Car shuts down while driving

[Elit99]

Hi everyone, I'm writing this post to at least try to figure out how to trigger the problem. Sorry if some words are incorrect, I used the translator to try to make everything understandable

Car:

Audi A3 8PA 2011 S.tronic. Engine: CFFB 103kw, 140cv

Problem description:

When I am driving the car, it stops working, it turns off the engine, the instrument panel, the stereo, air conditioning. The feeling to understand it better is as if while you are driving the car, you turn the ignition lock to turn it off, taking it to the last position
It all started a month ago. The car is left outside without cover because of work and it was very hot that day, like 45°C. The car started with air conditioning and stereo on. While I was driving, after not even 5 minutes of queuing for traffic, the car switched off as shown in the first lines, I then turned the car back on and after 10 meters it fell back on, this for 3 times, after which I had to call the tow truck.
A diagnosis was therefore made but without positive feedback, nothing to report. However, the battery had come to an end, so it was replaced with one shown in the booklet.
After a few days, however, the problem arose again, with the difference, however, that once it was tried to turn it back on it failed, it tried 3 times but without success, turning off permanently and again, diagnosis and no problem, no light on.
Again, diagnosis and no problem, no lights on. Until an error with code 0373 appeared "Ignition block: terminal S electrical fault in the electrical circuit", something like that, so I changed that. 
After two days, however, the problem reappeared. Now, In addition to the problems listed, now at the last step of the ignition block, the engine did not start.

And Im here.

Whenever problems arose, the car was under the sun and temperatures were very high. When the machine is not under the sun, the machine works perfectly, even for long journeys.

Work Already Performed
- New Alternator
- New Battery
- New Ignition lock, electrical part

Diagnosis errors
- Bus CAN / Gateway 3.0
    - 0522 Engine management control unit. No signal
    - 0414 Control unit. Incorrect coding
- Electricity management / Battery management
    - 08CC Alternator. Mechanical fault
    - 08CC Alternator. Electrical fault in the electrical circuit
- Central electronics / Central electronics ZE 3.3
    - 014C Unlocking the tank door. Ground contact
    - 0522 Engine management control unit. No signal
- Gearbox control unit
    - 0522 Engine management control unit. No signal
    - Unknown error

Tests performed
Manual overheating to gateway control unit - didn't work
Manual overheating to stereo - didn't work
Manual overheating to steering control unit - didn't work


Thanks!

[Stevey Y]

14 minutes ago, Elit99 said:

Hi everyone, I'm writing this post to at least try to figure out how to trigger the problem. Sorry if some words are incorrect, I used the translator to try to make everything understandable

Car:

Audi A3 8PA 2011 S.tronic. Engine: CFFB 103kw, 140cv

Problem description:

When I am driving the car, it stops working, it turns off the engine, the instrument panel, the stereo, air conditioning. The feeling to understand it better is as if while you are driving the car, you turn the ignition lock to turn it off, taking it to the last position
It all started a month ago. The car is left outside without cover because of work and it was very hot that day, like 45°C. The car started with air conditioning and stereo on. While I was driving, after not even 5 minutes of queuing for traffic, the car switched off as shown in the first lines, I then turned the car back on and after 10 meters it fell back on, this for 3 times, after which I had to call the tow truck.
A diagnosis was therefore made but without positive feedback, nothing to report. However, the battery had come to an end, so it was replaced with one shown in the booklet.
After a few days, however, the problem arose again, with the difference, however, that once it was tried to turn it back on it failed, it tried 3 times but without success, turning off permanently and again, diagnosis and no problem, no light on.
Again, diagnosis and no problem, no lights on. Until an error with code 0373 appeared "Ignition block: terminal S electrical fault in the electrical circuit", something like that, so I changed that. 
After two days, however, the problem reappeared. Now, In addition to the problems listed, now at the last step of the ignition block, the engine did not start.

And Im here.

Whenever problems arose, the car was under the sun and temperatures were very high. When the machine is not under the sun, the machine works perfectly, even for long journeys.

Work Already Performed
- New Alternator
- New Battery
- New Ignition lock, electrical part

Diagnosis errors
- Bus CAN / Gateway 3.0
    - 0522 Engine management control unit. No signal
    - 0414 Control unit. Incorrect coding
- Electricity management / Battery management
    - 08CC Alternator. Mechanical fault
    - 08CC Alternator. Electrical fault in the electrical circuit
- Central electronics / Central electronics ZE 3.3
    - 014C Unlocking the tank door. Ground contact
    - 0522 Engine management control unit. No signal
- Gearbox control unit
    - 0522 Engine management control unit. No signal
    - Unknown error

Tests performed
Manual overheating to gateway control unit - didn't work
Manual overheating to stereo - didn't work
Manual overheating to steering control unit - didn't work


Thanks!

