Car shuts down while driving

[Elit99]

Hi everyone, I'm writing this post to at least try to figure out how to trigger the problem. Sorry if some words are incorrect, I used the translator to try to make everything understandable

Car:

Audi A3 8PA 2011 S.tronic. Engine: CFFB 103kw, 140cv

Problem description:

When I am driving the car, it stops working, it turns off the engine, the instrument panel, the stereo, air conditioning. The feeling to understand it better is as if while you are driving the car, you turn the ignition lock to turn it off, taking it to the last position
It all started a month ago. The car is left outside without cover because of work and it was very hot that day, like 45°C. The car started with air conditioning and stereo on. While I was driving, after not even 5 minutes of queuing for traffic, the car switched off as shown in the first lines, I then turned the car back on and after 10 meters it fell back on, this for 3 times, after which I had to call the tow truck.
A diagnosis was therefore made but without positive feedback, nothing to report. However, the battery had come to an end, so it was replaced with one shown in the booklet.
After a few days, however, the problem arose again, with the difference, however, that once it was tried to turn it back on it failed, it tried 3 times but without success, turning off permanently and again, diagnosis and no problem, no light on.
Again, diagnosis and no problem, no lights on. Until an error with code 0373 appeared "Ignition block: terminal S electrical fault in the electrical circuit", something like that, so I changed that. 
After two days, however, the problem reappeared. Now, In addition to the problems listed, now at the last step of the ignition block, the engine did not start.

And Im here.

Whenever problems arose, the car was under the sun and temperatures were very high. When the machine is not under the sun, the machine works perfectly, even for long journeys.

Work Already Performed
- New Alternator
- New Battery
- New Ignition lock, electrical part

Diagnosis errors
- Bus CAN / Gateway 3.0
    - 0522 Engine management control unit. No signal
    - 0414 Control unit. Incorrect coding
- Electricity management / Battery management
    - 08CC Alternator. Mechanical fault
    - 08CC Alternator. Electrical fault in the electrical circuit
- Central electronics / Central electronics ZE 3.3
    - 014C Unlocking the tank door. Ground contact
    - 0522 Engine management control unit. No signal
- Gearbox control unit
    - 0522 Engine management control unit. No signal
    - Unknown error

Tests performed
Manual overheating to gateway control unit - didn't work
Manual overheating to stereo - didn't work
Manual overheating to steering control unit - didn't work


Thanks!

[Stevey Y]

14 minutes ago, Elit99 said:

Hi everyone, I'm writing this post to at least try to figure out how to trigger the problem. Sorry if some words are incorrect, I used the translator to try to make everything understandable

Car:

Audi A3 8PA 2011 S.tronic. Engine: CFFB 103kw, 140cv

Problem description:

When I am driving the car, it stops working, it turns off the engine, the instrument panel, the stereo, air conditioning. The feeling to understand it better is as if while you are driving the car, you turn the ignition lock to turn it off, taking it to the last position
It all started a month ago. The car is left outside without cover because of work and it was very hot that day, like 45°C. The car started with air conditioning and stereo on. While I was driving, after not even 5 minutes of queuing for traffic, the car switched off as shown in the first lines, I then turned the car back on and after 10 meters it fell back on, this for 3 times, after which I had to call the tow truck.
A diagnosis was therefore made but without positive feedback, nothing to report. However, the battery had come to an end, so it was replaced with one shown in the booklet.
After a few days, however, the problem arose again, with the difference, however, that once it was tried to turn it back on it failed, it tried 3 times but without success, turning off permanently and again, diagnosis and no problem, no light on.
Again, diagnosis and no problem, no lights on. Until an error with code 0373 appeared "Ignition block: terminal S electrical fault in the electrical circuit", something like that, so I changed that. 
After two days, however, the problem reappeared. Now, In addition to the problems listed, now at the last step of the ignition block, the engine did not start.

And Im here.

Whenever problems arose, the car was under the sun and temperatures were very high. When the machine is not under the sun, the machine works perfectly, even for long journeys.

Work Already Performed
- New Alternator
- New Battery
- New Ignition lock, electrical part

Diagnosis errors
- Bus CAN / Gateway 3.0
    - 0522 Engine management control unit. No signal
    - 0414 Control unit. Incorrect coding
- Electricity management / Battery management
    - 08CC Alternator. Mechanical fault
    - 08CC Alternator. Electrical fault in the electrical circuit
- Central electronics / Central electronics ZE 3.3
    - 014C Unlocking the tank door. Ground contact
    - 0522 Engine management control unit. No signal
- Gearbox control unit
    - 0522 Engine management control unit. No signal
    - Unknown error

Tests performed
Manual overheating to gateway control unit - didn't work
Manual overheating to stereo - didn't work
Manual overheating to steering control unit - didn't work


Thanks!

Hi did you recode the new battery to the car.

