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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

Hello Captain Threaders Dont know of any offers regarding Audi Dashcams but I can 100 percent recommend a Blackvue two camera system and the company that installs them. I'm on my second Q8 and on both, for the first time in my motoring life and many many motor cars ( I'm 77 years of age by the way ) I made the decision to have a dashcam fitted to both. For my security and safety. I researched alot and it seems that the two high end cameras that are recommended by the various motor magazines are the Blackvue system and the Nextbase. They are both at the top of the dashcam available technology but I do believe you get what you pay for and as our cars are pretty expensive and valuable I decided to go for the duo system Blackvue backed up by a seperate Cellink battery. Both systems in both my cars were fitted and installed by TTW Installations situated in Nottingham. Now I realise thats a bit of a way to go seeing you are in West Yorkshire as it is for me being in Hampshire butif you value and love your car as I do I assure you its worth it. Small Company run by a husband and wife team who employ one other fitter. Just take a look at their website and see the type of vehicle they are working on. They do all sorts including top of the range tracker systems and speed warning systems. They are car nuts and look after your car and the installation is quite superb. All leads and wires hidden and the battery is either fitted hidden under a seat or in the boot. Nothing on show and the quality of the camera and lens and the playback is superb. I think it makes a perfect deterrent. Hope this is of interest. Frank

Hey Ahmei - I had to get RAC to tow our Q5 to the nearest Audit garage. Needed a full steering rack replacement which cost £1.4k . Took them 48 hrs to sort out at the garage. Unfortunate but don't think I had a choice as it wasn't related to the battery. All the best.

Noticed my rear light bar has started delaminating in half a dozen places no outside impact damage it’s coming from inside the unit Audi immediately offered to change this under warranty just a heads up to see if yours is ok as they cost around 1600 quid to buy IMG_8669.mov IMG_8669.mov IMG_8669.mov

Hi Raj, In terms of the gearbox, though Audi say it's a lifetime gearbox, there is actually no such thing. I've read that when asked what it means, Audi state that it means lifetime of the gearbox, not lifetime of the car itself. As such, I'm an advocate of servicing the DSG regardless of it supposedly being lifetime as Audi say. I personally aim to do it every 40,000 miles or 4 years (make sure to get the transmission fluid AND mechatronic fluid changed). You'll notice the gear changes are much much smoother. In terms of your shock absorber, I used KYB once and personally not a fan, though I've heard it's a decent brand from others. The ride was too bumpy for my liking. Do not buy from Audi unless you're happy to pay extremely inflated prices. I use AVS Car Parts (vwspares.co.uk) for my car parts and they supply OEM equipment. Give them a ring. You cannot go wrong with Sachs shock absorbers which are the ones that likely came on the car originally. Don't forget it's recommended to do both shocks so that the ride is consistent (also if 1 has gone, likely the other will be going soon).

Dear fellow members, It's about time I wrote to you all. We've said goodbye to the car and I write to say goodbye to you. I contacted a firm in Walsall specialising in left hand drive vehicles. I got the impression it was one man and a couple of sons. Anyway just as I looked forward to some time working on its kerb appeal, the man rang to announce their imminent visit to the Northwest. "Yes, come to us too", said I, and suddenly it was all over. We were left clutching a few hundred pounds, he left hoping to find a Spaniard needing a bargain in which to get home. Perhaps a prospective buyer was already identified (given the haste). Anyway, we're not expecting complaints: as you all know, an Audi of that vintage will just keep on going. However, I am going. Thanks, best wishes and goodbye to all who submitted comments and or advice, yours sincerely Peter Wight

South West Caves & Caverns Road Trip 🚗🕳️ This road trip takes you through some of the most incredible caves and caverns in South West England, from prehistoric sites to hidden coastal caves. Perfect for history lovers, adventure seekers, and geology enthusiasts! 📍 Clearwell Caves, Gloucestershire 🏞️⛏️ 📍 Cheddar Gorge & Caves, Somerset 🏔️🦴 📍 Wookey Hole Caves, Somerset 🧙‍♀️🕳️ 📍 Beer Quarry Caves, Dorset 🏰🪨 📍 Kent’s Cavern, Torquay 🦴🌍 📍 Carnglaze Caverns, Cornwall 🌊✨ 📍 Merlin’s Cave, Cornwall 🏰🔮 Total Distance: 🚗 Approx. 250 miles

Just thought I'd share this link for replacing the window regulator in an A6 C5 as it's the most helpful one I've found. Very clear instructions and tells you which Torx bits and rivets you'll need. The whole process took me about two hours start to finish and I was taking my time to ensure everything was correct. Hope this helps anyone contemplating the same repair. How To: Replacing AUDI C5 RS6 Window Regulator!