Hi did you recode the new battery to the car.

Steve.

[Elit99]

35 minutes ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi did you recode the new battery to the car.

Steve.

Thank you for your response Steve!

I don't think it was done, I'll check tomorrow and see if I can do it.

Out of curiosity, how could this be the cause?
Does the heat have anything to do with what is happening to the car?

Theoretically, if it's a battery problem, it should happen often, right? 
On the other hand, the times it happened to me was only due to the fact that it was under the sun and the inside of the car had a very high temperature.
Instead, every other time the machine works correctly.

Edited August 16, 2023 by Elit99

[Steve Q]

The battery not being coded won't allow key functions to work. 

I wonder if it's an immobiliser issue? 

[cliffcoggin]

Somewhere or other, I don't know where or when, I recall reading of high temperatures causing problems with the instrument cluster. By itself that information is of no use to you, but perhaps it may prompt other folks memories to add some detail.

[chemosabe]

similar issue for me today - 2006 A3 - while driving on the freeway, suddenly no power.  looked down and instrument panel off.  pulled to the side.   engine was not on.  turned off key and turned it back on.  car started and completed my journey.  seems like an electronic fault.  

[cliffcoggin]

Aram.

Two possibilities to consider:

A3 instrument panels are prone to failure, usually with flickering lights or the instruments simply die. I have not heard of such a fault causing the engine to die. The panels can be repaired by specialists at a much lower cost than a new Audi panel.

A defective battery can cause seemingly unrelated electronic problems with, for examples, cruise control, radio, air conditioning etc. Again I have not heard of such a fault causing the engine to die. Even if your battery starts the car easily it does not mean it is in good condition. If it is more than perhaps five years old it would be worth buying a new one. Don't forget to get it coded to the car.

[Audi-Inny]

Same thing has been happening to my car 2011 Audi a3 8p. The end of last summer. And now present start of summer (end of spring). Dashlights out, car shuts off completely. After cooling down between 2-20 min possibly it’ll start. And stall when it reaches a certain temp while driving it.

[Chris_M]

Hi did u ever fix the problem ?

[Elit99]

Hello everyone, I am still trying to solve the problem, I should have found the problem! In the coming weeks, when I get my car back, I'll let you know!

[Audi-Inny]

I just did a high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) on my car this past wknd. Today’s high will be 104 degrees. So I’m testing the theory of it being the HPFP overheating. I’ve read that quite possibly it’s because I’m  driving my car with a low tank of fuel also. (Read about this all week long.) I’ll come back here and post, for sure. After my trip back from work. (Wish me luck…)

[Chris_M]

I m having same problem as elit99. Its an electrical issue since dash and radio shuts off while driving and after its having problems cranking. Dtc 00883 related to ignition switch that has been changed and problem still there. There is a bad electrical connection somewhere or failing computer. In our case not related to hpfp

[Amar]

I have same issue did anyone get to the the source of the problem?

[cliffcoggin]

16 minutes ago, Amar said:

I have same issue did anyone get to the the source of the problem?

Amar.

You posted the same query in your own topic eight months ago, and failed to respond to the suggestions there. If you can't be bothered to look at it why should anybody answer you now?

https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/26340-audi-a3-16tdi-2011-randomly-cuts-out/#comment-100863

 

[Sid2020]

Had a customer come in with very similar problem years ago on a Renault megane, after probing wires and running every diagnostic test possible we came across that the engine ecu was temporarily disappearing from the can network when the fault happened. We sent the ecu away for repair and luckily that fixed the problem. Diagnostic tests on faults like these are hard as if the ecu is dropping offline it won’t log a fault as it’s simply powered down so as far as it’s concerned everything is fine, if your lucky other modules mainly immobilizer coded ones like steering lock/ instrument cluster and main body module will show a missing message fault

[Sid2020]

Regarding new battery programming, a battery can not be coded to a car, it’s just a battery with 2 terminals, the process involves editing the cars software to inform the car what type of battery cell technology you have fitted and what amperage the battery is, when this is done the battery must be at almost full charge as this is what the software is expecting, this then allows the alternator and start stop systems to work at there optimum efficiency and measure the battery’s health