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No probs. Still just as important it's been serviced. Degrading oil can affect gear changes. To the point the s tronic can refuse to go into reverse for example.

Sounds like you've got a good plan. Bare in mind the magnetic shocks are expensive to replace and have to be coded to the car. Also make sure the car has had all required services. Manual gearbox is allegedly sealed for life which is nonsense as the seals fail. Also make sure quattro system works and has been serviced. Check tyres have even wear as uneven emerald can damage the quattro system. they're lovely cars my mate has the hard top.

Brill. In that case the 2.0tdi is your best bet. If you're looking at an auto make sure the gearbox oil has been changed and if quattro make sure all tyres have even tread on the same axles. As uneven tyre wear can damage the quattro system. With the age of car you're looking at electrical issues are the biggest thing. Make sure AC works as a new compressor can be very expensive to have done. Also make sure the car comes with 2 keys that work fully and the central locking works. Main rust spots are the tops of the arches on the front wings as VAG thought it was clever to put foam in the inside of the top arches on all vw/audi models like the golf mk4, A3, A4 b5, A6 c5 etc. I'd also have look at buyers guides on YouTube.

Don't bring your Audi down. If well maintained you'd be surprised how far they can go. My A6 is 20 years old with 341k on the original engine and gearbox which have never been rebuilt. My family have owned it from new. I'm going to Germany next month in it, to take it back to where it was built 20 years ago.

Hi all, My apologies been working away at HPC bridgwater, managed to get some pic's taken today of my a8 d2, in regards to price as this has been more than once mentioned, im at 1650 which i think is extremely reasonable. Any questions please ask or call 07581198384 my mobile. Kind regards David.

Have a look at OBD eleven. https://obdeleven.com/ You will need a dongle and a few credits (100 I think) but it can disable the start/stop permanently. You cannot permanently disable it any other way.

Hi no need to worry about the DPF as that will carry on regenerating as normal, your parts removed are exactly the same as mine were and if you look at my post with the pictures of the cooler after I cut it in half you will see the crystallised Adblue has invaded the coolant area around the gas tubes, I also had a small amount of crystals in the expansion tank, this is not ideal and means the gas tubes running through the cooler have been compromised and are letting the Adblue steam and crystals into the water jacket but being as the coolant is heavier this tends to push the other way causing the syrup like substance in your pictures, the main problem with this cooler is the cooling length is to short and unlike most other designs used on older engine set ups which have a lot more narrow O.D. set ups but longer cooling runs our shorter larger coolers will always promote corrosion of the cooling tubes because of the heat involved being mounted so close to the DPF core allied to the fact Adblue rots all base metals, most other manufacturers mount the coolers on the outer fringes of the engine block where the ambient temperature in the engine bay helps cooling. Steve.

What are you on about?