Leaderboard

Had the same issue. Just give the polystyrene holder a firm pull and it will come out.

@Magnet No Gareth. £695.00 for the two years cover - paid upfront OR a 24 monthly payments. No interest. You've added the upfront payment to the 24x monthly ones and so paying twice for everything! 🙂 Give me credit Gareth! My fairly 'local' garage that i know, deal mainly with 4x4s. They'd be wanting in excess of £695 to match the equivalent of what the Audi garage will do and give. The £695 also includes 2 MOTs I’m happy to put my trust in a garage with qualified Audi engineers.

I had a loose wheel speed sensor that was throwing up similar problems with warning lights, might be worth checking mate.

It appears you can, you are 100% right. Matrix LED headlights Upgrade your headlights with Audi Matrix LED technology. Individual diodes automatically switch between dipped and main beam and provide maximum illumination of the road, without dazzling other road users. Light function package Unlock an extra lighting function that adapts to surroundings to enhance visibility when on motorways, cornering and at junctions. The Light function package also includes lighting ‘animations’ that play when locking and unlocking your car. High beam assist Upgrade to High beam assist to enable the headlights to automatically detect oncoming traffic, the rear lights of other road users and light sources in built-up areas. The High beam is switched on or off automatically, depending on the traffic situation.

I replaced the CCM in my '03 A6 C5 1.9TDI with one that had the identical part number a couple of months ago and it was completely plug and play. Your key fobs will need to be reprogrammed however, but it's a really quick and straightforward job if you have two. I posted a guide in the C5 forum that explains it step by step. Hope that helps you mate. Edit I've just noticed the CCM in your avant ends in an N and the saloon in a K, weirdly the one in my saloon is an N, go figure.

Refurburbishing alloys is a thankless task, and to be honest it’s one of these things best left to the professionals and powder coating, rebalance, etc. That’s different if it was just a scuff, but this is a full strip-down. The time, cost of materials, including zinc etch primer, base coat primer, colour coat and a few coats of lacquer soon mounts up. If you’re determined to do it, then the alloys need to be spotless. Paint wise, then Würth silver metallic is as close to Audi OE as you’ll get.

Could be a heat shield rattling on the exhaust. Or an issue with the suspension arms when underload.

Thanks Gareth, You're spot on. The replacement window motor didn't solve the problem. However I decided to have a closer look and the wiring loom and found two wires with splits in the plastic coating. I repaired these with insulating tape and it's fixed!

Hey Guys, First time on this forum! I bought an A6 C8 in August 2024, everything seemed well until I noticed a huge puddle behind the drivers seat footwell a few weeks ago. It appears its the same/similar problem everyone is also experiencing, took it to Audi Manchester a few days ago for a check - £145 an hour! they said they needed another 8-10 hours to remove the seats and carpet to identify the leak!! Decided not to pay the £1400 minimum and took the car home. My issue is exactly the same as Mandeep. Will be taking it to an independant garage for a diagnosis (cheaper labour rate) In the meantime drafted a letter to send to Audi head office, I will paste it below in case anyone else needs to use the draft etc Going off all the posts above i'm sure Audi are aware of the issue, whether they will honour the repair remains to be seen, but not holding my breath. I will report back once I have had a response from head office. Dear Audi Customer Services, I hope this message finds you well. My name is ******* *****, and I am reaching out to formally raise an issue with my Audi A6 C8, which I believe stems from a known design flaw. I have been experiencing water pooling under the carpet in the rear footwell, specifically behind the driver’s seat. After conducting some research, I discovered that this is a common problem among Audi A6 C8 owners, and Audi has issued a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) outlining the issue as a design fault. You can view the TSB here: TSB - Audi A6 C8 Water Leak Additionally, I came across this thread on the Audi Owners Club, where other owners have reported the same issue: Discussion Thread - Audi Owners Club This issue is one that Audi is already aware of, and it has even led to a class action lawsuit against the company, specifically related to the water leaks in the Audi A6 C8. This highlights the extent of the problem and reinforces that it is not an isolated issue, but a design flaw that has affected many owners. Despite this being a known problem, I recently paid £152 for a diagnostic check at Manchester Audi, yet they were unable to identify the source of the leak. However, based on my online findings, the TSB issued by Audi, and the class action lawsuit, it is clear that this is not an isolated incident and is related to a design issue, rather than something I have caused or neglected. I am aware that Audi has previously honoured this issue and, on occasion, has fixed the problem free of charge for affected customers. Given that this is a design flaw and not an error on my part, I kindly request that Audi UK address the issue in a similar manner, as a goodwill gesture. I trust that Audi UK will stand by the quality of its vehicles and rectify this issue without further delay. I would appreciate a swift resolution and look forward to your prompt response. Thank you for your attention to this matter. I hope this letter helps someone who may need it.

