Leaderboard

Update and a question: All parts ordered!! Discs and pads all round, both offside calipers, both lower front arms and upper rear outer bushes, coolant temperature sensor, bonnet release handle and pair of wiper arms with normal fitments on the end! (One was missing it clip assembly and I can't believe how little option there was for the old ones) Had a few days off so I thought I'd be as well stripping bits down so when the new ones arrive I can fit them straight on. Nope. The rear O/S came apart fine, discs and pads out (the state of them!) caliper released and hanging in the wheel well awaiting its swap, hub dropped from the upper track arm. Easy. The front however..... caliper came off easy enough, pads out, shock disconnected, sway bar disconnected, chassis end bolt undone but not removed, hub ball joint disconnnected but not removed, fine and dandy. Much to my dismay, I found out the caliper carrier needs to come off the get the disc out. Can i shift it? Not a chance on axle stands laying on my back. Fine, I'll put it all back together with all the old bits and get it to a garage once all the new ones are here, have a shot of a lift for a crate of beer etc. Cup of tea, go to put it all back together and..... Damper slips away from the bush down the arm, where it's been resting, perfectly aligned, for the last day or so. 4 hours, 2 ratchet straps, a podger, some profanity and a crowbar later it's all back together. Next up, wait for all the parts to arrive then head for a garage and see if they accept liquid currency. If there's anyone near Beauly that fancies dropping in and lending any experience and a hand in exchange for beer give me a shout! My question, simple as it may be, is it normal for the disc to be held in place on these with just the wheel and lugs? On past cars there's always been a pair of small, countersunk bolts to secure it to the hub, then the lugs go through the disc to secure the wheel, the discs that are on it have the holes for a pair of securing bolts but there aren't any holes in the hub that line up. Just curious. Shealesy

I couldn't agree more with what has already been said, but even if the car is used for short journeys, a serviceable battery should well accommodate that. The way to look at it is :- would Audi have sold these cars as new, if on infrequent use/ short journeys, they were not going to start? Basics and elimination it is:- simply get (the overnight charged) battery checked, by a reliable garage - preferably one not making volume sales on batteries. Avoid the large outlet type stores. If it proves to be unserviceable then replace it, but I would follow Trevor's advice on this and soend once and wisely. I would not buy any battery with less than a 3 year warranty and ideally (and generally no more expensive if you shop around) a 4 or 5 year warranty one. Premium brands such as Varta or Bosch would be my choice since I know, by shopping around, that I can get these for very little on cost. I have used Battery Warehouse ( I think that's the name) at Tewkesbury. Goid prices, mail order and service .No connection, and no doubt others have equally good recommendations. If the battery is serviceable then as has been said, you have a parasitic drain on the battery, and would need an appropriate meter connected in line with the battery while each fuse is removed until you find the offending curcuit. Probably best left to a half an hour's time with an auto electrician. Goid luck with it, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Brian, As Trevor says, these CD changers can be removed and the cover taken off and with minor surgery, the stuck CD can be retrieved. This should always be undertaken on the basis of nothing to lose if you fail! Always worth trying the eject button on the changer before disconnecting. My exoerience with these, through non-Audi makes anyway, is that few do not give problems at some time or other, and the problem is generally that of stuck CD. Not absolutely sure on this but I do believe the problem is compounded if use use copied CD's rather than originals. Again, these CD changers can be subjected to infrequent use which doesn't help. This will be coupled with the fact that they are very often located in damp boots or under dusty seats! I have found they are generally available secondhand at reasonable prices (if you fail to sort yours), or I think the popular alternative is to substitute this now outdated system by linking in an IPod. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards Gareth.

Not an easy fix for someone like myself then but ill definetly pass the information onto the mechanic i use thanks alot for your help 🖒

Yes same for both lamps. Will take them out for a better look while turning the adjuster A good suggestion regarding some sort of packaging , maybe a couple of washers on the top screw. Thanks for your input much appreciated .

Hi folks,Please accept my apologies if this is against forum etiquette or posted in the wrong place; I thought I'd found the most appropriate forum for this, but if not, please tell me to move it elsewhere!My name's Alex, I'm the Used Car Editor for Autocar magazine, and I'm trying to find a C5 Allroad, to take part in a multi-car used car feature in the magazine. Ideally, we're looking for a standard or near-standard car in reasonably good condition that we can use for photography (and talk to you about for an 'I bought one' bit in the feature). We'd need you and your car for a day on Friday 18 November, for photography at our photo studio in Feltham. I appreciate that's a little short notice, but if you can make it, you'd be helping me out vastly! You get the benefit of having your car immortalised in an issue of Britain's oldest existing car magazine, plus we'll brim your fuel tank for you and provide lunch on the day.If you've such a car, you're available on that day and you're up for coming down to help us out, please drop me a line at alex.robbins [at] haymarket.com. Once again, apologies if this post breaches any forum rules, but as you can tell from the date involved, I'm rather pressed for time!Thanks in advance for your help!

Hi Gareth, Thanks again for the input, doing a bit of searching it looks like one A3 owner who underwent a service appears now to be using 0w30; Forgive me for quoting another forum: Source: http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/ultimate-final-8p-oil-thread.221763/ ' ...last year audi used Shell 5w30 on mine, this year they have switched to Shell professional 0w30 they told me that is the new high performance engine oil they use...just a little info... '

Hi Chris, I upgraded to an A7 this week and absolutely love it. Mines only an SE but (245bhp) fully loaded with extras.

How long are you driving it for before switching off the engine? I have this problem with my A6, I think because I only do short journeys during the week. The AA told me it takes 20 minutes of driving to give the battery enough charge just to start the engine. My journey to work is 15 minutes, but even if I drive it for an hour or more at weekends and then park it up for the night, just keeping the immobiliser going drains it again. My jump starter is worth its weight in gold, but it is irritating not being able to start the car without it. All the electronics are nice to have but the battery is the size of a small suitcase and the car is craving a motorway run every day! I considered changing to a 2.0, but if you're having the same problems that's not going to be the answer. If you have found the problem let me know.

Matt, I would say try and get it scanned using vagcom before you do anything else as this is the only way to know for sure. Strangely, I have heard reports of the ABS light being caused by a faulty brake light switch....