I've just replaced the CCM in my A6 and this is the best video I've found for reprogramming the key fobs if you're fortunate enough to have two of them. Very clear instructions and worked first time for both of my key fobs with no messing around. The reprogramming information starts at 9:00 but the rest of the video may be useful to anybody that needs to repair their key fob. https://youtu.be/RyNpeZUJtsc

My understanding is that they should operate on demand in any mode except efficiency.

Raj. Audi recommendations in respect of cambelt and water pump have changed over the years so it is not surprising you can not get consistent answers from dealers. Personally I stuck to the old suggestion of 70000 miles. Nobody suffered an engine failure by servicing it ahead of schedule. When it comes to the gearbox you are on your own. You are pushing more power through it and the rest of the transmission than normal, so you can not rely on normal service recommendations. Yet again, nobody suffered a gearbox failure by servicing it ahead of schedule.

I doubt it is an electrical or sensor fault because the electrical system is off when the car sags. It is more likely to be an air leak from the bag, valves, or pipe. I would spray or brush soapy water on all the components and watch for bubbles.

Sent it to ecu testing and think it was about £250 + vat

Hi,new here but 4 years a member of the A2OC.As you can see,I have a 1.4 petrol SE and recently acquired the red 1.6 fsi SE,currently Sorn-ed.Its been stood a while,only just got it on and off the trailer!Will be pestering people for advice on it soon,lol.

My pleasure. If it ain't broke, don't fix it (had to learn that the hard way). A service regen isn't risk free as there's been occasional stories of service regens melting the DPF. If the car is not causing issues, drive happily and worry free; let the ECU worry about the active regens as it should. Long distance driving will allow for passive regen.

2004 Audi A4 1.9 TDI Sport (B6) - £1500 Registered: May 2004 Previous Owners: 4 Current Owner: Since May 2013. Transmission: 6 Speed Manual Fuel: Diesel Colour: Metallic Blue Interior: Grey Leather/Suede. Mileage: 155’664 BHP: 130 MOT: 06/12/2025 Service History: Full service carried out by specialist 05/12/2024 (serviced yearly by Audi dealership or specialist). Timing Belt changed 08/12/2023. Tax: £240 Location: Wolverhampton/Birmingham Additional Details: Selling as will be getting a company car soon, still looks and drives great for its age, does an 80-mile round trip going down the motorway every few weeks with no problems. Comes with factory fitted 18” alloys (inc. spare), 2 keys, manuals, original and new service book, HPI clear and all MOT certificates and invoices since 2013, with full service carried every year since then (plus oil and filter changes in between at approx. 3000 miles during 2013 and 2018 when driven 10K+ miles a year). One minor incident impacted the front passenger side door, chose to replace door through insurance on 17/10/2016. Paintwork generally in good condition, some bubbling and a couple of spots of rust, no leaks or mechanical problems, and all electrics working, but aircon needs recharging and some minor issues as expected for a 21-year-old car as follows: Crack on the windscreen (has passed MOT’s) Rip on the driver’s seat Glovebox stuck (can open via the side) Airbag light stays on MOT advice notes: Nearside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge Front Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement Rear Registration plate deteriorated but not likely to be misread Rear Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened Price reflects the above, but as those in the know can verify, this 1.9 TDI engine is very economical and an absolute workhorse, so still has plenty of life left in it!

I would just like to ask. Why? The A6 Avant has quite a low profile and wide stance already. I am probably "old Skool" but I think some of these modifications ask the chassis and axles to do things that they were not originally designed for, and could cause premature failures of some components.

Looking good Mr.G still rocking my winter wheels, think I’ll be keeping them on 🤔😂

I took the plunge and added a 2009 TTRS to my Audi collection! It needs a few bits of trim and new vents and some other bits and bobs but it’s pretty good condition and goes like a rocket

I agree with your logic that a temperature sensor fault is the likely cause of the problem, probably the ambient or external sensor. Unfortunately I have no idea where it is.

Hi I know some aftermarket tanks are sold with no bag which is the selling point, it depends on the shape of the tank if its round you can't remove it as it sits behind a second skin inside the tank, if its square you can fish it out with a pair of extra long needle nosed pliers. Steve.

