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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

Hello Captain Threaders Dont know of any offers regarding Audi Dashcams but I can 100 percent recommend a Blackvue two camera system and the company that installs them. I'm on my second Q8 and on both, for the first time in my motoring life and many many motor cars ( I'm 77 years of age by the way ) I made the decision to have a dashcam fitted to both. For my security and safety. I researched alot and it seems that the two high end cameras that are recommended by the various motor magazines are the Blackvue system and the Nextbase. They are both at the top of the dashcam available technology but I do believe you get what you pay for and as our cars are pretty expensive and valuable I decided to go for the duo system Blackvue backed up by a seperate Cellink battery. Both systems in both my cars were fitted and installed by TTW Installations situated in Nottingham. Now I realise thats a bit of a way to go seeing you are in West Yorkshire as it is for me being in Hampshire butif you value and love your car as I do I assure you its worth it. Small Company run by a husband and wife team who employ one other fitter. Just take a look at their website and see the type of vehicle they are working on. They do all sorts including top of the range tracker systems and speed warning systems. They are car nuts and look after your car and the installation is quite superb. All leads and wires hidden and the battery is either fitted hidden under a seat or in the boot. Nothing on show and the quality of the camera and lens and the playback is superb. I think it makes a perfect deterrent. Hope this is of interest. Frank

Hey Ahmei - I had to get RAC to tow our Q5 to the nearest Audit garage. Needed a full steering rack replacement which cost £1.4k . Took them 48 hrs to sort out at the garage. Unfortunate but don't think I had a choice as it wasn't related to the battery. All the best.

Noticed my rear light bar has started delaminating in half a dozen places no outside impact damage it’s coming from inside the unit Audi immediately offered to change this under warranty just a heads up to see if yours is ok as they cost around 1600 quid to buy IMG_8669.mov IMG_8669.mov IMG_8669.mov

Hi Raj, In terms of the gearbox, though Audi say it's a lifetime gearbox, there is actually no such thing. I've read that when asked what it means, Audi state that it means lifetime of the gearbox, not lifetime of the car itself. As such, I'm an advocate of servicing the DSG regardless of it supposedly being lifetime as Audi say. I personally aim to do it every 40,000 miles or 4 years (make sure to get the transmission fluid AND mechatronic fluid changed). You'll notice the gear changes are much much smoother. In terms of your shock absorber, I used KYB once and personally not a fan, though I've heard it's a decent brand from others. The ride was too bumpy for my liking. Do not buy from Audi unless you're happy to pay extremely inflated prices. I use AVS Car Parts (vwspares.co.uk) for my car parts and they supply OEM equipment. Give them a ring. You cannot go wrong with Sachs shock absorbers which are the ones that likely came on the car originally. Don't forget it's recommended to do both shocks so that the ride is consistent (also if 1 has gone, likely the other will be going soon).

Dear fellow members, It's about time I wrote to you all. We've said goodbye to the car and I write to say goodbye to you. I contacted a firm in Walsall specialising in left hand drive vehicles. I got the impression it was one man and a couple of sons. Anyway just as I looked forward to some time working on its kerb appeal, the man rang to announce their imminent visit to the Northwest. "Yes, come to us too", said I, and suddenly it was all over. We were left clutching a few hundred pounds, he left hoping to find a Spaniard needing a bargain in which to get home. Perhaps a prospective buyer was already identified (given the haste). Anyway, we're not expecting complaints: as you all know, an Audi of that vintage will just keep on going. However, I am going. Thanks, best wishes and goodbye to all who submitted comments and or advice, yours sincerely Peter Wight

South West Caves & Caverns Road Trip 🚗🕳️ This road trip takes you through some of the most incredible caves and caverns in South West England, from prehistoric sites to hidden coastal caves. Perfect for history lovers, adventure seekers, and geology enthusiasts! 📍 Clearwell Caves, Gloucestershire 🏞️⛏️ 📍 Cheddar Gorge & Caves, Somerset 🏔️🦴 📍 Wookey Hole Caves, Somerset 🧙‍♀️🕳️ 📍 Beer Quarry Caves, Dorset 🏰🪨 📍 Kent’s Cavern, Torquay 🦴🌍 📍 Carnglaze Caverns, Cornwall 🌊✨ 📍 Merlin’s Cave, Cornwall 🏰🔮 Total Distance: 🚗 Approx. 250 miles