There seem to be a lot of unknown factors in this conversion Steve, any one of which could bring the project to a dead stop. It is not something I would have taken on even 40 years ago when I was willing and able to get my hands dirty, unless there was certainty about the result.

Thank you.

Brilliant mate, glad you stuck with it and got it sorted. Well done.

SOLVED. I found an index for code in the Steering Column control unit, 3 of the values were incorrect, rewritten - warning symbols have disappeared and power steering is working again. Thank you for the advice.

From the 2018 broshure it looks like it is only in the City Assist pack. Front pre-sense is standard, but rear only with pack. This is the City Assist info and has 3 parts: Audi Side Assist When activated, the system aids the driver when changing lanes. Audi Side Assist monitors the area behind the vehicle, using radar sensors located discreetly in the rear bumper, informing the driver with a visual warning signal in the door mirror if there is a vehicle in their blind spot or approaching quickly from behind Pre-sense Rear Monitors vehicles following from behind, and if a potential collision is detected, the driver is first warned visually via a flashing light. Audi Pre-sense Basic measures (e.g. closing windows) are initiated and then if a collision is unavoidable, the system will tighten the front seat belts. The system is deactivated when towing Cross Traffic Assist Front Within system limits, warns the driver of traffic crossing in front or to the side of the vehicle, using vehicle sensors. The system first alerts the driver visually and then acoustically via the MMI. A brake jolt is applied if a potential collision is detected. The system can also assist the driver at crossings and exits with poor visibility, and warn against a possible collision with oncoming traffic detected from the side

Hi Frank, I agree with all the comments you've received so far, but cant emphasise enough the importance of the offset. I have gone through a wheel changing exercise myself on my Audi and it took me months and months to find wheels I liked and that would fit. The offset can determine where on the hub the wheel will sit and whether its likely to fowl any brake or suspension components. Fortunately there are easily accessible websites that can give you a guide indication of how your new wheel will fit, they will ask you for your existing wheel fitment and the new wheel fitment your proposing. They will ask you for the existing and new wheel radius and width, and also existing and new tyre sizes. They will also ask you for the offset of both existing and new wheels. The offset is often referred to as the 'ET' followed by 2 numbers and this is usually stamped in the wheels casting on the back of the rim. Just as an example my existing wheels had an offset of ET31 (stamped on the reverse of the rim) and the new wheels I was proposing had an offset of ET40. If you want a smooth and not so bumpy ride, try and and avoid tyres with a profile of less that 40. Hope this is helpful

I'll be watching this thread with interest as I have a Cobra alarm fitted to my 1988 Coupe GT. I want to remove/replace it but the car works at the moment........

Yes its resolved, they replaced the outer cv joint again , they think the 1st one was faulty out of the box . Regards

Right guys, I sent all 6 injectors off to be tested, low and behold, injector 3 has zero flow on idle. Got it rebuild, fitted it this evening, and I've got a smooth idle! Took it for a drive, no fault codes and no lights. Low rail pressure seems to have disappeared now too. Just want to say a massive thank you to everyone that gave advise. I can finally get back to work now 😂! Cheers once again!

Quick update on the gearbox issue. Mechanic told me to disconnect battery. Reconnected after half hour and to be fair the gearbox shifted seamlessly then went back into fault from 1-2. I’ve just got the stage 1 remap removed today and no issues at all so far. I’m wondering if the ecu map has caused this as I didn’t get the tcu done. It’s now booked in on the 7th to get looked at anyway. It’s so slow tho.

My bet would be the alarm too. The only way to find it would be to trave the wires from the fusebox. This should be obvious as they'll look different to the rest of the stock loom. Unfortunately these aftermarket alarms can be a problem. If you get a chance watch the old top gear challenge with the 3 series convertibles. Hamonds one had a similar problem.

If this is the engine you have the red box is the electronic EGR control valve, the green box is the vacuum operated EGR cooling flap solenoid.

