Brake Calliper Part Number Query?

[m33ufo]

The rear near side brake calliper on my 2013 A3 2.0TDi is binding. I've taken a photo of the part number, 5Q0 615 405. My question is, will any calliper with this part number fit? Is the "AM" in the photo relevant?

Any assistance appreciated. 

 

 

[m33ufo]

Hi Jason. 

I have new rear discs and pads ready to fit. I noticed excessive wear to the near side pads and it appears that the near side calliper is binding. I'd like to resolve this problem as simply as possible so was going to change the calliper before changing discs and pads. 

[m33ufo]

It's an 8V with EPB. 

One question....will a new calliper require coding to the car?

[Stevey Y]

21 hours ago, m33ufo said:

The rear near side brake calliper on my 2013 A3 2.0TDi is binding. I've taken a photo of the part number, 5Q0 615 405. My question is, will any calliper with this part number fit? Is the "AM" in the photo relevant?

Any assistance appreciated. 

 

 

 

 

21 hours ago, m33ufo said:

The rear near side brake calliper on my 2013 A3 2.0TDi is binding. I've taken a photo of the part number, 5Q0 615 405. My question is, will any calliper with this part number fit? Is the "AM" in the photo relevant?

Any assistance appreciated. 

 

 

 

Hi Mark what you have posted is a picture of the drive motor code but I expect Jason already knew that but forgot to mention it, if your new calipers have the drive motor attached they should be plug in and play as most aftermarket rigs like this are fitted with an electrical shunt, you could always use the callipers without the motors if yours are working ok and just bolt your motors to the new caliper these units tend to be a lot cheaper.

[m33ufo]

1 hour ago, Stevey Y said:

 

Hi Mark what you have posted is a picture of the drive motor code but I expect Jason already knew that but forgot to mention it, if your new calipers have the drive motor attached they should be plug in and play as most aftermarket rigs like this are fitted with an electrical shunt, you could always use the callipers without the motors if yours are working ok and just bolt your motors to the new caliper these units tend to be a lot cheaper.

Thanks for this. 

I may try replacing just the calliper and retain my existing actuator. Question....if I remove the whole of my existing calliper assembly to swap over the calliper, will I encounter any issues when reconnecting the wiring? Or perhaps I should keep the actuator plugged in to avoid any possible problems?

 

Thanks. 

Edited March 7 by m33ufo

[enc]

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. 
searching around I found prices to be all over the place. 
 

you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! 
 

prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. 
 

I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. 
I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. 
 

i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? 
 

I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.  

Edited March 8 by enc

[Stevey Y]

21 hours ago, m33ufo said:

Thanks for this. 

I may try replacing just the calliper and retain my existing actuator. Question....if I remove the whole of my existing calliper assembly to swap over the calliper, will I encounter any issues when reconnecting the wiring? Or perhaps I should keep the actuator plugged in to avoid any possible problems?

 

21 hours ago, m33ufo said:

Thanks for this. 

I may try replacing just the calliper and retain my existing actuator. Question....if I remove the whole of my existing calliper assembly to swap over the calliper, will I encounter any issues when reconnecting the wiring? Or perhaps I should keep the actuator plugged in to avoid any possible problems?

 

Thanks. 

Thanks. 

Hi you can just separate the two with the original connection left plugged in I have always done this in the past as some of the cheaper units have had problems with the electronics in the drive motor, I have been thinking very hard on this and have another possible solution, when you said the calliper was binding did you mean that the wheel resists being turned by hand with the car jacked up and no parking brake?, if so check the following before condemning the calliper, there are slider pins on the top and bottom of the unit these are in a rubber boot assembly, retract the the EPB and take the securing bolts out, with the calliper clear test the movement of the pins in the rubber boots there should be very little resistance to you pulling them in and out, if there is chances are the pins are dry or worn and will hold one side of the pad set on normally the piston side, repair kits are plentiful and cheap, the other consideration is how long have the old pads been in situ as I have found through experience that on cars that only do average milage over years the pad location runners tend to corrode to the carrier so the piston side wears faster as the crud on the outer runners prevent the outer pad from pulling in as much  so its all on the piston side, so worth stripping and cleaning as it may well cure your problem without the need for a new calliper, brake fluid change highly recommended.