Steve.

[Elit99]

35 minutes ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi did you recode the new battery to the car.

Steve.

Thank you for your response Steve!

I don't think it was done, I'll check tomorrow and see if I can do it.

Out of curiosity, how could this be the cause?
Does the heat have anything to do with what is happening to the car?

Theoretically, if it's a battery problem, it should happen often, right? 
On the other hand, the times it happened to me was only due to the fact that it was under the sun and the inside of the car had a very high temperature.
Instead, every other time the machine works correctly.

Edited August 16, 2023 by Elit99

[Steve Q]

The battery not being coded won't allow key functions to work. 

I wonder if it's an immobiliser issue? 

[cliffcoggin]

Somewhere or other, I don't know where or when, I recall reading of high temperatures causing problems with the instrument cluster. By itself that information is of no use to you, but perhaps it may prompt other folks memories to add some detail.

[chemosabe]

similar issue for me today - 2006 A3 - while driving on the freeway, suddenly no power.  looked down and instrument panel off.  pulled to the side.   engine was not on.  turned off key and turned it back on.  car started and completed my journey.  seems like an electronic fault.  

[cliffcoggin]

Aram.

Two possibilities to consider:

A3 instrument panels are prone to failure, usually with flickering lights or the instruments simply die. I have not heard of such a fault causing the engine to die. The panels can be repaired by specialists at a much lower cost than a new Audi panel.

A defective battery can cause seemingly unrelated electronic problems with, for examples, cruise control, radio, air conditioning etc. Again I have not heard of such a fault causing the engine to die. Even if your battery starts the car easily it does not mean it is in good condition. If it is more than perhaps five years old it would be worth buying a new one. Don't forget to get it coded to the car.

[Audi-Inny]

Same thing has been happening to my car 2011 Audi a3 8p. The end of last summer. And now present start of summer (end of spring). Dashlights out, car shuts off completely. After cooling down between 2-20 min possibly it’ll start. And stall when it reaches a certain temp while driving it.

[Chris_M]

Hi did u ever fix the problem ?

[Elit99]

Hello everyone, I am still trying to solve the problem, I should have found the problem! In the coming weeks, when I get my car back, I'll let you know!

[Audi-Inny]

I just did a high pressure fuel pump (HPFP) on my car this past wknd. Today’s high will be 104 degrees. So I’m testing the theory of it being the HPFP overheating. I’ve read that quite possibly it’s because I’m  driving my car with a low tank of fuel also. (Read about this all week long.) I’ll come back here and post, for sure. After my trip back from work. (Wish me luck…)

[Chris_M]

I m having same problem as elit99. Its an electrical issue since dash and radio shuts off while driving and after its having problems cranking. Dtc 00883 related to ignition switch that has been changed and problem still there. There is a bad electrical connection somewhere or failing computer. In our case not related to hpfp

[Amar]

I have same issue did anyone get to the the source of the problem?

[cliffcoggin]

16 minutes ago, Amar said:

I have same issue did anyone get to the the source of the problem?

Amar.

You posted the same query in your own topic eight months ago, and failed to respond to the suggestions there. If you can't be bothered to look at it why should anybody answer you now?

https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/26340-audi-a3-16tdi-2011-randomly-cuts-out/#comment-100863

 

[Sid2020]

Had a customer come in with very similar problem years ago on a Renault megane, after probing wires and running every diagnostic test possible we came across that the engine ecu was temporarily disappearing from the can network when the fault happened. We sent the ecu away for repair and luckily that fixed the problem. Diagnostic tests on faults like these are hard as if the ecu is dropping offline it won’t log a fault as it’s simply powered down so as far as it’s concerned everything is fine, if your lucky other modules mainly immobilizer coded ones like steering lock/ instrument cluster and main body module will show a missing message fault

[Sid2020]

Regarding new battery programming, a battery can not be coded to a car, it’s just a battery with 2 terminals, the process involves editing the cars software to inform the car what type of battery cell technology you have fitted and what amperage the battery is, when this is done the battery must be at almost full charge as this is what the software is expecting, this then allows the alternator and start stop systems to work at there optimum efficiency and measure the battery’s health

[Stevey Y]

On 12/25/2024 at 12:42 AM, Sid2020 said:

Regarding new battery programming, a battery can not be coded to a car, it’s just a battery with 2 terminals, the process involves editing the cars software to inform the car what type of battery cell technology you have fitted and what amperage the battery is, when this is done the battery must be at almost full charge as this is what the software is expecting, this then allows the alternator and start stop systems to work at there optimum efficiency and measure the battery’s health

HI if its just a battery with two posts you have just described coding it in perfectly, if it can't be coded to the car what is the point of changing the information from the new battery against the old battery information, my understanding was that the idea of changing any information including the battery BEM number was to let the ECU know there is a new battery fitted therefore the BEM will not keep charging the new unit at the same rate as the old unit therefore frying the plates inside the new unit, recently did my battery on the Passat and had to change most of the information especially the change from EFB to AGM+ and a new BEM code, maybe its just me.

