A4 Avant buying advise

[Ninja]

Hi all,

I'm looking at spending around 14k on an Avant..... lots of models available but I'm not sure on the gearboxes...are the manuals better than the autos for reliability?

My heart says a 3.0d Quattro but I don't want anything to go horribly wring and have £1000's in costs????

Any advise,  greatly received. 

Thank you all

[spartacus 68]

Interesting.

2014 is B8. Solid cars. Personally stick to 6-speed manual (177PS diesel turbo). Good workhorses. If you can get Quattro, then all the better plus get one with a decent sound system. Avoid panoramic, it will leak like a sieve.

You want history and lots of it. 2.0TDI is fairly bullet proof. Suspension can be an issue, so budget for an overhaul given this is a 10 year old car. Meyle HD, you get kits, that will transform it.

Weak points, alloy engine cradle, rear spring mounts, sticky brake calipers (I’m picking faults here), subframe corrosion. Plus points, and one to include, get xenon headlights. Avoid old technology halogen that will be lucky to light up your porch.

Edited February 15 by spartacus 68

[Steve Q]

Che k buyers guides on YouTube. Che k service history for proof of Cambelt and water pump changes, gearbox oil services etc. Make sure heater works and is consistent through all vents for heat as this could be a sign of a blocked heater matrix. Make such a works properly as a compressors can be expensive. 

[Ninja]

Thank you both...I'll avoid the pan roof if they are problematic and check the heaters and AC as suggested.

It was a 2016/2017 i was looking at so the B9? Manual boxes much more reliable than the autos? 

[spartacus 68]

Sorry, I’ve picked you up wrong Ninja. It’s a B9 you’re looking for with £14k to spend.

If you still want 3.0TDI, then Tiptronic gearbox is the one to go for. That will be mated to 272hp (200kw) 6 cylinder engine. Pulls like a locomotive.

I’ll be honest, your budget needs increase. You’d be looking at closer to £17k which would get you 16-17 plate on around 75k miles.

History is absolutely critical. Avoid cars on long service regimes with oil changes every 18k miles. In addition, specification varies. Audi were tight as a gnat’s chuff with extras and they started adding bundles such as sound and comfort packs.

When I looked for mine, I wanted it in Allroad Sport version, (as I’d come from same car in B8) with panoramic (panoramic leaks aren’t common on B9), electric towbar, leather, heated front seats, Sat Nav, and virtual cockpit. Colour was important too, I didn’t want black. I found a mint example in Scuba Blue, but Gotland Green is very rare colour option. I found one at the other end of the country but couldn’t live with a cream leather interior!

Here’s 2017 brochure: https://autocatalogarchive.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Audi-A4-Allroad-2017-UK.pdf

I’m spanner handy so have VCDS for servicing.

Good luck with your search.

Edited February 16 by spartacus 68

[Ninja]

Thank you...very useful.

Tiptronic...is that the S Tronic? 

Like I said, not sure whether to go for the 2d manual or 3d auto? its reliability is tye key factor really.

[spartacus 68]

No S Tronic is dual clutch, 7 speed used on 3.0TDI 218hp model. Tiptronic is single clutch with torque convertor and 8 speed.

Both need serviced. S Tronic every 38k miles. Tiptronic then Audi will say sealed for life. I don't buy that as there's a ZF8 maintenance kit specifically for it, so I did it earlier this year when it turned 60k miles.

Absolutely critical these boxes are maintained as auto gearbox replacement is ridiculously expensive.

On quattro, the rear diff gear oil should be changed too anywhere from 60-80k miles.

[Cb1992]

I have a 2017 B9 avant (190bhp 2.0tdi) 2WD with the 7speed DSG. Car is on 124k miles and gearbox has never skipped a beat. Gearbox has had all its regular gearbox oil changes though when due, so would at least look for that in the service history, and a timing belt depending on age/mileage.

 

On thing to note is these cars suffer from adblue fault, where it throws up the EML and requires sorting. You will see regular threads including mine. Not sure if this was rectified with the facelifts but worse case scenario you need a new adblue tank system which is pricey. Not sure how common it is in reality as out of the thousands of these cars on the roads even the 50-100 threads online isn’t much in comparison but definitely something to look out for in the service history if it’s been replaced.

I have really enjoyed the A4 though and has been very reliable for the most part. The 2.0tdi 190 isn’t really fast, but not slow either and good compromise for economy. 

[JulianCarter]

On 2/15/2025 at 7:36 PM, Ninja said:

Hi all,

I'm looking at spending around 14k on an Avant..... lots of models available but I'm not sure on the gearboxes...are the manuals better than the autos for reliability?

My heart says a 3.0d Quattro but I don't want anything to go horribly wring and have £1000's in costs????

Any advise,  greatly received. 

