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Anyone interested in going to this show? Has been great in the past. This year's Jap Vs German with Rogue Static's own twist is back again at our newest venue Aldwinians rugby club in Manchester. bringing the people of Manchester some stunning motors and a great atmosphere all aimed at for the love of cars, don't have a Jap or German motor? not an issue we welcome everyone. We are asking for £5 per car on entry, which will all be donated to our fantastic charity "SSAFA the armed forces charity" who we have proudly supported for years now. there will be trades, food and facilities as per usual with our events, please be aware that the pitch is out of bounds but we are now able to place light vehicles on the apron near the pitch which now gives us more vehicular room than last time. our marshalls and event staff will all have two way radios in case of emergency and all relevant R.A.M.S have been supplied to the venue. So with that all taken care of all you have to do is click going, pop it on your calendar and show up 😁 Traders confirmed: MAS Decals Swan Lady 3D Scratch entertainment (aka DJ Liam) Virtual Rides (VR rollercoaster) Squid Ink Detailing The Coffee Guy And our special guest Dan Red Media we have three Handcrafted awards to give out too: Best Japanese car Best German Car Best in Show This is a static event and we keep to our policy of park up keys out whilst attending our events anyone caught being a !Removed! will be asked to leave and escorted from the venue, better it's us than the venues manager 😉 no tickets just pay in entry our staff will be on hand with donations buckets when you arrive and throughout the day every little can help those in need greatly and we thank you all in advance.

Thanks for being in touch Linds. When you say your small garage tightened the belt, and it now makes a noise - concerns. I’m also intrigued to work out how you actually know the belt is tighter than it was. If (in caps) the belt is tighter than it should be, are you happy to entrust the fitting of a new belt and assembly to them? Water pump? - if cambelt driven on your engine. Wondered what you propose to do about that. Kind regards, Gareth.

If under warranty I'd leave it with the dealer to find the fault.

Not been doing too much too her fixed the exhaust on properly and been looking for the red interior, last night had a good touch got a full set normally 600.00 to 1200.00, I won this for 136.00 yea totally stole it

Hi probably the battery is on its way out, you said the lights go when driven therefore its getting more charge, sounds like a classic case of a failing battery thats not holding its charge. Steve.

Hi, I have a 2021 A4 Allroad and often put 2 mountain bikes in my car. Both are medium frame adult bikes, but have to remove front wheels. Cheers

First pictures of my 2014 S-Line A3 Convertible. I purchased the car back in September. I have had the Calipers coloured red and these pictures were taken when it was recently Ceramic coated. What an amazing finish. I am so pleased with it. Bring on the good weather.

Hi everyone fault has been repaired by Abz Audi ,costs covered by Ayr Audi .the problem was caused by faulty abs sensor wiring loom ,great result regards AR

@Steph1234 my dealership is Huntingdon Audi. I am awaiting a response from Ferzana from Audi Executive, she's written to apologise for the delay, no surprise they are inundated with complaints!

Hi they are always a pain as the water from the washer rots everything try a good soak in plusgas then use a deep socket, other than that its a new motor. Steve

Just to say that I bought a space saver 19" wheel from The Wheel Shop along. As Stevey noted above, I then stuck several sections of polystyrene using gaffer tape (pic 1) to support the wheel and keep it off the battery cables to the left and right. Enough space underneath the wheel to store the compressor and tyre repair bottle (pic 2) (just in case). This raised the spare wheel but there was still just enough thread available on the centre to allow me to use the normal large plastic nut to hold the spare in place (pic 3). Although the spare was a little higher than normal due to the polystyrene, there's still enough space to allow the top cover to sit flat in the boot. Lastly the tools including jack fit in the plastic tray (pic 4) between the battery and the back of the rear seats (blue towel round them to stop rattling).

