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Hi all Well had my Audi A3 edition 1 1.5 dsg for two and a half months now and I’m well chuffed, fuel is getting better and better each week, about 36 - 38 mpg around town, only 1300 miles on the clock at the moment, so expecting it to get a little better, but with the cold winter days & nights coming maybe won’t show in extra miles per gallon. Oil use about 1 line on the dip stick so vey little. The matrix headlights with auto high beam Very Impressive day light all round but with out blinding on coming vehicles. Glad I went for the advanced key option very convenient, except when I’m cleaning the car with the key in my pocket and grabbing the door handles to lean down or pull myself up ( getting old ) the doors keep locking and unlocking with the door mirrors folding in and out, just leave the keys in the garage. More comfortable than expected, I had a vw scirocco 2.0 tdi R line 2016 model in the past and had to have my fillings redone very six months, very hard suspension. but this one is very comfortable. Any Questions please ask. Mark.

Hi buy a plastic trim remover kit for eBay, gently prise the unit out and then change the bulb, I think the bulb is a 501 bayonet type but you can either read the writing on the bulb or visit your local spares shop and let them match it up. Steve.

Hi although I have never seen the vehicle common sense dictates the question do I throw more money at it, if the garage wants to pay the cost by all means, as Clifford suggested fit a reconditioned unit as this won't have the problems you have now, with regard to the car being clapped out it must have looked like a good proposition for you to buy otherwise you would have walked away, the brown emulsion in the oil is a classic example of fuel ingression, if you want to replace big end shells you would have to replace the piston assemblies as well ergo a recon unit would be better its known as a short engine which has had the crank journals reground and oversize shells fitted, new oil pump, pistons and rings, personally as Gareth suggested I would see if I could get an engineers report, get my money back, you may suffer a small financial loss but its better than losing the lot and if you source another vehicle either buy a couple off years later model or buy a diesel as its impossible to buy one with that type of problem as they rely on compression detonation and if the rings are gone will run like a bag of spanners. Steve.

Hello Ian, This may have a lot to do with battery voltage and/or alternator issue. 13.7/13.8 volts out of the alternator seems a little low in my book - I would be expecting 14+ volts. Have you tried charging the battery overnight, and have you had the battery efficiency checked? How old is it? These would be my starting points in an investigation, before moving on to other possibilities. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Ian - hopefully with a few less [Removeds]! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stanley, Can you confirm that your car has covered one thousand one hundred miles only? Just a little confused with your now reference to oil change due at 11k miles. Can you confirm exactly how many months old the car now is? Kind regards, Gareth.

nice good luck sale kev

Hi How’s the advert now lol.

To summarise: the engine knocks under certain conditions, it might be running hot (though I fail to understand how that can be if the guage reads normal,) and it creates emulsion in the oil. (I suspect the increasing level in the sump is caused mainly by water ingress, tainted by a little petrol.) If the knocking is from a big end or a main bearing which has worn the others will be close behind, as will the bores and rings, and a recon engine would be the cheapest solution. I fear you may have bought a clapped out wreck, but before condeming it prematurely I would get the engine assessed professionally. There is a limit to what can be diagnosed from incomplete written descriptions, and you should not rely entirely on advice here before deciding to commit to major expense.

Hi, sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings but I think one of the big end bearings is on the way out, as you mentioned the knocking decreased when you engaged the clutch, this is because engaging the clutch takes the strain off the crank so its movement is less encumbered by the clutch assemblies weight which means less flexing of the crank itself. My guess is you are probably right about the Wynns, the main problem with a lot of the petrol engines built between 2008-2011 was as a result of upcoming emission regs in Europe Audi had to find a way PDQ of reducing the emissions so their answer was to use slight overbore to reduce friction and thinner piston rings to prevent bore drag, the problem is the rings get stuck in the grooves on the piston and are not tight against the cylinder, Cliffords suggestion of a compression test is a good start but I think it might have gone beyond that, personally I would go back at the garage 5 weeks is well within the boundary of rejection under the sale of goods act, it may well have come with a known service history but that won't cure a built in problem. Steve.