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I have read a lot of posts recently about water in the footwells etc... so i looked on my a6 c6 drains under the windscreen. Shocking😱😱😱 !!! Check yours to aviod water damage ! Drain is located under the 2 cilinders Cleaned like new ::)

I have just retro-fitted LED puddle projector lights to the front doors of my A4 B7 – while there are a few things out there already, I thought to add this guide in case it helps anyone wanting to do this. This is probably the other thing to look at as well: https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/retro-fit-warning-puddle-lights-a4-b7-salon-how-to.138473/ *Disclaimer* - undertake all modifications at your own risk – I am not a qualified mechanic or electrician. Once you have figured out which pin to connect these to, I class this as an easy mod that I think looks cool. You can also install a light in the red reflector on the side of the door, and lights in the back doors, but I didn’t bother. This worked for my Audi A4 B7 (2007) S-line Avant. The wiring diagrams I used covered all B6 and B7 so I predict this will work for all of them - I attach these pics as well. Items needed LED projectors Spade connectors for plugging into the puddle light 2x new wired pins to fit a 32 pin connector (4E0972977) Electrical connectors and tape Door card clips Automotive wire suitable for internal lighting Steps 1. purchase the correct puddle/entry projector lights of your choice – ebay has loads. I went for cheap non-genuine ones that have an S-line logo. 2. Check to see if you already have puddle lights installed! If you do just swap them over. Job done. (if the new ones do not work, try reversing the plug). If not, proceed to 3. 3. Next, you need to check the new lights works and see which terminal is the live one – LEDs are polarised – you need to connect the positive to the right terminal for it to work. You will need to get some spade connectors (good old ebay) to plug the lights into: I have an old low juice car battery and so once connected (the cheap ones I had needed the pins bending a little to get the plug in) just (with a pair of gloves for insulation) touch the ends of the wires to the battery terminals – if nothing lights up swap over. This will allow you to determine which is the live side. Make a note of this. 4. Next you need to remove the door cards. See this: https://totaltechnik.com/video-details.php?vid=19. You will break some clips; use ebay to get a bunch of spares. I bought a pack of 20 for £3.50 5. The bottom of the door has a template for the puddle light hole – cut this out. I used a 5mm drill and drilled lots of holes around the outside and then a blade to cut through these and a file to even up. Don’t cut the hole too large as the light just clips into place. 6. Next you need to wire up the puddle light. Here is the wiring diagram for the driver’s side door for a car with puddle entry lights (also attached with better res) If you scrutinise this, you can see that W31 is the one we want to focus on – this is the puddle/entry light. W30 is the red one on the side of the door. The live side is wired to T32c/13 – this is PIN 13 of the 32 pin connector. The same is true for the passenger side – entry lights go to PIN13. This is the grey connector you just unplugged to remove the door card. You need to open this up: cut the cable tie and slide out the pink tab at the end, then the connector can be slid out of the housing. You should see the pin numbers on the white connector 1 and 16 on one side and 17 and 32 on the other. Go to PIN 13 – there should be no terminal in there: you need to put one in. I bought a pre-wired 32 pin connector off ebay (pic) and removed some of these to use – push a fine point down on the raised metal tab on the pin and gently pull the wire – individual connectors should slide out easily. Insert this into PIN 13 on the door card connector: driver’s side (has many more wires due to having many more switches) And passenger side: In both cases the green wire/pin is the new one inserted. You now need to wire up the live side of the LED to the wire you have just added to PIN 13 in the connector. You can solder but I just used simple wire connectors and (see the white thing on the right in the first picture) automotive wire – but any copper core wire the same thickness as the ones already in the door will do. You next need to connect the other wire from the light to an earth. The brown wires – any brown wire – in this door all go to earth and it does not matter which one you spice into. I chose the one that was most accessible – the window regulator on the passenger’s side and the mirror switch on the driver’s: Cut wire and route and tape up as you see fit – I chose to follow the route of the existing wires. Also remember that if you want to change the lights at any point you will need enough slack to get the light out and unplug it. Here the finished driver’s side: 7. Remove and replace any broken door card clips and reconnect the door card (remember to connect the plug from the speaker that goes to the door tweeter and the cable for the door release). 8. Test and enjoy. Hope this might be of some help... driver's wiring diag.pdf passenger door wiring diag.pdf

Mustapha. Before deciding on turbo repair be aware that a cambelt will add about £700 to the bill, and with 194000 miles on the clock there may be other surprises in store. I suggest you get the car assessed professionally before committing to any repairs.

Hi Gareth. Thanks for your reply. I tend to agree regarding the warranty, I think coil springs are often blamed on the road surface. It's been frustrating because Audi wouldn't give me any answer without seeing the car. I have since got another quote from a local garage which was well over £300, so on that basis £200 including recovery seems reasonable. Cheers, Shaun

OK, so the pics that were in the post did not appear once posted! I attach the word doc that I copied from - hope this make sense to you... Puddle light retrofit.docx

Some possibilities that occur to me: [1] The bushes etc. are the wrong ones or have been wrongly fitted. [2] Other parts of the rear suspension are out of alignment or worn. [3] The wheel bearings are worn. (I would expect this to be detected by the mechanics, but it's worth mentioning.) [4] The car has been in a crash and twisted out of shape. Do all the doors latch easily, accurately, and reliably?

Linda. Please tell some more about the noise. [1] Does it happen when turning the steering wheel while the car is stationary, or only when in motion? [2] Does it happen when turning to one particular side or another? [3] Does it get worse when braking? [4] Can you feel any vibration at the steering wheel when the noise occurs?