Hi I agree with Steve. Wheel spacers put undue load on the axle bearings, and you would probably have to declare them to your insurance company as well.

Welcome Barry, you have just won the prize for the shortest introductory post from a newcomer. We do not charge by the word! Kind regards, Gareth.

Probably stuck with TRV sealant Chris.

Forgive me butting in Chris but you seem to be turning a blind eye to Magnet's strong hints about the state of your engine, so let me be more forthright. Running the engine for a year without adequate lubrication has spoiled the piston ring sealing in the cylinders as your compression figures clearly demonstrate. (Incidently that's likely to mean the big end and main bearings are also clapped out.) No amount of new oil pumps are going to restore the rings and bores, so there will be exhaust blow past leading to smoke, high emissions, blocked exhaust and MOT failure. I fear you have left it to late to save that engine.

It l looks like you are searching Autodoc/ECP. If it were mine I would discount everything except Febi. Check out Parts in Motion for great service at competitive prices. Well worth checking their EBay listings for the correct part- often a little cheaper than buying the same part off their website. Let us know what you come up with Chris. Kind regards, Gareth.

Just buy a new level sensor James.

Hi, yes I removed all spark plugs whilst testing each cylinder.

Spartacus I had thought about that fuel pump but couldn’t work out why it would cut the fuel for a split second. I think it would have to stop for a period of time before the engine would notice it due to the high pressure pump. However definitely worth checking out.

Thank you for your advice/reply. 👍👍

thats sound advice Syed

Keep on top of servicing is half the battle. That said, things can go wrong. I think your SOS button is bit of an anomaly and hopefully a one off, but that said I was reading about the light bar on a 2022 Q8 delaminating, and that was a £1,500+ repair, luckily under warranty. If it gives you peace of mind, take out the warranty. Just double-check conditions. I had a non Audi 2 year warranty on my 2017 B9 Avant, and it stipulated services every 6 months which is unrealistic. I now service the car myself and had the Tiptronic gearbox serviced too, Audi would have said leave it.

Scrutinise the exclusions very very carefully. Most of these policies are not worth the paper they are written on.

Glad to read the problem was non existant. However I believe you still need to code the new battery to the car despite maintaining 12 volts during the swap.

Hi Stevey Y, Thanks for your response. Indeed, I'm sure I did, but I believe I only changed the last digit & not the last 3. I've now learned that about the serial number, so that will come in handy. 🙂 I don't believe you can on my A4 B8 as it's non-UDS. You can only enter 10 or 11 digit part number, 1 or 2 spaces, the battery manufacturer, 1 space and then the 10 digit serial number. Yes, me too, but every battery supplier, aside from Tanya, suggested a 70Ah 760A battery, so I went by popular suggestion. As I said to cliffcoggin above, it wasn't until my engine continued to fail to start after I'd installed the A7 battery that I looked further into the suggestion of using the cars 'starter battery', which I learned was a 92Ah 520A. This is when I posted as above. Apologies, I should have clarified that I changed the pump in the tank around 3 years ago, less than 12k miles ago, for a new Bosch pump, so that shouldn't be an issue. I haven't physically tested it, which I will do tomorrow, but it's making all the right noises, at all of the right times and instances. There is a simple way to test the flow of that low pressure pump, by disconnecting from the HPFP and adding a plastic 500ml bottle; it should reach around 1/3 full when opening the door and after emptying, it should reach a little under 2/3 full when pressing the key. So watch this space on that. Thanks again, Paul.

I suspect there won't be a cheap fix. Your repair sounds like it's worked though

Looks great. Good to hear no additional coding was required.

Hey guys, wanted to share my solution here. My 06 2.0t A3 had an issue where it would crank and crank and crank but no start. Eventually I got it to stumble start and it was then running down on at least 1 cylinder. After giving it some gas it would finally clean up and then run fine. I did not immediately have a CEL, but when checking with an OBD2 reader I got these 5 codes, P0688 - ECM/PCM Power Relay Sense Circuit/Open P2149 - Fuel Injector Group B Supply Voltage Circuit/Open P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected After some research here and online, no clear answers were given. I saw a lot of people replacing a lot of parts and spending money by blindly throwing parts at the car. When reading over the codes, I felt like most of them were "symptom" codes. The misfires are probably related to injector issues and the injectors not getting power is probably related to the PCM code. So I decided to replace my PCM relay, which in my car was not listed online or in the manual hardly anywhere. Here is a photo of the fusebox. The PCM relay is slot R1, circled in red. After replacing the PCM relay, my car is running properly without issue. Hope this helps someone :)

Wheel will physically fit but you'll need the clock spring from the donor car, air bag and wiring.

