Oversized Sump Plug

[Ballard]

It seems last service the mechanic tightened the sump plug too much or cross threaded it because the sump thread is sheared..

BKD 2.0tdi 8PA 2005

I'm going to re-thread the sump using an oversized bolt, does anyone know which would best replace the M14 x1.5 x22 standard sump plug?

Original: 

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Audi_A3+Sportback_2.0_2006/p/car-parts/engine-parts1/engine-parts/sump-pans-and-sump-plug/?333440211&1&4a07dcafbd96c4119ec657d28c45348c48aad57c&000566

 

[Magnet]

Hello Will, 

Sorry to hear of your problem, but you are at least lucky that the oil has remained in the sump. 

Would I try using an oversize bolt to cut a 'new' thread in this critical application? No, I wouldn't. Would I use a genuine thread tap to cut a new thread? Again no, since a good quality new tap would be fairly expensive to buy, you wouldn't have any guarantee of tapping it at right angles to the plug face (with the possibility of having weeps), and you would likely to be able to guarantee you are going to get swarf in the sump! 

Sorry Will, but your action would be a classic from the Bodge-it and Leg-it handbook, and is likely to stand a risk of depositing 5litres of oil on the highway. 

Solution:- Buy a new aftermarket sump. Available from Europarts and others? Now that's a proper job.

Kind regards,

Gareth.

[Steve Q]

I have to agree with Gareth on this. Once the sump has been damaged in this way there is no reversing the damage I'm afraid. I believe VAG use 2 different types of sump plugs and clearly the wrong one has been fitted. 

Just think if you'd bodge it, would you really have piece of mind motoring from there one? I know I wouldn't. It might be worth speaking to the garage who carried out the work and see what they have to say. 

Keep us posted on how you get on as this must be infuriating! 

Cheers

Steve 

[cliffcoggin]

Another stripped thread Will? Perhaps your mechanic should stick to tractors. <g>

I agree with others that forcing on oversized bolt, (even one that has been grooved with a flute or two,) into the hole is a bodge more suited to your mechanic, and would in any case push swarf into the sump, but unlike Gareth I would happily use a proper tap. However to do the job I would want the sump removed and mounted on a drill or mill table to get the correct angle, then cleaned thoroughly of swarf before fitting to the engine. I doubt that would be easier or even necessarily cheaper than buying a secondhand sump from a breakers yard.

[Trevor]

You can fit a Helicoil to the sump...find a garage that has the kit for this or it is available to buy at Engineering supply stores as a kit (tap and Helicoil)

[Ballard]

44 minutes ago, cliffcoggin said:

Another stripped thread Will? Perhaps your mechanic should stick to tractors. <g>

I agree with others that forcing on oversized bolt, (even one that has been grooved with a flute or two,) into the hole is a bodge more suited to your mechanic, and would in any case push swarf into the sump, but unlike Gareth I would happily use a proper tap. However to do the job I would want the sump removed and mounted on a drill or mill table to get the correct angle, then cleaned thoroughly of swarf before fitting to the engine. I doubt that would be easier or even necessarily cheaper than buying a secondhand sump from a breakers yard.

It seems my car was not taken care of in its last service.

First the oil filter cap, now the sump plug. I only had it serviced 200miles ago (or there abouts) and noticed a small oil leak when I was bleeding brakes - this led me to check and realise the oil filter cap was over tightened and sheared, so I decided to re-service it myself.

Having taken the sump plug out, I could tell it was also extremely tight, clearly put on by an inexperienced chap.

The motor has been taken to a different mechanic and having heard this story, he's going to first check over the other serviced items and then attempt a re-thread, but its anyone's guess if it'll be successful or not.

Looks like a new sump, but I'll keep you updated, may even with some pics so we can all laugh at the poor job lol

 

Cheers for the advice everyone, I 100% do not want to bodge it and for the sake of £100 in parts, I'd rather keep my oil off of the motorway and engine in good order

[Dan3222]

You might find that paying someone to helicoil and fit a new sump plug might not be much more or less money than changing the sump itself. A second hand sump will be the cheapest option, I bet you could get one for £25 from a breakers.

However, sump removal is not always that straight forward. There are many cars that require a lot of things taken off to allow the sump to come away from the block. Bare that in mind, it might not be a driveway DIY thing. Has anyone got experience with sump removal while engine is in situ?

Out of interest, not everyone knows but you should really always have a new sump plug each time you have the oil changed, the compression washer is the reason why. However, I generally change one every 3 oil changes. To avoid the weeping of oil and the net result of overtightening, as has happened here.

 

[Ballard]

Problem resolved! New sump, done and paid for!

HOWEVER

The garage invited me in, when I tried to start my car it wouldn't. It now sounds like and does this:

- NOT MY VIDEO

 

I checked for fault codes and got back:

P2108

I changed the throttle body unit 12 months ago ffs! Is this what the fault is?

Hopefully my luck changes or I'll buy a new A5...

[Ballard]

The throttle body flap was stuck closed, brilliant.

[Dan3222]

I used to get that on my Mazda 6's. The flap catching I mean.

Hopefully that's you and your car sorted though mate.