Corbo36 Posted September 9 Posted September 9 Hi all, Rear window demister has stopped working. Trying to find the fuse to check it but not sure where to look in the boot for it, and what amp it is. Button is working and goes off at normal time interval. Cant see any breaks in the element either
Magnet Posted September 10 Posted September 10 Hello Paul, Fuses blow to protect the wiring if the is a short circuit in the wiring. They just don’t blow without there being a fault. Can we take it you have a handbook for the car, and you have checked for fuse locations in there? Kind regards, Gareth. 1
Corbo36 Posted September 10 Author Posted September 10 Yes i have a handbook and that pointed me to the fuse box in the boot. Checked all fuses except for one 40amp square fuse. Couldnt get it to pull out and didnt want to force it incase i damaged it
Magnet Posted September 10 Posted September 10 Thanks, so the appropriate fuse was in tack then -? If so, I would suspect a break in the elements. Have you got a multi meter to test it for continuity? Kind regards, Gareth.
cliffcoggin Posted September 10 Posted September 10 If that is the relevant fuse, and I can't think of anything else on the car that might need a 40 amp rating, it may have melted or blown itself apart. I don't know how to extract it without damaging the fusebox but it does need to be tested. Can you get to the terminals with a meter?
Corbo36 Posted September 10 Author Posted September 10 Sorry fellas, just home from work. Had a look in passenger footwell fusebox as well, couple of 30amp and 40amp fuses in there but look to be ok. Dont have a fuse puller so dont want to use pliers to pull out the fuse. Have attached photo to show 40amp fuse in boot
Corbo36 Posted September 10 Author Posted September 10 Just had someone check all fuses with a meter and all seem ok. Also checked the connections at the window on each side but nothing when heater was turned on. Also didnt hear any click from the relay in the boot when heater was turned on
cliffcoggin Posted September 10 Posted September 10 While you still have the meter there are two further tests worth doing: /1 Measure the continuity through the element at its terminals with electrical power turned off. No continuity means the element is broken. 2/ Measure the voltage at the element terminals when it is switched on. No voltage confirms no supply. That means you need to work back to the relay, the fuse, and the switch. 1
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