Just thought I'd share this link for replacing the window regulator in an A6 C5 as it's the most helpful one I've found. Very clear instructions and tells you which Torx bits and rivets you'll need. The whole process took me about two hours start to finish and I was taking my time to ensure everything was correct. Hope this helps anyone contemplating the same repair. How To: Replacing AUDI C5 RS6 Window Regulator!

I've just replaced the CCM in my A6 and this is the best video I've found for reprogramming the key fobs if you're fortunate enough to have two of them. Very clear instructions and worked first time for both of my key fobs with no messing around. The reprogramming information starts at 9:00 but the rest of the video may be useful to anybody that needs to repair their key fob. https://youtu.be/RyNpeZUJtsc

My understanding is that they should operate on demand in any mode except efficiency.

Raj. Audi recommendations in respect of cambelt and water pump have changed over the years so it is not surprising you can not get consistent answers from dealers. Personally I stuck to the old suggestion of 70000 miles. Nobody suffered an engine failure by servicing it ahead of schedule. When it comes to the gearbox you are on your own. You are pushing more power through it and the rest of the transmission than normal, so you can not rely on normal service recommendations. Yet again, nobody suffered a gearbox failure by servicing it ahead of schedule.

I doubt it is an electrical or sensor fault because the electrical system is off when the car sags. It is more likely to be an air leak from the bag, valves, or pipe. I would spray or brush soapy water on all the components and watch for bubbles.

Sent it to ecu testing and think it was about £250 + vat

Hi,new here but 4 years a member of the A2OC.As you can see,I have a 1.4 petrol SE and recently acquired the red 1.6 fsi SE,currently Sorn-ed.Its been stood a while,only just got it on and off the trailer!Will be pestering people for advice on it soon,lol.

My pleasure. If it ain't broke, don't fix it (had to learn that the hard way). A service regen isn't risk free as there's been occasional stories of service regens melting the DPF. If the car is not causing issues, drive happily and worry free; let the ECU worry about the active regens as it should. Long distance driving will allow for passive regen.

2004 Audi A4 1.9 TDI Sport (B6) - £1500 Registered: May 2004 Previous Owners: 4 Current Owner: Since May 2013. Transmission: 6 Speed Manual Fuel: Diesel Colour: Metallic Blue Interior: Grey Leather/Suede. Mileage: 155’664 BHP: 130 MOT: 06/12/2025 Service History: Full service carried out by specialist 05/12/2024 (serviced yearly by Audi dealership or specialist). Timing Belt changed 08/12/2023. Tax: £240 Location: Wolverhampton/Birmingham Additional Details: Selling as will be getting a company car soon, still looks and drives great for its age, does an 80-mile round trip going down the motorway every few weeks with no problems. Comes with factory fitted 18” alloys (inc. spare), 2 keys, manuals, original and new service book, HPI clear and all MOT certificates and invoices since 2013, with full service carried every year since then (plus oil and filter changes in between at approx. 3000 miles during 2013 and 2018 when driven 10K+ miles a year). One minor incident impacted the front passenger side door, chose to replace door through insurance on 17/10/2016. Paintwork generally in good condition, some bubbling and a couple of spots of rust, no leaks or mechanical problems, and all electrics working, but aircon needs recharging and some minor issues as expected for a 21-year-old car as follows: Crack on the windscreen (has passed MOT’s) Rip on the driver’s seat Glovebox stuck (can open via the side) Airbag light stays on MOT advice notes: Nearside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge Front Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement Rear Registration plate deteriorated but not likely to be misread Rear Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened Price reflects the above, but as those in the know can verify, this 1.9 TDI engine is very economical and an absolute workhorse, so still has plenty of life left in it!