You can buy sticker kits from ebay that go over the original switches. Very common issue on Audi's of that era. My A6 is the same. https://ebay.us/m/8AMJc7

Just to add if you're needing someone to fit it, then it's worth looking at autologics or Audi retrofits as members have used them and been pleased with the results.

Can’t hear the video, but to be honest between road noice and background noise, these sort of videos rarely identify culprit. If you had new outer CV joint, that may have contributed, especially if drive shaft boot was torn and and CV joint was open to the elements and contaminated. if you’ve got a worn wheel bearing then you’ll hear constant reverberating sound, around about 40-50mph. You might be able to pinpoint if you jack up car, and hold the coil spring and get someone to rotate the wheel. Any friction on the bearing will transfer to the spring which you should feel. Straight forward if your spanner handy, although I hate generation 2 bearings which are the press in hub variety on VW Polos for example. If generation 3 wheel bearing, then they are held in place with triple square bolts. Useful to have air hammer as the bearing is usually welded in with oxide corrosion if an alloy strut. You’ll need a breaker bar, torque wrench, etc. Fit quality F.A.G. Bearings given labour involved.

Thanks Robert, But you are assuming it was correctly serviced before you bought it at 2 years old and at 21k miles. In terms of seeking any contribution from Audi, then assumptions are simply meaningless. You will need to wander into an Audi dealer and request a print out copy of the on-line service history - and hope it was ‘serviced strictly to the book’. Now on to its servicing under your ownership, as was asked - could you now tell us about that, so we can better advise you?

You can order the matrix lights on the myAudi app. I think one off £1 for a month initially on most the in app addons but thereafter user term choice and price dependant on pack.

New Members - please read before posting ! Be civil Don’t post anything that a reasonable person would consider offensive, abusive, or hate speech. Avoid confrontational responses to post content that may be different to your own personal beliefs. Everyone has their own opinion on different matters and this provides for diversity, so please avoid an argument. Be polite It doesn't cost anything to have manners and would be appreciated by the community if you included 'please and thank you' as required in your posts. Keep it clean Don’t post anything obscene or sexually explicit. Respect each other Don’t harass or troll anyone, impersonate people, or expose their private information. Be respectful to Moderating Staff and other members at all times. No politics or religion Nothing starts a fight faster than politics or religion, so we don't allow those discussions. Keep personal information private All posts in the forums are easily found via search engines, so unless you're willing to expose your information to the world, please do not post telephone numbers, e-mail addresses etc in your posts. Have a little patience We are a club made up of members who have to work days or nights so can’t always reply straight away, someone will get back to you as soon as they can, so please be bear with us. Thread titles Be accurate with your topic by giving a brief sentence of the problem, hint or tip you would like to get across to other members. These are not concrete terms with precise definitions — avoid even the appearance of any of these things. If you’re unsure, ask yourself whether you'd go on TV and publicly say it on camera. This is a public forum, and search engines index these discussions. Keep the language, links, and images safe for family and friends. Follow Up Please find the time to follow up your post with a conclusion (such as; that worked, tried that but didn't work, etc) so contributing members can see whether their advice and suggestions worked in this instance. You may receive an email asking you to add a conclusion to your post, please find the time to return to your post and marked it as solved.

Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones. p.s. Please avoid using non specific locations such as U.K., England etc. etc.

You are worrying unnecessarily. 12 mm is plenty and should last months or even years, depending how harsh you are on the brakes and how rusty the discs become.

Update- I seem to have fixed this issue by resetting the MMI- so far so good.

Thanks Cliff, There are a lot of factors to consider. There are pros too. I'll do some more research.

So, I took the convertible out this morning, keeping it in normal performance before it warmed up. After about a mile, I got the flashing glow-plug symbol, and a reduction in power. 🤔 I got to my destination, and switched off. When I restarted, the DPF warning came up, but without the glow-plug lamp, and performance was normal. Now up to normal temperatures, I drove it at 70 in fourth gear for about three miles, but on restart, the DPF symbol is still there. I sat on the driveway with the engine idling, and Carly plugged in. It came up with an odd code - something to do with intermittent signal from the seat belt circuit, and not connected to anything about the engine, so I cleared and rescanned - clean...🤔 I'm going to take it for a spin this afternoon with Carly plugged in to see if anything comes to light. I spoke to my mate at Norwich Audi, who tells me that a forced DPF re-gen is £200 - but advised me to shop around. He also mentioned, in passing, that a new DPF was £2,500... 😱 So, I've got it provisionally booked in at CAT Automotive next Friday, for investigation. Their comment was that they need to see why the DPF isn't re-genning on its own, and cure that problem, rather than just addressing the symptom and forcing a re-gen. I'll keep updating this thread - but please jump in with ideas... Cheers, Mike 😎