Steve.

[m33ufo]

6 hours ago, enc said:

Last month I had a rear caliper fitted to my 1.4tfsi. It has an EP brake. 
searching around I found prices to be all over the place. 
 

you can get them new (with motor) from eBay for about £90! 
 

prices go over £300 plus… and some vendors charge a surcharge for your old caluper. 
 

I settled on one for £177 inc vat. (No surcharge) from brakes international. 
I paid £80 labour to have it fitted at a local Audi specialist. 
 

i dint look to buy a caliper without motor .. I wasn’t aware this was an option !?? 
 

I guess if money is no object, you could replace both callipers at the same time but callipers do not necessarily require changing in pairs based on the off chance the one not replaced is going to fail any time soon.  

 

Appreciated, thank you 👍

[m33ufo]

43 minutes ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi you can just separate the two with the original connection left plugged in I have always done this in the past as some of the cheaper units have had problems with the electronics in the drive motor, I have been thinking very hard on this and have another possible solution, when you said the calliper was binding did you mean that the wheel resists being turned by hand with the car jacked up and no parking brake?, if so check the following before condemning the calliper, there are slider pins on the top and bottom of the unit these are in a rubber boot assembly, retract the the EPB and take the securing bolts out, with the calliper clear test the movement of the pins in the rubber boots there should be very little resistance to you pulling them in and out, if there is chances are the pins are dry or worn and will hold one side of the pad set on normally the piston side, repair kits are plentiful and cheap, the other consideration is how long have the old pads been in situ as I have found through experience that on cars that only do average milage over years the pad location runners tend to corrode to the carrier so the piston side wears faster as the crud on the outer runners prevent the outer pad from pulling in as much  so its all on the piston side, so worth stripping and cleaning as it may well cure your problem without the need for a new calliper, brake fluid change highly recommended.

Steve.

Thanks again Steve. 

My symptoms are....

Increased wear on the near side rear pads - this is actually most pronounced on the outboard pad and disc face, The inboard pad and disc face looks normal. 

I replaced rear discs and pads just 8 months (5,000 miles), ago. The offside is in good shape. I could smell the hot pad material recently which was why I investigated. 

I've actually ordered a new complete calliper. Should arrive over the weekend or Monday. 

Cheers. 

[Stevey Y]

4 minutes ago, m33ufo said:

Thanks again Steve. 

My symptoms are....

Increased wear on the near side rear pads - this is actually most pronounced on the outboard pad and disc face, The inboard pad and disc face looks normal. 

I replaced rear discs and pads just 8 months (5,000 miles), ago. The offside is in good shape. I could smell the hot pad material recently which was why I investigated. 

I've actually ordered a new complete calliper. Should arrive over the weekend or Monday. 

Cheers. 

Hi sounds like you have done all the basics, well done, please report the end result as it makes good reading for anyone with the same problem in the future.

Steve.

 

[m33ufo]

On 3/8/2024 at 7:42 PM, Stevey Y said:

Hi sounds like you have done all the basics, well done, please report the end result as it makes good reading for anyone with the same problem in the future.

Steve.

 

All went smoothly. No issues with coding. I ended up changing the complete calliper and actuator assembly - the new  one feels super smooth in comparison to the original. 

Thanks for your assistance. 

[Stevey Y]

2 minutes ago, m33ufo said:

All went smoothly. No issues with coding. I ended up changing the complete calliper and actuator assembly - the new  one feels super smooth in comparison to the original. 

Thanks for your assistance. 

Hi on the contrary, thank you for posting your resolution as it gives the other people who read this a chance, as so many people just fix the problem and never post the resolution, its like watching a really good film and the TV packs up fifteen mins from the end, I wasn't quite sure about the coding at first and then dredged my memory about the electrical shunt which I was told about a long time ago, it performs the way a can bus does by fooling the control module in to thinking its the original, this is also done on most aftermarket alternators to get round the coding drama. 

Regards Steve.