Hi all, I came across an issue recently that appears common enough for people to post with requests for solutions but unusually where I failed to find a concrete fix. So here is my stab at this: The other week I went to do an oil check, pulled the bonnet release level and to my dismay felt no resistance and the bonnet remained firmly shut. Bugger – how to get the bonnet open? There is no access from the front – even destroying off the plastic grill will not get you to any bolts that will help. What is the solution without resorting to a can opener and consequentially a new bonnet?? Here it is… It will be much better to download the attached pdf as this has pics that will help a lot, but instructions with no pics are: 1. Go to B&Q (or equivalent hardware store) and purchase a 4-6mm diameter steel rod between 70 cm and a meter in length. Mine cost £2.60!!! 2. Get a decent vice and make two 90-degree bends at each end of the rod about 10 cm from end of rod by hand (I off-set each end by 90 degrees approx.), to make a ‘emergency bonnet release tool’. 3. Get the front of the car on ramps or jack up as high as possible. Remove undertray and get a good torch and get underneath…. 4. You need to locate the bonnet lock mechanism – it’s at the top of the radiator fans. It will be very hard to see… From below, at the right angle, you should be able to see the underside of the lock mechanism look for the large spring. 5. The reason you are unable to open the bonnet might be: 1, the cable has snapped; or 2, (as in my case) the end of the cable has come lose from the lock mechanism. The 2nd issue is common if you have had the front off and lock carrier into the service position and the cable-end has not been seated back in properly… 5. There are actually 2 sites for a cable to connect. If you have a RHD vehicle then the cable seats into the lower slot; if a LHD then upper slot. You need to get the end of your ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ into one of these two slots, and then twist using the lock housing to lever off and move the release mechanism. If you get into the lower slot the twist right; if you get into the top slot, then twist left. If you use a tube spanner or the end of a ring spanner to get on the other end of the rod where the other 90-degree bend is then you get more force and the bonnet should open! Brilliant. 6. I then decided to add a bit of thick plastic cut to size to cover the cable end housing to stop it coming out again. Drill a small hole and tap a screw into it but do not tighten yet. 7. Reinstall the lock, and reseat the cable end properly, then swing the plastic down over the cable end and tighten screw. Not sure if this will work/last, but at least you now have an ‘emergency bonnet release tool’ to sort it… Hope this is of some help…. Bonnet open solution.pdf

Oh Father in Law!

euro 6 were from end of the 2014 September I have 2015 euro 6 Audi A3 TDi 2.0 sportback quattro 184 bumped to 230 bhp manufactured in 2014 september.. Then the word ''fluid'' wouldn't be used in car terminology .. The engine oil burns because it is used in combustion cambers where the fire meets the oil that's why is always immediately black .. Nobody says normally engine fluid but oil.. In Audi or VW-AG will automatically say trans fluid or haldex fluid etc. The transmission fluid is closed chamber where combustion isn't present and if u saying u had experience with very bad trans fluid that means the user of the car or owner or whatever was ruthless and and abuser of the car.. Driving car in top high speeds in long period of the time and often overheating transmission. Well everyone teaches different depending of the person or teacher..

Fixed. Car was in and out within 2 hours! Happy that it's now locked down.

Done

Hello Wendy, Welcome, and sorry to hear of your issue. This just isn’t acceptable. Have you tried a search on here for ‘pre sense’? I’m sure there is a thread going on it. If it were mine, I would be threatening ( in writing) to reject the vehicle. Kind regards, Gareth.

As you wish, but I'd be concerned that the gear change links or the clutch release lever are loose.

No unfortunately a private purchase now not sure if it's coming from the gearbox or diff . thanks everyone for your help

Hi. Had a niggling problem with the right hand charge flap not wanting to close. When I did get it to closed and locked, it opened again when I unlocked the car. So a trip to the Main Dealer was needed. I was probably going to be told "you will have to book it in Sir, our next available time is July" .But, "hang on" the receptionist said I will get a techy to come out and have a look for you. Anyway 10 minutes later I am back on the road with a normally operating flap. The techy said the mechanism gets a bit sluggish sometimes. Probably a squirt of WD40 was used. I was so pleased with the service and in a state of euphoria I gave the techy a fiver. Tony

Arun. It’s a 1 man garage and he does my MOTs I just popped in on driving past and he had a delayed customer so quickly looked at mine and found it in 5mins!!

Bilbao or Santander I bet. If it's ordered new then your Audi dealer should be able to find out

I was thinking satin bronze but that would then be 3 very different colours (black/ silver mirrors, front lip/ wheels ) so went against it

Nice’ how much is it lowered and how does it ride on the new springs?

