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Thanks for Everyone who’s posted on this topic, Same issue apart from my car is used every day. I ended up buying one from an Audi dealer £100. As I had a week of long journeys, poss could have risked it and waiting for the e-bay delivery but I’ll never know. Anyway in my head I’ve still saved £150 fitting it myself instead of thinking of the £80 difference of the same part. I still ordered one from eBay and now I’ve a cheap spare. Thanks again for the advise I can’t imagine there are too many sensors on a modern car you can get to so easily 😊😊👍

Whether it is worthwhile is a judgement only you can make, depending on how attached you are to the car. In your place I would get the cost of repair and compare it to how much you are willing to pay for a different car.

When I got my Q5, I was painfully aware of just how scratched and dented the centre trim was. Decided it was finally time to rip out the whole centre console so I could remove the offending trim. Replacing with a standard trim would just end up the same way, the carbon replacements are either too expensive or poor fitting so instead I used some alloy wheel repair filler to fill in all the dents and scratches. After a few hours to cure I got on with the boring job of sanding it down. Got some carbon fibre wrap and set to work. Took me forever to get to this stage but as it was my first attempt at wrapping I expected as much. Carefully put everything back together and here is the end result. Think it's turned out rather nicely 😎

Hi There, thank you for your reply , I took the car to the paint shop and the people have this device that scans the paint you are trying to match , and brings up the paint code , so if anyone is needing the paint code for Audi Matt Grey it’s LMi7, thanks again for the help much appreciated .

Further to my above post 3 weeks ago, my A6 has reluctantly now been traded in with Audi and I have a replacement car. A shame because I really like the A6 (my 3rd) but could not tolerate the inherent unreliability and likely forthcoming big bills. I have spent time googling Audi + Vitesco, then making use of google translate and reading the various posts on the German websites and forums. (For those not aware, Vitesco appears to be the manufacturer of 48V equipment for these models including the notorious BSG or RSG in German - RiemenStarterGenerator). Clearly liability and fault for all these problems is a major discussion between the two companies which seems far from resolution according to the reports and will be hugely expensive however the legal process pans out. One piece of perhaps relevant information from the motor-talk.de forums suggests that the early "potentially faulty" BSGs had a serial number commencing in 4N0, whereas the SN of the more recent "good" BSGs commence with 4N1. So to possibly answer my own question, I reckon the more recent models with the 48V system may well have the issue fully sorted, which is a glimmer of good news for those such as me who like the concept of the system, despite the poor execution of it. Perhaps surprisingly, I remain a fan of Audi cars as a brand, though the company's poor handling and lack of ownership of the whole BSG issue is simply dreadful. Nonetheless, to anyone buying a new or used Audi with the 48V MHEV system, a long extended warranty would be a very good investment I reckon.

Quick update - Martin at Bolton Car Interiors did a fantastic job, communicated really well and was reasonably priced for what was a unique job which no other garage could do. So indirectly he saved me 000's of pounds. Great place if you ever need any work doing.

Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

Fit whatever capacity is recommended by the manufacturer, but please ensure you install a good quality battery. Varta and Exide are two names that come to mind, though there are others whose names escape me. Avoid like the plague any cheapie from the internet or the likes of KwikFit.

Car is coming up for 14 years old, so financially it’s probably worth more to you than it’s actually worth. If you traded in, it’s not likely to be a retail car, and would probably go to auction. The advisories are related to multi link suspension arm or bushes. If you’re replacing one on one side side, then it makes sense to do the other side too. This includes front and rear arms. Audi use Lemforder or Meyle HD, anything else will wear prematurely in my opinion. Decent arms can be anywhere from £50-£150 each plus fitting. In addition you’ll need a tracking check, say £80-£100. Audi are known for subframe issues. The subframe is powder coated, so road dirt, salt and water start to corrode on damaged surfaces. You can’t fully sort it unless you remove the subframe and get it powder coated, that’s unrealistic. What you can do, is get the underside of the car jet washed, and dried, wire brush bad areas, potentially apply rust converter then apply wax-oil or Lanoguard. That should keep corrosion at bay for another 2-3 years before you need to reapply. Expect to pay £300-400.

A dying battery can indeed cause all the symptoms you describe. Get it tested if you want confirmation, but in your place I would not hesitate to replace an eight year old battery. Don't forget to get it coded to the car. PS The volt meter readings tell you nothing about the internal condition of the battery.

Hi either 27mm or 32mm unless they changed the sizes again, the correct size is stamped on the top of the housing. Steve.