Hi I did get it fixed but I never got the chance to sell it as it rolled off of my local garage forecourt into the brick wall across the road, electro mechanical handbrake failure caused by a voltage drop on the battery which is another favourite trick of the cars from 2014-2017, no the price you have been quoted is not normal as I never paid more than £1600 for the cooler unit to be replaced bearing in mind you could only get the parts from Audi at around £700, now you can get aftermarket parts around £450, my advice would be to get the adblue mapped out and then the cooler fixed as cheaply as possible then get rid of it ASAP, beautifully made car body wise and a joy to drive BUT parts are ruinous price wise and as mine was used as a cab frequent, got a Passat estate now not as glamorous but is as nice to drive and any parts are about a third of the price. Steve.

Bear in mind that remapping might be counted as a modification as far as your insurer is concerned, particularly if the power is increased, so unless you declare the modification the policy may be invalid.

Hi your headlights are HID I think you will find that they are fitted with D5S bulbs and for reasons only known only to type approval in Germany they do not qualify for washers even though they throw out an equivalent amount of light to the old D3S equipped units, which needed washers, D5S units use a lot less voltage than D3S/D1S bulbs therefore are considered a greener alternative as they extend battery/alternator life, also D5S will not burn the reflector bowls unlike the above mentioned and they also have an integral ballast unit built in to the bulb housing so no more guessing if its the bulb or the separate ballast that was fitted to D3S/D1S. Steve.

If it is chain rattle then it’s linked to long service intervals potentially at the start if the car’s life. The oil viscosity and lubrication properties are diminished by 8k miles, never mind 18k miles. 5w30 will come out like water when draining. What is history of servicing please? Before committing to any repair, you might want to speak to VAG Technic (Dudley) or Decimal Tenths (Newcastle) first. They regularly drop engines and repair tappets (worn needle bearings), stretched chains or slap (worn chain sprockets or broken plastic guides). The figure of £2.2k seems cheap, this is normally double given labour and genuine parts cost. First thing to do would be to drop oil and see if any contaminants. They also check oil filter for any metal filings or swarf. If that all checks out they can remove rocker covers to view camshafts. You can possibly see camshaft wear with endoscope, but only partial view, or even get a stethoscope to the back to listen to see if that reveals more. Chains are meant to be for life of car, but it’s all down to service history and use unfortunately.

I agree with your logic that a temperature sensor fault is the likely cause of the problem, probably the ambient or external sensor. Unfortunately I have no idea where it is.

Hi all, This thread was a life saver - had the same problem and was able to resolve it myself. STOP / START - Brake servo restricted requires the brake pressure booster sensor to be replaced. TIP: I had to use a little WD40 on the orange O ring for the sensor to push and clip in. I purchased mine from here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234156424190?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=uI6ymBN1QH-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=LlyWfVm0QjS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Please see video for location on the Audi Q5 2019 20250328_134520.mp4

Welcome Barry, you have just won the prize for the shortest introductory post from a newcomer. We do not charge by the word! Kind regards, Gareth.

I have 2012, 1.4 tfsi, in cold, damp wether, it too emits an alarming amount of vapour but only idle, No odour, no coolant loss. I was concerned the first winter this occurred but it cleared once warmer temperatures arrived. Same through this last winter but now we are experiencing above 15 degrees vapour has cleared. No loss of coolant with mine. I remember doing a google search when I first experienced it … seems to be pretty common.

Hi Rohith, Have the coolant temperature sensors been checked? It's strange that the engine is colder despite it working harder. The 1.6 TDI has 2 sensors (many do not know this). When facing the car with the bonnet open, 1 sensor is located on the left side in a pipe going towards the EGR, the second is on the right side basically in the engine itself. My recommendation would be to find someone who has VCDS (I'm happy to help if you're able to make it to West Yorkshire) and measure the live data from both sensors. If there's a big discrepancy, it's possible one of the sensors has gone. The fact that your fuel consumption is up and your engine temperature is behaving in the opposite way it would if there were a blockage makes it more likely to be a sensor issue.