Hi Gareth, And some news: As expected the selling garage (which aren't Audi dealers) were little help. They said they had handed over what they had and couldn't tell us any owner history (data protection etc). We have an outline owner history anyway, thanks to the various number plate changes matching with MOT info. We've sent in a V888 to see what else that might produce. The good news: we've found the servicing data! And the stamps tally with the data in the selling advert. I was checking the spec for the radio/6CD Bose system fitted to the car and asked my friend if he had the code just in case he ever had a flat battery or needed to disconnect the battery for any reason. He dug out a small folder with the original radio/CD instruction booklet and tucked away behind it was the very slim Audi Service Schedule booklet. Bingo: dealers stamps in there. Now he can move forward with (sadly) selling this vehicle that he happily had put a lot of money into as he had planned to be keeping it for a couple of years yet. Life sometimes just doesn't play the way we plan does it?

Hi could well be a blocked/ failing PCV valve on the cam housing, not sure if you can replace the valve or its incorporated in to the cam cover. Short journeys a lot of the time wont do it any favours. Steve.

£3000

Hi I have a 2023 Audi A3 Sline, 23 months old, have had a problem with battery system failure, for past 4 months, after a few visits to supportive dealer problem was found to be the 48v battery was draining the 12volt battery, both have been replaced under warranty. No further issues. Mark

So, oil temperature is 73C but your water/coolant temperature gauge is sitting at just under 50C Possibly thermostat failed/stuck in the open position 🤷‍♂️

Took delivery of my Q3 40tfsi Quattro automatic having selected every single option available. But despite being a total replacement for my previous Q3, it could not handle snow and therefore the two hills to my house …… all down to tyres. The car came with Goodyear F1 asymmetrical series 3, so after 600 miles tyres fully replaced by Audi to Michelin cross climate series 2 and the difference was incredible and the car performs exactly as it should.

I'm assuming that you're talking saloon here? If not, I have the Avant and I seriously wouldn't worry about the boot space, the main difference is that the boot floor is about an inch or so higher than the non-hybrid version which does cause a small lip but nothing to worry about it's still massive, you just lose a bit of headroom. The rear seats also don't fold flat with the boot and have a similar lip between the seat back and the boot floor. I'd take some pics but it's currently stacked full of PA equipment! 😆 If you are talking saloon, then all of the above is of no help whatsoever (but might help others) & hopefully someone else can answer your query.

Mine does this from time to time. It seems to me this is relative to a safety system not a mechanical issue. The handle of the door releases the latch but not the lock. So on pulling the latch is released but the lock doesn’t. if you pull the lever in less of a rush I find myself not having to pull twice. you can try some self diagnosis. fault find 1: step 1 put the car in park and hand break applied. step 2 open the door if the car does not release the lock on first pull. There potentially is a fault. Fault find 2: step 1 apply brake pedal, put vehicle into drive/neutral. step 2 open the door, if the car does not immediately open on 1st pull, check if the car is in park, and handbrake applied if so pull again if it releases this means the car prevented you from leaving whilst in drive and changed, in which during that time ensured you remained in the vehicle until it had prevented the car from moving. if it did not/did go into park and handbrake applied but won’t open it means there is a fault requiring further diagnosis.

I had this problem before the problem I'm having now. It stopped. My mechanic changed the glow plugs been fine since.

I got mine from here £179 with tool kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183664404679?hash=item2ac34068c7:g:8UEAAOSwh9pa1bg0&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8MHx0i01eJUCR1eVvLVr5P3%2Ffbmxjuh7k2XW9lfIER2SAgk8QK8i77ELE%2FvFbRsZFgjLUIxl4LuniTuM8bNwnW%2FBMdl7p5ri%2BFRF3UJOa08EvQVgQORx71BodnEh0vrdXYtHbjug6lMwGsSO3QmcmhpDAyy%2Budhd3EbhxrXgPbq5clNEeOXg%2B%2FuL13IROEXl%2FknHKCGbDCIJp2OUROjOkESpJUO6QXvxRAvEY9c3YKVq7%2FUu3hAk7vXQW4UGXnR1LGjH0dDGIoT9DG8yoMWegaMrtNgpTNHLE0xju%2BDcEa7SDEmzsESZ9livNDGSPJpJfg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMwrbI3_Rh Same seller does it at £165 no tool kit.