Hi Wayne I don't think its the relay it is most likely the motor, because they are a cr@p design and fail frequently over the 190k I had the car I went through three rear motors all with different symptoms of failure, constant running, parking of wiper arm in multiple positions, no wiper at all, this is due to water ingress in to the control box PCB, never changed the relay ever, but if you use reverse logic if it works why is the relay at fault, most common symptoms of relay failure are, intermittent function or no function at all. Steve.

I'd definitely recommend a second opinion on this. Alternatively contact Audi customer services

I had a garage do it as it’s not easy on a drive! But forum discussions at the time (if you do the job yourself) suggested blanking off the air pipe and running the pump to check for leaks (dont run it for more than 1 minute in ten) it’s just not designed for it and will likely burn the motor or compressor seals. if you can pressurise it another way to test, I’d do so.

those error messages are in fact a frequent thing and it comes down to the sensitivity of your settings (radar, collision assist etc). You can adjust your settings to pick up far less in the realms or items vs distance but not recommended. FYI the car records loss of vision or detection as faults and stay logged until removed. I recently had Audi assist come out for something else related I had 136 codes stored and following that CAM bus errors because of how many were stored. I was politely reminded that these issues have become a common issue causing modules to slow down or self fault due to bus memory being clogged with error codes. from time to time it’s recommended to review and clear. Ideally around service intervals. You’d think your main dealer would do this as part of their service but they don’t and leave them…

Hi its the sealing ring, most likely they did not change it with the unit problem being that you have to buy the seal separately and they are quite expensive, its either the seal or they have damaged the locking ring that holds the pump in when they re tightened it, the third hole looks like a breather, easiest way to check is get a small length of wire and push it into the hole and see if it bottoms out, if it does its the seal. Steve.

Thanks for the links Kev. Annoyingly last week I discovered from my mechanic that if I buy any 2.5tdi engine and keep my current injection pump and ECU the car will think the replacement engine is the original and will run. Wish I'd known that a year ago instead of worrying about coding of injection pumps and imobilisers etc. So my simplest option is to find a bau version of the 2.5tdi as this was the last variation of that engine and most refined in theory. Trying to find one with low miles and proven service history, but naturally this is proving difficult.

Hi Sorry it’s been a while since I logged in. They eventually found a very small oil leak from a seal on the drive shaft that was spitting oil onto the turbo. They had to remove the engine to fix it. ive since got rid of the A6 and am driving an A3 instead. I’m just pretty sure Audi make great smaller cars but the quality control in the big ones is just not good enough. declan

Turns out the Haynes book threw me a red herring on the ACE engine the mid shaft only runs the oil pump, therefore no need to have a timing point on the cog. I found this out after rotating it with my hot wire rig setup but nothing was happening and the wires to the coil from my golf were getting hot. I even took off the distributor cap and sure enough the arm was not moving. Even I found another string on the net that has a sketch of a hole by the bell housing that should show a timing mark, however that was not moving. Then I went back to Haynes and looked up distributor where I found, I quote “ACE and AAR engines, the distributor is located on the right hand of the engine and is driven off the rear of the camshaft. After finding out my cam belt was 2 teeth out, I put all back together again, indecently the distributor cap had a mount bolt loose, that would not help. I manually cranked the engine over, no issues. Started on the button idled fine up to 60 degrees where the engine started to search again, but not as bad as before. I just instinctively unplugged the isv and she purred like a cat at just over 1k and was rock solid, plugged isv back in and the searching came back, new one on order. I turned off the car, and waited 5 minutes but she would not fire up. Back to Haynes for inspiration and eventually I found a problem that I feel is the root cause,…. The connector on the loom to Part OEM 034919369C has been wired wrongly, not only that somebody tried to correct the fault by forcing the two parts upside down and the new connector is also broken. I have found a you tube person who prints new ones as the connector is no longer available. 3-pin connector 893971974. Has anyone got a wiring diagram for the correct wires to locations they could show to me so I can get this faux pas sorted out. I feel close to getting this car running the way she should again, what an interesting day I have had.

A(nonymous). Given that this thread is over seven years old it is unlikely you will get a response from the originator. Nevertheless there are some useful suggestions in it. Have you tried any of them?

Did you find out how to remove the center console in the end?