Thank you all

I have had an A4 Avant Quattro 3.0d for 8 years, and it’s the best car I’ve ever had, better than three Mercs and a Range Rover that I’ve owned. I love it! But I’m having the famous Adblue problem for the second time. The first time it cleared itself, but this time I got down to ‘150 miles before no re start’. My local Audi dealer has quoted me £2.5k to replace the tank and sensor, but warns that this may note solvent the whole problem, because there are other potential faults in the system. How come they can’t diagnose the actual problem. How much could this end up costing, and is it worth doing?

[spartacus 68]

5 hours ago, JulianCarter said:

I have had an A4 Avant Quattro 3.0d for 8 years, and it’s the best car I’ve ever had, better than three Mercs and a Range Rover that I’ve owned. I love it! But I’m having the famous Adblue problem for the second time. The first time it cleared itself, but this time I got down to ‘150 miles before no re start’. My local Audi dealer has quoted me £2.5k to replace the tank and sensor, but warns that this may note solvent the whole problem, because there are other potential faults in the system. How come they can’t diagnose the actual problem. How much could this end up costing, and is it worth doing?

Personally I’d avoid using the main dealer, but you’re over a barrel here. Their labour rates are exorbitantly high, plus you’re now dealing with non experienced technicians that follow a prescribed digital process from Germany. BMW went down the same route years ago. As the customer you fund the process with new parts until they eventually resolve the issue. 

AdBlue is likely to be the integral tank, heater, sensor and pump. It’s a sealed unit and the electronic sensor is part of it. There’s also a AdBlue injector near the exhaust catalytic converter that could be crystallised.  Personally I’d be looking at that first and follow process of elimination. VCDS may give you specific error codes to search against. My understanding is tank is updates on the car’s ECU using ODIS dealer level software.

As it’s Euro 6 diesel, what else can you do? Some folk might say just delete it, including EGR and DPF. First off that’s an MOT fail if identified, plus the AdBlue is reducing emissions.

[JulianCarter]

14 hours ago, spartacus 68 said:

Personally I’d avoid using the main dealer, but you’re over a barrel here. Their labour rates are exorbitantly high, plus you’re now dealing with non experienced technicians that follow a prescribed digital process from Germany. BMW went down the same route years ago. As the customer you fund the process with new parts until they eventually resolve the issue. 

AdBlue is likely to be the integral tank, heater, sensor and pump. It’s a sealed unit and the electronic sensor is part of it. There’s also a AdBlue injector near the exhaust catalytic converter that could be crystallised.  Personally I’d be looking at that first and follow process of elimination. VCDS may give you specific error codes to search against. My understanding is tank is updates on the car’s ECU using ODIS dealer level software.

As it’s Euro 6 diesel, what else can you do? Some folk might say just delete it, including EGR and DPF. First off that’s an MOT fail if identified, plus the AdBlue is reducing emissions.

Thank you Spartacus. Much appreciated!

[Ninja]

Very interesting.....i imagine most modern-ish vehicles are all running adblue...MB, VW, BMW etc?

I'm still on the hunt and I'm now thinking the 190 manual as although I'd prefer the 3.0d, the fuel economy is quite important.

Only reason for the manual is potentially cheaper repair bills if something is to happen with the gearbox.

[spartacus 68]

Just looked on Autotrader so £14k gets you a manual (66 plate) 2017, S Line Avant with around 65-80k miles. That’s the 2.0 TDI (190PS), £35 road tax, etc. That’s without Quattro.

Nothing wrong with manual 6-speed, but you’re reducing the potential number of cars with any searches. Again, absolutely nothing wrong with S Tronic box as long as it’s been serviced. So every 38k miles.

With 2.0TDI, whether low mileage or average miles say up to 80k, then timing belt and water pump need to have been done. Factor this in would be my advice, and replace every 5 years.

If you do same search with S Tronic Quattro you can get 17 plate with around 60-70k miles for around £16k. Road tax now £190.
 

[cliffcoggin]

2 hours ago, Ninja said:

Only reason for the manual is potentially cheaper repair bills if something is to happen with the gearbox.

That's an odd reason. You could apply the same rationale to any other part of the car such as the engine or the suspension or the electronic systems.

As long as the gearbox of any propective purchase has been correctly serviced you should have no qualms about it.

[Stevey Y]

20 minutes ago, spartacus 68 said:

Just looked on Autotrader so £14k gets you a manual (66 plate) 2017, S Line Avant with around 65-80k miles. That’s the 2.0 TDI (190PS), £35 road tax, etc. That’s without Quattro.

Nothing wrong with manual 6-speed, but you’re reducing the potential number of cars with any searches. Again, absolutely nothing wrong with S Tronic box as long as it’s been serviced. So every 38k miles.

