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Hi Gareth Sorry being a bit absent minded there! The gearbox oil and filter along with front and rear final drive was changed. I understood it was mileage based (every 20k) rather time based servicing item. Thanks Matt

Hi the belt is self tensioned but the major consideration is its age as they are bonded rubber and nylon reinforcement between the outer part and the inner toothed surface, once the reinforcement is exposed it will fail in short order, the reason they don't mention it is they rather hope to see it again on a trailer needing a good few grands worth of valve gear and cams and thats only if a valve hasn't collided with a piston and holed it in which case the sky is the limit, a short block is about five and half grand and then theres the cylinder heads valves, these people don't care as long as it makes money and I guarantee your car will never run properly again, I have witnessed this with my nieces A4 which went in under warranty because it was burning a litre of oil a week, it came back running like biscuit tin full of nails and leaking oil/water, go to a VAG specialist or any good independent garage and get it done believe me when I tell you the alternatives are horrific. Steve.

Where do you live? Dealers sell the recirculation flap motors for £219 Inc VAT in Cambridge area. I've not had the cambelt done on mine yet. It's coming up to the 5 year point in September, so I'll have it have it changed then. My old A4 B8 diesel was around £450 with water pump.

Great result Beany. Many thanks for letting us know.

Clutch possibly yes. Cambelt, tensioner and water pump - probably a lot cheaper. Best to get estimates from your trusted local garage before committing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shaun, Apologies, but I’m missing the understanding of the ‘U.K. Premium’ bit. Appreciating that you have just spent out a large sum of money on something else on the car, but I think the recommendations for cambelt changes as been clearly explained in all the earlier posts - and I think you are accepting that logic. If you bought the car when it was 4 year old, then it wouldn’t have needed a cambelt up to that time, but it would have been ‘your responsibility’ to change it a year after you bought it. Now, after 2 years over that limit, you are still not getting it attended to, and of course, that is your choice - but moreover, it is at your ( in caps) risk. It might be worth getting an estimate for a replacement engine, so you can calculate the value of the risk you are taking here Shaun. Armed with this you might get your appetite back! Money is money, and risking not spending is just that. It’s rather akin to saying you are going to take a risk and not insuring your house, because you have just insured your car. Might be worth thinking about not using the car until the necessary funds are available?? Apologies, Shaun, but I think there are many folks you can talk to who will know of someone who has wrecked a good engine. Any one of those affected would long for an opportunity to turn the clock back. Anyway, enough said…… Kind regards, Gareth.

Thank you, that’s really helpful 👍 we’re looking at cars from 2011 to 2014 at the moment, various mileages etc, the 2 examples I gave earlier are 2 I’ve contacted today I’ll certainly keep these points in mind, really helpful thank you

Hello Dave, Thanks for being in touch. What year are these cars? If they are indeed 2011 models as per your profile, then they should have had at least two cambelt changes within their service history, and be half way through the second - every 5 years. In effect, it’s difficult to consider it has full service history if the belt assembly ( and water pump) hasn’t been changed since 57k and it’s now on 130k. To me, this would not be a deal breaker so long as you get it done straight away, and I guess factor in the cost within the purchase price. Clutches and that sort of mileage would however be a worry, since the weak spot will be the in-bell housing release bearing assembly since if the clutch hasn’t been renewed in the recent past ( with quality parts) then this can be an anticipated costly . issue which could realistically crop up. Last point I would suggest you research, is the excessive oil consumption of engines of this era - Stevey Y on here is the man with the knowledge on these ‘low friction’ engines , but suffice it to say, it can have been serviced up to the hilt, but can still have an alcoholic thirst for engine oil. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Buying from a VAT registered seller so you have some comeback?

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 You're right to want full service history. If auto make sure the gearbox oil has been serviced. If turbo has been changed then thats a bonus.

A health check won't include a diagnostic check. If you're experiencing the issues now I'd get it in asap if it was mine. But I do going ott with servicing.

Just got my car sorted today took it to alternator specialist had alternator refurb done with new brushes new bearing and new pulley £80 sounding nice and quiet now thanks everyone who advised me really apreciated

The two things I'd be considering is a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. I'd also be looking to see when the gearbox oil was last changed as degrading oil can affect gear changes on the dsg/s-tronic gearbox.

That's great news. Hopefully once the new one is fitted it'll resolve the issue 🤞

Great you have this sorted. Did you buy the part, or the specialist?

I'd be speaking to Audi parts department as they'll have the schematics.

DPF's ok, I've cleaned that a few times.

Delete old codes and new scan is my first job after bleeding brakes, cant get into the car at the moment, the jacks are in the way of opening the doors. My new Sealey pressure bleeder arrived today, it's got to go back because it won't hold any pressure. I hope they don't say there has been brake fluid in it, how else would I find out it don't pressurize ?