Hi could be the delete and remap are causing the problem all airflow and exhaust flows are monitored against each other if the exhaust gas is escaping to fast the the o2 sensor can't read it properly, thinking behind this is all DPF deletes involve physical removal of some or all of the DPF core. Steve.

Glad you got sorted 🙂 If it's any consolation I get my wife to take her jaguar to have her xe adblue topped up, as jags are known for adblue system issues. This has saved us twice when the system has gone faulty and they've had to drain the tank, reset the sensor and top it back up FOC twice. My rationale is, if they do it then we can't be blamed for it being over filled or wrong adblue fluid added etc.

Hi Magnet, Thanks for commenting. I had to drive my car today 70 miles the noise was not apparent ongoing but just when turning on the engine and going slower. I know the belt is tighter because pre garage visit- I took off the casing to see the cam belt - I wiggled it and it was more loose. On hearing the change in sound - rechecked under the casing and the cam belt is definitely tighter. I asked the garage after changing the bolts if my cam belt was OK and they did not say they had done anything to it. The independent garage specialise in audi and use genuine parts. They seem to have a good rep. The water pump is on the opposite side on my 1.4 petrol engine I am told. I am thinking of going back tomorrow to ask them about it. (Noise).

Hi lot of common sense on that statement, that’s what I was planning to do myself ,Audi dealership what a letdown 1 st time buying from them my 1 Audi was back in 80 s Audi 80 cd thanks for thoughts regards AR

Getting my lock system replaced at the local Audi garage on my A6 2021 .. had the same problem

Hi Steve, I personally would not go anywhere near that one it looks like cheap trouble until you get the bill for the rebuild, go for a later engine thats got some history and runs, not some vague statement that it did and then spent an indeterminate time in storage, no milage, I think he wants to go to the pub on someones £80, I have made the same mistake in the past especially when driven by desperation, take your time send your cash wisely and make sure what goes in at least works. Steve

Oil level sensor Paul?

Hello Jay, The definitive answer lies in the build record, and you should be able to obtain this from Audi Cust. services, or possibly through a dealer - both through the VIN. Possible theory:- delayed release due to the chip crisis?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Loving those wheels 👍

New to the forum and need some advice. I’ve owned a 2022 A3 Saloon for around 1.5 years and have , since owning it, had an annoying sound when braking. the sound is a light grinding sound, almost like a scrape (without the squeal of dying brake pads) which appears when braking at low speeds (5-0mph). The sound isn’t too bad when the car is cold, but once driven for more than 10 mins it appears and gets worse in stop start traffic. i raised this with the Audi dealer when I picked it up and they said it was normal. I’ve since driven other A3’s of the same year and different Audis and none have this issue. I mentioned this again at its first service. Dealer advised that the front brake pads have 40% left and therefore should be changed and is likely the cause of the issue. I hesitated as the sound is very clearly only coming from the rear of the car. We changed the brake pads ( to the sum of £300!) and the issue went away for about 30 miles then reappeared . (I assume they oiled the back brakes maybe?) The car is in for its second service and I have requested that they look at this issue again. They have, and say that their technicians can’t notice anything but then said that they are aware that the auto gearboxes can create this noise. Im going tomorrow to take a technician out for a ride along to show them the issue, however I can’t understand how the sound, which only appears when breaking and is pinpointed to the rear brakes (even had someone stand outside the car who could hear it from the rear wheels). does anyone have any ideas? I’m not happy with taking the car away again with this persistent issue, or them saying it’s one thing, paying for a fix and then it still persisting. thanks!

Well well well After spending a small fortune this last 18 months on my B8 I stumbled on a stunning A4, B9 Avant 2017 in twilight grey at a price I just couldn’t miss - pic below…. PS A4 B8 in cuvee silver now looking for a new home

Thank you so much. Will look into them. Sorry to hear you've been ill. Hope you're recovering now? I'd suspended work on the A6 in the short term whilst I've been doing the house up and getting prepped for our new (first) arrival.

Sorry Newbie here just searching around and saw this post. I would have to advise you do an internet search on A6 Multitronic Gearboxes and the required oil change exactly at 40k. Its a must read i'm afraid. Apparently if its a Quattro or Tiptronic auto it is sealed for life and very few problems upto 120k reported from those in the know IE Audi techs on the front line, so to speak Spent hours reading all sorts of stuff about this last night in research for buying a new Audi.