Morning all, thanks for letting me in !

Welcome Edd, and thanks for joining. There is a lot of conjecture about ‘mayo’ and jumping to the conclusion that it is a definite indication of head gasket failure. I would say in your case that it is certainly due to/ aggravated by unacceptably short runs, and the fact that the engine doesn’t reach operating temperature - even if the thermostat was serviceable - which it isn’t! The fact is Edd, this engine is having a hammering, and is likely to suffer from the equivalent wear that would be encountered on a car operated on motorways and having done say x10 times the mileage of yours. Before going any further let’s start with an important question:- how often is the oil changed and when was it last changed? Kind regards, Gareth.

Massive thanks to Richard aka Spartacus 68 for recommending Tomas at VAG Technic who is very familiar with this problem and can fix it 🙂

Hi OE, Gates, Dayco, Continental, if you dont change the water pump you will live to regret that choice, most kits worth the money come with the lot, belt ,idler pulley, tensioner, water pump and new bolts. Steve.

Hello, Why on earth Autodoc and spurious brands?? Whatever you do, do not buy on price for this critical application - always buy quality parts at best prices. I’ve always stuck with Gates, who were one of the OE suppliers to VAG. I don’t have any connection with this company, but try entering your reg. no. into Parts in Motion ( Exeter ) website and see what their prices are. When you have done that, look on EBay for their listings for the chosen part - often a little cheaper via. this route. Unlike Autodoc, they do free delivery. Always renew the auxiliary belt at the same time. 135k miles an cambelt never? renewed? Glad you got away with that one! Please let us know what prices you come up with. As has been said, worth checking parts price at Audi for comparison. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Where is Rogers?

You’re asking a generic question. There are multiple engine variants on 1.4TFSI platform. If your mates are doing it, get OE, it’s probably less than you think. Failing that a recognised and respected timing belt manufacturer, such as Gates, Continental, etc. This is a critical component, don’t cut corners due to cost.

Just a quickie to introduce myself as a new member. My names Kev & I live in the Manchester area. Recently bought a 2020 Q7.

That it leaks more when the engine is running suggests it is the shaft seal. Speculating further, is it possible the crankcase ventilation is not working properly? I am wondering if excess pressure in the crankcase is actively blowing oil out.

Hello John, I do feel for you. In your situation, I think it would be a ‘good investment’ to spend an hour’s labour with a trusted local garage, with a view to better sourcing the site/s of the leak. Kind regards, Gareth.

The car was sold to someone else so my decision was made for me. Maybe it was meant to be. Still, I’m interested in a 2.0TFSI Quattro Avant so the search continues. I’ll have a look on here, see if there’s anything for sale. Thanks everyone for your advice

Dealer or private sale Will? If the latter, my angle on any private sale is don’t get interested in purchasing any vehicle from anyone, unless it has a V5 registered to the owner at the address you are viewing it at. Length of ownership would also be important to me. It could end in tears. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well she went for her m.o.t and a pass

I just purchased a 2007 A4 S Line B7 so thought i would post a pic of how it is all i have done is

When steel rusts it expands, thereby pushing adjacent parts away from each other. That's why rusty bolts are a swine to remove and brake discs are pushed out of alignment.

Fuses don't just "go" for no reason. They fuse because the circuits they protect are being over loaded. Evidently the fitting of the dash cam has caused such an overload so my suggestion is that you have it removed, or re-fitted by somebody who knows what he is doing.

Hi Charles, Obviously I dont know how long you will be staying in the S/Wales area, but if that light is staying on and a cause of concern, it might be worth a conversation with, or better still a visit to R-Tec. Anyway, best of luck getting it sorted.

Did your parking sensors deactivate when you plugged in your caravan as they should if it was coded and wired correctly. No fogs on your car makes me think that someone has made a mess of wiring in the tow socket

I would suggest employing a trusted auto electrician before considering replacing the seat - which seems rather extreme. If the motor will move the seat in one direction then it points to it at least being electrically efficient. Kind regards, Gareth.

Edward. I have just noticed you are in the USA where the legal situation will be rather different to Britain. Neverthless I doubt that the onus is on you to diagnose defects in a new car. If the car is defective there must surely be a way for you to reject it.

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Hello Rob, The recommended way to check compression is to remove all plugs before carrying out this procedure so the engine spins freely. As Cliff says 110psi is too low. Well worth repeating with the above procedure and you may find you get higher readings. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charles, I live in South Wales and take my Audi S7 to R-Tec of Swansea 01792 897575 They have just moved to a new workshop facility in Gorseinon, Swansea and its an impressive set up. They do all Germen cars and high performance vehicles, but they specialise in Audi's. They do get busy and so if you need to book your car in, dont delay too long Regards Chris

Thanks for letting us know.

