Leaderboard

Had them done in a Gunmetal, but toned down with silver adding a pearl.

Hi Alan....welcome to the Forum

The Intern - And not quite the Big Screen but using poetic license,

This trip sounds awesome Chris! Nice to see your keeping the Audi 90 and getting it back on n the road! :) if your like me you can get sentimental with cars. The only downside is that it gets very expensive! Feel free to share some pics of your 90, I'm sure members would love to see it! Also Once you have got it back on the road, feel free to come and attend events with us! Would be great to have your 90 on our club stand! :) cheers steve

Have to say the rear twin outlets look awesome!! What horses did the remap take it to? rainsport 3's are my tyre of choice too. You will be surprised how good they are on dry tarmac too. brakes wise, you already have vented discs as standard. Do you mean you are thinking getting drilled a grooved ones? These will help keep temps down a bit for track racing plus try green/red/black stuff pads. I would also seriously consider flushing the brake system out and replacing with silicon based fluid. I am sure from memory it has a higher boiling point but also lasts much longer than standard DOT 4. If you are really serious about track days, a bit of ducting aiming air at discs will make an enormous difference too. are you still running the standard IC?

Hi, many thanks for adding me to the Group. I am a proud owner of a 2.4 Audi A4 convertible 2003 in metallic light blue with blue roofI

And here's some other Audi related ones! :)

Hi Steve, i don't have any experience of Celtic tuning but what I can say about tuning companies that remap cars is that they will first drive your car to see how it performs and feels and will tailor the map to your car accordingly. They may also put it on a rolling road. Therefore keeping it within tolerances. They do this as an sq5 that's done 1000 miles will perform slightly differently to one that's covered 70,000. Hence why they tweak the map accordingly. hope iv helped :) cheers steve

Welcome to the forum Nick :) youll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch :) i have to say it does look good on paper. Good miles, good spec and full Audi history. This is good as you can ring Audi to check to see what it has had done :) oh and having the fuel mass flywheel isn't cheap I can assure you! As with anything you'll only know what it's like when you drive it. If you do go and view and drive it, ask the seller if he would be happy for you to have an AA or RAC inspection to be carried out. If he is reluctant or refuses then you have to wonder what he has to hide! I would suspect the cambelt has been changed by now due to age rather than mileage but it's worth checking to see if Audi have this on their system. Also when driving check to make sure the gears change smoothly. But obviously he has already changed one of the expensive parts-the fuel mass flywheel. But make sure you see proof of this. Also make sure all electronic items work as they should as some of them can be costly to replace or repair. For what it's worth it does look in good condition but obviously don't always take it on face value. Hope iv helped and hope iv not told you how to suck eggs! Cheers steve :)

Hello Nigel, In the olden days! These instruments would have been fed by a voltage stabiliser which pulsed a voltage to them to prevent the fuel gauge reading in particular, jumping around when the car cornered or went over a bump and the fuel level sloshed around. These could prove to be problematic and give the type of issue you have. I would guess there is probably a built in modern bit of curcuit technology which now does the same thing, and yes, it might be in the actual instrument panel - but maybe not. If it were mine, I think I would be popping this around to a local trusted independent for a bit of advice. I'm sure they would have come across this sort of thing before. Taking instrument panels out is not really where you might want to be unless you have to. Good luck with getting it sorted. Kind regards, Gareth.

Here's one :)

Welcome to the forum Nigel :) nice to see someone else who lives out my way :) sorry to hear your having issues and have to agree with Trevor, I'd say it's the dials. Cheers steve

