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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

From the admin team we would like to wish a Happy New Year to all our members 🎉✨🎊 Thank you for your ongoing support and contributions over the last year, it's greatly appreciated 😊 May your 2025 be prosperous happy and healthy!!

My W12 swapped B7 A4 Avant. Running D3 A8 W12 and B7 A4 TDI 6spd 0A3

Had this message appear on Friday night. Thankfully having read this tale, I knew exactly what to do - ordered one off ebay £14.99 it arrived today and was fitted tonight in less than 5 mins - great forum.

It is cam chain. No reason to replace unless you have rattle at start up. Regular oil and filter changes will help keep the engine in good condition, ideally around 8k miles. Ignore long life service regimes, that’s what kills engines. If for arguments sake it needed replacement chains, guides, sprockets and tensioners, it’s an engine out job. Check out VAG Technic on YouTube. On performance Audi RS and S models, they are constantly stripping them down due to premature fault with rocker arms and needle bearings. In terms of maintenance then pretty sure this is 218 is S Tronic 7-speed box. Needs gear oil and filter change every 40k miles. Fuel filter every 20k miles. Once you get to 100k miles, treat rear diff to a fluid change. Worth investing in VCDS even if you’re not spanner handy, as will pinpoint fault codes, and useful for things like coding battery, etc. Gave up on main dealers years ago due to ludicrous costs. Find a trusted garage that knows these cars inside out. It’s got air suspension which is pretty robust.

Very nice 👍

There are good and bad independants, just as there are good and bad main dealers. You will have to research the reputations of those near you for yourself. As a generalisation I recommend independants because they give better service and are more approachable. Often they are also cheaper. Bear in mind that independants survive solely on their reputations; unlike main dealers there is no central organisation behind them to prop them up.

Hi all. Just bought my first A5 from an A6. Here's my pic of 18 plate 2.0 TFSI.

Away from work this week but check if you have a sensor on/near the thermostat housing also. quite common to have 2 different temperature sensors that are used by different systems. A basic obd2 reader might only be able to access engine related sensors not body controller sensors. Check wiring and condition of connector pins one the sensors and if possible back probe the sensors to check resistance readings with a meter. resistance should change with coolant temperature change and be progressive. that’s a few basic checks worth trying before sending cluster away

If the outer diameter of the plastic pipe is 5.6/5.7 mm I would buy fuel pipe with internal bore of 5mm and warm in boiling water for a few minutes before fitting, secure with clamps of correct diameter for hose outer diameter, be quick when replacing and when starting give it a boot of revs for a few minutes and with any luck the air will be pushed thru with the revs fluttering a few times.

I was refunded by Audi Executive Office when they finally accepted the 7 year warranty actually existed. The warranty wasn't announced to Audi staff with any kind of fanfare. It was just sneaked in as if it had always been there but everyone was in denial to start with as I suspect they genuinely knew nothing about it. Even now I doubt it will be easy for you but you must keep fighting. They even told me that once my original alternator had been disposed of there was no way of identifying whether it was covered by the warranty or not. Good luck!

My wife's Ford Focus CC did this because the window freezes to the rubber surround sometimes. Some Gummi fledge on the rubber stopped it.

Ryan. The only reason for a clutch to overheat is slippage, caused either by poor driver control or severe wear. If you can eliminate those factors then there must be a fault in either the master and/or slave cylinder. How many miles has the clutch done? Does the driver ride the clutch at junctions etc? Is the clutch "bite point" about half way up the pedal travel when it is working? Does the engine speed increase without a corresponding increase in road speed? Answers to those questions will us identify where the problem lies.

Hello everyone, Just back from the dealer where I've signed for my 2022 A5 40 TFSI 204 S-Line 2 Door S Tronic. Very excited to pick up later this week. I can't believe how much the car has advanced since my last A5 which was around 2015. Look forward t chatting to you all. I've no specific questions yet, but who knows what's to come?!

Any cheap multi meter (less than £10 from Ebay,) will be adequate for testing voltage and continuity on a car, but don't be tempted to use it for serious electrical work at higher voltages despite what the vendor may claim. However you will need to learn how and where to use it to avoid injury to yourself or damage to the car. That's beyond the scope of what we can do in a forum like this, so you may be better off employing somebody who knows his way around a car.

Hi Dave dont forget the ton of oil level sensors they sell and the rubbish trigger sensors on the bonnet hinge, so when you do your change make sure you put in the precise amount of oil and take it for a ten minute drive, leave it for fifteen minutes and then without opening the bonnet checked the level on the MMI otherwise it mostly tells you the level is too low and once you have added more oil too high. Steve.

Hi Mark, Going from the Reg nuber you DMed me, it looks like the pump is 028 130 115M There is a VW service kit 038 198 051D, which is suitable. He says a Bosch seal kit is available from Autodoc for just over £12. I hope this helps. Mike 🙂

Good morning all, the latest update I have at the moment is, the car went in again on the 30/12, the mechanic told me there is nothing wrong…!!!? Well, I thought I would now get a second opinion on this. I took the car to the same dealership, but at different location , they are now going to have the car for the day and investigate thoroughly on 9/1/25 , so I am hoping we can get to the bottom of this somehow.

