turn, saving me having to loosen the nuts on the socket...

Whilst underneath, I reach back and undo the two remaining fasteners holding the damaged gearbox under-tray in place and bring it out...

It seems to have a hard life... 🤨

I  come up for air and fit the new battery cover in place - working as designed for the first time since I have had the car 😆

Next up - new fuel filter. I must go back and check the old one to see if it has a date on it - because I'm pretty sure it was the original...😱

There's an excellent tutorial guide on how to do this - pretty simple - job here.

I fit the two remaining turbo hoses, from underneath the car, without any drama - my hands were too dirty to take pics, though...

We start the car up - it took a long time for the diesel to get to the injectors via the new filter - and let it idle for a few minutes to warm the oil. It sounds way better already... 😃

This should be tightened to 25Nm - says so on the (plastic) lid.

OMG - it was tightened to Godzilla hand tight. My oil filter socket started slipping - so we put a layer of cloth between the filter top and the socket for some extra stiction, which worked - but that was not 25Nm... 🤨

Once the oil was warm, we switched off and Dave volunteered to go underneath to drain it. A bit thin and watery, he reckoned. We changed the filter and O-ring - tightening to exactly 25Nm when done... 😃

Filled up with 3.8 litres of Quantum's finest, then started up again and checked for leaks. There being none, Dave, once again, nobly volunteered to get back underneath (I'm going to owe him so much beer) and fit the new gearbox and engine under trays - which at least had the advantage of coming with new fasteners.

I must say, the quality and fit of these was a bit disappointing. Time will tell whether they are up to the task... 🤔

I started reassembling the top of the engine - replacing the air intake duct and - finally - fitting the engine cover.

We removed the axle stands and then checked the oil - exactly on the 'Max' mark 👍

Time to take it out for a test drive.

As soon as I drove out onto the road, I knew we'd fixed it. It picked up immediately, without any smoke and - critically - without any intake roar. I drove down to the A47 and drove about four miles in 4th gear - the revs around 4k, then turned off and stopped the engine. On restart, the DPF warning light had gone out - Yay! 🥳

I drove back home and ran the OBDEleven. As expected, it had numerous faults, but I just cleared them all and rescanned it. It came up with the expected three faults - all relating to the after-market radio I have fitted.

Most importantly, it does NOT have a P2279 code... 😃

Job done. 👍

Thanks everyone for your help and advice - this place is a great resource.

Mike 😎

Edited July 30, 2022 by gsmdo

[Stevey Y]

1 hour ago, gsmdo said:

So, I decided that Friday would be a better day to do this - as my mate Dave was available to give me a hand today...

I start off by breaking down the vast cardboard box the under-trays came in, and use it as a working  surface to stop stuff getting on the driveway. I jack and axle-stand the car up, then lay out the parts and tools I'll need on the garage floor...

I begin with a couple of easy  jobs - replacing the £305 £19 hose 😆 - Beelzebub's spring clip was positioned by Dave with the biggest set of plumbers grips I've ever seen - the metal end was held in place by the clip built into the turbo...

Then the main feed from the MAS to the turbo - I tightened the two 10mm bolts up using a short ratchet, as space was tight (plus I have hands like shovels). I used a trick a mechanic mate of mine showed me years ago to set the right hand bolt in place. I put a couple of layers of kitchen roll between the bolt and the socket, making it impossible to accidentally lose the bolt before you get it started...

OK - time to get a bit grubby. I get under the car and unbolt the front engine mount from the block - colloquially known as the Snubber. As you can see, this is likely the original one, and is badly perished - in fact, it starts coming apart in my hand. I cut it off using a Stanley knife and bin it...

It is remarkably easy to get the new bush on...

...and I manage to refit it, by carefully tightening each of the three bolts securing it in turn, saving me having to loosen the nuts on the socket...

Whilst underneath, I reach back and undo the two remaining fasteners holding the damaged gearbox under-tray in place and bring it out...