Hi Steve Well the car is finally fixed. Its probably the worst job I have had to do on any car ever. 99% my fault. Let me tell you the full story: I actually started out with a clonking noise from the front end - two years ago now. I bought 2 new lower arms but one turned up with no bushings. My local mechanic fitted one but left the other one awaiting parts. The worst of the clonking went away. The supplier of the arms refused to send the bushings or replace the whole part saying I had "lost them". BS. The car then got passed over to my girlfriend as she needed a daily driver. After a year she reported a knocking noise - different this time, more a "clack clack clack" over bumps.. Over time under harsh acceleration the car seemed to change direction slightly. We ignored it for a while and in the end it got so annoying and the unwieldy handling so pronounced that I went on a forum (not this one I would add) and self diagnosed this as being anti-roll bar bushings where the ARB connects to the subframe - typical looking bushings with metal cappings over them, two bolts and nuts each side. Easy job ...... Firstly this is not an anti-roll bar in the way anyone would understand one! I am used to working on BMW's where an anti-roll bar is just that: a bar running from one wheel to the other with some kind of drop-links to the strut. In other words if you removed it the car would still drive along but would not be stable in bends. On this car this is a whole lot more than that as I learned at my peril. The bushings for the "ARB" look pretty normal so I set about replacing them. So my easy job meant jacking up the car. Supporting the subframe. Lowering the subframe front on a jack to access the top bolts on the bushing casings. Undo nuts, remove casings, swap bearings and et voila job done right? WRONG .... SO WRONG. Actually its really as easy as that if you know what I now know. All you need to do is one side at a time. Unfortunately I was in high efficiency mode so I removed both sides. Removed old bushings - which looked fine (see later), fitted new bushings, fitted casings/caps jacked up "ARB" to refit nuts to bolts ........ suddenly nothing lined up at all. At this point I should have asked for advice: I didn't. I then got into my head that the easiest way to do this must be to undo the end links to the "ARB" where it joins the lower control arms. Undo those. Push the "ARB" into the correct position for the bushings. Do those up. Tighten end links again and et voila job done right!? For the second time WRONG .. VERY WRONG. I undid the end links - this is basically a nut, large dished washer and then two half bushings with another dished washer on the other side. Undid these both sides and the whole "ARB" splayed out into the circular holes on the lower control arms both sides. Completely wedged in. So now I am no further ahead than before except now my "ARB" end links are no longer central to the lower control arms and are wedged into the outer edges of the circular hole. I broke out a large hammer. No matter how hard I hit the ends they would not pop out. At this point I realised this is not an ARB and this is, despite initial indications, not a normal suspension set up. The whole arrangement is under immense tension. Realising that I got a small ratchet strap and pulled on one side of the bar using the edge of the subframe to pull it. Out it came. Once free the other side came out too. So now I have my "ARB" out. Of course with no tension on it, it would not even line up with the holes on the lower control arms at all. At this point I came to the conclusion to fit everything back together meant using multiple ratchet straps and several jacks. Unfortunately I discovered (thankfully before I tried to refit it) that hammering on the threaded end of the ARB had mushroomed it and damaged the threads beyond repair. Hence my original post asking where I could buy a new one. Probably because most owners never hammer on the end of theirs and damage the threads there isn't a big market for them!!! Anyway eventually as you know sourced the part. 4 weeks to arrive. Meanwhile the only silver lining to the story is that the noise turned out to be lower control arms to ARB end link bushings, worn to the metal. So had I been successful in the first place the problem would have remained as I was changing the wrong part. Then came the real "scrap it moment". I needed to move the car out of my garage as it was blocking my other cars in. So I reversed it out and suddenly no drive and a grinding noise. My god I thought, I need to just set this thing on fire. By this stage the car is half in the driveway and half in the street with no drive. I had to jack it up on the front end of the subframe and push it back in with a 4x4. The "ARB" not being an "ARB" actually holds the struts in place so without it I had pulled the drive shaft out from the tri-pot. Bearings had fallen off the trunions and being an open diff that meant no drive. So I had to remove the drive shaft - big bolt on hub end, 6 splined bolts on gearbox end. Dismantled inner end, refitted bearings to trunions, regrease, boot back on, drive shaft refitted. Phew getting somewhere closer to where I started now. Top tip here, contrary to what some people say you can get the drive shaft out (long one) without removing exhaust. Undo steering arm, pull hub right round lying on your back using your feet and have a kind friend push it out of the splined hub bearing up into the bowels of the engine bay and out it comes. Refitting the reverse of removal. Oh and there is a protective cover as well on the inner end. Expect some skinned knuckles. So next is refit "ARB". Tried compress it with ratchet straps - forget it. Can nearly get it in but the straps impeded refitting. Get one end in, new bushings obviously, central and do it up. Then use ratchet strap to pull other end over and into lower control arm hole, ratcheting one notch at a time to get it central and then refit nut and tighten. So at this point I am right back where I started. Using three straps and a notch at a time with subframe lowered on a jack and another jack to push up "ARB" I manoeuvred it into position got one side done up, other side was then also lined up SO in summary changing the "ARB" bushings is easy. Just do one at a time. Had I done that I would have avoided everything that followed. Of course if I had done that I would not have solved the problem which was worn end link bushings - resulting from me not changing that arm 2 years ago. On the plus side I know the car a lot better, I didn't scrap it (many of my friends told me to) and ......... 4 weeks after starting the job ....... its fixed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Happy days. I attach a picture as requested. As you can see its not a special looking car but I have had it years and love it so I had to fix it!!!