No temperature gauge, fuel gauge, speedometer or screen!

[EmilyBrown1995]

Hi all, 

 

Last week my key stopped working - I got a replacement battery for it, however couldn't get it reprogrammed to the car - on Saturday, my partner took my spare key with a new battery in it and eventually got it programmed to the car. Left it parked up on Sunday (we experienced very heavy rain down in Cornwall) then this morning I started my car and neither my fuel gauge, temperature gauge, speedometer or digital screen are working - see attached files - all the normal warning flights flash up and come off as normal, my car starts and drives fine, the indicator and seat belt warning lights show as normal, however neither of this make any sound!? Radio is working however the time is now wrong on it...? Plugged it into my scanner, no codes returned, checked the fuse box and the fuse for what is apparently for the instrument cluster seems fine? Ran a voltage test with my scanner, 12.2V whilst resting and 14.6V when driving - mechanic at work got fairly low amps from it, though - he tried doing a battery jump, I turned the car on and still none of the dials/gauges are working - he is going to charge the battery for a few hours in the meantime. Can anyone shed any light? I could send the instrument cluster off to ECUTesting but will still cost me more in the long run if that's not the issue... as on their website they describe the symptoms of a bad cluster as being the car cutting out/not being able to start? But mine is starting and driving fine? Not sure if it's worth mentioning but recently the indicator sound has been very intermittent in my car...

 

Any help much appreciated!

 

Em

[cliffcoggin]

Emily.

Two possibilities come to mind:

[1] The instrument panel may be faulty even if the engine stills starts. The only way to be certain is to send it to ECU for testing.

[2] The 12 volt battery may be defective despite showing 12.2 volts. Your mechanic was on to something when he found low amps from it.

Of the two I favour the battery. Winter always highlights deficiencies in battery capacity, so I suggest you get it professionally tested. If a new battery is required ensure you get it coded to the car.

[EmilyBrown1995]

Thanks Cliff - appreciate that! I can see that the battery was replaced in 2018, but it's an aftermarket 'Lion' battery, which I've heard mixed reviews about!

 

Will report back later when I pick it up after it's been charged - would you advise replacing battery first? 🙂

 

Em

[cliffcoggin]

1 hour ago, EmilyBrown1995 said:

Will report back later when I pick it up after it's been charged - would you advise replacing battery first? 🙂

I advise getting the battery tested before spending any serious money it. Any auto electrician will be able to do that at little or no cost. Apparently even Halfords, though I am not a fan of the company.

Bear in mind what I mentioned about coding a new battery to the car, and if the battery fitter does not know what coding is buy the battery from somebody more competant.

I have no experience of Lion brand batteries, but other folk here do, and they condemn them. Buy a well known brand such as Exide or Varta amongst others. It will be more expensive, but worth it in the long run.

Only once you have a proven decent battery is it worth investigating the other electrical faults, if they still exist. You may find they have disappeared.

[Magnet]

Lion battery- bless you.

As I’ve said many times before, this brand would be firmly at the bottom of my desirability list. 
‘Mixed reviews’ is being too kind. Worth bearing in mind that Euro Car Parts are believed to have re-branded them - can’t  remember the new brand name, but something starting with S ? as per their exclusive Starline. 

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

[cliffcoggin]

Thanks Gareth. I knew the mention of Lion batteries would pique your interest.

[Magnet]

I know a localish motor factor who just won’t stock them, although having an account with ECP. 

[EmilyBrown1995]

Hi all - 

 

After charging battery for 5 hours, no change to dash or amps - this morning turned the car on and the dash cluster is back on, albeit the time is wrong - ahhhhhhh.

 

Em

[Kev-P]

I'd be having the battery tested if it was me. I've heard loads of complaints about Lion batteries, I've always bought my batteries online from Tayna.

[EmilyBrown1995]

Yep - it's booked in for a health check this morning! Will be replacing with a decent Bosch battery.

[cliffcoggin]

Please let us know the outcome.

[EmilyBrown1995]

Back from check battery apparently fine - alternator not so much, low and inconsistent reading, apparently - might explain why the car is starting but the electrics (the dash cluster) is intermittent?

 

Em

[EmilyBrown1995]

Hi all, 

I'm wondering if anyone could assist with my confusion - 

Like I said in previous reply, Halfords tested battery, all fine - alternator returning very low, 'insufficient' voltage readings - the guy at Halfords stated that the alternator provides power to the electrics, which will be why my cluster is acting up...

Now, I have just got off the phone with ECUTesting, who have said that a faulty alternator cannot cause issues with the cluster, but a faulty cluster can effect the alternator...?

Two different sets of information and I am now left confused on what information to believe and whether I should replace the alternator or cluster first - ahhhhh.

Em

[Kev-P]

I'd get a 2nd opinion on the battery & alternator before doing anything. A faulty alternator certainly can affect the cluster, but also it could be the cluster itself.

I personally wouldn't rely on anything Halfords say. I'm not saying they are wrong but would trust an auto electrician more.