Steve.

[Sid2020]

It’s not coding, it’s a basic battery,, it supply’s no information to the car just a live and neutral. your changing the parameters in the cars computer to let it know you went from EFB to AGM, would have also had amperage information needed, nothing to do with overcharging the new battery as alternator max output  can be absorbed by the battery all Day, just like they have for years and years. The battery information is so the start start system has more information then just what voltage it detects. If you don’t supply the new information the car just doesn’t work at it’s maximum potential, it still works thou

[Stevey Y]

On 12/26/2024 at 2:46 PM, Sid2020 said:

It’s not coding, it’s a basic battery,, it supply’s no information to the car just a live and neutral. your changing the parameters in the cars computer to let it know you went from EFB to AGM, would have also had amperage information needed, nothing to do with overcharging the new battery as alternator max output  can be absorbed by the battery all Day, just like they have for years and years. The battery information is so the start start system has more information then just what voltage it detects. If you don’t supply the new information the car just doesn’t work at it’s maximum potential, it still works thou

Hi if you dont do all the right thing when changing the battery the new unit will continue to be charged at the same rate as the old battery because the information the BEM has is for the old battery, I knew my battery was on its way out as the alternator was charging at 14.5 volts continuously and when the car was off for a couple of hours the battery static reading was 11.2 volts, now we have static 12.6 volts and running 12.8 volts charging, as for the new battery absorbing all the charge you can throw at it, yes it will up to the point when It fails very prematurely within say a month if the vehicle is used daily, I can't see how you can compare the lead acid technology of years ago with the enhanced flood and AGM technology that the manufacturers helped to develop to accommodate the vast amount of background electrics [especially VAG vehicles], these need a very precise voltage continuity just to work, prime case was my neighbour who I fitted a new battery in his Q5, he had a new Varta unit fitted a month before by a mobile mechanic who told him no coding required as it sorts itself out, a month later it failed again and when he tried to return the unit to Tanya  the supplier they asked him if the battery had been put on a conventional charger to top it up, either way they rejected the warranty as the unit in their opinion had been under to great a charge rate and dried out the matting on two cells, fitted a new Yuasa with the new BEM CODE and six months down the line he is still a happy man, if you look at all the YouTube videos for this process they all come under the heading of battery coding using various software platforms, are they all Wrong.

[cliffcoggin]

While coding a battery to the car may not be a good description, it is the term used by those I have met in the trade. I have no idea how it is done but there is no doubt that the car's software needs to be informed of the batteries capacity, type, and chemistry for the charging circuitry to operate correctly. Long gone are the days of dynamos charging lead-acid batteries to any value from 12 volts to 15 volts with no impact on the battery's performance.

[Stevey Y]

3 hours ago, cliffcoggin said:

While coding a battery to the car may not be a good description, it is the term used by those I have met in the trade. I have no idea how it is done but there is no doubt that the car's software needs to be informed of the batteries capacity, type, and chemistry for the charging circuitry to operate correctly. Long gone are the days of dynamos charging lead-acid batteries to any value from 12 volts to 15 volts with no impact on the battery's performance.

Hi Cliff the whole two keys to the longevity of the new unit are the BEM code and the battery type Fleece/EFB.

Steve.

[Sid2020]

The BEM codes makes it simple to setup, pretty sure its only on VAG cars as have never been asked for it on any other manufacture car.  not all batteries come with them either 

[Magnet]

Many thanks Matt,

We can only attempt to post fact on here, and phrases such as ‘pretty sure’ should be avoided, since members requesting help depend on factual information, or inclusion of caveats such as ‘please confirm’ etc. 

Apologies for being pedantic, but the fact that you have never been asked to code ( or whatever term you wish to call it) it….. isn’t really proof positive that it doesn’t need to be carried out. That equates only to either/both yourself or the customer not appreciating that it should be carried out. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

[Sid2020]

Totally understand, only raised the battery issue due to a previous post, I carry out electrical and programming/coding repairs every day as part of my job and often use the phrase @ im sure” instead of saying “i know” as it often comes back to bite, I know that the BEM battery code is a VAG system but wouldn’t rule out a another vehicle manufacture adopting the system, sorry for any confusion as only won’t to provide help or direction to users 

[cliffcoggin]

Fair enough Matt. You probably know more about the coding aspect than I ever will, however as a chemist I do know enough to realise that one can not treat all batteries the same when it comes to charging. For example lead-acid batteries will tolerate a lot of charging abuse, calcium chloride batteries less so, while lithium batteries (particularly LMC) must be treated with kid gloves when it comes to charging. I assume that aspect is at least part of the reason for battery coding.