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Fair enough, it must be something else. The advice from your garage is utter nonsense. Soot can not be created or deposited in a non running engine.

No worries but if you are convinced you should be doing this I would scout a few of the other companies to find out who is offering the cheapest fee rate, sorry I don't try to order an individual to change their views as whatever they decide its their prerogative and their right to choose. 🙂 Steve.

Hi thats a good price and well within the ballpark, the reason for that is the aftermarket kits are a lot cheaper and they don't get any better than Gates, the other reason is that from 2014 on they redesigned it all so that worse case scenario is that you have to remove the fan pack to gain extra access, no more removing the front bumper and headlights etc. I have no doubt this came about because of complaints from the dealer technicians so if you make it more simple and still charge the same eye watering hourly labour rates. Steve.

Hi, sorry am I missing the point here, how the hell would the turbine vanes soot up if the car has been idle for months its not like a chain smoker that was sitting in an armchair all through the lockdown. I think it has more to do with either the MAP/Boost sensor on the intake manifold side or the Oxygen sensor on the exhaust, in view of the age of the car the MAP sensor would be the first port of call as these for a car of your age are relatively cheap, sensors should be changed about every four years regardless of milage as age is the main factor with failure, most sensors are high heat resistant plastic and especially the MAP which has a plastic pressure membrane inside it but even this will degrade over time when it is dealing with hot air and gas and sends an implausible signal to the engine management system which will throw up a light and put it into limp mode. have never been a fan of aggressive fuel system cleaners as invariably they will loosen dirt in the system which then heads for the injectors, not good, if you use a spray down the air intake cleaner to clean your turbine this heats the fuel up and as it comes into the engine via induction and goes no where near the internals of the injectors and cleans the intended part and nothing else. Steve.

Hello Steve, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. We will need a good bit more information in order to give you meaningful advice:- Front of the car shuddering? Can you feel this shuddering through the driver seat? Is the shuddering speed associated or engine rev. associated. - i.e. does it shudder at a lower speed in a lower gear. Does the shuddering alter if you brake? If this were mine, my first port of call would be to get all tyres (and wheels) thoroughly inspected by you local tyre retailers, and if found to be serviceable, to get them all rebalanced - on the basic logic of simple things first. Personally, I would not be using this car until this check has been carried out. As a matter of interest, are the tyres of matching makes and tread wear on each axle? Make of tyres? Perhaps you could let us have some answers. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Gents, finally got round to changing the headlight bulbs on my A6 as I wanted a mild upgrade the original bulbs are five years old and getting a bit dim so I bought some aftermarket 5500k bulbs to replace the 4300 O.E. units, the Phillips units from Audi are super expensive as are they anywhere else so I opted for bulbs from a company called Limastar they work really well and give a much better light output and for £139.00 a pair with a two year warranty are also good value. I wasn't looking forward to the change as the videos I watched looked fiddly regarding removing the headlight access covers as there is a strong possibility of dropping the screws down the wheel arch liner but the good news is they must have gotten fed up with it as well so they have redesigned it, the liner access fixing is a bit naff as they are brittle with age and snap, you can fix this as I did by using a plunge inner plastic trim clip through the aligning holes on the panel and arch liner. Once in the rear headlamp cover is a simple twist off affair which exposes the bulb, the bulb is removed by twisting the entire unit to the ten to twelve position and gently pulling the bulb out, there is plenty of slack wire for you to unclip the connector, the other good news is the reflector assembly is made of alloy which removes the factor of the chrome burning off, a problem they had with the old glass type reflectors, the good thing is that there is no plastic locking collar to be attached to the bulb before mounting they are just direct fit, all good no ballast units to worry about as the ballast is built into the bulb this must have saved a fortune in production costs for this set up does not require headlight washers or levelling units at the front of the car. Steve.