Not Cranking No Start

[Scurge_uk]

Took the car to the gym, had no issues with it leading up to the problem.

I went to use it the following day and it wouldn't start.
All of the usual lights came on the dash, no warning lights or codes.
The car doesn't crank at all when the push start is pressed.
I've changed the batteries in the fobs, tested the battery which was at 11.7v, took the battery out and trickle charged it until it was full 12.8v. I've tried jumping the car with a booster and jump leads toy partners car. The tank has fuel.
Placed the battery back into the car with the same result as before no start, not Cranking no warning lights no codes.
I've used an Obd2 scanner but there are no codes coming up.

While pressing the start button I am not aware of any clicking noises or any defineable sounds.

The only noticeable event observed was a little bit of water in the boot where the battery sits, not alot just a dab of water from where I have previously cleaned the car around the boot seals etc.

[cliffcoggin]

11.7 volts the day after being used suggests the battery is dying, as do all the other symptoms you describe. You should get the battery professionally tested at a dealer or auto electrician, because a simple voltmeter test will not reveal internal faults in the battery which can interfere with the cars electronics. If a new battery is needed ensure you get it coded to the car.

[Scurge_uk]

Thanks for the reply Cliff, I was thinking fo buying a new battery as the current agm battery is coming up to 7 years old so has possibly degraded.

I was going to buy an Obdeleven with subscription and coding it to the car myself as it seems quite simple.

If the battery is damaged would my pulse repair charger work on it and rectify any issues?

[cliffcoggin]

OBD11 is recommended by several folk on the forum.

Your eight year old battery is well past its "sell by" date, and no, you can not revive the battery with any equipment. Internal sulphation of the electrodes and dendrite growth is irreversible.

[Scurge_uk]

Thanks again Cliff.

I'll change the battery regardless of the issue with the starting of the car and if changing the battery delivers no joy I'll move on from there.

I failed to mention that I tested the voltage of the battery roughly 2 weeks after the car would not start at which point the voltage was 11.7 so I am unsure what the voltage was on the first day of the failure to start.

[cliffcoggin]

Cars from twenty years and more ago had a lot of tolerance for feeble power supplies; modern cars do not. Their electronics require very stable power in order to work properly.

Don't forget to get the new battery coded.

[Scurge_uk]

Shouldn't the car have started when I jumped it from my partners car or from the booster even if my battery was low Cliff.

[Magnet]

Hello Alan from the Homeland.

Apologies for jumping in on this, but I would suggest not overthinking this until you get the battery efficiency checked - Halfords stores will check that. 
Also get the alternator output checked at the same time. 
As just mentioned in another thread - come back to us if the battery tests substandard. Your wallet will thank you! 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

[cliffcoggin]

Jump starting from an external battery or a booster pack does not count as a stable power supply, particularly when you consider their flimsy cables and lousy contacts at the crocodile clips.

[Scurge_uk]

Thanks again Cliff and thanks for your input Gareth.

I'll take the battery over to Halfords sometime this week and let you know how it gets on, I'm suspecting not too well.