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6.6 V8 403 cubic inches, Purchased it new, kept it for 24 years and when I sold it, it had 24k on the clock. TA - Copy (2).bmpTA - Copy (2).bmp

Aye that's true, it hardly breaks the bank and it's good housekeeping. Certainly doesn't do any harm changing it every 5k, i honestly thought perhaps that was too frequent. Maybe not. I take notions with driving. I work offshore on 3 week rotations so the car effectively spends 6 months of the year not being driven, other than a 10 minute run on idle once a week while I'm away. Her indoors, she's got her own wee runaround as the A6 is a bit too big. So when I'm on leave i could cover 1500 miles or 50 depending on what im up to. That's low miles indeed. Mine has covered 240,000 and counting. Still going strong. For now anyway! 🤣 Mostly motorway miles, previous owner had it 5 year and used it for commuting to Dunfermline from Perth. It does me fine, its a good ol' bus. Ha! Nothing wrong with a bit of recycling. 😉 Take it the van wasn't too fussed! They're big lumps those Trans-Ams. Nice cars.

I have a sneaky feeling you're not going to approve. I may have told a little white lie, I didn't notice the drain had been stripped when I did the oil change. It was quite a while after, when I looked under the car and noticed a small weep. OK, I dare say I may have been lucky and dodged a bullet there so I put my hands up. My bad. In either case the plug was still tight with no play and I still had to unscrew it with the rachet to get it out and check, so it's not nearly bad enough to be sliding or wiggling. But it is partially stripped. I'm confident it's not my handywork as I was so super paranoid about stripping it in the first place that I just tightened the plug up to the washer, then gave it a slight nip with the rachet. I'd been of the thinking of changing the oil frequently. Lots of theories on whether it be every 5k, 10k or more. I decided to go 5k. It's an old car i bought as a runaround for less than 2 grand and has a high mileage. I don't use it for work, just social excursions. So from that, next oil change is due in roughly 1500 miles. I'll admit I feel 5k is excessive, and it's £60 odd a pop to do a change, so I'll be increasing the interval for the next. Anyway, short term fix was the ptfe tape and copper washer on the plug. It's tight on with no play but not over tightened. I can't move it by hand and the weep has stopped. I check it very regularly. (As well as keeping a close eye on the rear view mirror for the trail should it decide to go). Long term is I'm re-threading it a size up from the current plug. I've already got the kit. And the method is demonstrated in one of the vids RoyC posted. As I see it, if I make a complete hash of it it's a new sump regardless and my go-to garage is a few minutes away. If I don't I potentially save some cash. If it starts weeping again it'll be quiksteel and I'll be doing subsequent changes through the dipstick.

I have changed the battery even tried different types but no good unfortunately

Hello Andrew, Thanks for joining and posting you plea. When you say the oil warning light came on, and you talking oil level warning light, or oil pressure warning light? If it was indeed the oil level light, and you put 1 ltr in from half full, then I wouldn’t expect it to now be overfilled. Does it have a dip stick?? - possibly not if it has an electronic level display. Anyway - as Mike says if it has a dip stick, but I would check first thing in the morning before starting the engine - car on level ground. If no stick - same procedure but check the electronic displayed level before starting after its been standing overnight. Apologies for being direct, but are you from the school of total reliance and faith by acting at a point where a warning light appears, rather than regularly checking the level of a morning? Kind regards, Gareth.

Leave the engine off for 10 minutes, then check the dipstick (by taking it out, wiping it and then dipping it back in and pulling it out to check) - this will tell you what your oil level is.

Just make a note of the new plug incase you ever want a new one.

Hello everyone, I had the same problem as you guys. No data transfer at all. No traffic updates, no Google search, 3G logo was there but no internet connection what so ever. Not even able to delete the key user to complete the factory reset. All pointing to an issue with eSIM in the car. Dealer was clueless and less than helpful. Took me 3 days to convince them this is a real issue (you don't really want to know the dirty details). Anyways, after feeding the dealer with lots of forum discussions and proving that 100s of owners having the same issue, they finally contacted Germany tech and within half a day they instructed the dealer to change two components J949 and J533 and everything was back to normal. Not sure what these parts are but seems like related to the eSIM. Attached you can see the repair report. Hope this helps the ones experiencing the same problem as mine. Cheers, Jake (Majid)Hello everyone, I had the same problem as you guys. No data transfer at all. No traffic updates, no Google search, 3G logo was there but no internet connection what so ever. Not even able to delete the key user to complete the factory reset. All pointing to an issue with eSIM in the car. Dealer was clueless and less than helpful. Took me 3 days to convince them this is a real issue (you don't really want to know the dirty details). Anyways, after feeding the dealer with lots of forum discussions and proving that 100s of owners having the same issue, they finally contacted Germany tech and within half a day they instructed the dealer to change two components J949 and J533 and everything was back to normal. Not sure what these parts are but seems like related to the eSIM. Attached you can see the repair report. Hope this helps the ones experiencing the same problem as mine. Cheers, Jake (Majid) Cause C/S HE'S ABLE TO SEE VEHICLE'S STATUS FROM THE PHONE APP SINCE YESTERDAY'S REPAIR, BUT STILL CAN'T LOGIN TO THE MMI FROM THE VEHICLE, THERE'S NO TRAFFIC INFO/GOOGLE SEARCH. PORTAL SHOWS INFOTAINMENT SERVICES NOT CONNECTED, SAFETY & SERVICE IS GOOD IN GREEN. THE 10 CHARACTER AUDI CONNECT CODE IS KEREBHXLBD. CLIENT ASKED TO ADD 3 USERS. 10 DIGIT CAR/RADIO CODE xxxxxxxxxx. Correction CONFIRMED CUSTOMER COMPLAINT. CANNOT LOGIN TO AUDI CONNECT. TRIED MULTIPLE TIMES WITH CUSTOMER CREDENTIALS. CONTACTED TAC LINE. TAC LINE RECCOMENDS TO REMOVE J949 AND J533. REMOVE BATTERY FROM J939 AND LET SIT FOR 4 HOURS. AFTERWARDS CHECK OPERATION. CONTINUNING DIAGNOSIS. AFTER 4 HOURS RE INSTALLED J533 AND J949 MODULES. OPERATION IS BACK ONLINE AND LTE IS UP AND RUNNING. MAPS FUNCTION CORRECTLY. REMOVED ALL KEY USERS AND SUBMITTED ALL INFORMATION VIA AUDI CONNECT ONLINE. VERIFIED INFORMATION AND SAVED. HAVE CUSTOMER LOGIN VIA KEY CODE AND EMAIL. ONLY ONE KEY USER SHOULD BE USED AND THE REST BE INPUTTED AS GUESTS.

Sorry for the late reply. Cheers for the help chaps. I will admit I've gone down the temp repair road and for now it's holding. I've done several hundred miles so far with barely a weap. So with that in mind, and as it'll soon be due, I'm going for a more permanent repair with the next oil change. That's going to be retapping to the next size up. I've got the kit for it. Watch this space...

I'd recommend a second opinion. Also if you need a new turbo you're better off getting a genuine one instead of a cheap aftermarket one. As they break easily.