With 2.0TDI, whether low mileage or average miles say up to 80k, then timing belt and water pump need to have been done. Factor this in would be my advice, and replace every 5 years.

If you do same search with S Tronic Quattro you can get 17 plate with around 60-70k miles for around £16k. Road tax now £190.
 

Hi surprised no one has mentioned the dreaded low pressure EGR cooler thats common over the whole range of 2.0 engines CNHA,DETA .....what a hoot at around £600 for the parts and then the various gearbox seals etc, not to mention eight hours plus on the labour.

Steve. 

[spartacus 68]

True Stevie, but if you start listing every potential diesel issue you’d never buy one.

This will be my last diesel. Have come from Audi 80 1.9 TDI, wife had A2 1.4 TDI, then A4 2.5 TDI Quattro, then Allroad 2.0TDI and my current Allroad 3.0 TDI. Throw in a couple of daily drivers including a Skoda Fabia 1.4 TDI and Polo 1.4 TDI.

What are the advantages? Better fuel economy, low end torque, engine longevity? All my previous Audis were at 150k plus, except my B8 Allroad which was just 65k miles and treated like a princess. My daily commute before Covid was 50 miles.

Euro 6 technology pushed diesel technology to the limits. Yes you can have lower emissions, but VAG engineers left potential ticking time bomb with EGR valves and AdBlue tanks.

What’s the option? Petrol? Forums are littered with excessive oil consumption threads or disintegrating rocker arm needle bearings. Electric, well funny you should mention that, wife now has BMW i3 REx, so hybrid. Cracking little car, but it has its quirks.

You have a couple of options and this has stood me well. Service it within an inch of its life. On 2.0TDI, then 8-10k oil changes miles. Fuel filter ever 20k miles. Run a can of Forte diesel conditioner through it under 1/4 tank and drive it like you stole it. Always get to temperature and use on journeys of up to 1 hour  minimum 2-3 days a week. Use premium diesel every few tanks.

If you’re spanner handy, get VCDS. I changed my attitude about mechanics when I was a nipper (circa late 90s) and discovered a ratchet still attached to the underside of my mum’s Vauxhall Astra 1.8 CD (incidentally not a diesel). Returned it to the service desk with a curt “I believe this is yours!”

 

Edited 23 hours ago by spartacus 68

[Stevey Y]

21 hours ago, spartacus 68 said:

True Stevie, but if you start listing every potential diesel issue you’d never buy one.

This will be my last diesel. Have come from Audi 80 1.9 TDI, wife had A2 1.4 TDI, then A4 2.5 TDI Quattro, then Allroad 2.0TDI and my current Allroad 3.0 TDI. Throw in a couple of daily drivers including a Skoda Fabia 1.4 TDI and Polo 1.4 TDI.

What are the advantages? Better fuel economy, low end torque, engine longevity? All my previous Audis were at 150k plus, except my B8 Allroad which was just 65k miles and treated like a princess. My daily commute before Covid was 50 miles.

Euro 6 technology pushed diesel technology to the limits. Yes you can have lower emissions, but VAG engineers left potential ticking time bomb with EGR valves and AdBlue tanks.

What’s the option? Petrol? Forums are littered with excessive oil consumption threads or disintegrating rocker arm needle bearings. Electric, well funny you should mention that, wife now has BMW i3 REx, so hybrid. Cracking little car, but it has its quirks.

You have a couple of options and this has stood me well. Service it within an inch of its life. On 2.0TDI, then 8-10k oil changes miles. Fuel filter ever 20k miles. Run a can of Forte diesel conditioner through it under 1/4 tank and drive it like you stole it. Always get to temperature and use on journeys of up to 1 hour  minimum 2-3 days a week. Use premium diesel every few tanks.

If you’re spanner handy, get VCDS. I changed my attitude about mechanics when I was a nipper (circa late 90s) and discovered a ratchet still attached to the underside of my mum’s Vauxhall Astra 1.8 CD (incidentally not a diesel). Returned it to the service desk with a curt “I believe this is yours!”

 

Hi yes I agree with what you say in principle but the poster was asking what are the likely problems owning that model within a certain year band, the problem I quoted will happen at some point I had three coolers over 270k and it did not matter how much chemistry/care I lavished on the car that problem still persisted, there are legions of posts on this site about adblue and cooler problems its an inherent flaw with Audi A4/A6 within those years which is very much peculiar to the brand, you can't generalise its VAG engineering, no its Audi engineering, dont get me wrong I loved my car but over the miles the costs are prohibitive, ask yourself the question why are these cars being sold at around 80k, answer its around 80-100k the real fun and expense begins, I now have a VW Passat as a cab had it from 60k now on 100k and in terms of reliability and part costs it knocks spots off of the Audi and I would say in sports mode very little to choose between the two power wise as you are not dragging along all that weight.

Steve.