It seems to have a hard life... 🤨

I  come up for air and fit the new battery cover in place - working as designed for the first time since I have had the car 😆

Next up - new fuel filter. I must go back and check the old one to see if it has a date on it - because I'm pretty sure it was the original...😱

There's an excellent tutorial guide on how to do this - pretty simple - job here.

I fit the two remaining turbo hoses, from underneath the car, without any drama - my hands were too dirty to take pics, though...

We start the car up - it took a long time for the diesel to get to the injectors via the new filter - and let it idle for a few minutes to warm the oil. It sounds way better already... 😃

This should be tightened to 25Nm - says so on the (plastic) lid.

OMG - it was tightened to Godzilla hand tight. My oil filter socket started slipping - so we put a layer of cloth between the filter top and the socket for some extra stiction, which worked - but that was not 25Nm... 🤨

Once the oil was warm, we switched off and Dave volunteered to go underneath to drain it. A bit thin and watery, he reckoned. We changed the filter and O-ring - tightening to exactly 25Nm when done... 😃

Filled up with 3.8 litres of Quantum's finest, then started up again and checked for leaks. There being none, Dave, once again, nobly volunteered to get back underneath (I'm going to owe him so much beer) and fit the new gearbox and engine under trays - which at least had the advantage of coming with new fasteners.

I must say, the quality and fit of these was a bit disappointing. Time will tell whether they are up to the task... 🤔

I started reassembling the top of the engine - replacing the air intake duct and - finally - fitting the engine cover.

We removed the axle stands and then checked the oil - exactly on the 'Max' mark 👍

Time to take it out for a test drive.

As soon as I drove out onto the road, I knew we'd fixed it. It picked up immediately, without any smoke and - critically - without any intake roar. I drove down to the A47 and drove about four miles in 4th gear - the revs around 4k, then turned off and stopped the engine. On restart, the DPF warning light had gone out - Yay! 🥳

I drove back home and ran the OBDEleven. As expected, it had numerous faults, but I just cleared them all and rescanned it. It came up with the expected three faults - all relating to the after-market radio I have fitted.

Most importantly, it does NOT have a P2279 code... 😃

Job done. 👍

Thanks everyone for your help and advice - this place is a great resource.

Mike 😎

Hi Mike, Man on Fire, two tips for the fuel filter when changing either get one of those old fashioned Cafe plastic sauce dispensers £1.00 from your local cheap shop and fill it with diesel from that, or the clean way is sit in the car don't try and start it just cycle the ignition on/off for about 10 seconds fifteen times and the lift pump will fill the filter, the oil filter housing is easier if you buy a filter cap removal tool which fits on top of the cap and depending which model you buy will have a nut welded to the metal remover or if you want to be really flash buy the one with the 3/8 drive port for an extension bar.

Steve.

[gsmdo]

1 hour ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi Mike, Man on Fire, two tips for the fuel filter when changing either get one of those old fashioned Cafe plastic sauce dispensers £1.00 from your local cheap shop and fill it with diesel from that, or the clean way is sit in the car don't try and start it just cycle the ignition on/off for about 10 seconds fifteen times and the lift pump will fill the filter, the oil filter housing is easier if you buy a filter cap removal tool which fits on top of the cap and depending which model you buy will have a nut welded to the metal remover or if you want to be really flash buy the one with the 3/8 drive port for an extension bar.

Steve.

I actually had a filter removal tool that fitted - it’s the same size as my motorcycle one. It had just been severely overtightened 🤨

Good tip on running the lift pump rather than cranking the engine 👍 I think I’d prefer that to trying to fill the filter. 🤔

Can’t tell you how satisfying it is to have gone through the diagnostic process and finally resolved the problem. 

I now need to clean it - it’s filthy… 

Mike 😎 

[gsmdo]

I let the nice chaps down at Tesco give the old girl a bit of a clean-up today...

That's more like it...

Job now properly complete.

Mike 😎