There are 3 actuators that control the air flow. They have sensors in them which tells the control module their position. The sounds you are hearing are the actuators cycling and trying to sence their position which they cant. So they remain open and allow the hot air to come in. VCDSS would tell you which one is at fault, in any ways they have to be replaced. Items 4, 6 or 7 To the begining Air-conditioning system with electronic regulation for Audi A4/Avant(A4) 2002 [EUROPA] № part number description remark unit model Air-conditioning system with electronic regulation 1 8E1 820 021 E Fan lhd 1 1 8E2 820 021 E Fan rhd 1 2 8E1 820 511 F actuator motor for air flow flap lhd light blue V71 1 3 8E1 820 511 D positioning motor for recirculated air operation lhd blue V 113 1 3 8E2 820 511 D positioning motor for recirculated air operation rhd blue V 113 1 4 8E1 820 511 B Servomotor for defroster flap lhd green V 107 1 4 8E2 820 511 B Servomotor for defroster flap rhd green V 107 1 5 8E1 820 511 G control motor for temperature regulating flap left lhd red V 158 1 5 8E2 820 511 E control motor for temperature regulating flap right rhd yellow V 159 1 6 8E1 820 511 K actuator motor, footwell flap foot well flap lhd white V 70 1 6 8E2 820 511 H actuator motor, footwell flap foot well flap rhd black V 70 1 7 8E1 820 511 H control motor for temperature regulating flap right lhd violet V 159 1 7 8E2 820 511 F control motor for temperature regulating flap left rhd brown V 158 1 8 8E1 820 353 B Air distribution housing lhd 1 8 8E2 820 353 B Air distribution housing rhd 1 9 8E2 820 024 Evaporator housing rhd 1 9 8E1 820 024 Evaporator housing lhd 1 10 8E1 820 153 Intake duct lhd 1 10 8E2 820 153 Intake duct rhd 1 11 8E1 819 151 Footwell vent lhd 1 11 8E2 819 151 Footwell vent rhd 1 15 8E1 820 103 evaporator F >> 8E-3-285 000* lhd 1 15 8E1 820 103 A evaporator F 8E-3-285 001>>* lhd 1 15 8E2 820 103 evaporator F >> 8E-3-285 000* rhd 1 15 8E2 820 103 A evaporator F 8E-3-285 001>>* rhd 1 16 8E1 820 031 heat exchanger also use: lhd 8E0 898 380 1, 1 16 8E2 820 031 heat exchanger also use: rhd 8E0 898 380 1, 1 17 4B1 819 011 Auxiliary heater for air conditioner LLKG Z35 1 17 4B2 819 011 Auxiliary heater for air conditioner RLKG Z35 1 20 8E0 898 380 Gasket set 1 21 8E1 898 350 1 set: pipes for heat exchanger also use: lhd 8E0 898 380 1, , 1 21 8E2 898 350 1 set: pipes for heat exchanger also use: rhd 8E0 898 380 1, , 1 23 8E0 820 992 A Bungs 1 24 8E1 816 311 air hose for models with cool box lhd 1 24 8E2 816 311 air hose for models with cool box rhd 1 - 8E0 820 701 Vent for vehicles with air condit. Glove compartment 1 8E0 820 701 4 PK soul (black) 25 1K0 907 543 A Temperature sensor G 263 1 26 N10 424 101 hexagon head panel screw 4X16 X 28 4B0 820 539 Temperature sensor G 262 1 29 4B0 820 539 Temperature sensor G 261 1 30 8E1 260 113 A water drain pipe lhd 1 30 8E2 260 113 A water drain pipe rhd 1 34 8E0 260 155 drain tube 1 37 8E1 819 079 Retaining bar lhd 1 37 8E2 819 079 Retaining bar rhd 1 38 N01 028 73 Hexagon bolt M6X16 4 39 N90 457 003 hexagon head bolt (combi) M6POWX15, 5-S1 1 40 8E0 820 539 Temperature sensor evaporator G89 1 41 Discont. / replace: 8E1 898 400 8E2 898 400 1, 1 lhd rhd 42 Discont. / replace: 8E1 898 400 8E2 898 400 1, 1 lhd rhd 43 Discont. / replace: 8E1 898 400 8E2 898 400 1, 1 lhd rhd 44 8E1 898 400 1 set attachment parts for heat exchanger lhd 1 44 8E2 898 400 1 set attachment parts for heat exchanger rhd 1 45 N10 095 101 Clamp 8X17 1 47 4B1 819 164 Cover for models without auxiliary heater lhd 1 47 4B2 819 164 Cover for models without auxiliary heater RLKG 1 - 8E0 819 425 B Cover cap 1 - 8E1 898 001 B 1 set: levers for air distribution housing lhd 1 - 8E2 898 001 B 1 set: levers for air distribution housing rhd 1 - 8E0 898 001 1 set: levers for air distribution housing Defroster flap F >> 8E-4-280 000* 1 - 8E0 898 001 A 1 set: levers for air distribution housing Defroster flap F 8E-4-280 001>>* 1