Yes, the new battery was replaced following AUDI/VW BATTERY CODING USING VCDS. This was done a few months ago now and car has been working perfectly since(even the Start/Stop system began to kick in again as it hadn't been with my ailing battery). Latest is that I booked the car in at Audi Guildford on Monday for a diagnostic appointment(£150) and included the fault code output I posted here. I took the car out for a brief road test earlier and even after driving it quite hard(>5000 rpm), there were NO further issues, NO EPC warning light etc., so all seemed good(I wasn't driving hard when the fault happened). My opinion is that the fault was triggered by the hot weather we had yesterday in the UK, that coupled with possibly some part of the fuel system that has degraded over the past 11 years. Hopefully, Audi(Lookers) can shed some light on whether anything needs replacing. My main concern was whether the car was still drivable after yesterday and all I can say is so far so good. I'll be wary the next time I'm on a long run though 😬. Any comments ? Thanks, Richard

I replaced the sensor and the fault disappeared you can watch on you tube how to replace it was a bit fiddly but took minutes. I have a q5 2019

I have just downloaded via the SD drive in my car a software 'patch' created by https://www.vagcarcoding.com This solved the software fault. DAB now fully operational.

Range control is the level sensors on the front and rear lower control arms, easily damaged when working on suspension, I snapped mine so 3d printed a new arm from an A6 all-road air suspension sensor. They can also go bad when the abs sensors break.

I really like the Irish sense of humour!

Brilliant mate and many thanks 😊

There's a lot of documented case of motorway chargers not working. If you bought it on finance it might be worth contacting the finance company about your issue.

Audi dealers are notoriously expensive when it comes to repairs. Have you tried a local garage/repair shop? I assume such places still exist in the USA.

I've never been but it's supposed to be a good show.

Why, oh why ECP? Not competitive any more?

The clusters can't be swapped out easily as they have the imobiliser built in.

To add to Gareth's advice, on older audi models if the hazard switch fails or starts to fail it can cause the I dictators to play up. If that's the case the cure is a new hazard switch

Welcome Kieran and thanks for joining. I take it you have a multimeter and have checked to ensure a good earth on that side, and presumable an absence of 12v -? If so, it would be well worth checking the wiring within the flexible harness section twixt body and tailgate. A favourite location for fractured cables. Regards, Gareth.

Hi all. Does any one have info or Wiring diagram for our problem. This is that the when unlocking the front top latch to release the hood nothing happens as should, windows do not drop and button to raise rear hood cover flap does not operate. This my wife's Cabrio owed since new in 1992. Many thanks Jack

thats the only picture he sent me or i would have posted another!! thank you so so much all for your guys help, so so appreciative and will keep you all updated!!! 🙂

Hello John, I believe the rear camber is adjusted by the ‘off centre’ outboard wishbone bolt, which rotates on its off-centre axis, to adjust the alignment. The adjustment is of course very fine. If I’m understanding it correctly, you feel the offender is the original wishbone ( and of course bolt), whereas you feel the newly replaced wishbone ( and bolt?) is satisfactory. Odd! Obviously, more critical than the bolt and its correct rotational position, is the bush in the lower section of the hub carrier. Was this renewed when the wishbone and spring were replaced? Have you checked the near side bush? Any amount of DIYing adjustment will be fruitless, so just forget it. Way forward as I see it:- Check outer ( and inner in fact) bushes for wear. Buy and fit new adjusting bolts - usually listed on EBay as genuine VAG. Get the car realigned on professional equipment. In case it help:- I use my local ATS folks, since they seem to know what they are doing, and more importantly, you can talk to them. Yours? Beware of claims of super systems. I find that the equipment is indeed sophisticated, but the operator’s knowledge of how to use it, may not be so sophisticated! Could you come back to us with the answers to the questions John, Kind regards, Gareth,

Hello Stephen and welcome. If this were mine, I would treat this on a one thing at one time principle. Not reaching temperature is typical of a failing/failed thermostat, so that would need investigating and then renewing to ensure the car is operating at the optimum temperature. Once it’s operating at 90 degrees, you can then set in motion a plan of action for the remaining issues. Kind regards, Gareth.