PeteKS Posted May 24 Posted May 24 My coupe suddenly won’t start, no spark. Tried new coil and amplifier switch, still no joy. It has been starting fine and just suddenly won’t?? Am I missing something? (Probably)!
Damage1_1 Posted June 25 Posted June 25 Cars don't often just stop starting. Was it playing up previously? Can you feel the fuel line when the ignition is turned on/off. I would also refit the original parts as you guessed they were faulty and probably weren't.
Steve Q Posted June 25 Posted June 25 I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. This could be an imobiliser issue.
Magnet Posted June 25 Posted June 25 Thanks Roger, but irrespective of whether it’s getting fuel or not, it hasn’t got a spark at the plugs. Pete- do you have a wiring diagram for the car? Guess this car should come the period when Haynes manuals were published. You have obviously spent money so far without success. To avoid further unnecessary expense, I would now consider employing the services of a trusted local auto electrician. Perhaps you can keep us updated. Kind regards, Gareth. 1
cliffcoggin Posted June 25 Posted June 25 In the absense of any information regarding a diagnosis I suggest consulting a mechanic who can test the electronics. To simply throw new parts at the car in the hope it will solve the problem could cost you than the price of a new car.
PeteKS Posted June 25 Author Posted June 25 Thanks all for your good advice, I have now had an auto electrician look over it and he confirmed dead distributor. I have spent several hours and a tin of WD40 getting the blasted thing out so I’m now armed with the part number. A friend of mine has suggested I could possibly replace just the hall sensor?? Just got to get to it now as everything seems seized!
cliffcoggin Posted June 25 Posted June 25 If the distributor is seized you had better replace the whole thing. And if the drive gear at the bottom is broken you may also have to remove the sump to retrieve the broken metal.
PeteKS Posted June 25 Author Posted June 25 42 minutes ago, cliffcoggin said: If the distributor is seized you had better replace the whole thing. And if the drive gear at the bottom is broken you may also have to remove the sump to retrieve the broken metal.
PeteKS Posted June 25 Author Posted June 25 Sorry when I say seized I mean the distributor was very hard to get out, and the circular dish cover over the hall sensor is stuck on currently. The gear is all fine
PeteKS Posted June 25 Author Posted June 25 3 hours ago, Magnet said: Thanks Roger, but irrespective of whether it’s getting fuel or not, it hasn’t got a spark at the plugs. Pete- do you have a wiring diagram for the car? Guess this car should come the period when Haynes manuals were published. You have obviously spent money so far without success. To avoid further unnecessary expense, I would now consider employing the services of a trusted local auto electrician. Perhaps you can keep us updated. Kind regards, Gareth. Thanks Gareth, update posted.
Magnet Posted June 26 Posted June 26 Thanks Pete, What is a ‘hall’ sensor? Looks like you now need an electronic ignition specialist supplier for parts - worth Googling. There is the Distributor Doctor in West Country or was it Wiltshire? Almost certain to be too earlier for his normal points and condenser type, but he maybe a good source of advice on who to contact - very knowledgeable chap. Kind regards, Gareth.
Stevey Y Posted June 27 Posted June 27 On 6/26/2024 at 7:19 AM, Magnet said: Thanks Pete, What is a ‘hall’ sensor? Looks like you now need an electronic ignition specialist supplier for parts - worth Googling. There is the Distributor Doctor in West Country or was it Wiltshire? Almost certain to be too earlier for his normal points and condenser type, but he maybe a good source of advice on who to contact - very knowledgeable chap. Kind regards, Gareth. Hi Gareth the Hall Sensor is the electronic pick up for the electronic ignition it picks up the metal shafts high points in the middle of the distributors driven shaft, if he can't find one he could try Lumenition as this works on light optics and the beam is broken by a fan type blade that sits just below the rotor arm, this type of system also negates any lateral wear on the distributor shaft. Steve.
Magnet Posted June 27 Posted June 27 Hello Steve, Another school day for me! Many thanks for the explanation, since I hadn’t come across this term before for the ‘signaller’ device. Again, I hadn’t thought of Lumenition - should indeed be a good contact for Pete. Great. Take care Steve, Kind regards, Gareth.
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