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Just seen this on one of the fb audi clubs... 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

Thanks for the further information Thomas. As Steve Q often says- "they are a friendly bunch on here" and I too would like to think we are, but it's sometimes difficult to clarify things without coming over as being critical of what the poster is trying to do. I have a feeling this may be one such case, and I must apologise in advance if any if this isn't in line with your thinking, but here goes Thomas. Appreciating changing components such as coil packs, leads, etc can be considered good maintenance, it should be pointed out that the quality of such replacement parts is often very questionable, and runs the risk of introducing faults which were not there before. Depends on where you source your bits from, but experience shows its better not to fix it if it's not sure it's broken - unless you are replacing with genuine VAG components which of course you might have done, and that would be fine and only likely to affect your wallet. Your question - "Short to ground problem likely to be a broken wire...?" This and changing harnesses concerns, since it must be clear in the mind that a "short" is where a current feed wire's insulation etc. is damaged, and the wire then touches the earth-return bodywork - at which point the fuse in that curcuit should blow. Any wire which is broken would be an open curcuit not a short curcuit. If you have any intermittent issues in a curcuit where the fuse hasn't blown, it means you have an irregular supply or poor earth, and things like connector plugs etc come to mind -or of course the consistency of the supply is fine but the component is faulty. So back to your issues:- as I see it you have to establish why No.4 plug is oiling up - is it oil or unburnt/partially burnt fuel? . If it were mine, I would now be doing a basic compression test on this engine to establish if it's mechanically sound before chasing electronic problems. If it is good in that respect (and your replaced coil packs and leads are proved to be good) then it's possible - just possible- that the injector may be an issue. All of this is ifs, buts and maybes, and this is why I suggested you get this checked out at a good independent who can check things like O2sensors etc. etc. (even MOT emissions test would help). OK Thomas I well appreciate you want to sort this out yourself , but it could be a costly route, and as I said may even introduce issues you didn't have before! Buying expertise via. specialist equipment can provide you with useful knowledge and experience - don't dismiss it. "Won't rev over 5000rpm" . Can we take it this is at standstill rather than during driving? Hope all of this is taken in the spirit it is intended. Good luck in getting it sorted, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Thomas, Sory to hear of your problem, and it would seem you gave been spending some funds on replacing components without finding the route cause. It concerns that you are now considering replacing the wiring harness, which is both an insurmountable operation and an uneconomic proposition on a 14 year old car. Appreciating you seem to be capable of continuing to try to sort this, bit I think it may now be far cheaper for you to put this in the hands of a trusted local independent. Kind regards, Gareth.

I'll start: Good 1. my road trip to Belgium and France last year. As seen here: 2. Attending all the shows last year and looking forward to.the ones this year! :) Bad My car accident last September that nearly killed my a6. It kill the 2014 Volvo xc60 that ran into the back of me! Cheers Steve

Hi Guys Sorted (I think) I hope the information below will help others. original fault was that my Audi A7 2011 started changing gears itself, changing from Drive to Sports mode with no demand from myself, quite dangerous. On the dash I had the message "Gearbox Fault you can continue driving" Called out the AA, who plugged in the computer and could see 2 gearbox faults but could not identify what they were, advised me to take to a garage. Took it to the local Audi main dealer who eventually found fluid in the main electrical connector on the gearbox ECU and was charged £60 for the diagnosis. Quoted just over £3k to replace the gearbox ECU and wiring harness. At this point I decided to look into it myself. Took it to a friends garage and up on the ramp. removed the gearbox connector and yes there was the fluid inside the connector. Here's a picture from the web, but looks identical The fluid was obviously coolant from the colour and sweet taste (don't recommend tasting though..) So far so good, but how did it get there??? Answer - From the Coolant control valve which is about 12" away and along the same loom.( My issue was from the coolant control valve, but it could have been another valve or sensor) It is apparently a common fault with Audi's and an issue known to Audi- There is a Technical service bulletin out on this TSB# 2033806/7 The TSB is well worth a read. Without getting too techie, The coolant control valve starts leaking fluid through the electrical connection point, this fluid then travels down through the harness through a process called "capillary effect" or "Wicking" and eventually gets to the gearbox electrical connector and causes mayhem to the CAN signals which control the gear selection process. In my case, we used an airline to blow the coolant out of the gearbox connector (carefully on the gearbox end) then sprayed the connector with electrical contactor spray and reconnected the connector. On testing the car, the error message has gone and no more random gear changing. VCDS does not show any errors now. I have a new Coolant control valve being fitted tomorrow ( £130 from Audi or £30 from ebay) If the new valve is not fitted, the problem will just come back in the future. Here's the kicker, had I gone with the Audi main dealer quote, a new harness and gearbox ECU for £3k, the quote did not include a new coolant control valve, therefore I would have been £3k poorer and would have received a "temporary fix" as the valve would have continued to leak and eventually find it's way to the gearbox ECU connector again. In the end it cost around £250 to get sorted. Sorry for the long write up, I hope it helps others.