[EmilyBrown1995]

Thanks - I just called an Audi specialist garage down here in Cornwall, they advised to call Actronics (who they send their clusters off to) they said that an alternator can in fact cause issues with the cluster and to go down that route first! 

 

[Magnet]

Hello Emily,

Opinions vary, and I would agree with Kev -P.

Perhaps one important question to answer before moving forward in any (in caps) direction:- 

Can you confirm the Lion battery was the correct one for your car, and that it was coded to the car when first fitted? 
If not, it could toast the battery, and vice versa - the alternator - as the alternator treats the new battery - charge wise - as if it were the old defective battery. 
Replacing with Bosch? Yes, perhaps some years ago, but I now prefer Exide Premium, but of course it’s your choice. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

[EmilyBrown1995]

Gareth,

 

Funnily enough, after reading your comment and checking the paperwork for the car that precedes my ownership (see attached- I got the date wrong that the battery was replaced, it was 2021, not 2018 as I originally stated) and googling the battery that was purchased and checking against my reg, all sites say that the battery is indeed not correct or compatible for my car, which brings me to question how it has and continues to run, fine? 

No idea on the coding front as was done by previous owner, I had no idea you even had to ‘code’ batteries? I thought that was only the case for start/stop batteries?

 

Em

 

[Magnet]

Thanks Emily,

Not too sure whether 2021 or 2018 has much bearing over it - crxp is crxp whatever its age. 
This is a very difficult one to confidently advise on, but having said that, you have what appears to be an incorrect spec. low grade battery, with no evidence that it was ever coded to the car when replaced.  You now have a dodgy alternator ( as a result?) and that may (in caps) be affecting the correct operation of many of your electrical systems.

On the one hand, you may find fitting a branded new battery fitted to the car and getting it coded, along with rechecking the alternator consistent output, and all will be well - but no guarantee that it will. I will however be more confident in claiming that if you don’t to that, you are more likely not to fix it if you get anything else checked and worked on. 

Kind regards,

Gareth. 

 

[Stevey Y]

1 hour ago, EmilyBrown1995 said:

Gareth,

 

Funnily enough, after reading your comment and checking the paperwork for the car that precedes my ownership (see attached- I got the date wrong that the battery was replaced, it was 2021, not 2018 as I originally stated) and googling the battery that was purchased and checking against my reg, all sites say that the battery is indeed not correct or compatible for my car, which brings me to question how it has and continues to run, fine? 

No idea on the coding front as was done by previous owner, I had no idea you even had to ‘code’ batteries? I thought that was only the case for start/stop batteries?

 

Em

 

Hi, I would like to dispel the myth that coding a battery is only for stop start equipped vehicles, with the advent of smart charging systems circa 2000 the coding/registering of batteries is required to inform the ECU that a new unit is fitted therefore the charging parameters have to change from maximum charge most of the time for a failing unit to a more fluid regime I.E.the alternator will only step up its charging to near maximum to maintain the batteries prescribed optimum voltage when using lights, heated screen, higher levels of blower use during the summer/winter, now throw in a battery that has not the right amp hour requirements even if coded the alternator has to work twice as hard to maintain the optimum voltage for that unit thus accelerating the alternator wear factor, when you consider old charging systems had to use a regulator to dissipate over voltage conditions by running the excess charge to ground, the new systems are smart insomuch as this never occurs and the alternator ceases to charge via the free wheeling clutch on the alternator until more voltage is required, hence the alternators generally speaking last longer.

Steve.

[cliffcoggin]

Emily.

You have had sometimes conflicting opinions from several people, none of whom have examined or tested your car, relying instead on your descriptions. That's unfortunate, but I see no point in re-iterating any arguments.

Summarising what I see as the relevant facts available: your car is showing some of the classic symptoms of a dying battery, which by your own admission is the wrong one for the car.

[EmilyBrown1995]

Hi Cliff,

I do understand that and I will be changing the battery and understood on the coding front, Steve - is this a simple process? I guess Google is my friend. 

I’m just wanting advice really, hence using the forum - is it correct to assume changing the battery may fix the issue with low voltage within the alternator and thus the rest? Can a alternator be ‘revived’ as such?

 

I guess I’ll just wait and see and report back 😞

 

[EmilyBrown1995]

Hi Gareth, 

 

I will be getting the battery changed and understood on the coding front, Steve - is it easy to code it yourself? I guess Google/YouTube is my friend for that.

 

Can an alternator be 'revived' in that sense by replacing with a good and compatible battery? Or am I looking at a new alternator, too.

 

Emily

 

 

[cliffcoggin]

On 2/25/2025 at 8:58 PM, EmilyBrown1995 said:

is it correct to assume changing the battery may fix the issue with low voltage within the alternator and thus the rest?

Yes indeed, it may do so, but that is not certain. I frankly admit I do not know how the battery is coded to the car except that it involves the use of some types of diagnostic equipment. VCDS and OBD11 are two types that are known to work, while many of the cheap types do not have that capability. An auto electrician, Audi workshop, or independant VAG specialist should be able to do the work.

Here is one of many videos on Youtube that explains the process:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ysatH73_gM