Throttle body

[Dale 01]

Hi

I'm changing my throttle body for a new one, what I want to know is,  are they plug and play ie already set up or do you have to "tune" them in.

I read that you can do this by turning the ignition on,  not starting the engine, and hold down the throttle pedal for 15 seconds then turn the ignition off and then start the car and it should be done.

The reason im changing it is because  sometimes it doesn't idle properly and other times it goes into limp mode with the ESP warning light coming on, I have to turn it off then turn it back on to clear it. 

I've had it on a machine and it threw up some codes, pic included.

It has a factory recall on it but Audi's wont touch it until all problems are fixed and to be honest i cannot afford their prices.

Thanks 

Dale

[Dale 01]

Hi Jason

The Spec is, Audi A3 1.6 8v 58 plate S Line

Thanks Jason i will watch the video and get back to you 

Dale 

[Dale 01]

Hi Jason

 

Haven't got back on here as im still waiting to send the throttle body back to Autodoc.

They have to be the worst company to deal with. 

Whilst im on this subject,  do you know where  or if I have a MAF sensor. 

 

Thanks 

Dale 

[Stevey Y]

32 minutes ago, Dale 01 said:

Hi Jason

 

Haven't got back on here as im still waiting to send the throttle body back to Autodoc.

They have to be the worst company to deal with. 

Whilst im on this subject,  do you know where  or if I have a MAF sensor. 

 

Thanks 

Dale 

Hi all vehicles are fitted with a MAF sensor its on the induction side between the air box and before the turbo normally a cylinder with a plug attracted to it, inside is a coated diode which is heated up and then allowed to be cooled by the incoming air this tells the ECU the temperature of the air as well as humidity, the ECU adjusts the injection accordingly based on the correlation of information from the MAP,MAF, and throttle position sensor on the peddle, all of these items need to be adapted when replaced to maintain synchronicity within the system.

Steve.

[Dale 01]

Hi Steve

 

I believe this to be the case. 

I have a 2008 1.6 8v a3 sline and have looked for it countless times ive had the pipe off between the filter and the throttle body and there's nothing there, my car is idling badly and i want to change the throttle body but Autodoc Sent the wrong one and also change the MAF if I can find it. 

Thanks Steve

Dale 

[Stevey Y]

22 hours ago, Dale 01 said:

Hi Steve

 

I believe this to be the case. 

I have a 2008 1.6 8v a3 sline and have looked for it countless times ive had the pipe off between the filter and the throttle body and there's nothing there, my car is idling badly and i want to change the throttle body but Autodoc Sent the wrong one and also change the MAF if I can find it. 

Thanks Steve

Dale 

Hi from all the parts diagrams I have looked at its right next to the airbox can you post a picture of your airbox and induction pipe its definitely there, the airbox pipework runs to the turbo not the throttle body.

Steve.

[Dale 01]

Hi Steve 

My car is petrol and does not have a turbo.

I've been reading other posts similar to mine on here and it seems that my car does not have a MAF,  which i find hard to believe,.

Im going to renew the spark plugs and leads at the weekend.

I took the throttle body off and cleaned it but to no affect. 

Baffled,  I am. 

I will post pictures of my engine very soon. 

Dale 

[Dale 01]

Hi Steve

As promised here are some pictures of my engine. 

Dale

[Stevey Y]

6 hours ago, Dale 01 said:

Hi Steve

As promised here are some pictures of my engine. 

Dale

Hi thank you for the pictures, I honestly think that the throttle body has the MAF in it but I am also concerned that the throttle position sensor on the peddle may also be at fault, its only a unit thats like old fashioned hand scales whereby the peddle pulls a spring arrangement within a sealed unit which       pulls an internal resistor past a series of contacts which register the required position of the throttle butterfly to the throttle housing.

Steve.

[Dale 01]

Hi steve 

I have a friend who says he's going to reset the throttle body on sat afternoon. 

I had the EPC ( Electronic Power Control ) light come up on the dashboard snd when I looked it up it said that it indicates a problem with the vehicles throttle system which could include the accelerator pedal, fuel injection throttle body.

I'll keep you informed 

Thanks 

Dale 

[Dale 01]

Hi Steve

Sorry to bother you again but do you know what this is on the engine that i have circled in blue, it has a pipe from the air filter box and electrical wires coming out the back. 

Thanks 

Dale 

[Stevey Y]

19 hours ago, Dale 01 said:

Hi Steve

Sorry to bother you again but do you know what this is on the engine that i have circled in blue, it has a pipe from the air filter box and electrical wires coming out the back. 

