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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/29/2021 in all areas

  1. Hi Gareth, when I asked the guy the first time the clutch started slipping what brand of clutch they had used he replied that they are their own brand of remanufactured clutches, then explained that the clutch assemblies were stripped cleaned and any parts that were badly worn were replaced and new friction material was put on the driven plate, sorry but any metal component that has springs and bearing surfaces and been living in a world of five hundred degrees for 70k is not really usable due to metallurgical deformation. Went into the world of remanufacturing and it makes for depressing reading, the wear checks are if it looks ok it will go again, rebuilt is a better world marginally as if done by the manufacturer of the original item as this involves a lot of new parts so the item technically will perform as new, an example that springs to mind is a friend of mine back in the eighties had a 3.0 S Capri which had knocked out the big ends, A genuine Ford recon engine was about a grand so he opted for a remanufactured unit from a place in London at £500 we went and collected it in his dads old Vauxhall Viva van, we then spent a weekend fitting it and it wouldn't idle smoothly, we looked at the invoice which mentioned reground crank new shells etc as well as completely remanufactured heads, all good, a week later we got a carb overhaul kit and still no joy, we both stood there in a fit of despair, my mate was talking about setting light to it and claiming off the insurance, I decided to have the rocker covers off and run it to see if there was anything obvious like a bent push rod and there was the answer, as it was a V6 it had two cylinder heads and on one of the castings it had HC hi compression the other had LC low compression, they had fitted the first heads that came to hand. Steve.
    1 point
  2. Hello Philip, My stab at it is not going to be good news I’m afraid, but it’s sounds as if the dual mass flywheel is beginning to grizzle and will require replacement. If so, then this becomes a big job, including dismantling the 3 part clutch assembly ( which it would be daft not to renew at the same time). Mr. Clutch? I can’t offer any experience of their - franchise? outlets. One principle which has stood me in stead is to only use quality parts for such important applications, and obviously using cheaper parts (still with a so called 1 year warranty) can result in it being necessary to have to get the job done again much sooner than you would expect. OK, you may insist that only quality parts - such as LUK - are used, but in reality, you won’t have any knowledge of what make of parts they actually do use. Of course, they will tell you they only use OEM parts - a much used statement! Worth getting a quote from your trusted local garage using quality parts which you can supply, having bought them at discount? Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Philip. Kind regards, Gareth.
    1 point
  3. You could always get a garage to do a forced regeneration. Alternatively you could remove the dpf to clean it and refit it to see if that fixes it. Or buy a new one. Or take it on a really.good run to see if it clears the light.
    1 point
  4. I doubt the wiring a d heat pads are in the seats to be honest.
    1 point
  5. Well they did an audit of usage yes. They said 10+ miles or 30 mins a day but for me that is BS. I have had the car 506 days and done over 7000 miles in that time. So over time I pass that unwritten rule. Is 20 miles or 60 mins on the second day acceptable? It can get really silly really quickly. I appreciate long runs are needed from time to time. My wifes I10 is older and on same battery and has done far less mileage than me. Granted the car is wayyyyy different but still. Even the sales manager bulked at a) the cost and b) the frequency! He couldn't do anything for me though. Going to Audi UK but don't expect much from them. Maybe a snogogramme on social media would get a better response.
    1 point
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