Wheel bearing torque settings

[ScotAUDI]

As title, does anyone have any idea of the torques required on the bolts to replace the front wheel bearing please? 

I am replacing the flange and bearing as a ‘kit’. Unsure where to find the correct settings.

[Magnet]

Welcome Dean, and thanks for joining. 
I’ve seen 200Nm + 180 degrees quoted, but you would be wise to check that that figure is correct. 
The best source of information would be Autodata, but you would need to find a friendly garage who would look it up for you. 
Perhaps you would let us know how you get on. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

[spartacus 68]

80Nm + 90 degrees for the bearing and carrier triple square bolts. Personally only fit a quality bearing, such as F.A.G. or similar, that will be OE. Make sure the hub face is spotless before torquing up the new bearing and carrier flange. There will be aluminium oxide when the old one is removed, but a wire brush assembly on a drill is perfect.

For the driveshaft bolt, it’s 200Nm plus 180 degrees. Importantly, the axle cannot be on the weight of the vehicle. More details here. 

 

 

Edited December 28, 2024 by spartacus 68

[ScotAUDI]

19 hours ago, spartacus 68 said:

80Nm + 90 degrees for the bearing and carrier triple square bolts. Personally only fit a quality bearing, such as F.A.G. or similar, that will be OE. Make sure the hub face is spotless before torquing up the new bearing and carrier flange. There will be aluminium oxide when the old one is removed, but a wire brush assembly on a drill is perfect.

For the driveshaft bolt, it’s 200Nm plus 180 degrees. Importantly, the axle cannot be on the weight of the vehicle. More details here. 

 

 

Awesome, thanks - great video. I’ve ordered an SKF bearing and flange kit from AUTODOC. First time using their services but believe it’s a quality part. Hopefully won’t be hit with any of the dispatch issues they can sometimes have. 
I also have an option of using euro car parts for an optimal setup if required. 

need the flange and bearing already pressed as don’t have the extraction or pressing tools- but more expensive, but far easier for me. 

thanks for the info though, much appreciated. 

[spartacus 68]

SKF and F.A.G. are owned by the same business I think. Autodoc is good, but be prepared for a wait, especially at this time of year. Only issue you may have is separating it from the hub. You will undoubtedly have aluminium oxide corrosion. I used air hammer to separate. A big hammer will work, as you're not pressing in the new bearing. Clean area with a wire brush and especially the ends of the triple square bolts, PlusGas to lube, etc.

Edited December 29, 2024 by spartacus 68

[ScotAUDI]

I have an email saying it’s been sent to evri. Hopefully get it soon. 
yea, will just use WD-40,  but might need a bit persuasion, will give myself a full day to do the job so no need to rush etc. would like it done before going back to work post festive holidays! 
Will keep the thread upto date with progress. 

[ScotAUDI]

Just an update on this...

I gave it a bash - but no success. The corrosion on the brake calliper carrier bolts was enough to stop the job. 

I parked the car up and got my mechanic mate to sort it over the weekend. He came, got the car and went off and fixed it. He ended up resorting to heat and even had to cut one of the brake calliper carrier bolts out. 

Just a note to self that even though this looks like a pretty simple job.... 12 years and 120,000 miles of road salt and whatever else on parts like this which are close to the road can make a simple job a bit more complex! 

 

[spartacus 68]

3 hours ago, ScotAUDI said:

Just a note to self that even though this looks like a pretty simple job.... 12 years and 120,000 miles of road salt and whatever else on parts like this which are close to the road can make a simple job a bit more complex! 

Can understand that. I was doing a brake strip down on my 7 year old B9 A4 with 60k miles in the summer and carrier bolts were seized solid. Tried an air gun and spanner and jack approach, but no success. Because of their location it’s difficult to get a breaker bar on them, unless the car is lifted. In the end, bought new bolts from Audi and got local garage to remove the old ones. Fitted new bolts with a smear of anti seize ceramic paste.