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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/21/2022 in all areas
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Hello Werner, Whatever reference the book, makes to warming the engine - and are we talking warming the oil here rather than getting the coolant up to temperature (totally different degrees of ‘warm’)? Just to explain:- A ‘warm’ engine can be considered to be when the coolant reaches its N position on the gauge/display and that is when the coolant temperature is up to approx. 90 c At this point, the engine oil will certainly not have reached its operating temperature, and to reach that temperature, it could take a run of. at least 5 miles. In my book (and the pages are well thumbed and creased!) I only carry out an accurate oil level reading when the car has been standing overnight on level ground and I am certain that all the oil has indeed returned to the sump. I wonder if you would be kind enough to follow that procedure so your oil level assessments are truly comparative - and then report back. Kind regards, Gareth.2 points
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Your original post asks "is this normal or should I be concerned" You get some solid advice, then come back quoting from the manual stating "usage is less than the manual says" Are you now happy or still consider there's an issue?2 points
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Driving along with no problems then when I pulled up outside a friends house and dropped something off the glow plug light started flashing. Thought I’d best not turn the car off as it might not start so drive it the mile or so home and turned it off. Left it a min then restarted it with no problems, car ran fine with no warning lights or flashing glow plug light. Then next day jumped in the car and went to set off but the car cut out. Started straight back up and idled fine, rev’d no problem. Set off and after about 500 yards the car cut out again, started back up and after about 200 yards cut out again. Started back up and turned around to get back home and cut out again but then would start back up with a misfire and cut out after a few seconds. Couldn’t get the car home so rang a mate who turned up with a snap on code reader which showed injector circuit A & B malfunction as well as injector 2 malfunction and injector 4 electrical fault. Tried unplugging the injectors one by one to try and get the car to run if it was a faulty injector that was preventing the car from running but it would only run for a few seconds then cut out. Recovered the car back home but by this point the car wouldn’t start at all. After various checks the fuel pressure seemed low at the fuel rail ( weak and bubbly ) and the car not showing any codes due to it not starting so replaced the fuel regulator on the drivers side ( the car has 1 on each side but a faulty regulator on the passenger side will still let the car run all be it badly) still wouldn’t even attempt to start. The car would just turn over and over. Removed the injectors and set them for testing which showed various faulty. Replaced all 6 injectors with new but the car still wouldn’t attempt to start. Removed the ECU and sent away for testing with a description of the fault the car was doing. The ECU testing showed it to be faulty but beyond repair. Bought a used replacement with the same numbers on a through a friend of a friend cloned the ecu to match mine. Plugged back into the car and it fired straight up no problems with no codes stored or warning lights. After speaking with an auto electrician he believes that either a faulty injector spiked the ecu or an ecu fault killed the injectors. Found loads of posts on forums with cars with the same fault but no answer to what the problem was. Hope this helps if anybody has or gets similar.1 point
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I sent my ecu to a company called ecutesting.com. They had good reviews and was about £220 to repair including postage. They confirmed it was faulty and do an exchange included but unfortunately they didn’t have one like mine in stock so refunded my money and sent it back. So it ended up being a free diagnosis. I then got a secondhand one and got it cloned. The ecu is a bit of a pain to take off as you have to grind the cradle it’s in as the bolts have no heads to unbolt off.1 point
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I agree Gareth, not keen on getting the tracking done as I not aware of anyone around my area who isn’t a multinational. Not saying they aren’t any good, more that their heart isn’t in it! Changing tyres over is a good call, as I believe it is something marginally different somewhere as it only seem to happen when heavily loaded and certain surfaces. Took four people ( including me😀)to Eastbourne on Friday, M25, A22 and the car was scary on the M25 concrete section. Came back via Brighton and A23 and it was the usual comfortable drive. Seems the road surface plays a big part in this, but the car should be able to handle it, never a problem on other cars I have driven on the same surface. Looks like there is nothing definitive and probably just something on my car, so a bit of experimentation required 😕. Thanks for the help and if/when I find something I will update the thread.1 point
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Hi. Just thought I'd drop in here to say "Hi" as a new joiner to the Audi Owners Club. Just picked up my forst Audi, a 2016 TT Roadster TFSI with low milage and a full dealers service history in fantastic condition. Just sold the Fiat Abarth 595 Comp and was looking for a car with two things that I promised myself. 1) It had to be an automatic, my last auto was the two Range Rovers that I had. 2) I wanted a convertible, the last one I had was a Triumph Stag (Loved that car.) which I sold for some silly reason after spending a lot of time and money on it, but I did recoup those funds because it looked so good and the bvuyes literaly snatched my hand of. Loving this car so far, never owned one before, but it drives lovely and is so comfortable, and yet when you put your foot down it still surprises me at how quick they are. Looking forward to forum gossip and tips and tricks.1 point
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Many thanks Ewan, If (in caps) this car has be resprayed a different colour then there will be glaring evidence at -some - point. Kind regards, Gareth.1 point
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Why don't they show a cold and hot oil level like they do with coolant levels ?1 point
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Hi Gareth, That's what I'm planning to do, it always gets the mind going thinking the car could well be wrong. I'll get the code this morning and also see if Audi themselves can also shed any light on it. Many thanks1 point
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Hello Ewan, DVLA use ‘broad brush’ colour band grouping (pardon the pun) and the chosen group may not truly represent the colour you think it is. For peace of mind, note the colour code and wander into a local car paint supplier and check the colour with them. Also well worth trying an internet search for the code as an easier alternative. Kind regards, Gareth.1 point
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There’s a post about it from about may last year if you look back through the posts1 point
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Same thing happened to my 2007 q7. Glow plug light started flashing but drove fine all the way home. Started it the day after and all was fine for around 500 yards then started flashing again then cut out. Would start straight up but drive 500 yard and cut out again. Then 200 yards then cut out until eventually it wouldn’t start it just turned over and over and not even try to start. No EML but had a code on vcds for an injector short to ground or something similar. Cleared the code but still wouldn’t start. Changed all 6 injectors ,high pressure fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator but still would just turn over and over. Turned out to be the ecu that had been spiked by a faulty injector. Bought a 2nd hand unit from eBay and got a mate of a mate to clone it to be the same as mine. Started first time after that.1 point
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What do you mean "set to mid level rather than comfort"? You should inflate according to the recommended pressure for your loading condition as stated on the door plate. And yes, if the tracking is out your car can pull to a side. Get it checked.1 point
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Hello Werner, If this were mine, I would be following Steve’s advice, and at least reporting it - nothing to lose, although I suspect a reaction of ‘ not abnormal’. Is the oil level only checkable via. the on screen display, or have you also got a dipstick? At least you should now be in a position to monitor the oil usage back to your ( in caps) determined level, which will eliminate the possibility that it may not have been fully up to the mark when new. Unlikely, but…. Hopefully a daft question, but you are checking the oil level before start up, following leaving the car standing on level ground overnight -? Kind regards, Gareth.1 point
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My advice would be if you're worried get it booked in at Audi. Even if they don't find anything wrong at least you've logged the issue. Then if there's an issue again within warranty regarding oil usage then they're more likely to act.1 point