Forgive me butting in Chris but you seem to be turning a blind eye to Magnet's strong hints about the state of your engine, so let me be more forthright. Running the engine for a year without adequate lubrication has spoiled the piston ring sealing in the cylinders as your compression figures clearly demonstrate. (Incidently that's likely to mean the big end and main bearings are also clapped out.) No amount of new oil pumps are going to restore the rings and bores, so there will be exhaust blow past leading to smoke, high emissions, blocked exhaust and MOT failure. I fear you have left it to late to save that engine.

It l looks like you are searching Autodoc/ECP. If it were mine I would discount everything except Febi. Check out Parts in Motion for great service at competitive prices. Well worth checking their EBay listings for the correct part- often a little cheaper than buying the same part off their website. Let us know what you come up with Chris. Kind regards, Gareth.

What’s the engine code? My understanding is these exhaust temp sensors are utter pain. Access may be difficult, plus they are usually difficult to remove and sometimes need drilled out. Not sure what OBD scanner you’re using, but you need to get access to VCDS or Autel to check, then you can run live data. it might even be exhaust pressure sender. Check against your engine code. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/646/2/253/253062

Hello James, Warning for low coolant level rather than coolant temperature?? If so, what you have found is most likely the culprit, but that is a coolant level sensor and not a coolant temperature sensor. Kind regards, Gareth.

Spartacus I had thought about that fuel pump but couldn’t work out why it would cut the fuel for a split second. I think it would have to stop for a period of time before the engine would notice it due to the high pressure pump. However definitely worth checking out.

Check exhaust clamps, and flexi (if one is fitted) these can corrode and what you’re smelling is fumes from engine bay. Also auxilliary drive belt, a seized clutch drive pulley, etc.

thats sound advice Syed

Scrutinise the exclusions very very carefully. Most of these policies are not worth the paper they are written on.

Bit of information for anyone with electrical issues that seem to be most likely down to broken wires in the A pillar loom. The symptoms I had (all on the passenger side) were No door open displayed on the dashboard No footwell lights No puddle lights No door edge red light Door lock button not working with central locking Power windows and speakers were working fine. Everything was pointing to broken wires in the A pillar loom but after a lot of checking visually and with a multimeter everything seemed to be fine on that front. Spent a few hours searching the internet and found a lot of topics suggesting the problem was with the door closed sensor on the lock actuator. Installed a new one this morning and all the problems are cured, worth a try if anyone's having similar problems and has ruled out any other issues. By the way, I did see a few guides on repairing the existing lock but it seems like a fair bit of faffing around for something that isn't guaranteed to work. My new actuator came in at £23 delivered from EBay and works perfectly so that seems the best option to me.

Brandon. In your position I would not be worrying about a wiper/washer repair when the engine does not work. The engine problem could be far more expensive to solve so surely it would make sense to solve that first?

You're right, strictly speaking, it should be coded. I've got an old OBDElevan, can't recall if it was possible using that, so will give that a try. If not then a local mech has vcds, so will give them a shout.

Hi, £30 for pick up in Norwich area. Otherwise plus shipment costs.

Yes, new it was £52k, and the tax is at £600 for 5 years. I knew the huuuuge 'new car' tax was a thing, but i didn't realise it was 5 years. Good news about the oil. I'll keep an eye on it. Expectation is that i'll keep it at least 10 years, but the whole 'no new petrol or diesel cars after 2030' position may change that. I paid cash for it, so no free servicing. They did try to convince me, and said I could pay it off any time without penalty, but the Ts & Cs left me entirely at their whim as far as interest goes - they add it on at the start, not based on the outstanding balance. The ALA does go off when I use that switch, just as it does in the MMI, but it always comes back on after the ignition is turned off and on again. I know I can avoid its actions by indicating, but i've driven reskinned BMWs for 12 years, it's going to be a hard habit to break. Thanks

Looks great. Good to hear no additional coding was required.

[UPDATE] I made the decision of the purchase and installed it as of today. It was quite frustrating to take the old airbag off, but eventually got there. The installation was a success. It was plug and play as I expected, no additional coding/adaptations were needed for this specific steering wheel/airbag.

Sounds auxilliary drive belt related, alternator clutch pulley, tensioner pulley, etc.