Hi Gareth, thanks for your interest. The receipt says Minor service, oil and filter. it is indeed a diesel and I have no issue with the colour of the oil that’s to be expected on a diesel. The consistency though is that of a VAG group diesel not serviced for at least a year in my opinion based on my experience, the oil filter also backs that up in my opinion. this post was really just a point to say, if you do get a new used car, get it serviced straight away by a trusted garage, or if your capable do it yourself so you know it’s done right. Thanks, Dave

That’s crazy! And surely very dangerous! I’ve since been to Audi and you need to toggle off 2 bits to deactivate.

thank you all

I'll look forward to seeing pics of it out on the road 🙂

Happy new year all, well iv kept the audi can't sell her she too nice, took her for a m.o.t and she failed on a stering arm bush it had a split in it, don't ask why but I didn't tighten 2 wheel nuts properly 🤷‍♂️, rear plate light went off, esp light but that needs calibration done, so got new plates for her to go on

80Nm + 90 degrees for the bearing and carrier triple square bolts. Personally only fit a quality bearing, such as F.A.G. or similar, that will be OE. Make sure the hub face is spotless before torquing up the new bearing and carrier flange. There will be aluminium oxide when the old one is removed, but a wire brush assembly on a drill is perfect. For the driveshaft bolt, it’s 200Nm plus 180 degrees. Importantly, the axle cannot be on the weight of the vehicle. More details here.

I will as soon as I have any news

Hi it could be a damaged wire on the plug for the clutch position sensor, somewhere on here is an old post for an A4 which runs the same system the guy ended up Buying an IDOS system [expensive] but it does electrical test and trace in the wiring loom, other than that I can only suggest a good auto electrician, all this is based on your wiring bypass of the clutch position sensor. Steve.

Hope non of you experience this kind of Christmas tree

The front snub mount is there to keep your engine from jumping up when the power is put on. It seems to me that I would check your motor mounts and transmission mounts. Could be a transmission mount failure causing you to break the front mount. Like a lever action pulls up on one side and down on the other.

Sounds like it has been deleted/disabled on the ECU. Lucky you.

This video might help:

Many thanks Richard, seems a lot of work but I do like the car so it will be worth it.

Thanks fellas, I've ordered a new heater matrix and will fit it when it arrives. 👍

Thanks Steve. Useful if disappointing news. My z4 has a similar bi-xenon set up and you can drive at daytime speeds at night - traffic permitting !

Ideally never run the engine without coolant so turn off before draining, you will never get all the coolant out so don’t worry too much, bottem hose is best as should drain down to Lowest point but pull as many as you want. if coolant is hot the thermostat should be open which would help

I'm not an expert on the error codes so I cant add much there but as someone who has had this occur on 2 separate vehicles with a full alternator melt down I have to say that what has happened to you doesnt sound like the same fault. On both occasions both cars I had were literally dead - they could not restart. The yellow warning was followed about 10 mins maybe slightly longer by the red and every error and light then complete loss of power and then anything inside the car, even the SOS. A jump start if I recall got it running, but without the alternator I would simply not have got far at all - perhaps a few miles which the AA did suggest to get it to the nearest dealer. I would be suspicious of an issue with the wiring loom or other component that suffered from the water exposure - its one thing to hit surface water but quite another to potentially submerge components in a ford. Whilst i'd still be saying to audi it is a fault and needs investigating, my own experience of the failures was that there was absolutely no way that you could continue to drive the car - but you seem to be able to - it had to have a new alternator.....just my 10 pence worth - I would however push them to investigate the issue FOC assuming you have no warranty or extended warranty as it feels like a safety issue - maybe raise this with executive relations at audi and slant it towards the alternator and see if they will apply goodwill to check the fault ?

Can understand that. I was doing a brake strip down on my 7 year old B9 A4 with 60k miles in the summer and carrier bolts were seized solid. Tried an air gun and spanner and jack approach, but no success. Because of their location it’s difficult to get a breaker bar on them, unless the car is lifted. In the end, bought new bolts from Audi and got local garage to remove the old ones. Fitted new bolts with a smear of anti seize ceramic paste.

Ask ECU Testing. I know they can do modern instrument clusters, so maybe they can repair yours.

They can code and retrofit. Other members have used them and been happy with the results

You are preaching to the converted here David. You need to get your message to the gullible public.

Hi as you say it can be deactivated there are a couple of videos on YouTube already but nothing about permanently disabling the system, the full system is law in Europe where as Steve Q said it actually cuts your speed down for you but there are reports of drivers on motorways quite happily. cruising along at 65mph and the camera spots a 30mph sign on a parallel road and promptly reduces your speed to 30mph, this is the same as collision pre sense, my mate has an Alfa Giulia which is a lovely car in daylight but of a night if it spots a lampost on a badly lit lane it just slams on the brakes. Steve.

Happy New Year to you John. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 looks a stunning allroad. I've seen you post it on the various A6 groups which I'm in.

"wow" that was loose glad its sorted before the heavy rain and winds hit us

Kevin. I have merged your two identical topics into one and moved them from the Introductory section to the A3 section. Please do not create duplicate topics.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

David. This topic is a duplicate so I am locking this one. Posing the same question several times will not gain you any advantage.

Had to fix problems like this before and feel for you, the headlamps on these are quite basic compared to newer generations, you best bet is to buy yourself a power probe, works like a voltmeter but indicates if you have probed a live or earth and what voltage, can check continuity and best of all supply a live or earth feed at touch of a button. take time and probe each wire on the car plug switching headlamps on and off to identify each wires function, typically only 1 earth for complete light, larger lives will be main and dipped lives, indicator live is easy as voltage switches quickly, drl is always live but voltage will drop when indicator is on or dipped beam. headlamp leveling is abit of a pain as looking for change in voltage when car starts as should do a level test but leave that to last and hopefully will only have 2 wires. Responding to old post but hopefully help someone

Its a cracking motor - thanks for pici's and enjoy your ownership.

Many thanks for an excellent review from Paul, which is far, far beyond expectation usage for normal owners - couldn’t wish for better. Thanks also to Keith for expressing his gratitude. The two don’t come together very often, so many thanks to you both. Keep us posted Keith, and happy hunting. Kind regards, Gareth.