Yes, it's going to a local Audi specialist next Tuesday, I'm sure the first thing they'll do is read the codes, and then maybe a compression test to rule out the head gasket, but as said they told me over the phone that was unlikely to be the issue. If the thermostat is faulty then yes that will be replaced, and does look like it needs another oil change too. So all depends on their assessment, I'll update this thread after they've had a look at it. Thanks for the suggestions so far.

Finally had a new battery fitted, the car was throwing up all sorts of errors on the dash, ‘ put in P or N to start’ when it already was and clicking on the key several times before actually turning over. Seems to be sorted apart from a ‘fuel pressure fault’ which only appears in a diagnostic and keeps returning after being cleared. Had it booked in at an Audi dealer but in a nutshell they let me down with no apology so got back in car and drove home, 60 mile round trip wasted. Car drives fine ( start/stop works) . Local mechanic is unable to narrow down the fault and it was him who suggested Audi. Any ideas what to do now ? Thanks in advance

What was the result of Halfords visit? Did they test the battery?

Hi Spartacus 68/Richard, Thanks for reply and the "price range" estimate. It's not a question of "walk away". I'm not buying this car (my passion is a large V12 Series 3 Jaguar Sovereign). I'm trying to help my friend whose plans have been changed due to illness. Having been smitten by the car his mistake was not to be more thorough in collecting all the history from the selling garage. Regards Peter

I’m in Bargoed Gareth and on top of this since I’ve had a tow bar fitted I don’t have any rear fog lights on the car. But when my caravan is plugged in the fogs on the caravan work fine, so I’m thinking that’s a programming issue. Need to get the above fixed asap MOT due April.

Suicide birds is what I call them. I don't object to their urge for self destruction, but why must they inflict so much damage to innocent cars?

Do you really mean the tank can not be filled, or is the problem actually that the fuel guage does not show full?

Extended warranties are not worth the paper they are written on. That applies to all brands of car and all dealers, new or secondhand. They invariably exclude anything you might reasonably want to claim on.

Just had a look on YouTube for videos: https://youtu.be/5GQ91HyQfdw?si=EawMm5ebZHe1jvSy

Yeah the spring mounts took about 2.5 hours to do both sides, just dropped the shock bottom bolt off and used a set of spring compressor's and a little help from a bottle jack and extension tube pushing off the top shock mount pushing the to push the suspension down wards. I have been looking getting brakes from LLL parts have anyone used them ?

Hello Charles, Where abouts in S.Wales? - big area! I have used a small independent west of St. Clears to good effect. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charles, Is S. Wales a typo for S.West? - due to your location being Cornwall. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well got the control arms went to put them on wrong ones there too big 14mm was correct just too wide to fit in the hole on the v part the 8K0407695C item number don't come up on there system, the part number you need is ss2721 left side and ss2722 for the right side, not sure if the other ones are for the a5 can't get my money back as I put them on the car but thay did me a deal on the correct ones so if these fit your car just 50.00 I payd 130.00

Definitely a tough one. My poor A6 has now sat nearly 2 years. As I say it's the coding nonsense that's the problem. Gone are the days where you fit any engine you like unfortunately

You are on the right path. Low data usage requests like weather and smart home integration go via the built-in Audi SIM (the one that's used for OTA map updates). All entertainment requests that consume more data (e.g. Amazon Music) require that a second wireless connection known as "APN2" is active. APN2 can be activated by: 1. Purchasing a data plan from Audi - https://audi.cubictelecom.com/en/; 2. Inserting an active SIM card into the APN2 SIM slot; or, 3. Connecting a phone that supports Bluetooth Remote SIM access profile (rSAP) to the infotainment system. Hope that helps.