Picked her up today and I’m chuffed . Especially with the colour . Will hopefully get some better pics up but here’s a quick snap 🙂 u did spec the Audi beam puddle lights but dont seem to have them ? Checked the mmi setting and exterior lights is enabled so not sure about that ?

Hi it has nothing to do with the braking bias and more to do with the pad material, one of the posters mentioned Audi fitting low dust pads, these are always noisy and a lot harder compound standard aftermarket pads contain more organic compounds which create more dust but generally make less noise. Steve.

For goodness sake take it back to the dealer as soon as you can, and forget about hurting his feelings or upsetting him. You have a statutory 30 days in which to reject the car if it is faulty. After that time the dealer will not want to know you as he will be laughing all the way to the bank. There's a very good reason secondhand car dealers have a poor reputation.

OMG - yes, looks like amazon sent the wrong one but probably my fault!! Thanks for spotting. I'll get the right one ordered! Thanks a lot for your help.

For sale - 2001 A3 8L 1.8T Sport (150bhp) 3dr silver. The car has recently failed its MOT, which has led to my decision to sell it (detail below). Ideally I’d carry out the work, but the car is being used less and less frequently, so it doesn’t make sense to invest the time just for it to sit on the driveway. I’ve owned the car for nearly 15 years during which time it’s been a fantastic drive - no major issue, kept on top of maintenance and low mileage use. Would love to see it with a fellow enthusiast who can go on to enjoy it as much as I have, as I know these cars are becoming rarer and rarer to find. Details of repairs needed: Nearside and offside rear brake pipe replacement + front to rear pipe Nearside Front Track rod end ball joint replacement Offside front coil spring replacement ESP warning lamp (code 00778 thrown). Steering wheel is a few degrees off centre which I suspect is preventing the steering angle sensor from calibrating. Alignment should fix it, but new arms and track rod ends may be needed. Driver’s seat mechanism has been temperamental since the day I bought it - essentially takes a few pulls to disengage & reengage fore / aft adjustment (cropped up as an advisory over the years, but this year flagged as a major). Paint and body work overall in good condition (24 year old car, so some scuffs). Wheels would benefit from a refurb. Location: Cheshire MOT: 17/03/2025 Mileage: 110,157 Service history: Partial Previous owners: 5 Current owner: July 2010 Happy to supply reg to those with genuine interest Asking £800

I'm assuming that you're talking saloon here? If not, I have the Avant and I seriously wouldn't worry about the boot space, the main difference is that the boot floor is about an inch or so higher than the non-hybrid version which does cause a small lip but nothing to worry about it's still massive, you just lose a bit of headroom. The rear seats also don't fold flat with the boot and have a similar lip between the seat back and the boot floor. I'd take some pics but it's currently stacked full of PA equipment! 😆 If you are talking saloon, then all of the above is of no help whatsoever (but might help others) & hopefully someone else can answer your query.

This is the fourth time you have posted the same message without any explanation, which to me looks like spam. Either you post your solution on the forum or I will ban you.

Mine does this from time to time. It seems to me this is relative to a safety system not a mechanical issue. The handle of the door releases the latch but not the lock. So on pulling the latch is released but the lock doesn’t. if you pull the lever in less of a rush I find myself not having to pull twice. you can try some self diagnosis. fault find 1: step 1 put the car in park and hand break applied. step 2 open the door if the car does not release the lock on first pull. There potentially is a fault. Fault find 2: step 1 apply brake pedal, put vehicle into drive/neutral. step 2 open the door, if the car does not immediately open on 1st pull, check if the car is in park, and handbrake applied if so pull again if it releases this means the car prevented you from leaving whilst in drive and changed, in which during that time ensured you remained in the vehicle until it had prevented the car from moving. if it did not/did go into park and handbrake applied but won’t open it means there is a fault requiring further diagnosis.

Heres a cool part I found on another page. It's a washer fluid tank cap that doubles as a funnel to prevent washer fluid spills. It's an OE part on some Skodas and fits right on. Just enough clearance to turn and open. Part number 000096706. Found mine on ebay for £9.