Thanks 

Dale 

Hi Dale, from memory I think its part of the fuel vapour purge system this collects vapour from the system filters out any bits and re burns the vapour, all part of the wonderful emissions control. I think the reset will prove useful as my neighbour had similar symptoms on his old Polo after he had fitted a new throttle body it ran like a bag of nails until we readapted the new body, in saying that if it still wont run properly it probably is either the body or the position sensor, not much help but at least it will narrow it down, again from memory the position sensor on the peddle is plug in and play as its only a slave unit for the throttle body.

Steve.

 

 

[Dale 01]

Hi steve 

Ok thanks for the info, I will keep you informed with the progress 

Dale 

[Stevey Y]

8 minutes ago, Dale 01 said:

Hi steve 

Ok thanks for the info, I will keep you informed with the progress 

Dale 

Hi would be nice if we can get a positive result for you, I honestly think you are not far off of cracking this one with the help of your friend, tell him to have a look at the live data for the throttle body as this should tell you if its the body or the position sensor.

Steve.

[Dale 01]

Hi Steve

Still haven't forgotten about keeping you informed but my friend still hasn't gotten back to me yet but we have both decided that a new throttle body is the step forward  

 

As before i will keep you informed 

 

Dale 

[Dale 01]

Hi steve

As per earlier conversation,.

I changed the throttle body for a new one and it got worse so we put the old one back on, ive recently changed the coil pack as the old one was corroded and also change the leads for new ones, it still runs a bit lumpy so i put a new MAP sensor on the engine but to no avail. It still hunts when im sat at lights etc also the ESP light is on now and ive been told that the ESP also controls the throttle. 

Any more ides mate.

Thanks in advance 

Dale 

[Stevey Y]

1 hour ago, Dale 01 said:

Hi steve

As per earlier conversation,.

I changed the throttle body for a new one and it got worse so we put the old one back on, ive recently changed the coil pack as the old one was corroded and also change the leads for new ones, it still runs a bit lumpy so i put a new MAP sensor on the engine but to no avail. It still hunts when im sat at lights etc also the ESP light is on now and ive been told that the ESP also controls the throttle. 

Any more ides mate.

Thanks in advance 

Dale 

Hi my thoughts are that it is the position sensor on the actual throttle pedal itself, drawn to that conclusion by the new throttle body not working, sounds as though the sensor is sending wear related corrupt position signals.

Steve.

[Dale 01]

Hi Steve

That was my next investigation,  would I need a computer to turn off ESP light or do simply change the wheel sensors. 

As always I'll keep you in the loop.

Cheers mate 

Dale

[Dale 01]

Hi Steve

Well she's fixed and runs like a brand new car, I had to bite the bullet and ask an Audi mechanic for help who is actually a good friend,  he took the car in his garage for a diagnosis and found a number of issues,  firstly the inlet manifold was leaking and sucking in air and moisture then the new coil pack i fitted was faulty,  the injector seals had gone and a wire to injector number 2 was corroded, which is quite common im told, the whole bill including the diagnosis was £300 which I think is great,  as they say it always pays to know someone in the trade, she now runs really smooth and idles perfectly 👌 I have no lights on the dashboard which is great to see, now I can concentrate on the lights, im sure the person or the person before him have played around with something to do with the lights as the rear lights are LED but the whole light including the fog light are on and the front the indicator lights are on (pics included) he's put resistors on both headlights so that i get corner lights,  to be fair I'm not that overly concerned with the front it's the rear lights,  I just want them working as they should, any suggestions would be greatly welcome. 

Thanks 

Dale 

 

[cliffcoggin]

Glad to hear you have solved the problem, and thanks for letting us know. It may well help others.

Unfortunately your modified lights may fail an MOT test, but wait for a better opinion from Steve before doing anything.

[Dale 01]

Hi Cliff

I was told on here that some A3's are like that (but i have never ever seen another one) and that the bulbs are on an 8 volt supply and when you put your foot on the brake it switches to 12 volts and the bulbs glow brighter (as brake lights) and the same for the fog lights as indeed they all do

The car did pass the mot test with these in February. 

But what i dont get is that if the car has led at the rear then the rest of the lights should not be on unless i brake or use the fogs.

Thanks Cliff

Dale 

[cliffcoggin]

40 minutes ago, Dale 01 said:

The car did pass the mot test with these in February. 

Fair enough Dale. I know there are complications when converting non-original lights, but as it was never relevant to my car I have not kept up to date.

[Dale 01]

Ok thankyou Cliff